Cruising the Nile in Egypt

Egypt … a land of mystique and enigma … with one foot firmly anchored in the past and the other seeking a secure footing in the future. Egypt is home to a treasure trove of monumental structures. The construction techniques for some are known, but to this day, many others remain shrouded in mystery.

Did the Pharaohs and their architects imagine even in their wildest dreams that the tombs and colossal architecture they built – with the back-breaking labor of their faithful minions – would draw millions from around the world to stand in awe of their accomplishments thousands of years later?

Where did these people come from, and how did their civilization rise so rapidly? This is one of the many questions that makes Egypt utterly fascinating and calls you back time and time again.

The Pyramids on the Giza plateau are the only structures remaining of the seven wonders of the ancient world. They are so massive that they can distinctly be seen from space, and they, along with the mighty Sphinx, must surely be at the top of your must-see bucket list when visiting Egypt.

Of course, the country is more than mighty monuments and beautifully painted art still visible on burial tomb walls after thousands of years. The River Nile is the greatest mystery of them all.

The Nile flows out of Africa, north into the delta at the top of Egypt, until its nourishing waters come to rest in the Mediterranean Sea. So Lower Egypt is actually at the top of the country, while Upper Egypt connects to Africa and the lands south of the Tropic of Cancer.

There are many ways to travel the Nile, and each one offers a uniquely different experience. First, there is the small sail-driven single-operator felucca that plies the waterway, initially as transport for locals, but now as a major tourist attraction. As a special treat, the group I was traveling with arranged to have breakfast on a felucca.

The morning dawned bright and beautiful with a clear blue sky and gentle winds, which was perfect sailing weather. Our felucca was awaiting our arrival with a table set with linen and china and a 5-star breakfast of fresh squeezed fruit juices, hot coffee, pastries and breads still warm from the oven, platters of cheeses and meats, fruits, yogurts and cereals, as well as a waiter ready to serve us.

We pushed off from the dock, and the wind caught the sails as the helmsman deftly tacked to and fro, while we enjoyed our meal, the warmth of the sun, and the company of our companions.

For an extended visit on the Nile with stops along the way at the ancient temples of Abydos, Dandara, Luxor and Karnak, Esna, Edfu, Kom Ombo, Philae, and the High Dam at Aswan, there are dozens of luxury cruise ships to choose from. Or you could do what I did and enjoy the Nile from a dahabiya, which is a boutique sailboat much like a private yacht.

Dahabiyas are some 50 meters long under sail power. The downside is that when the wind isn’t blowing in the right direction, you must be pulled by a tugboat, which unfortunately is powered by diesel fuel.

Our dahabiya was a spacious, beautifully polished, wooden boat with comfortable deck couches and an open bar. Lounge chairs and an outdoor Jacuzzi with shaded zones for dining al fresco completed the upper deck area.

The dahabiya had 8 large, air conditioned sleeping suites with wide-window viewing of the passing scenes, a queen sized bed or two singles, flat screen TV, mini bar, safe, a travertine-tiled bath with full shower and roomy washstand, Egyptian cotton towels, and an amenity package that included fresh flowers.

Because the Nile doesn’t produce waves, there’s no fear of becoming seasick, and we were all able to comfortably eat the appetizing meals prepared for us. Breakfast and lunch were served buffet style, while dinner was a sit-down, waiter-served, full course meal with the chef happy to accommodate our food requests.

Every meal started with appetizers and salads that were fresh and delicious. This was indeed a treat since on prior trips to Egypt, it was a no-no to eat uncooked food, which could have produced food poisoning. Things have changed a lot in the last few years, and while I still use bottled water even for brushing my teeth, the easing of food restrictions means that using tap water can’t be far behind in terms of safety and taste.

Every night after dinner, we were entertained by local groups or titillated by belly dancers who were especially well-received and rewarded by the applause of our male companions.

One soft balmy evening, we had pre-dinner cocktails on the deck when out of nowhere, a huge wind came up, and sharp flying sand assaulted us. We were calmly ushered downstairs while the wind blew mercilessly. It was a Khamasseen or Chamsin, which loosely translates to “the fifties” because this sandstorm can arise anytime during a 50-day period.

That night, the howling wind lulled me to sleep as I imagined myself a character in an Agatha Christie novel, gliding down the Nile while trapped on a boat in a sandstorm. Very exciting!

When we awoke, we were invited to enjoy breakfast in the dining room while the crew removed the thick sand deposits that had been left by the storm. In a short while, we were back on deck where we were greeted by a blue sky, bright sun, and the sail fully extended to take advantage of the breeze.

Whether you choose to cruise the Nile in a felucca, a dahabiya, or a luxurious cruise ship, stopping along the way to visit each of the awesome temples this amazing culture has created is an experience of a lifetime and one not easily forgotten.

Our writer received complimentary accommodations while in Egypt, but as always, we’re devoted to providing you with honest assessments of our experiences.

While there is unrest in the Middle East as of this writing, most governments consider travel to Egypt to be generally safe.