Hotel Review: Jamaica Inn

Jamaica Inn, a hotel that sits on a six-acre beachfront garden, is an institution in Ocho Rios, Jamaica. The iconic Inn has been around since 1950, and the same family (the Morrows) has run it since 1958. Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller stayed there in the 50s, and Noel Coward was a frequent guest.

I was told that many staff members have worked at the Inn for years. This is always a good sign. Happy staff is likely to translate to happy guests.

Because of the age of Jamaica Inn, many of the bedrooms are a bit small by today’s standards, but some of the amenities you receive in exchange are truly special. My suite was right on the Inn’s 700-foot private beach, and while the bedroom and bathroom were both small, my living room was outside. One step out of this living room verandah, and I was on sand. It included a couch, cushioned chairs, desk, dinette set, and refrigerator. Some of the suites at the Inn are on the second floor with a balcony, but every room has an ocean view.

Of course, there are larger suites available, including the Winston Churchill suite (yes, he stayed there, as well as the King of Yugoslavia.) This suite, which is also called the White Suite, is enormous with a verandah on three sides, a private lawn and garden, and a private balcony overlooking the water.

The lawn at Jamaica Inn has a swimming pool, croquet court, and beach bar, and there are private cottages available for rental as well. The rooms contain no television, radio, or clock, and guests wear “casual elegant” dress for dinner.

My favorite thing about staying at Jamaica Inn was being served breakfast on my verandah. I just loved seeing someone walk down the beach with my breakfast tray to give it to me sand-side. Nothing says luxury like eating eggs and pineapple pancakes on your own private verandah while listening to the sound of the waves.

This verandah had a roof, so if it had rained, I would have stayed dry while remaining “outside.” The verandah also had a beach towel on a rack and a metal bowl in which to wash the sand off my feet before reentering the bedroom. The other side of my suite opened directly to the outside walkway on the property.

This beach, by the way, has golden sand and no sand fleas. The water here tends to be cool, and it has a sandy bottom with no rocks for 200 yards out. All of these elements cause some to call this the best beach in Jamaica. While the Inn can accommodate 90 guests, there are 120 chairs on the beach, so you never have to worry about finding a place to lounge.

Before dinner, I enjoyed a delicious Planter’s punch in open-air seating, while I listened to the trio of musicians mixed with the sound of the crickets and frogs that play their own music every night in Jamaica. For dinner, I had the option of a five-course dinner or a selection from the a la carte menu. I decided on an entrée of lemongrass kingfish with carrots, broccoli, and mashed potatoes. It was a simple meal but was expertly prepared.

Jamaica Inn’s spa is also very special. I had a phenomenal massage in an open-air tree house which allowed me an ocean view while also maintaining enough walls to give me privacy. The spa uses and sells all natural products made by local individuals. There is pure coconut oil, for example, that is hand cold-pressed by a woman that the manager of the spa knows personally.

An on-site staff of carpenters and painters maintain the buildings at all times, so nothing is left until it is in a state of disrepair.

If you want to visit Ocho Rios, you must either rent a car or hire a car (which can easily be arranged by the Jamaica Inn staff), as the town is just a bit too far away for a walk.

The Jamaica Inn experience is a bit like stepping back in time, while enjoying modern comforts. I wouldn’t be at all surprised if Noel Coward’s spirit still makes regular visits. Why wouldn’t he?