Ulysses – archetypal hero of The Odyssey, Homer’s epic morality tale of folly and adventure, wisdom and foolishness, loyalty and betrayal – purportedly journeyed along the Tyrrhenian Sea off the coast of Lazio, southeast of Rome.
In Homer’s day, the waters between Italy and Sicily were thought to be fraught with hidden horrors awaiting the adventurer who was willing to leave the safety of home for uncharted seas and lands.
According to Homer, Ulysses found monsters, giants, and bewitching creatures galore in these waters. While on our own “odyssey,” we found a region filled with lovely seaside hotels, beautiful sand beaches, stunning vistas, and ancient ruins that can be explored without hoards of sightseers blocking our access or cannibalistic giants hurling rocks at us.
Food from the sea, fresh as can be, and a warm friendly reception from its inhabitants, make this a go-to area when visiting either Rome or Naples.
Our journey southeast of Rome centered mainly between the ancient Appian Way – the longest Roman road dating to 312 BC – and the sea, where we visited both seaside and mountaintop towns such as Formia, Gaeta (pictured at the top), Minturno, Sperlonga, Sermoneta, Ninfa, Sabaudia, Terracina, and Norma.
Rome is the largest city in the region of Lazio and by far the most well known, but all of Lazio has a rich history that spans millennia. There are fascinating ancient and modern sights to explore once you leave Rome and head for the surrounding countryside.
By the way, for World War II buffs, the town of Latina, second largest town in Lazio, has a museum – the Piana delle Orme – of rare ordinance salvaged from the WWII fighting at Anzio, such as a Curtis P40 (Kittyhawk), an amphibious M4 Sherman DD (also known as a Donald Duck).
It also has a German Messerschmitt Me 262, the first military jet to fly successfully during WWII, plus other newer exhibits in its expanded aviation museum that includes jets and large transport planes.
Long a playground for both ancient and modern-day Italians, one of the many highlights of our journey was a visit to the Tiberius Villa along the Sperlonga coast. Tiberius was the second Emperor of Rome, and his villa was one of opulence and indulgence where his every whim was carried out.
There is little left except the foundation walls of the villa itself, but Tiberius was a great fan of Ulysses. In a large natural cave on the site by the sea, he built a theater for general bacchanalia and staged performances of Ulysses’ journey.
Huge statues of Cyclops, the one-eyed giant, Circe the temptress, and Scylla the six-headed she-dog, along with life-size depictions of Ulysses and his men that once were set in and around the cave, have been partially restored and can be seen in the villa’s adjoining museum.
The statues are Hellenistic (created by sculptors from Rhodes) and date from the 2nd century BC. In Hesiod’s Theogony, we find that Circe bore to Odysseus three sons: Agrius, Latinus (after whom the area was supposedly named), and Telegonus, who ruled over the Tyrsenoi, i.e. the Etruscans.
After our visit, we stopped for lunch at a seaside hotel. An infinite variety of seafood, fresh from the sea, and local specialties fresh from the garden, plus a lovely Falanghina wine greeted us in a spread fit for Tiberius himself.
Do yourself a favor the next time you visit Rome, and take a side trip to the many beautiful countryside towns of Lazio.
Barbara Angelakis is one of the founders of LuxuryWeb Magazine and its Senior Travel Writer. She travels the four corners of the world with a thirst for knowledge and a twinkle in her eye, seeking out the history of people and places and sharing her experiences. She specializes in culture and history along with luxury destinations, hotels/resorts/cruises/spas, and most recently Jewish Heritage, exploring the historical connection between Jews and their host countries. She has been recognized for outstanding coverage as “Journalist of the Year” by the Tanzania Tourist Board and is the recipient of the MTA Malta Tourism Press Award, the first American to receive this honor. For the past 25 years, Barbara has written extensively for LuxuryWeb Magazine, and her work can also be found at The Jerusalem Post, Jewish Link, Epoch Times, and Vision Times.
Manos Angelakis is one of the founders, the former Managing Editor for 25 years, the current Managing Editor Emeritus, and Senior Food & Wine Writer of LuxuryWeb Magazine. He is an accomplished travel writer, photographer, and food and wine critic based in Hackensack, New Jersey. As a travel writer, he has written extensively about numerous cities and countries. Manos has also been certified as a Tuscan Wine Master and has traveled to wine-producing areas in order to evaluate firsthand the product of top-rated vineyards. In the past year, he has visited and written multiple articles about Morocco, Turkey, Quebec City, Switzerland, Antarctica, and most recently the South of France. Articles in other publications include Vision Times and Epoch Times.
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