Recipe: Artichokes a la Polita

Olive oil has been produced and consumed in the Eastern Mediterranean since time immemorial. In the Cairo museum, a collection of papyri dating more than 5,000 years ago from Pharaonic Egypt talks about the olive oil and preserved olives trade between Minoan Crete and the land of the Pharaohs.

Much of the best modern extra virgin oil produced in the region comes from Greece, Turkey, and Lebanon.

In my larder, I always keep fresh extra virgin olive oil produced within the last year to be used in salads. I keep olive oil produced within the past 2-1/2 years to be used for general cooking and frying.

Among those bottles, there’s a Greek Minerva (a light, slightly bitter extra virgin oil that I use to dress salads); the Turkish first cold-pressed, extra virgin Rosolini; and from Lebanon’s Quadisha valley and the Ehden Grove, Oleavanti, a couple of bottles of oil that are rich, pungent, and outstanding as finishing oils for salads or one of the Middle Eastern dips like hummus and oil-stewed vegetables. 

The most common use of fresh extra virgin olive oil in Greek cookery is for salad dressing. It’s called “ladolemono” and is a simple mixture of freshly squeezed lemon juice and olive oil in a 1:3 ratio, i.e. 1 part of lemon juice to 3 parts of oil, whisked until emulsified. I usually add some salt and pepper, and depending on what type of salad I’m dressing, dry oregano or dry mustard.

Through the years, many recipes have been developed that use abundant olive oil and local vegetables. They’re very popular in Greece and Turkey, and most are based on Byzantine cooking preferences. These dishes are eaten either cold or at room temperature, and they can stay without refrigeration for as long as a week, as the olive oil is a good preservative.

Artichokes a la Polita

A la polita means “in the cooking style of the Polis, i.e. Constantinople (Istanbul)” and is a traditional, vegan, lenten dish that is favored in both Greece and Turkey.

Ingredients (4 to 6 servings):

• 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 3 small red onions, quartered
• 4-6 fresh artichokes, medium size
• 1-2 lemons, sliced in half for rubbing the artichokes
• 2 garlic cloves, grated
• 8 scallions, thinly sliced
• 2 carrots, sliced
• 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
• 6-8 small potatoes, peeled
• 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh dill
• 1 cup frozen green peas, thawed
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice (or less)
• 1 teaspoon cornstarch (optional)

Method:

Cook the quartered onions in the olive oil in a pot over low heat until soft and golden, or about 8 minutes.

While the onion is sautéing, cut the stems of the artichokes, leaving about 1/3-inch attached, peel the removed stem pieces, and add to the rest of the vegetables. Keep a large bowl halfway filled with ice water and 1-2 lemons cut in half. Remove the outer leaves of the artichokes and the hairy choke. Rub them with the lemon halves, and place them in the bowl of water. This will keep them from turning black.

Add the grated garlic to the cooking pot, and warm through. Add scallions, and cook over low heat until soft for about 5 minutes. Add the carrots, the peeled stems, and the all-purpose flour. Mix and cook for 1-2 minutes over high heat.

Add the artichokes, potatoes, and dill, and season with salt and pepper. Pour enough water in the cooking pot to almost cover the artichokes and vegetables. Bring to a boil, and then cover the pot with the lid. Reduce to medium-low heat, and cook about 45 minutes or until the vegetables are fully cooked and tender and most of the water has evaporated.

Add the green peas, and stir to combine.

Combine the lemon juice with the cornstarch in a small bowl, and mix to dissolve. Begin with a small quantity of lemon juice (1/4 cup) because sometimes lemons can be very strong. Add the mixture to the pot, and add more lemon, salt, and pepper to taste.