Recipe: Risi e bisi

Risi e bisi is a traditional Italian dish from the Veneto, initially cooked as a special festive dish in Venice, Vicenza, and Verona. It was served to the Venetian Doges and the ruling families of Venice during the festival of San Marco every 25th of April.

It’s a little easier and less time-consuming to create than risotto. It’s also convenient to cook year-round because you can use high quality frozen peas if fresh ones aren’t in season.

Local, short-grain rice is used in the recipe. I prefer Riso Buono Carnaroli rice from Azienda Agricola Luigi e Carlo Guidobono. Rice started being cultivated in the area around Venice and in Piemonte in the 15th century after Venetian merchants began to import rice from East Asia. 

There are two distinct versions of the dish – the traditional classic Venetian original that has short-grain rice and fresh peas with flat-leaf parsley as an aromatic, and the festive version for the San Marco holiday that adds cubed pancetta (or chopped bacon strips if pancetta is not available) with dill as an aromatic.

The dish was traditionally served with a dusting of grated Grana Padana or Parmigiano Reggiano.

The recipe below is from my friend Katie (Catarina) Cornaro, a descendant of a Venetian noble family that, in the distant past, included three Doges, many Cardinals, and the Queen of Rhodes when that Greek island was dominated by the naval forces of La Serenissima.  

Ingredients (serves 4):

1½ quarts chicken stock or vegetable stock if you prefer a vegetarian version
1½ pounds fresh peas or high quality frozen peas
2 ounces salted butter
1 medium white onion, finely chopped
1½ teaspoon fennel seeds
12½ ounces short-grain rice (Carnaroli or Vialone Nano preferred)
2 ounces grated cheese (parmesan or your choice)
2 ounces cubed pancetta (omit if vegetarian or if you wish the non-festive version)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or 4 full sprigs of dill, shredded
Salt and pepper to taste

Note: I found that a pinch of smoky paprika adds umami to the classic recipe, but that aromatic is not traditional. Therefore, I have not included it in the traditional ingredients list.

Method:

Heat the stock in a large saucepan. Rinse the peas under running water, and add to the pot. Simmer the peas for 4 minutes until just tender. If using frozen peas, add 2 more minutes.

Remove the peas and reserve.

Melt the butter in a cooking pot, and add the onion. Cook on low heat until the onion becomes translucent but is not browned.

Add the pancetta and fennel seeds. Cook for an additional 3 to 4 minutes.

Add the rice, stirring to make sure it’s coated with butter and the fat from the pancetta.

Slowly add the stock, one ladle-ful at a time, and bring to a boil.

Turn the temperature down to a simmer, and cook for about 16 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add the reserved peas, and continue stirring for another 4 minutes until the rice is al dente. If you like the rice softer, add another 2 to 3 minutes of cooking time to your taste.

Season and sprinkle the cheese on top. Garnish with the chopped parsley or the dill sprigs just before serving. Enjoy!