Recipe: Saffron Risotto alla Milanese

I love a good rice dish, and I frequently cook risottos, paellas, pilafs, and other rice-based recipes.

Risotto alla Milanese is a classic dish from Lombardy in northern Italy. Making risotto the right way may seem like an intimidating undertaking, but with the right ingredients and technique, it’s a dish that’s easy to master and well worth the effort.

In Milan, as well as most areas of Italy, food shops stock more than one variety of short grain rice for risotto. Arborio is the most prevalent. However, Carnaroli and Vialone Nano are two other short grain varieties that are frequently featured on an Italian table.

So I decided to purchase packages of all three for a taste test in my kitchen. Long grain rice, like an Indian Basmati or American Texmati, aren’t considered the right grain for a proper risotto.

I decided to cook up three batches – one from each rice type, keeping all the other variables the same, just to see if and what the taste difference would be. These are luxurious dishes by any standard and any taste change should be very noticeable!

The experiment resulted in mostly subtle differences – not so much in taste but in the texture of the dishes. I was the least pleased with how the arborio rice turned out. It developed a mushy texture toward the end of cooking with the grains becoming less distinct.

The Carnaroli and Vialone Nano retained their form within the creamy sauce. The main taste generator, of course, is the saffron, the Milanese risotto’s star ingredient, and that taste did not change within any of the three dishes.

Assuming you’re willing to invest in a small container of saffron stems, risotto alla Milanese is one of the simplest risottos to make. When done correctly, the finished dish will have that captivating saffron aroma, and each grain of rice will be covered with a very creamy, orange/yellow paste.

It’s important to use warm stock to cook the rice and add it very slowly. Take care not to overcook. The rice shouldn’t take more than 22 minutes of cooking. Once it becomes al dente, remove the risotto from the heat and stir in the remaining ingredients.

Ingredients:

5 1/2 cups chicken stock (homemade is preferable, but Swanson Broth would be also acceptable)
Good-sized pinch of saffron threads
2/3 cup dry white wine (Turbiana wine from Lugana would be a good match)  
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 1/2 cups short grain rice (about 10 ounces)
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

Method:

In a saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a simmer and keep warm.

Crumble the saffron into the wine and stir until the liquid becomes saffron colored.

In a cast iron pot, heat the olive oil. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper, and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until softened, about 4 to 5 minutes.

Add the rice and cook for 1 minute, stirring to thoroughly coat the rice.

Add the saffron and wine mixture to the rice.

Cook continuously, stirring over moderate heat until the wine is almost fully absorbed by the rice.

Add 1 cup of the warm stock and cook, stirring constantly until all stock is nearly absorbed.

Continue adding the stock 1 cup at a time, stirring constantly until the stock is nearly absorbed between additions.

The risotto is done when the rice is still slightly al dente and suspended in a thick, creamy sauce, about 20 to 22 minutes total. Check the seasoning for salt and pepper. Stir in the cheese, butter, and parsley. Serve immediately, and enjoy!