São Simão, Brazil: Rising Above The Depths

As my small fishing skiff skimmed over the vast expanse of Lake Azul in the tiny city of São Simão on the Goiás and Minas Gerais border in Brazil, I was unaware that beneath these impressive waters lie the ruins of an old settlement once inhabited by diamond miners and local fishermen.

The original village of São Simão was submerged and lost forever in 1975 after construction of a government hydroelectric power plant built to harness the power of the Paranaíba River and the São Simão canal.

Sensing my interest in this event, our fishing guide, Marcondes, offered his knowledge of the destruction, as well as the ultimate resurrection of this new village centered on the banks of Lake Azul. It’s now becoming one of the most sought-after tourism destinations in all of Brazil, though not on the same level with Rio or São Paulo yet.

Despite São Simão’s early origins in 1930, it remained thinly populated until the 1970s. At that time, the desperate need for more electric power and infrastructure for the area focused keen interest on this rural district. The result, much to the dismay of the few locals, was the construction of the plant and the creation of a monumental dam that established several islands and beaches in its aftermath. The old town of São Simão, also called Canal, no longer existed, sacrificed in the name of progress.

The plant and dam forced people to leave, and no early fragments at the site were preserved, effectively destroying their cultural roots and much of their identity. The mines were simply submerged, and the miners and fishermen’s homes suffered the same fate.

The few who stayed built small structures along the lake and hillsides, but more and more, outsiders settled there, lured by the offer of good jobs at the power plant. Not only did the landscape change, but also the inhabitants. Few realized at the time that eventually, the city would prosper, and in the span of just 50 years, São Simão would find new life and energy from the influx of tourism.

Today, São Simão is a city of new hotels, restaurants, shops, and attractions, tempting visitors to come for the natural beauty. But they especially come for the fishing, which centers on the catching of tucanare, a species of bass that permeates the fresh waters of Brazil and brings fishermen from around the world to experience the thrill of landing one of these tenacious fighters.

This was my first time on Lake Azul, and this manmade body of water held two types of tucanare – the dourado or gold-colored bass and the azul or blue-colored variant. Both fish are beautiful and both desirable for hooking and eating.

But other activities for adventurers ensued, including hiking and birdwatching in the Serra de São Simão Mountain, cycling, off-roading, and taking in the local fauna and flora from the forested trails. Visitors also trek to the Itaguaçu waterfalls on Tombo Island to chill, swim, and enjoy the serene surroundings.

The city also plays host to some festivals and a carnival, and there are a few bars and restaurants with minimal nightlife is in the center of town. There is the Usina Marmelos Zero Museum, which highlights local history and culture.

Accommodations in the city are still somewhat sparse, but there are several lakeside resorts to choose from, including the Hotel Magica Visao, where I booked a long weekend and also found fishing guide Marcondes Carvalho Lara (+553499664-4812 on WhatsApp) to take me to the lake’s hot spots. I wasn’t disappointed in either situation.

The hotel features 38 rooms and some individual chalets that house between one to six guests. Several include amenities such as a flat-screen TV, a balcony, a spa bath, and a mini bar. There is a spacious outdoor area that contains a children’s play zone and an Olympic-sized pool.

The restaurant is spacious and beautifully decorated, offering specialized Brazilian fare, as well as some European dishes. Eating at some of the restaurants in town is definitely recommended. They include Bella Italia Panificadora, Restaurante Campeao, and Restaurante Hippopotamus.

Since the restaurant at the hotel opens at 6 a.m., it’s ideal for fishermen who like to get out on the water as the sun is just coming up. It’s an opportunity get a good breakfast and hot coffee before venturing out.

We fished twice a day – early in the morning and then later in the afternoon, quitting as dusk began. Marcondes knew all the right places to go, and we boated the daily limit for tucanare for the two days we fished. In between casting and conversation, we marveled at the grandeur of the lake and the verdant hillsides surrounding it.

Marcondes is happy about the town’s progress and said he plans to build a lodge strictly catering to fishermen. He hopes to finish it within two years.

The disappointment with the past is definitely fading, and it’s obvious that the construction of the dam ultimately turned this old village of diamond mines into a veritable gold mine.