Land of My Fathers: Snowdonia National Park in North Wales

After flying into Manchester and spending a few days in Shrewsbury near the English/Welsh border, my driver collected me to begin my journey to the land of my father’s forebears in North Wales. My driver could speak fluent Welsh and knew the region intimately.

Soon, the gently rolling green pastures gave way to purple heather-laden mountains rising in the distance. Small clusters of woolly sheep, with the odd black one, roamed freely on the steep mountainsides, seeking as yet undiscovered terrain.

As the long valley road unfolded, an unexpected brilliant shaft of sunlight burst through the low-lying clouds that hugged the surrounding mountains. The striking ray of light encountered a nearby lake, which responded with a rainbow of bright reflecting colors that delighted my senses.

After our scenic trip through the picturesque countryside, we entered Betws-y-coed, an enchanting small village and gateway to Snowdonia National Park. The cool freshness of the air and the charming stone houses exuded timeless charm. Surrounded by lush greenery and the soothing sounds of the River Conwy, this village felt like a quiet diversion before my real challenge began.

I quickly became immersed in the breathtaking broad valleys and mountain vistas, the beautiful patchwork of heather, and the peace and solitude of unspoiled nature encountered in the heart of Snowdonia National Park.

Within this rugged embrace of the Welsh countryside, this haven for nature enthusiasts soon lifted my spirits with challenging trails and unforgettable experiences.

My Welsh-speaking guide showed me one way to conquer the heights of Snowdon, Wales’s highest peak, by a less-traveled path that captures the solitary grandeur of the mountain range. As the climb to Snowdon awaited me, I took his advice and chose Watkins Pass, known for its rugged beauty and fewer trekkers. The route meandered through ancient forests, babbling streams, and heather-covered hills, creating a symphony of colors and scents that heightened my well-being.

As our small party gained altitude, the scenery changed, and I could see the valley below. Reaching the summit, I felt an accomplishment beyond physical effort. The panoramic views from the top of Snowdon are impressive, with views of the rolling landscape of North Wales, the shimmering Irish Sea in the distance, and the majestic peaks of the surrounding mountains.

After reaching this challenging peak, my guide recommended a well-deserved and typical Welsh meal in a pub in the charming village of Beddgelert. The pub had a warm and welcoming atmosphere, and I enjoyed hardy food made with local produce. Traditional dishes such as Welsh lamb and leeks provided the perfect solace for my tired muscles and fueled me for the next journey. 

At night, I stayed in the charming village of Portmeirion, a place that felt like a whimsical escape from reality. This unique village, located on the banks of the Dwyryd Estuary, began as the brainchild of Sir Bertram Clough Williams-Ellis, CBE, MC, who envisioned a Mediterranean-style resort set against the backdrop of the Welsh countryside. The result is a pastel-hued utopia where Italian architecture and lush gardens blend to create an otherworldly atmosphere. 

My evenings at the Hotel Portmeirion became my refuge in North Wales. The hotel’s design reflects the unique style of the village, with panoramic views of the estuary from the elegant rooms. The attention to detail is evident from the carefully selected furnishings to the attentive staff, making me feel like an honored guest of this artistic oasis.

My time at the hotel evolved into a perfect blend of relaxation and exploration. The village has countless hidden treasures, including the quirky Gwyllt Woodland Gardens, where exotic plants flourish in a protected area of ancient trees. As I strolled along the carefully maintained paths, I marveled at the juxtaposition of the lush greenery and the vibrant colors of the village.

At the close of the day, I walked along the river estuary as the setting sun painted the sky in shades of pink and gold. The tranquility of my surroundings and the rhythmic lapping of the water against the shore created an exhilarating calm that grounded me. The village glowed with soft light as day turned to night, casting a magical glow on the cobblestone streets.

The dining experience at Hotel Portmeirion proved to be a gastronomic delight. The art deco dining room featured a menu that celebrated local produce and showcased the rich flavors of North Wales. I enjoyed sumptuous dinners, as each meal became a culinary journey, with dishes highlighting the region’s culinary traditions while incorporating a modern twist. Attentive service and a welcoming atmosphere made every dining experience even more enjoyable.

Sample dishes include lavender and black pepper glazed Creedy Carver duck breast, confit leg pomme Anna, Swiss chard, turnip, and charred peach and strawberry and meadowsweet soured cream tart au fine with strawberry marshmallow sorbet for dessert.

I didn’t overlook the hotel’s spa facilities, receiving rejuvenating treatments that contributed to the following day’s activities. The soothing massage and tranquil surroundings perfectly balanced my outdoor adventure, ensuring harmony between mind and body.

As my stay in North Wales drew to its close, I reflected on the fascinating combination of natural wonders and artistic brilliance that makes up this region. The majestic mountains of Snowdonia National Park provided a challenging yet rewarding outdoor playground. At the same time, Hotel Portmeirion offered a luxurious retreat that blended seamlessly with the quirky charm of its surroundings.

As it turns out, my journey through North Wales wasn’t just about conquering mountains and indulging in luxury. The passage of time had not dimmed my father’s nostalgic descriptions of the natural beauty, cultural richness, and warm Welsh hospitality. Memories of Snowdonia’s rugged landscape and the Hotel Portmeirion’s unique charm will stay with me forever, reminding me that valid travel is more than just a physical journey but something that may resonate more deeply.

The author of this article was sponsored by Visit Wales but has written an honest and unbiased account of his experiences.