During the last few years, the Northern Lights or Aurora Borealis have been more in the news, as the lights have been more prominent, frequent, and even showing up in the southern U.S. This has increased the interest in “skywatching” travel or “astrotourism.” I have to admit that I’ve become more interested and even ventured to arctic Norway in 2022 to see the Aurora. It did not disappoint!
Multicolored northern lights (Aurora borealis) in Iceland. Stock photo.
I have been lucky enough to happen upon some great skywatching during my travels. I saw an incredibly large moon rise above a mountain on the island of St. John in the Caribbean with Venus hanging down from it like a pendant. I saw the Milky Way and a myriad of stars in a dark sky location on the western cape of South Africa.
But I’m now becoming more interested in visiting places specifically for their dark sky, which makes for a better opportunity to see celestial wonders. At the top of my list is the Atacama Desert of Chile, which is considered one of the best places on the planet for stargazing. The caveat is that it’s at a high elevation and one of the driest places on earth as well. Still, I hope to get there within the next few years.
A rainbow on Rapa Nui at the Nayara Resort. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Nayara Resorts have a property in the Atacama Desert. I stayed at their resort in Rapa Nui (Easter Island) and loved it, so when I go, I plan to stay at Nayara. Rapa Nui, incidentally, offered some pretty good stargazing as well.
I visited Churchill, Manitoba, Canada recently, and while I didn’t see any northern lights while I was there, it’s a prime location for the aurora.
Dark Sky Reserves
There are even dark sky reserves around the world named by DarkSky International. Below are some of the places recommended by the organization:
Westhavelland International Dark Sky Reserve is in Germany and just 100 kilometers from Berlin. In autumn, large migrating birds add to the experience, and it’s supposed to be a great place to see the Milky Way.
The Milky Way over the Atacama Desert in Chile. Stock photo.
Kerry International Dark Sky Reserve is on the Iveragh Peninsula of Ireland. On clear nights, you can see the Andromeda Galaxy here, along with nebulae and meteors.
I also want to highlight some spots in Canada in particular, however, where the best time to visit is between October and March.
Kerry Manley, Head of Marketing at Journeyscape, has commented on Canadian stargazing trends and offered advice on how travellers can boost their chances of spotting the northern lights: “Many places in Canada are primed for spotting the northern lights, but to increase your chances, plan your visit around the equinoxes in March and September. To increase your chances of seeing these, download an aurora tracking app, and aim for nights with KP index* of five or higher.”
The best places to see the stars in Canada. Photo courtesy of Journeyscape.
To help determine the best Canadian destinations for a stargazing trip, the travel experts at North American holiday operator Journeyscape have analyzed various factors, including brightness levels, air quality, precipitation, and more.
The 10 best places to see the stars in Canada are: Waterton Glacier International Peace Park, Wood Buffalo National Park, and Jasper National Park in Alberta; Kejimkujik National Park in Nova Scotia; Grasslands National Park and Fort Walsh National Historic Site in Saskatchewan; Manitoulin Eco Park, Four Corners Algonquin, Killarney Provincial Park, and Bruce Peninsula National Park in Ontario.
Jasper National Park comes in first place with an astrotourism score of 9.92. As the second largest dark-sky preserve in the world, Jasper National Park boasts pitch-black skies (0.18 mcd/m²) framed by the rugged Rockies. Its high mountain altitude reduces atmospheric interference, offering a crystal-clear view of celestial wonders like the Orion Nebula.
Stargazing in Canada. Photo courtesy of Journeyscape.
Bruce Peninsula National Park ranks second with a score of 8.92, and is a fantastic place to spot constellations. Stargazing becomes even more magical in the summer months thanks to the free Bayside Astronomy nights, run by the Bruce Peninsula Biosphere Association. Kerry suggests enhancing your experience with stargazing apps: “Once you’re under the night sky in Canada, apps like Sky Guide, Night Sky, and Stellarium let you point your phone at the sky and identify stars and planets in real-time with augmented reality.”
Killarney Provincial Park, Ontario, takes third place, closely behind Bruce Peninsula, with a score of 8.75. Tucked away on the northern shore of Georgian Bay in Ontario, Killarney Provincial Park is Canada’s ultimate celestial destination. This spot has the perfect balance of accessibility and seclusion, as it’s an hour’s drive from the nearest big town, Sudbury.
To maximize visibility of the stars, Kerry recommends visitors to “plan your visit here around major meteor showers. Perseids (occurring mid-July to mid-August) are often named the best meteor shower of the year, so they’re definitely one you wouldn’t want to miss!”
You can view the full research by Journeyscape here.
Have you seen a great sky show somewhere in the world? If so, please enlighten us in the comments!
When my friend told me he was leaving New York City for the much smaller city of Norwich, England to take over his dad’s fish & chips shop, I couldn’t imagine why. Wouldn’t he get bored?
Then, I visited him in his idyllic town with a population of just over 200,000 and an excellent location near the central eastern coast of the country. As he opened up his shop in the morning, locals passed by and waved. There were friendly faces everywhere, as people sat across the cobblestone street in nice weather. They played with their kids, listened to buskers, read, or simply enjoyed a chat. It was all so gentile and civilized.
“Is there much crime here?” I asked my friend.
“No, the crime rate is fairly low,” he told me.
“Okay,” I said. “Now, I get it.”
As if Norwich weren’t beautiful enough, it also has canals. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Besides the friendly people, what I love most about Norwich is the historic architecture. When I use the word “idyllic,” I don’t use it frivolously. In the 11th century, the city was England’s second largest. You can still see that legacy in its winding streets, some narrow and cobblestone, that mix contemporary buildings with the medieval. You’ll see markers on buildings that date back to that time in the 11th century, including Norwich Castle, which was built by the Normans. Displays inside include animations that give you a taste of life during Henry I’s time period.
Norwich Castle was built in the 11th century. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Another 900-year-old building is the Romanesque Norwich Cathedral with the second tallest spire in the country, as well as the largest monastic cloisters. There are beautiful grounds and gates surrounding the Cathedral, and a canal runs through one of the gates.
Norwich Cathedral watches over a statue of the Duke of Wellington. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
While at the cathedral, look for Nosey Parker’s coat of arms, which are on the wall of the northwest corner of the cloisters. He’s one of Norwich’s most famous residents. Appointed as the Archbishop of Canterbury in 1559, his real name was Matthew, but he got his nickname because he did such a careful job of cleaning up the Church of England, making sure he knew everyone’s business.
The Great Hospital is an example of a 13th century medical facility, with 250 black eagles painted on the chancel ceiling of the cloisters. Meanwhile, the 14th century Halls, which consist of St. Andrew’s Hall and Blackfriars Hall, are the most complete medieval friary complex in England.
Strangers’ Hall is a 14th century building that’s now a museum. There is a Tudor great hall, a Georgian dining room, a room with dollhouses, and a 17th century garden.
One of Norwich’s narrow, winding streets. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Norwich is also known for its rich literary history, as one of only six UNESCO Cities of Literature in the world. Besides literary events held annually, the city has England’s most popular library – the Norfolk and Norwich Millennium Library.
Also a college town, there are lots of young people in Norwich, who keep the city hip at the same time that it’s steeped in tradition. New restaurants open regularly, and there are a variety of cuisines available. Among my favorites are The Belgian Monk with its three-page beer menu and Benedicts, helmed by Chef Richard Bainbridge, a winner of the BBC’s competition TV show, “Great British Menu.”
My friend’s fish & chips shop, Grosvenor Fish Bar, is considered the city’s favorite. Located at Pottergate and Lower Goat Lane on the famed cobblestone Norwich Lanes, the shop serves more than just fish. It also serves patrons at The Birdcage pub across the street when they want to have a pint with their food.
Grosvenor Fish Bar on Norwich’s famous Lanes. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Don’t leave town without having a pint at Adam and Eve, though – the oldest pub in Norwich, purportedly dating back to the 13th century. The current building is not the original, however, but was built in the 17th century (which, by U.S. standards is still pretty old!)
If you’re into shopping, check out the many shops on The Lanes, where you’ll find a subsidiary of London’s Irregular Choice shoe store, where the shoes are works of art. Then, there’s the largest permanent open-air market in England with stands that have multicolored roofs.
To reach Norwich, it takes about two hours by train from London’s Liverpool Street station. It’s the perfect jumping off point for visiting the coast and other sites in Norfolk, such as Great Yarmouth and The Broads, which consist of more than 125 miles of manmade, lock-free waterways.
Oops! The wine I just poured tilted to one side of the glass. Most odd. Then, looking around, seeing the low, heavily beamed ceiling and taking into account the age of this place – the house was built about six hundred years ago – I realized that, most likely, the floor must be leaning a little.
Downstairs at Chesil Rectory in Winchester. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
We were on a three-day visit to Winchester, the ancient capital of England, and were dining at the Chesil Rectory, the city’s oldest commercial property.
Rosary Goats Cheese Rotolo. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
Local partridge was served to our friend, Julie, while Roxie had Rosary Goats Cheese Rotolo, and I had Chesil Bouillabaisse. Though fully enjoying her partridge, Julie jokingly commented that it might have been cooked at the time the house was built. She also took note of an asterisk at the bottom of the menu with a warning that “game birds may contain shot.” Seriously, though, everything was quite satisfactory – cozy and rustic, yet elegant.
Honeyed Set Cream, Sour Blueberries, and Brandy Snap rounded off the meal, complete with the recommended glass of dessert wine, Moscato d’Asti.
Honeyed Set Cream and Sour Blueberries. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
We were seated upstairs. Downstairs, on our way out, after we’d passed several intimate rooms with beamed ceilings, I noticed a private dining area, named after one of Winchester’s former residents, Jane Austin.
Which brings to mind a house cocktail called “The King” after King Alfred, another prominent resident. Back in 828, he made Winchester the capital of England. He now stands, sword in hand, as a statue just three or four blocks from the restaurant, close to the city’s medieval East Gate. A Winchester landmark, he is a towering figure, measuring 17 feet from the base to the top of his outstretched arm.
The statue of King Alfred in Winchester. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
Walking back in a westerly direction, we soon found ourselves on High Street, the city’s main drag. This was my second visit to Winchester, and everything looked rather familiar. Here was the Victorian Guild Hall, and there was the Buttercross, a structure from the 15th century featuring 12 statues.
Guild Hall in Winchester. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
We passed some historic half-timbered buildings, such as the God Begot House, said to have originated in 1001. Then came the High Street clock, jutting out from one of the eaves, and telling us not just the hour but that it was time to turn right for Winchester Royal, our hotel on St. Peter Street.
Winchester Royal Hotel. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
The Winchester Royal turned out to have quite a history. A former Bishop’s home and Benedictine convent built in the 16th century, it has some delightful Renaissance period features such as high ceilings, sash windows, and heavily patterned carpets. It also features a walled garden, which made me wish we had been there in the summer.
Roxie and Julie were in Winchester for the annual Society of Children’s Book Writers & Illustrators British Isles Conference while I was free to roam and explore the city.
The interior of Winchester Cathedral. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
Oooh, Winchester Cathedral, you’re bringin’ me down, You stood and you watched as my baby left town…
The 1960s hit came to mind as I entered the famous place of worship (pictured at top). I must have spent an hour or so walking around in its vast interior. Boasting the longest nave and overall length of any Gothic cathedral in Europe and built in successive stages spanning the 11th to the 16th centuries, it was impressive indeed.
King Arthur’s round table (or so they say) in the Great Hall in Winchester. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
A few minutes’ walk, and I was at another historic landmark, the Great Hall of the Winchester Castle, which claims to house King Arthur’s Round Table. Actually, the table dates from the 13th century, which is about seven hundred years after King Arthur is supposed to have been around. The table was originally unpainted wood. Then, in 1522, it was painted for King Henry VIII, with the names of the legendary Knights written around its edge, and with a portrait of King Arthur – which looks suspiciously like King Henry VIII as a young man.
Still, the table is of considerable historical interest and a great tourist attraction. In the Great Hall, I also noted a monumental statue of Queen Victoria sitting on her throne in full regalia and dimly lit by a stained-glass window.
A dog wearing sunglasses on High Street in Winchester. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
I found myself doing a lot of strolling up and down High Street. The Christmas market was already in full swing. A woman stirring a big ancient-looking pot offered hot chestnuts. I saw a dog with sunglasses, and there on Parchment Street on my right, there was yet another Winchester landmark: the bronze figure of a young man joyfully flying a kite whilst walking across a nearly 20-foot high bridge spanning the street.
Other discoveries included a walk up Gile Hill from which you have a scenic view of the city. Also, the Winchester City Mill, a restored water mill dating back to Saxon times, and presumed to be the oldest watermill in the UK.
Finally, a word about The Royal Oak, a delightful pub squeezed into a dark alleyway, which was just a two-minute walk from our hotel. Entering it, I noticed plenty of oak paneling and was overwhelmed by how packed it was with happy customers. Apparently, this kind of festivity has been going on for a very long time. The place is said to date back to 1002, making this the oldest pub in all of England, although there are others that claim that same thing. I ordered a pint of Kask Ale, which seemed like the right thing to do, and enjoyed the remainder of my visit in Winchester.
Liverpool has plenty of Beatles memorabilia to lure you, but you might be surprised to learn that it has much more to offer the traveler – even those who aren’t fans of the Fab Four. An old city with both new and historical architecture, Liverpool is big enough to give you plenty to do but small enough that you don’t have to endure London-like congestion.
I took the very comfortable and easy train run by Virgin from London’s Euston Station. In just over two hours, our train pulled into Liverpool’s Lime Street Station, and I was right in the center of the city. Of course, the most famous part of Liverpool is the Albert Dock on the River Mersey, where there are numerous museums, galleries, restaurants, shops, and hotels.
The Mersyside Maritime Museum. Photo courtesy of The Mersey Partnership.
My first stops were the Merseyside Maritime Museum and International Slavery Museum, which are housed in the same building at the Albert Dock and free to the public. While the museums are relatively small, I was very impressed with the exhibits. Interactive and unusual, they’re a true experience – not just a walk through one room after another staring at “stuff.” They’re the kind of museums that keep school-aged children engaged.
My favorite exhibit at the Merseyside Maritime Museum depicted the colorful history of the Titanic, Lusitania, and Empress ships. As a port city, Liverpool played a key role in the stories of these vessels. The museum has numerous photographs and memorabilia that give you a real sense of the time period and the immensity of the tragedies, and there are models of the ships that show their grandeur.
Liverpool Photo courtesy of The Mersey Partnership.
The International Slavery Museum is now one of my favorite museums in the world. The exhibits are extraordinarily enlightening and moving. Again, as a port city, Liverpool was intricately involved in the transatlantic slavery of Africans in both Europe and the U.S., but the museum focuses on much more than just this key period of slavery. Ancient slavery is included, as well as modern incidents of human trafficking.
You can watch video interviews with people around the world who have experienced these atrocities firsthand, alongside interviews with historians and ancestors of African slaves. African artifacts give you insight into the lives of the people who were robbed from their homeland, and touchscreen exhibits with earphones give you a detailed idea of what life was like on a plantation in the American south, including words written by the slaves of the time.
Quotes regarding slavery are engraved on the walls throughout the museum, and information about the economics of slavery is given in chilling displays. It’s impossible to walk through the museum without becoming emotional.
Liverpool Albert Dock. Photo courtesy of The Mersey Partnership.
The other main draw at the Albert Dock is The Beatles Story museum, which I found to be more entertaining than I expected. You walk through a series of fun exhibits that take you from the very beginnings of the Fab Four’s music career to the present.
The Beatles Story museum in Liverpool. Photo courtesy of The Mersey Partnership.
There were plenty of things I didn’t know about the Beatles, including some of the clubs where they played in Liverpool when they were teenagers. A very early recording of the group before they were even called the Beatles played in this area of the museum, making it easy to tell that these were exceptionally talented boys.
Of course, if you want to really give over to Beatlemania, you can take the Yellow Duckmarine boat tour on the River Mersey and the Magical Mystery Bus Tour that will take you to Penny Lane and Strawberry Fields, among other locations. You can also visit Paul McCartney’s and John Lennon’s childhood homes outside of the city center.
I didn’t manage to do any of these things, but I did manage to catch the temporary Stuart Sutcliffe exhibit at the Victoria Gallery & Museum on the University of Liverpool campus. Sutcliffe, who was the original bass player for the Beatles and a friend of John Lennon’s, died in his early 20s.
While his development as an artist was stopped short, his work is very emotional and interesting. Some of it is the result of art school assignments, so the small selection of his work that remains is very eclectic. Even though the Sutcliffe exhibit is already gone, the museum’s permanent collection is worth a visit with some exquisite Rembrandt drawings and other masters represented. The building’s architecture is also very beautiful, and there is a nice café inside.
One morning, I took a train for a short ride under the river to the peninsula called The Wirral and visited a friend in West Kirby, a town with a view of Wales and a famous sailing club. We walked along the beach, but I opted not to walk to the nature reserve on Hilbre Island while the tide was out. My visit was in November, when the area is quite cold, so I will save that experience for a visit during warmer weather.
Luxury Room, Hard Days Night Hotel, Liverpool. Photo courtesy of The Mersey Partnership.
I stayed at the Hard Days Night Hotel, a Beatles-themed property that opened in 2008. The four-star hotel is within walking distance of the Albert Dock, and while it is housed in a historical building, the design inside is contemporary. I especially enjoyed the large light fixtures in the lobby with Beatles sheet music hanging down like a mobile, under which are bright orange, green, and red 60s-style chairs.
Lennon Suite, Hard Days Night Hotel, Liverpool. Photo courtesy of The Mersey Partnership.
You might expect the hotel to have a Disneyland-type atmosphere, but nothing could be further from the truth. Located just around the corner from the famous Cavern Club where the Beatles played in the early days, the hotel is very tasteful, and its admiration for the Fab Four is far from cheesy.
The Cavern Club in Liverpool. Photo courtesy of The Mersey Partnership.
As you ride the clear glass elevator, you can view black and white photographs of John, Paul, George, and Ringo on the walls of each floor, which include both original and specially commissioned pieces by photographers like Bill Zygmant and Paul Saltzman.
My room was Paul-inspired with just one beautiful modern portrait of him on the wall. The bed, furniture, service, and amenities were comparable to the world’s best hotels, as was the food served by the hotel’s two restaurants.
My only complaint is that there was no minibar (which isn’t an uncommon omission in Britain), and the shower was a bit small. I loved the black goose down duvet, however, as well as the towel-warmer, electronic control panel by the bed, and appropriately retro décor. I also enjoyed the humor of the doorknob signs, which said “I’ve had a hard days night” and “Help!” instead of “Do not disturb” and “Please make up my room.”
What struck me most about Liverpool is that it’s a cosmopolitan city with plenty to do, but it also has a character that is uniquely its own. An impromptu taxi ride gave me the opportunity to chat with a friendly local, who spoke with great pride about his city and pointed out various places of note as he drove me to my destination.
There is much more to see and do in the city than I managed during my short visit, but considering how easy it is to travel to Liverpool from London, I’m sure I’ll be back – the next time when it’s warmer.
The Langham Hotel in London is as close to perfect as you can get. A 5-star property that could easily be given 6 stars, my experience there – from the facilities to the staff – was nothing short of exquisite. And I don’t use such words frivolously.
Located on the West End close to the shopping of Oxford Street, The Langham’s doorman charmed me immediately upon my arrival and marked my bags so that they didn’t need to follow me into the lobby.
Reception at The Langham Hotel in London. Photo courtesy of Langham Hotels.
When you enter, your senses are greeted with white marble and fresh flowers. Inside, women in pink suits were available to offer assistance. I was personally escorted to my 334-square foot Grand Executive Room in the Regent Wing because it can be difficult to find.
The lobby of The Langham Hotel in London. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I did have to pay attention so that I could make my way back there on my own, as this area of the hotel was a bit out of the way. But it was worth the small amount of extra walking. (In case you think I was given special treatment as a travel writer, I don’t think so. I always observe the way staff members treat other guests, and it appeared everyone received special attention at The Langham. I suspect the management is quite exacting about how guests are treated.)
Regent Wing room at The Langham Hotel in London. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The Regent Wing rooms were done in traditional taupe décor, but the bold violet color of the velvet chairs and bed headboard lent a touch of flash. This shade was repeated in the seating of Artesian, the hotel’s cocktail bar. I loved the damask bedding more than any hotel I have ever experienced; it felt wonderful against my skin.
A Regent Wing room at The Langham Hotel in London. Photo courtesy of Langham Hotels.
Besides a couch and coffee table at the foot of the bed, which faced the television, the minibar contained a drawer with glassware and china for tea and coffee. A selection of teas was included, along with a Nespresso machine. One of the nice details was a pink and gold box that contained stationery and a pink and gold writing pen.
A Grand Executive Room at The Langham Hotel. Photo courtesy of Langham Hotels.
The bath contained fresh orchids and was designed with green marble on the countertop, floor, and detail on the tub. There was a separate shower and a bathroom scale. Unlike many luxury hotels in London, an iron and ironing board were included in the room, as well as a particularly large safe. I always appreciate a safe that’s big enough to hold my ample laptop and camera equipment.
Also, WiFi was free, and there were complimentary bottles of water provided. Of course, the room also had a fine robe, slippers, and hair dryer. Another unusual feature that came in handy was a panel of electrical and data outlets that included both a U.S. and a European plug besides UK outlets.
The Langham has 380 rooms and suites, as well as conference facilities and a Grand Ballroom that holds 375. There is a Chuan Spa and a fitness center with equipment, salt sauna, steam rooms, and swimming pool.
The Palm Court at The Langham Hotel in London. Photo courtesy of Langham Hotels.
More even than the amenities, I was impressed by the staff – each of whom addressed me by name whenever I called with a request – and also by the breakfast. The Langham has the elegant The Palm Court on the property, where breakfast, afternoon high tea, and lunch are served. It’s the first place in the UK where high tea was served in 1865. In fact, The Langham has been famous for its high tea since then and frequently wins “Best Afternoon Tea” awards.
Everything was prepared and presented with great attention to detail and quality. A small buffet included cold meats, fruits, breads, and pastries, but you could also order a full English breakfast. Even the breads and fruits were especially fine, and the service was impeccable.
Chex Roux at The Langham Hotel. Photo courtesy of Langham Hotels.
Chex Roux is available for dinner, and there are two beautiful bars, as well as private dining available and a cookery school.
The Langham has quite a history and claims to be London’s first “Grand Hotel.” The building endured bomb damage during World War II and is the first hotel in London to install air conditioning. Some people even say the property is haunted, although I didn’t see any evidence of that during my stay. One of the purported ghosts is a German prince who, in a lovesick state, hurled himself off the balcony of his room.
There was a famous meeting there in 1889 between Oscar Wilde, Arthur Conan Doyle, and editor Joseph Marshall Stoddart. Doyle mentioned the hotel in some of his Sherlock Holmes stories, and the property has been used in films, including the James Bond movie “Golden Eye.”
The Artesian bar at The Langham Hotel in London. Photo courtesy of Langham Hotels.
Some of The Langham’s other distinguished guests over the years have included Mark Twain, Napoleon III, Antonin Dvorak, Arturo Toscanini, Winston Churchill, Charles de Gaulle, Noel Coward, Emperor Haile Selassie of Ethiopia, and Princess Diana.
It’s one thing to feel privileged to stay in a hotel with such a history, but it’s another to have it live up to its reputation 100%. If this property is any indication of the quality of Langham Hotels elsewhere in the world, I hope to experience another one before long.
The author of this story received complimentary accommodations at The Langham, but as always, we are dedicated to providing unbiased opinions of our experiences. Our allegiance is to you, our readers.
