Ladyboys: Elizabeth Waterman’s ‘Unseen Thailand’
If you’ve ever been to Thailand, you’ve probably heard about (and perhaps saw) the famous Ladyboys. Commonly referred to as “Katoeys” in Thailand, Ladyboys are individuals assigned male at birth who present themselves in a feminine manner and may identify as female or as part of the gender spectrum.
Thailand is now the first nation in Southeast Asia to legalize same-sex marriage and Is considering a Gender Recognition Bill. Over the past several years, Los Angeles–based photographer Elizabeth Waterman has traveled repeatedly to Bangkok and Pattaya, photographing “Ladyboys” across nightlife, entertainment, and performance venues.
Her ongoing project, Equality on the Horizon: Thailand’s Ladyboys, captures both the vibrancy and the challenges of a community at the center of a major cultural and political shift. New projects include intimate portraits of Tunyawaj Kamolwongwat, a Member of Parliament and key figure in the pending Gender Recognition Bill.
She is also working on a photography book called MONEYGAME Thailand. It will offer an intimate, humanistic look inside Thailand’s sex industry – from Ladyboys working the neon-soaked GoGo bars of Bangkok and Pattaya to freelance escorts along the shorelines. Shot entirely on analog film, the project reveals a world rarely seen up close, capturing moments of tenderness, resilience, and spiritual ritual that coexist within an industry often misunderstood and misrepresented.
It will also include human stories. Here’s an excerpt: “Chrissy, a young Ladyboy in her early twenties, taught herself flawless English from Instagram videos. Rejected by her family and surviving a suicide attempt, she rebuilt her life in Pattaya’s Walking Street. She works nightly from 7 p.m. to 3 a.m., studies for her GED when she can, and dreams of attending college. ‘Being a ladyboy is sometimes hard… I got no plans, to be honest,’ she told me, though her determination says otherwise.”
Here’s an excerpt about Bam: “In Pattaya, three young Ladyboys share a one-room apartment, sleeping in shifts on a single bed. Despite life’s constraints, Bam says, ‘We’re all just human. I was born with two hands, two feet. I’m no different than anyone else’” Because Thai law prevents Ladyboys from changing their legal gender, most cannot apply for professional jobs as women—forcing many into sex work despite their aspirations.”
And one more excerpt: “Many of the women I met in their twenties are mothers supporting two or three children. In Thai culture, providing for one’s family is an honorable duty, and sex work is often seen through that lens – without the shame imposed by Western perspectives. Even though abortion is decriminalized, access remains inconsistent, leaving many women responsible for caring for and supporting young children while juggling demanding night work.”
As luxury travelers, it’s easy for us to miss and ignore the realities of living in the places we visit. I think it’s good to learn what we can about all of the people in countries around the world, not just those in the mainstream, and let go of the stereotypes we might hold about them.