Restaurant Review: A Rare Cut of Timeless New York – Inside Gallaghers Steakhouse NYC

Restaurant Review: A Rare Cut of Timeless New York – Inside Gallaghers Steakhouse NYC

by | Food, Wine, Spirits, North America, Top Stories

Tucked just steps from Times Square and the bright lights of Broadway, Gallaghers Steakhouse stands as more than just a restaurant – it’s a living piece of Manhattan history. Having originally opened in 1927 as a Prohibition-era speakeasy, the iconic 52nd Street spot has transformed into a celebrated steakhouse without ever losing its edge … or soul.

Under the stewardship of current owner Dean Poll, Gallaghers has undergone a faithful restoration that reclaims its roaring 20s roots while doubling down on culinary craftsmanship. Today, it isn’t just one of New York’s top-rated dining destinations – it’s one of the last remaining steakhouses in the city that still does things the hard (and right) way.

Steak the Old-Fashioned Way—Over Fire and Time

In an era when many steakhouses prioritize margins over methods, Gallaghers stands firm in its commitment not only to in-house dry-aging and hand-cutting, but also hickory coal grilling. Hickory coals, not broilers, fuel the kitchen, demanding skilled chefs who know their fire and temperatures inside and out.

Gallaghers Steakhouse. Photo courtesy of Gallaghers.

The restaurant maintains a glass-encased meat locker on-site, where between 2,800 to 3,800 pounds of prime beef are aged to perfection for 28 to 30 days in a meticulously controlled, ideally dry meat locker environment below 36°F. This age-old practice develops that signature rich, nutty flavor that steak aficionados crave.

The meat rack at Gallaghers Steakhouse. Photo courtesy of Gallaghers.

Unlike restaurants that buy pre-aged and portioned beef, Gallaghers employs professional butchers in-house, tailoring cuts with precision and ensuring freshness from locker to plate. From there, steaks are grilled over real hickory coals, delivering that distinct charred aroma and flavor profile often lost in modern kitchens.

Hospitality with Heritage

From the moment you step into Gallaghers, the experience is transportive. You’re greeted not by gimmicks, but by silver place settings, pressed linens, and a professional service team trained to anticipate needs. There’s no rush or clamor – just the mellow crooning of Sinatra or Tony Bennett floating through the dining room, echoing the glamour of a bygone age.

Gallaghers Steakhouse. Photo courtesy of Gallaghers.

The walls are lined with photographs of the famous, the infamous, and the iconic from Broadway stars and boxers to politicians and sports legends, each telling a story of a night well spent. Ask for a seat adjacent to a photo wall, and savor stepping back in time over a perfectly charred porterhouse. You’re not just eating; you’re part of the story.

While it’s easy to get swept up in the nostalgic charm, Gallaghers is hardly stuck in the past. The team is highly trained to accommodate modern dietary preferences and restrictions, customizing dishes without compromising flavor or experience.

Recognized and Respected

In recent years, Gallaghers has earned a parade of honors, including OpenTable’s “America’s Top 100 Restaurants” (2022, 2024), and The Infatuation’s highest-ranked NYC steakhouse. It’s been featured in an array of top-tier F&B media, including Forbes, Eater, Tasting Table, Daily Meal, TimeOut, and more, praised not just for its cuisine, but for maintaining a steadfast standard in a world of culinary shortcuts.

The upstairs bar at Gallaghers Steakhouse. Photo courtesy of Gallaghers.

During my own recent lunch visit, the experience was exceptionally on par with the dynamism, quality, and care from the knowledgeable and professional service staff proffered with each dinner service.

The lunch kicked off with a truly soul-warming French Onion Soup with Three-Cheese Crouton. Arriving in a steamy crock, the broth – a deep amber – was intensely savory, having been slow-simmered with caramelized onions until it achieved a luxuriously sweet and complex flavor.

What truly elevates this starter is the generous, golden-brown crouton floating on top, absolutely drenched in a bubbling, decadent blend of Gruyère, Parmesan, and Swiss cheeses, melted to crisp-edged perfection. It’s a hearty dish that manages to be both rustic and refined, delivering a comforting balance of deep umami and creamy indulgence in every single spoonful.

Gallaghers Steakhouse. Photo courtesy of Gallaghers.

Next, I sampled the Gallaghers Crab Cake, and it proved to be a testament to the kitchen’s focus on purity and precision. This isn’t a filler-heavy crab cake; it’s crafted with generous, sweet, and incredibly succulent lumps of fresh crabmeat. The seasoning is just right, enhancing the ocean-fresh flavor without ever overwhelming it.

Pan-seared, it boasts a perfectly crisp, golden exterior, while the inside remains wonderfully tender and moist. It’s served with a delicate remoulade, and the dish found a lovely balance between subtle heat and bright acidity, easily making it a standout appetizer.

As an enduring steakhouse staple, Gallaghers’ Oysters Rockefeller certainly honors tradition, but with a distinctly luxurious spin. The fresh, briny oysters provided a delightful base for a velvety mixture of sautéed greens, rich butter, fragrant herbs, and light breadcrumbs.

Gallaghers Steakhouse. Photo courtesy of Gallaghers.

Broiled until the topping was beautifully browned and bubbling, each bite delivered a warm, savory experience. The delicate ocean essence of the oyster perfectly melded with the richness of the topping for a truly harmonious blend of sea and spice presented elegantly in its shell.

For the main event, the Gallaghers Lamb Chops were an absolute triumph. These thick-cut chops were expertly grilled and absolutely bursting with flavor. Sourced for their superior marbling and inherent tenderness, they were seasoned simply with salt and cracked pepper, allowing their natural richness to truly shine.

Charred just enough to impart a smoky depth, they arrived perfectly juicy and pink at the center, accompanied by roasted garlic and a side of housemade mint jelly, as I requested. A bold, incredibly satisfying dish.

To conclude this memorable feast, the Ice Cream Sundae was a pure joy and nostalgia served with a polished flair. Towering scoops of premium vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry ice cream came generously crowned with rich whipped cream, fudge, and berries, all flanked by caramelized banana halves. It was truly a sweet, celebratory and unforgettable finish to an exceptional meal.

From beginning to end, each dish felt like a perfected rendition of a beloved standard, leaving a lasting impression.

The wedge salad at Gallaghers Steakhouse. Photo courtesy of Gallaghers.

What’s Poll’s own personal favorite item on the menu? “The wedge salad chopped and rare sirloin steak, with a side of creamed spinach, brussels sprouts, and hashed browns … and, for dessert, a piece of cheesecake,” he listed.

It’s important to note that what happens behind the scenes also sets Gallaghers well apart. Beyond the locker, no meat goes to waste. The restaurant maintains a sustainable philosophy, turning every unused part and scrap of the butchered meat – bone, fat, and trimmings – into stock or renewable biofuel via a specialized partner. That commitment to full-circle responsibility is rare, especially in high-volume urban dining.

Cheesecake at Gallaghers Steakhouse. Photo courtesy of Gallaghers.

A Rare Slice of New York that Still Does It Right

Gallaghers has a fascinating origin as a speakeasy that morphed into a steakhouse frequented by bootleggers, Broadway legends, and politicians. When it was a speakeasy, it was owned by a chorus girl, actress, and model named Evelyn Nesbit. She had a love affair with renowned architect Stanford White, who was murdered by her ex-husband Harry Thaw.

Gallaghers Steakhouse. Photo courtesy of Gallaghers.

When Thaw was released from jail, he came to her speakeasy named Club Evelyn and made a huge scene, which is documented in a New York Times story, causing Nesbit to quit the business. Helen Gallagher and Jack Solomon had the food concession of that speakeasy, so once Nesbit left, they took it over and called it “Gallaghers Steakhouse,” continuing to serve illegal liquor, listing it on the menu as “the other soup.”

Today, in a modern world of shortcuts and pre-packaged convenience, Gallaghers remains a defiant ode to craftsmanship, hospitality, and authenticity. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned local, dining at Gallaghers isn’t just about the steak – it’s about honoring a legacy that continues to be seared into the soul of New York City.

Anto Korean Steakhouse, New York City

Anto Korean Steakhouse, New York City

by  and  | Food, Wine, Spirits, North America, Top Stories

On a cold Sunday evening, we drove into Manhattan to try Anto, a new upscale Korean steakhouse that has opened on East 58th street in the space where “Felidia,” Lydia Bastianich’s temple of Northern Italian gastronomy, used to be.

Anto is the U.S. venture of Korean chef Jeong Muk Kim who has been at the helm as executive chef of the famous Myomi (“subtle charm”) restaurant in Seoul that has garnered and maintained a Michelin star for a number of years.

The restaurant is a dual-level, 130-seat space that features an elegant entrance into the bar where mixologists busily create cocktails of distinction.

The first floor dining room at Anto Korean Steakhouse. Photo courtesy of Anto.

Two dining rooms follow on the ground floor. The first is small, mainly illuminated by back-lit translucent screens along one wall, while the opposite side displays a series of masks mounted above the diners’ heads. This is the only decoration in the room, keeping your focus on the food.

Brown tabletops with braziers set into the center, dark brown banquettes, and comfortable armchairs complete the décor of the room. The other dining area is decorated in a similar fashion and overlooks an open prep kitchen behind a large glass wall where there is also a staircase leading to the upper floor. This is where “Gori,” the Chef’s Counter, is located, comfortably seating as many as 10 individuals. Patrons who value observing how dishes are made are able to watch and interact with the cooks in action.

We arrived at around 6:30 p.m., and the downstairs part of the restaurant was full. The young guests we saw seemed to be mostly of Korean descent, but I heard a few Chinese voices as well. That proved to us that the food is authentic and not an Americanized version of Korean cuisine. The other sign of authenticity was the fieriness of the couple of versions of kimchi that were brought to the table when the meat selections were presented. The overall ambience was special.

Midori cocktail at Anto. Photo by Manos Angelakis.

A few minutes after we were seated, the waitperson took our drinks order. We ordered a glass of Korean beer that tasted like a Belgian lager and a green Midori cocktail, which arrived in an old fashioned glass with a bright yellow marigold flower resting on top. It was was as delicious as it was beautiful.

Luis Vuitton chest at Anto. Photo by Manos Angelakis.

A vintage Luis Vuitton-monogrammed vanity case was brought to the table filled with samples of the prime ingredients of the Premium Chest tasting menu that our meal would consist of.

Seafood platter at Anto. Photo by Manos Angelakis.

Once the oohs, ahs, and picture-taking were completed, the chest was removed. In its place, a plate containing House Chojang Oysters and Carabineros crustaceans (very large red shrimp) was delivered to the table, along with slices of lemon, lime, grapefruit, and a Yuzu Gochuyang dipping sauce.

The gargantuan red shrimps were shelled but raw, and while the Korean group sitting next to us consumed the entire shrimp (minus the shells, of course), including liver and entrails, we were satisfied with just the large body. For someone who has experienced “jumping shrimp” at a sushi restaurant in Tokyo’s Ginza, the raw shrimp was exceptionally tasty and not that unusual!

The caviar course at Anto. Photo by Manos Angelakis.

For both of us, the highlight of the meal was the one-ounce tin of Kaviari (French farmed Sevruga caviar) with all the attending accoutrements including potato pancakes, chopped white and yellow egg, pickled onions and chives, plus the yummy addition of tofu mousse with saffron threads.

Assortment of sauces at Anto. Photo by Manos Angelakis.

Next, the waiter brought a tray filled with traditional Korean side dishes and sauces, lining them up on our table. There were two kinds of kimchi (very spicy marinated cabbage), a bowl of red and green lettuce leaves, raw cubes of tuna, shredded salad topped with a raw quail egg, chopped anchovies, tomato wedges, a bowl of pickled daikon radishes, salt and pepper, several dipping sauces, and a bowl of bean paste – all there in preparation to use with the meat course.

The brazier was lit, and the waiter presented three pieces of steak: rib eye, American Wagyu, and marinated Galbi (short rib) to cook to order at our table.

Wagyu beef on the grill at Anto. Photo by Manos Angelakis.

Once each piece of meat was cooked to our liking, our waiter cut the meat into bite-sized pieces with large scissors. The menu also included perfectly cooked duck breast with an exceptional crispy glazed skin – succulent and delicious.

Assorted side dishes for grilled meat at Anto. Photo by Manos Angelakis.

Those familiar with Korean cuisine know that it’s quite spicy, like many of the cuisines in that part of the world. At Anto, the use of small bites of high quality meats is tempered with pickled vegetables of varying spiciness such as the above-mentioned kimchi. While very healthy, we consider it to be an acquired taste, however.

Unlike Chinese pickled cabbage, which is savory, kimchi is HOT, as was the tofu soup served with the menu. There was also a rice and meat dish topped with a large fried egg to be mixed at the table.

The dinner was a more than three-hour extravaganza that ended with a delightful Korean dessert of creamy gelato.

As with many New York City restaurants, the sound level was extremely high without acoustical tiles to moderate it, but the young clientele was only too happy to add their energy to the restaurant. If you like spicy dishes, you will love Anto!