One of the best American New York City-based chefs, David Boulay, passed away February 12, 2024 from a heart attack.
He was a master of creating memorable dishes from simple, many times organic, ingredients with intense flavors. Wherever he cooked, whether at his Tribeca restaurant or his loft test kitchen, the food was exceptional, and we would spend time with his cooking, numerous hours tasting, and enjoying innovative dish after innovative dish.
As far as I’m concerned, no one could create an airy soufflé made with goat cheese like he did. His sauces were complex and intriguing even though his dishes were light. His interest in Asian dishes translated into a disdain for over-processed American fare. He advocated for wellness menus with plant-based ingredients before many of the other starred chefs did.
I used to love dining at Danube, his later restaurant, where he led the USA movement of farm-to-table, great tasting cuisine. He made haute dining compatible with America’s urban tastes.
Following 9/11, he kept ground zero responders well fed while they worked the debris piles. He will be missed.
Kruger National Park in South Africa – a name that resonates with the stampede of blue wildebeest, the trumpet of elephants nearby, or the call of the African fish eagle – offers an array of private lodges that promise experiences as diverse as the park’s wildlife.
For the discerning traveler reading through magazines and blogs, yearning for that personal window into the untamed, navigating the choice of lodges can be as daunting as crossing a crocodile-infested riverbed.
Did you know a Kruger safari starts long before you step onto the plains of Africa? It begins with good planning to select the most luxurious private game lodge. Perhaps you picture yourself sipping a sundowner as the golden sun dips below the horizon, or maybe you long to wake to the roar of a lion at dawn. These imaginings form the roadmap that will guide your choice to the best experience in Kruger.
Kruger National Park. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Each private lodge within Kruger has a character of its own, from ultra-luxurious tents that whisper the safari spirit to contemporary suites that frame nature’s grandeur through floor-to-ceiling glass windows and doors. Decide what hints of opulence will define your stay: a plunge pool overlooking a watering hole, a private butler, or maybe a spa under a canopy of African stars.
We at TravelBuddiesLifestyle.com curated the most luxurious lodges within the Kruger National Park, one of Africa’s most well-known and superior game reserves.
What is a private concession camp?
As the name suggests, a private luxury lodge refers to a luxurious concession camp within the Big 5 Kruger National Park. A private concession allows prime operators to offer guests exclusive safari experiences on a private reserve while sharing the unfenced boundaries of the Kruger National Park.
Access to a private lodge is restricted to guests staying at the lodges. SANParks refer to these lodges as “Golden Kudus.” Guests access these lodges through the Kruger National Park’s main gates closest to the private lodges. Kruger National Park gate entry fees apply, as do gate opening and closing times.
Moreover, at a private luxury lodge, you’re not just a visitor or tourist; you’re an honored guest in the heart of the wilderness. These exclusive private lodges offer serene escapes away from the masses but are surrounded by the abundance of the Big 5. Here, discerning guests can enjoy sophistication in the bush veld on their terms.
So, why merely visit when you can be an honored guest? Experience Africa as it’s meant to be – breathtaking, exclusive, and unforgettable. A stay at a private lodge is guaranteed to be up close and personal.
Many of our curated private lodges offer authentic African Safari-style accommodation in elevated permanent tents with raised wooden platforms overlooking unfenced terrain. Twice daily game drives are guaranteed to be unforgettable experiences. Meals are mostly served on the open plains, and dinners are next to a crackling boma fire under the African sky.
Here is our list of the most luxurious private lodges located within the boundaries of the Kruger National Park:
Nkuhlu Tented Camp
Nkuhlu luxury tented camp is the latest edition of concession camps in the Kruger National Park. This hidden treasure opened in May 2023. The camp is perfectly positioned next to the Nkuhlu picnic spot between Lower Sabie rest camp and Skukuza rest camp on the H4-1 road in the Kruger National Park. (See the photo at the top of the article, courtesy of Nkuhlu and TravelBuddiesLifestyle.com.)
This self-catering camp allows you to enjoy the flexibility of self-drive within the Kruger National Park while enjoying stylish yet unpretentious accommodation. The tents feature a well-equipped kitchenette with a fridge, gas stove, and microwave. The patio has a gas braai; no wood or open fires are allowed near the camp. Being eco-friendly, the lodge relies entirely on solar and gas. Children under the age of 12 are not accommodated at this camp.
Imbali Safari Lodge
Imbali Safari Lodge offers 12 spacious thatched private suites, each with a romantic antique-style en-suite bathroom and plunge pool in understated luxury. The lodge is set on the banks of the N’waswitsonto River, 85 km from Skukuza Airport and 42 km from Orpen Gate. Children six years and older are welcome. Self-drive and 4×4 game drives are available.
Jock Safari Lodge
The pristine Jock Safari Lodge is halfway between Skukuza rest camp and Malelane Gate in Kruger. It’s named after the classic African tale “Jock of the Bushveld” by Sir Percy Fitz Patrick. The private 12 thatched suites provide uninterrupted views over a riverbed. This fully inclusive lodge offers two daily game drives, guided safari wilderness walks, inclusive of all meals and afternoon teas, a selection of house beverages, and game drive beverages. Bookings made six months or more before arrival qualify for a 10% discount.
Jock Safari Lodge guest area. Photo courtesy of Jock Safari Lodge and TravelBuddiesLifestyle.com.
Kruger Shalati
This lodge is for you if you want an elevated experience of Kruger’s breathtaking scenery. Kruger Shalati is a reminder of a bygone African railway era, with its 24 carriage suites permanently located on the original Selati Train Bridge. The large, glass-walled train carriages offer infinite views of the Sabie River. (See the photo at the top of the article, courtesy of Kruger Shalati and TravelBuddiesLifestyle.com.)
Kruger Shalati. Photo courtesy of Kruger Shalati and TravelBuddiesLifestyle.com.
The most impressive feature is its custom-built farm-style pool with a viewing deck, offering spectacular sights only a few meters below. Children under 12 are not permitted to stay on the Train on the Bridge but are accommodated in the Kruger Shalati Bridge House suites.
Lukimbi Safari Lodge
This family-friendly lodge accommodates children of from age two and older, and it provides age-appropriate activities. Children-friendly activities include walks, crafts, treasure hunts, special children’s dinners, and picnics, while parents enjoy some well-deserved relaxing time in the bushveld. The lodge even offers a children’s paddle pool. Lukimbi Safari Lodge is accessed through Malelane Gate.
Some of the lodge’s most unique features include a private chapel with seating for 32 guests, a well-equipped gym, a spa, an inviting adult swimming pool, and a kiddies’ pool. It has a well-stocked bar, wine cellar, and boma. The piece de resistance is their curio shop with exquisite and unique souvenirs.
Avid golfers can look forward to a game of golf at Leopard Creek. Imagine witnessing giraffes graze on thorn trees as you pitch a shot over a lake infested with crocodiles and hippos. At the cost of R6400.00 (subject to change) per round of 18 holes, excluding transfers and club hire, the lodge can arrange this once-in-a-lifetime experience for you. Reservations must be made through the lodge.
How to get there:
Lukimbi can be reached by road. It is 440 km from Johannesburg on the N4 highway.
Guests can fly into Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport (KMI) or Skukuza Airport. Transfers to the lodge can be arranged.
Charter flights to Malelane airstrip are available on request. Transfers to the lodge can be arranged.
Rhino Walking Safaris
Rhino Walking Safaris‘ intimate trail camp (not previously open to the public) is in the unspoiled wilderness near Skukuza rest camp. At Plains Camp, guests will not be concerned about comfort, as it offers well-appointed luxurious tents with quality linen, a plunge pool, and a dedicated chef to prepare traditional African meals in an unprecedented setting.
In addition to the comfortable sleeping arrangements at Plains Camp, the lodge offers adventure-seekers the opportunity to experience a night under the stars by pre-booking a night at Rhino Post Safari Lodge or the Sleep-Out Decks. Visit their website for more information about their sleep-outs.
Singita Sweni Lodge
Singita is the Rolls Royce of all game lodges in Africa. Singita Sweni is an intimate lodge perched on the banks of the Sweni River, known for its contemporary design, architecture, and cuisine. It seven exclusive suites hidden among a canopy of trees, each featuring open-plan interiors. Guests can expect superior, qualified guides, personalized itineraries, and tailored services.
A room at Singita Sweni Lodge. Photo courtesy of Singita and TravelBuddiesLifestyle.com.
The sister lodge, Singita Lebombo, is an extraordinary idyllic lodge located next to Sweni. This exquisite and contemporary lodge was inspired by eagles’ nests built into the cliff face of the river bank, resulting in a floating structure between the river and the sky.
Lion Sands Kruger National Park
Have you always dreamed of spending a night in a treehouse in the African bushveld? The Lion Sands Kruger has twin lodges, Tinga and Narina, near the Skukuza Airport. You can book this once-in-a-lifetime experience with your lodge accommodation at Lions Sands. Their two treehouses suit families and accommodate two children ages 10 to 14.
They offer a tailormade astral safari, offering guests never-before-experienced star-gazing opportunities. They also have excellent kiddies’ programs, which include dung tracking, bush orientation, bug CSI, shadow casting, rock painting, pizza-making in bomas, cookie-baking and decorating, and many more fun activities.
Hamilton’s Tented Camp
Hamilton’s Tented Camp is for you if you are after uncompromising elegance and breathtaking beauty with butler service! This “Out of Africa” style lodge features six magnificent permanent, elevated tented suites with teak floors, private plunge pools, and extraordinary views across the seasonal river. Hamilton’s is located in the Mluwati concession in the western region of the Kruger National Park and is only 63km from Skukuza Airport. The closest Kruger National Park rest camp is Satara.
Twilight meals at Hamilton’s Tented Camp. Photo courtesy of Hamilton’s and TravelBuddiesLifestyle.com.
Hoyo Hoyo Safari Lodge
Hoyo Hoyo Safari Lodge, Imbali Safari Lodge, and Hamiltons Tented Camp are in the same area. The Tsonga tradition is evident in the lavish suites with the warm African glow, adorned with traditional ornaments and lamps, bringing the local culture to life. Guided game drives in 4×4 vehicles are available twice daily; self-drive is permitted outside the concession area.
Shishangeni
Shishangeni by BON Hotels is a private Game Lodge with two sister camps, Camp Shawu and Camp Shonga. Shishangeni Lodge is located near Crocodile Bridge rest camp in the southeastern section of Kruger. The lodge consists of solid thatched structures that accommodate 44 guests, with interleading family rooms. Baby-sitting options are available, but advance booking is necessary.
Camp Shawu is named after one of the famous Magnificent Seven elephants. Shawu bull, with the longest-ever recorded tusks in South Africa, roamed their valley for 60 years. Interestingly, the walls of Camp Shawu are plastered with buffalo dung to capture the authentic spirit of Africa. The camp can host ten guests in five spacious rooms.
Camp Shonga is a small and intimate bush retreat, also with accommodation for ten guests in five magnificent permanent tents.
Are you still undecided about staying at a private luxury lodge in the Kruger National Park, especially considering the hefty price tag?
Is it really worth staying at a private lodge instead of in a commercial camp in Kruger?
You decide after reading all the benefits:
Game drives are less restrictive as only the lodge’s vehicles traverse the concession area.
Guided walks by highly qualified guides (by prior arrangement and at an additional cost) make for an unforgettable experience.
Safari experiences are exclusive and intimate.
Up-close encounters with predators are almost guaranteed.
Everything is fully inclusive. Your accommodation includes two daily game drives (on an open 4X4 safari vehicle with qualified rangers and trackers), bush walks, and meals.
The specialized game rangers have extensive knowledge and experience of the bush to ensure you get the best sightings.
The game rangers are regularly in contact with each other to share information on animal sightings.
Several lodges allow a self-drive from their concession area into Kruger National Park.
Zebras in Kruger National Park. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Some considerations when staying in a luxury private lodge in Kruger National Park
The majority of the lodges are very pricey.
Because the traversing area is much smaller in the concession area than in the Kruger National Park, you are likely to see fewer varieties of animal species and smaller herds.
Some lodges do not allow children under the age of 12.
Most camps offer all-inclusive rates.
You may have to share the game drive with other guests.
Several lodges have a minimum two-night stay.
Why a Private Lodge in Kruger Reigns Supreme
In the heart of South Africa’s wilderness, a stay at a luxury lodge in Kruger National Park is more than just a holiday – it’s a transcendent experience that skillfully marries the thrills of the wild with the comforts of the refined. As you ponder the balance between cost and unique offerings, consider the unparalleled service, the tailored safari excursions, and the hushed intimacy of nature’s theatre, all of which melt into memories that linger far beyond your departure.
Whether you’re sipping a sundowner as elephants amble by or sitting by your private plunge pool under the star-kissed sky, these lodges offer a level of exclusivity that far outweighs the opulence. So, when you weigh your options, envisage the extraordinary encounters, the serene ambience, and the meticulous attention to detail that define a luxury lodge stay in Kruger, making it indeed an investment in an unforgettable adventure.
The time has come… The Walrus said To talk of many things: Of shoes — and ships — and sealing wax — Of cabbages — and kings — And why the sea is boiling hot And whether pigs have wings
The Walrus and the Carpenter a narrative poem by Lewis Carroll Through the Looking-Glass (1871)
Yes… keeping a respectful distance, I spoke with a sea lion (the Southern cousin of the walrus) during our recent Antarctica trip on board Quark Expeditions’ Ultramarine, an expedition vessel plying the waters of the Beagle Channel and the Drake Passage at the tip of Argentinean Patagonia, the Tierra del Fuego, Cape Horn, and the Antarctic Peninsula.
We made small talk as he lay on a little rocky promontory covered with ice and snow, among the females of his harem!
Penguins in Antarctica. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
And no, the sea was not “boiling hot.” It was actually frozen with ice floating around our vessel, and the Zodiacs that ferried us around. But then, again, the sea lion had so much blubber enrobing him that to him, I’m sure, the sea was warm.
Photo by Manos Angelakis.
One of the items in my bucket list has been a visit to Tierra del Fuego and Antarctica. When I was a teenager, I had read Jules Verne’s Le Phare du bout du monde, i.e. The Lighthouse at the End of the World, and that book became the basis for my desire to visit the southernmost tip of South America and the frozen Seventh Continent.
So when Quark Expeditions invited us to embark on a trip on their newest “Ultramarine,” a luxurious expedition vessel that usually sails the Antarctic or the Arctic, both Barbara and I jumped at the opportunity.
Unfortunately, COVID happened, so the sailing was postponed a number of times until the opportunity to board the ship resurfaced.
We flew to Buenos Aires for an overnight stay at the Alvear Art Hotel, an urban luxury property in the financial and cultural center of the city. From Buenos Aires, we flew on a charter to Ushuaia, a town at the Southernmost tip of Argentina which is the port from which the Ultramarine, starts and ends its peregrinations. (See Barbara’s story about Ushuaia.)
The Ultramarine is a luxury ship purposefully built for voyages on frozen seas. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The Ultramarine’s exceptionally good stabilizers kept the vessel almost in balance, even while there were gales at up to 70 miles per hour and the notoriously rough seas at the Drake Passage and Cape Horn were producing 6 to 10 foot waves.
For a few days, the ship was rocking to the point that the passenger elevators had to be turned off, and we had to climb numerous stairs to get to the dining room and the theater on the 5th floor or the Panorama lounge on the 7th floor from our spacious stateroom on the 3rd level.
Ultramarine passengers in Zodiacs. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Once we arrived to a destination point, the two helicopters onboard the Ultramarine were launched for flights to visit the glaciers that were the subject of our explorations and the platforms in the back, which are the Zodiac’s launching points. They were lowered so that the Zodiacs, kayaks, and stand-up-paddling-canoes could carry intrepid travelers to visit famous landmarks or view the Arctic fauna such as penguin colonies, seals, and sea lion colonies.
It was too early in the season for humpback whales, but a night-owl passenger saw and recorded a pair of minke whales frolicking at 4 a.m. And there was plenty of light at that hour, as our journey took place in what passes for late spring in Antarctica under what we know as the midnight sun.
I would like to give kudos to the crew and the 34 expedition guides. They were all patient, very informative, always friendly, and extremely professional. The daily lectures given by this impressive group headed by Shane Evoy, the Expedition Leader, were all by highly knowledgeable and enthusiastic chroniclers of the area.
One of the lectures aboard on the Ultramarine. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
We spoke and shared the restaurant’s tables and lounge areas with many other passengers, and all, without exception, were very interesting. Many were highly experienced cruising travelers.
The only fly in the ointment was the kitchen. Many of the dishes were definitely not up to snuff!
This has not been our first rodeo! We started cruising on the QE II, then enjoyed numerous Mediterranean and Caribbean cruises, and very recently a number of Viking river and Western Mediterranean cruises. The kitchens in all these ships were mostly exceptional.
The Greek cruise lines had legendary midnight buffets, and the QE II was well-known to gastronomes for flaming dishes. The Viking and Uniworld ships had chefs who knew what outstanding shipboard meals should be.
On the Ultramarine, the ingredient quality was there, but the preparation left a lot to be desired. The pâtissier was exceptional, and the soup-maker was very, very good. But many of the dishes were not really up to the execution level we expected. They did not seem to know, for example, that fish should not be completely cooked and then kept in a steam table. Doing so overcooks it and dries it up while it’s waiting to be served.
And who ever heard of beef parmigiano with a tasteless brown sauce on top? Many of the main courses were quite under-seasoned. I think an executive chef is desperately needed to revamp the recipes and supervise the execution or perhaps create an entire new menu.
Another little problem was at the bar. There was a list of cocktails that the bar was supposed to be able to make. I ordered three on separate occasions, but they did not have the proper ingredients on hand, nor did the barman know how to properly make any of the three.
I had to instruct him on how to make a proper Bellini and a proper Pisco Sour! In all fairness, most people ordered wine or simple shots, so they should either remove the cocktail list or have the necessary ingredients on hand and teach the bar staff how to use them.
Yes, when it comes to food and beverages, I’m picky. I know good food and wines and expect a luxury ship’s kitchen and cellar to be at a very high level. Perhaps not at the level of a Michelin-starred restaurant, but certainly a reasonably high end.
Pastries on the Ultramarine. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
But I loved the espresso, cappuccino, and hot chocolate that the coffee-maker machine made at the Panorama lounge. And, of course, the little pastries and cookies that were always available by the machine just in case anyone got hungry during the day or night or someone with a sweet tooth had sugar withdrawal symptoms.
All things considered, this was still a spectacular cruise defiantly living up to and even exceeding expectations. Kudos to Quark and to the exceptional crew of the Ultramarine.
The author received a complimentary cruise, but as always, we are dedicated to giving you unbiased accounts of our experiences. See our Disclosures page for more information.
I love a good rice dish, and I frequently cook risottos, paellas, pilafs, and other rice-based recipes.
Risotto alla Milanese is a classic dish from Lombardy in northern Italy. Making risotto the right way may seem like an intimidating undertaking, but with the right ingredients and technique, it’s a dish that’s easy to master and well worth the effort.
In Milan, as well as most areas of Italy, food shops stock more than one variety of short grain rice for risotto. Arborio is the most prevalent. However, Carnaroli and Vialone Nano are two other short grain varieties that are frequently featured on an Italian table.
So I decided to purchase packages of all three for a taste test in my kitchen. Long grain rice, like an Indian Basmati or American Texmati, aren’t considered the right grain for a proper risotto.
Half-cooked saffron risotto alla Milanese. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
I decided to cook up three batches – one from each rice type, keeping all the other variables the same, just to see if and what the taste difference would be. These are luxurious dishes by any standard and any taste change should be very noticeable!
The experiment resulted in mostly subtle differences – not so much in taste but in the texture of the dishes. I was the least pleased with how the arborio rice turned out. It developed a mushy texture toward the end of cooking with the grains becoming less distinct.
Vialone Nano saffron risotto alla Milanese. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The Carnaroli and Vialone Nano retained their form within the creamy sauce. The main taste generator, of course, is the saffron, the Milanese risotto’s star ingredient, and that taste did not change within any of the three dishes.
Assuming you’re willing to invest in a small container of saffron stems, risotto alla Milanese is one of the simplest risottos to make. When done correctly, the finished dish will have that captivating saffron aroma, and each grain of rice will be covered with a very creamy, orange/yellow paste.
Saffron risotto alla Milanese. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
It’s important to use warm stock to cook the rice and add it very slowly. Take care not to overcook. The rice shouldn’t take more than 22 minutes of cooking. Once it becomes al dente, remove the risotto from the heat and stir in the remaining ingredients.
Ingredients:
5 1/2 cups chicken stock (homemade is preferable, but Swanson Broth would be also acceptable) Good-sized pinch of saffron threads 2/3 cup dry white wine (Turbiana wine from Lugana would be a good match) 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 small onion, finely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 1/2 cups short grain rice (about 10 ounces) 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
Method:
In a saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a simmer and keep warm.
Crumble the saffron into the wine and stir until the liquid becomes saffron colored.
In a cast iron pot, heat the olive oil. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper, and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until softened, about 4 to 5 minutes.
Add the rice and cook for 1 minute, stirring to thoroughly coat the rice.
Add the saffron and wine mixture to the rice.
Cook continuously, stirring over moderate heat until the wine is almost fully absorbed by the rice.
Add 1 cup of the warm stock and cook, stirring constantly until all stock is nearly absorbed.
Continue adding the stock 1 cup at a time, stirring constantly until the stock is nearly absorbed between additions.
The risotto is done when the rice is still slightly al dente and suspended in a thick, creamy sauce, about 20 to 22 minutes total. Check the seasoning for salt and pepper. Stir in the cheese, butter, and parsley. Serve immediately, and enjoy!
One of my favorite dishes is “Imam Bayildi,” a classic Ottoman dish traditionally cooked using Italian eggplant in Turkey and long (Asian) eggplant in Greece with plenty of olive oil. It is an integral part of both Turkish and Greek gastronomy, with variants in Lebanese and Egyptian cookery.
Literally translated from the Turkish, the name means “the priest fainted.” That, according to legend, is because the priest saw how much olive oil his wife used in making the dish, when olive oil was an expensive ingredient. Another version of the legend says it was because the dish is such a tasty delight!
Asian eggplant imam bayildi. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
(image – Greek-Style-Imam-Bayildi-Asian Eggplant)
In Eastern Mediterranean cuisine, eggplants are poached in olive oil and some water with a stuffing of cubed tomatoes, a few strips of red pepper (capsicum), onions, and garlic. It’s then served either cold or at room temperature with a slice of lemon on the side. It is a delicious and refreshing dish, very suitable for hot summer days. It just melts in your mouth.
When I was growing up, even though we had an electric stove in our kitchen with a good-sized oven, my mother used to send me carrying a large baking tray with her imam bayildi to the local bakery for the dish to be cooked in the bakery’s brick oven. She believed the large commercial oven had even and consistent temperature.
Turkish imam bayildi. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
In the version I now cook at home, no capsicum is used.
Ingredients (4 to 6 servings):
3 medium white or red onions
2 large or 3 medium tomatoes, chopped
4-5 Asian eggplants; medium-sized Italian eggplants are used in the Turkish version
7-9 cloves of garlic
Juice of ½ lemon
6-8 tbsps. olive oil, depending on the eggplant’s size
Sea salt and black Malabar pepper to taste
1 tsp. sugar
Olive oil to fry the eggplants
Chopped flat leaf parsley, divided
Method:
At each Asian eggplant, cut a slit along the length, without cutting through to the skin on the opposite side, and leave 1/2″ uncut at either end. (If using Italian eggplant, halve the eggplant and slit the meat of each half). Sprinkle the salt (this will help the moisture and bitter juice to come out) over the eggplants, and lay them on paper towels for about 15 minutes to leach out the usually bitter liquid. Thoroughly drain and pat dry the eggplants with a paper towel to get rid of the moisture.
Heat about ½ inch of olive oil in a deep-sided frying pan or a sauteuse. Place the eggplants in the oil, and shallow fry them quickly on all sides until they are softened and a light brown/purple color, for about 3-5 minutes. Pull them from the frying pan, and let them cool a bit so that they can be easily handled for the next step.
(Optional) If you have access to a wood or charcoal burning grill, lightly cook the eggplants on the grill first until the skin starts to wrinkle and then fry. This will give the eggplant a smokey taste.
Prepare the filling. Stir the sliced onions and whole, halved, or diced garlic cloves in a bowl. Add 4 tablespoons of olive oil, salt, and ground black pepper to taste. Knead the mixture with your hands for the seasonings to blend well (this will also help the onions to soften). Stir in the chopped tomatoes and half the parsley, and combine well.
Lift the eggplants to a chopping board, and open up the split in the middle to create a pocket. Spoon the filling mixture into these pockets, packing it in tightly so that all of the filling is used up (if you have any left over, sprinkle it over the eggplants).
Place the stuffed eggplants side by side in a wide, heavy pan. Mix the remaining olive oil with 3/4 cup water, lemon juice, and sugar, and pour it over the eggplants.
Cover the pan with a lid, and place it over medium heat to get the oil hot and create some steam. Or you could cook the stuffed eggplants in a hot oven as my mother did. Once the cooking liquid is hot, cook the eggplants for about 45-50 minutes. Once cooked, they should be soft and tender, with only olive oil left at the bottom of the pan.
Leave the eggplants to cool in the pan for the flavors to settle. Then, carefully transfer them to a serving dish, and spoon the oil from the pan over them. Serve at room temperature or cold with a wedge of lemon on the side and the balance of the chopped parsley as a garnish.
July, August, and September are the best months for cooking this dish, but if you can find fresh eggplants during the rest of the year, do cook this delightful meal at any time. Choose eggplants with smooth, shiny skin, having no blemishes or bruises. Wrinkled skin is an indication of age, and the fruit would be very bitter. Asian eggplants have fewer seeds, thinner skin, and tend to be sweeter, tenderer, and less bitter than the Italian.
North Staffordshire is the heart of the celebrated English pottery industry. The decorative European porcelain industry started in the late 16th century when traders traveling the Silk Road brought back decorated porcelains mostly from Cathay (China) to grace the palaces and tables of royal houses and European aristocracy.
Mainly provided by the Dutch East India Company, porcelain from China and Japan represented wealth, importance, and refined taste. As the competition for prestige between the European monarchies heated up, demand for these decorative products also grew.
King August II of Poland, Elector of Saxony, “invited” Johann Friedrich Böttger, an alchemist who was assisting Ehrenfried Walther von Tschirnhaus (a mathematician and scientist experimenting with producing hard-paste porcelain), to create a factory that would supply decorative items and tableware to the Elector’s palace. In 1709, the Elector established the first European hard-paste porcelain factory by placing Böttger’s laboratory at Albrechtsburg Castle in Meissen. Production started officially in 1710.
Classic Meissen Zwiebelmuster (Blue Onion) setting. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Augustus’s patronage attracted to Meissen some of the finest painters and sculptors throughout Europe as staff artists. The first successful ornamental items had gold decorations applied upon a fired clay body and were finely engraved before they received a second firing at a lower temperature. Multicolor enameled painting imitating Oriental designs was introduced by Johann Gregorius Höroldt in 1723, with an extensive palette of colors in what is now viewed as a fanciful chinoiserie style.
This marked the beginning of the classic, much-desired and collected Meissen porcelain. One of the most popular and collectable Meissen designs, the Blue Onion (Zwiebelmuster) pattern, has been produced since the mid 18th century!
Lest you think industrial espionage is a modern treachery, Samuel Stöltzel, a kiln master at Meissen, stole and sold to Claude Innocentius du Paquier, a minor court official in Vienna, the secret recipe developed by Böttger. By 1717, a competing factory, part of the Viennese Imperial Palace, was set up by du Paquier.
By 1780, about 50 porcelain manufacturers were operating in Europe. Each palace had its own fine porcelain workshop, which is the reason a number of today’s better known brands have “Royal” or “Imperial” as part of their name.
The formation of a solid middle class in Europe, especially in England during the 19th century, expanded the demand for high quality porcelain table settings, decorative items, and crystal to decorate their residences. They were not aristocracy, and they did not have palaces. But they desired to decorate their homes the same way as the upper classes.
Spode Indian Tree plate. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
During the Victorian and Edwardian eras, the demand for decorative items and elaborately designed homeware continued to grow. Numerous entrepreneurs opened porcelain factories and decorating workshops in the Stoke-on-Trent area, where clay, sand, wood, coal, and other source materials were readily available.
Numerous well-regarded artists and artisans were hired to create forms and designs, and by the early 20th century, there were more than 100 factories and workshops operating in towns around Stock-on-Trent. While a number of the better producers are no longer in business and exist today only as antique collectibles or brands produced by other factories (Royal Doulton, Minton, Meakin, Royal Worcester, Spode Copeland, etc.), others still operate there and create exceptionally beautiful products.
Wedgewood Museum Portland vase. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
As part of our visit to “The Potteries,” as the area centered on Stoke-on-Trent is still known, we visited the Josiah Wedgwood & Sons factory that opened a museum on the Wedgwood Barlaston campus in late 2008. Wedgwood is now part of the Waterford, Wedgwood, and Royal Doulton (WWRD) Group currently owned by Fiskars Corporation, a Finnish company that owns exceptional porcelain and crystal producers Arabia, Iittala, Royal Copenhagen, and all the WWRD associated brands.
Thanks to meticulous production and design notes, and samples that the Wedgwood family and the factory managers retained throughout the years, the museum now houses a very impressive collection from very early products created in the 1800s to the latest designs.
The Barlaston campus also contains the present-day factory where decorative items, homeware, and jewelry are still created by skilled artisans based on techniques and craftsmanship developed in the mid-18th century.
Wedgewood Museum exterior. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
We arrived late from London on a Friday and only had sufficient time to visit the museum and no time to do the factory tour that is one of the most interesting parts of a visit. (I did that tour 8 years ago.) If you are interested in iconic premium dinnerware or porcelain decorative items, a guided tour of the factory and a visit to the on-site shop are indeed musts.
But hard-paste porcelain is only one of the bases upon which decorative items are produced. Clay-based pottery, thicker and non translucent compared to decorative china, but handsomely adorned and then glazed over, can also be used as a base to create delightful and very collectible decorative products.
Moorcroft decorator at work. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The highlight of our Stoke-on-Trent trip was a visit to another, little-known producer of very collectible pottery art, W. Moorcroft.
Moorcroft is a “creator of art pottery, fiercely independent, small and almost alone in its pursuit of quality at the highest level” to quote their promotional material. They have been creating exceptional collectible art pieces for more than a century.
The company was originally founded as a design studio in 1897 within a larger ceramics company, James Macintyre & Co. Designs came from 24-year-old William Moorcroft, who personalized each piece of pottery with his own signature. In 1912, Moorcroft moved his staff to his own factory in the town of Burslem, where Moorcroft pottery is still made today.
Money to start the new company came from Liberty of London, and Liberty continued to control Moorcroft until 1962. W. Moorcroft Ltd. is now controlled by the Edwards family and has been since 1993.
Catherine Gage is Director of Marketing and Publicity, and she was at hand to guide us through the workshop and studio. Every piece is hand-decorated from start to finish and signed. It is an amazing process that can be seen by appointment.
Moorcroft designer at work. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
It is a fascinating view into a bygone time before assembly line production and the use of pre-printed image transfers. The production technique is unique and is reminiscent of a vividly colored cloisonné piece, but made out of clay. Many of the designs are in an Art Nouveau style and are created in limited and/or numbered small-production editions. While every item is a valued and valuable piece of art, it also sadly means that each design has a limited life. We met four of the five current full-time designers and two of the three part-time designers.
Bishop Hypericum Golden Jewell. Photo courtesy of W. Moorcroft Ltd.
Rachel Bishop, a very talented artist, is the Senior Designer on the team, and her Art Nouveau styled writhing plants and flowers grace many of the best-selling Moorcroft pieces. Rachel’s arrival brought a resurgence of the complex tubeline designs, a process visually reminiscent of the cloisonné Chinese design process, as she championed the skill of tubelining that William Moorcroft introduced in 1898 with his Florianware designs.
Lovatt Forever England. Photo courtesy of W. Moorcroft Ltd.
Also at the meeting was Vicky Lovatt, another of the talented designers whose clarity of design lines and imaginative use of color makes her work very desirable by Moorcroft collectors. Vicky joined Moorcroft in 1999 as a painter. Many of her designs are floral, though often exotic and unusual.
Bosson’s Queens Choice. Photo courtesy of W. Moorcroft Ltd.
Emma Bossons is the only artist in the studio with a formal fine arts background. Her Queens Choice and Anemone Tribute are vivid examples of exceptional decorative art. Emma’s work has become popular with Moorcroft collectors. She became the youngest female member of the Fellowship of the Royal Society of Arts. When the British Royal Mail produced a series of first day covers to acknowledge Stoke-on-Trent prominent ceramicists, three leading RSA members were chosen – Josiah Wedgwood, Sir Henry Doulton, and Emma Bossons.
Paul Hilditch at Moorcroft. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Paul Hilditch, one of the part-time designers, has an impressive oeuvre of work, and we were fortunate to watch him fashioning one of his creations. Paul’s design style is one of intricacy. He is fascinated by Moorcroft’s tubelining process, and the majority of his designs are easily recognizable, as the surface of each piece is almost fully covered in raised tubelining decorating the entire surface.
Hilditch Memories from My Past. Photo courtesy of W. Moorcroft Ltd.
Time did not allow us to visit any of the other still operating factories. In order to get a good overview during an area visit, give yourself at least four full days for exploring this fascinating industry and its remaining exceptional producers. For more information, contact:
Those Boeing 737 MAX 7 planes again. Boeing actually asked the FAA to allow them to deliver the 737s again despite problems on test flights. It took criticism for them to withdraw the request. I don’t know about you, but this doesn’t instill a lot of confidence in Boeing.
Want to avoid the 737s? Kayak has added a filter that allows you to search for flights that are not using the 737.
A pyramid to be restored. The Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities in Egypt is going to restore granite blocks on the exterior of the smallest of the three pyramids at Giza, but some people think they should leave it alone.
Ever been to one of the world’s most welcoming cities? I haven’t, which surprised me! According to Booking.com’s 12th annual Traveller Review Awards, the 10 most welcoming cities in the world are: Arraial d’Ajuda, Brazil; Ermoupoli, Greece; Viana do Castelo, Portugal; Daylessford, Australia; Grindelwald, Switzerland; Moab, United States; Uzes, France; Mazatlan, Mexico; Jaisalmer, India; and Fujikawaguchiko, Japan.
What about one of the longest flights? I flew from Singapore to Newark in 2008, which was about 18 hours non-stop. Today, the longest flight is from JFK to Singapore at 9,487 miles. Newark to Singapore is next at 9,484 miles. Next is Auckland to Doha at 9,011 miles, followed by London to Perth at 8,988. Last in the top five is Dallas to Melbourne at 8,973 miles.
What was the world’s most visited city in 2023? You might guess Paris or London, but it was Istanbul. They had 20.2 million international visitors, and now that United States and Canadian travelers no longer need a visa, that number will probably only grow this year.
No more Tropicana Las Vegas. The Tropicana in Las Vegas, in existence since 1957, is going to be demolished and a stadium built in its place.
Watch out for hotel scams! The latest is that hackers are actually hacking hotels and stealing reservation information. Then, they send customers emails that look real and contain another payment link. Double-check your emails from hotels and booking websites!
Watch out for new hotel fees, too! Some hotels are starting to charge for parking even if you don’t arrive with a car. I don’t know about you, but I think this is outrageous. If it happens, you can dispute it and refuse to pay it. Most of the time, they will reverse it, but you may have to fight. Best to avoid hotels that pull this on you, so read the fine print.
Do you watch White Lotus? The first season was filmed at the Four Seasons Resort in Maui at Wailea. The second season was filmed at the Four Seasons San Domenico Palace in Taormina, Sicily. Season 3 will be filmed at another Four Seasons, but this time on the island of Koh Samui, Thailand.
The Peninsula, the “Grand Dame of the Far East,” is one of the world’s legendary hotels with an atmosphere of unmatched grandeur and timeless elegance. Completely renovated and refurbished, it has kept the elegance of a bygone era and the tradition of service excellence and combined them with the most up-to-date technological innovations. In the Far East, it has always been considered one of the most prestigious addresses to stay.
The world-famous lobby. Massive leafed columns and potted palm trees where breakfast and afternoon tea are served still shines in 1930s splendor. The suites overlook some of Hong Kong’s most spectacular views, and the ambiance is still serene, no matter how crowded the hotel.
Beef Wellington on the food trolley at Peninsula Hong Kong’s Gaddi’s French Restaurant. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Gaddi’s, the Michelin-starred on-premises French restaurant considered since the 1930s the best restaurant east of the Suez Canal, was unsurpassed as usual, serving classics such as Beef Wellington and now, many more contemporary dishes.
Spring Moon Chinese Restaurant at The Peninsula Hotel, Hong Kong. Photo by Nick A. Ross.
This time, I also tried the hotel’s Spring Moon Chinese Restaurant, also Michelin-noted, and thought it very good. The dim sum offered the most elegant variety of exquisite little dishes, all classics of Cantonese cuisine. The service was professional and discreet, yet not overbearing, and I like the way they handled the food until it was served in front of you.
On arrival, the floor butler presented us with gold-embossed, personalized stationery and bilingual business cards, as well as a selection of full-sized designer bath soaps. We had a personal fax in the suite, and there were multi-line, multi-port telephones all over, plus Wi-Fi access, of course. The bathroom had full-sized bottles of shampoo, conditioner, etc., not the miniature travel sizes offered in most other properties.
A green Rolls Royce at The Peninsula Hotel, Hong Kong. Photo by Nick A. Ross.
The Peninsula has been using its signature green Rolls-Royce vehicles for more than 60 years, beginning with the hotel’s first order for seven Silver Shadows in 1970. That purchase made history as the largest ever single order for Rolls-Royce cars, and over the years, the Peninsula has set new records with each successive order – a trend that continues to this day.
If you need to get to Hong Kong Central, the main business section of Hong Kong, the hotel is a stone’s throw away from the foot of Salisbury Road near the Star Ferry Pier, the location where the frequent ferries that connect Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon), Central, and Wan Chai are located.
The shopping arcade at The Peninsula Hotel, Hong Kong. Photo by Nick A. Ross.
The shopping arcades in the galleries overlooking the lobby are still brimming with authentic luxury merchandise and real antiques. One problem is still prevalent in Hong Kong, however. There are too many knockoffs, and outright fakes fill stores in the Kowloon shopping district. Unless you know your merchandise, it’s very easy to be taken.
Still, the Peninsula is our favorite Hong Kong hotel. The Kowloon location is central and convenient near the Star Ferry, yet is somehow insulated from the din of the city. And we think the addition of the pool and sundeck in the 1990s, the refurbished spa, and the modern helipad on the tower’s roof have made a superb hotel even better, if that’s possible.
The author received a complimentary stay at this hotel, but as always, we are dedicated to giving you unbiased accounts of our experiences. See our Disclosures page for more information.
After flying into Manchester and spending a few days in Shrewsbury near the English/Welsh border, my driver collected me to begin my journey to the land of my father’s forebears in North Wales. My driver could speak fluent Welsh and knew the region intimately.
Soon, the gently rolling green pastures gave way to purple heather-laden mountains rising in the distance. Small clusters of woolly sheep, with the odd black one, roamed freely on the steep mountainsides, seeking as yet undiscovered terrain.
Snowdon National Park. Photo by Dan Struthers and courtesy of Visit Wales.
As the long valley road unfolded, an unexpected brilliant shaft of sunlight burst through the low-lying clouds that hugged the surrounding mountains. The striking ray of light encountered a nearby lake, which responded with a rainbow of bright reflecting colors that delighted my senses.
After our scenic trip through the picturesque countryside, we entered Betws-y-coed, an enchanting small village and gateway to Snowdonia National Park. The cool freshness of the air and the charming stone houses exuded timeless charm. Surrounded by lush greenery and the soothing sounds of the River Conwy, this village felt like a quiet diversion before my real challenge began.
I quickly became immersed in the breathtaking broad valleys and mountain vistas, the beautiful patchwork of heather, and the peace and solitude of unspoiled nature encountered in the heart of Snowdonia National Park.
Within this rugged embrace of the Welsh countryside, this haven for nature enthusiasts soon lifted my spirits with challenging trails and unforgettable experiences.
My Welsh-speaking guide showed me one way to conquer the heights of Snowdon, Wales’s highest peak, by a less-traveled path that captures the solitary grandeur of the mountain range. As the climb to Snowdon awaited me, I took his advice and chose Watkins Pass, known for its rugged beauty and fewer trekkers. The route meandered through ancient forests, babbling streams, and heather-covered hills, creating a symphony of colors and scents that heightened my well-being.
As our small party gained altitude, the scenery changed, and I could see the valley below. Reaching the summit, I felt an accomplishment beyond physical effort. The panoramic views from the top of Snowdon are impressive, with views of the rolling landscape of North Wales, the shimmering Irish Sea in the distance, and the majestic peaks of the surrounding mountains.
After reaching this challenging peak, my guide recommended a well-deserved and typical Welsh meal in a pub in the charming village of Beddgelert. The pub had a warm and welcoming atmosphere, and I enjoyed hardy food made with local produce. Traditional dishes such as Welsh lamb and leeks provided the perfect solace for my tired muscles and fueled me for the next journey.
At night, I stayed in the charming village of Portmeirion, a place that felt like a whimsical escape from reality. This unique village, located on the banks of the Dwyryd Estuary, began as the brainchild of Sir Bertram Clough Williams-Ellis, CBE, MC, who envisioned a Mediterranean-style resort set against the backdrop of the Welsh countryside. The result is a pastel-hued utopia where Italian architecture and lush gardens blend to create an otherworldly atmosphere.
Hotel Portmeirion. Photo courtesy of Visit Wales.
My evenings at the Hotel Portmeirion became my refuge in North Wales. The hotel’s design reflects the unique style of the village, with panoramic views of the estuary from the elegant rooms. The attention to detail is evident from the carefully selected furnishings to the attentive staff, making me feel like an honored guest of this artistic oasis.
A suite in Hotel Portmeirion. Photo courtesy of Hotel Portmeirion.
My time at the hotel evolved into a perfect blend of relaxation and exploration. The village has countless hidden treasures, including the quirky Gwyllt Woodland Gardens, where exotic plants flourish in a protected area of ancient trees. As I strolled along the carefully maintained paths, I marveled at the juxtaposition of the lush greenery and the vibrant colors of the village.
At the close of the day, I walked along the river estuary as the setting sun painted the sky in shades of pink and gold. The tranquility of my surroundings and the rhythmic lapping of the water against the shore created an exhilarating calm that grounded me. The village glowed with soft light as day turned to night, casting a magical glow on the cobblestone streets.
Dinner at Hotel Portmeirion. Photo courtesy of Visit Wales.
The dining experience at Hotel Portmeirion proved to be a gastronomic delight. The art deco dining room featured a menu that celebrated local produce and showcased the rich flavors of North Wales. I enjoyed sumptuous dinners, as each meal became a culinary journey, with dishes highlighting the region’s culinary traditions while incorporating a modern twist. Attentive service and a welcoming atmosphere made every dining experience even more enjoyable.
Seafood dish at Hotel Portmeirion. Photo by Sebastian Price.
Sample dishes include lavender and black pepper glazed Creedy Carver duck breast, confit leg pomme Anna, Swiss chard, turnip, and charred peach and strawberry and meadowsweet soured cream tart au fine with strawberry marshmallow sorbet for dessert.
I didn’t overlook the hotel’s spa facilities, receiving rejuvenating treatments that contributed to the following day’s activities. The soothing massage and tranquil surroundings perfectly balanced my outdoor adventure, ensuring harmony between mind and body.
As my stay in North Wales drew to its close, I reflected on the fascinating combination of natural wonders and artistic brilliance that makes up this region. The majestic mountains of Snowdonia National Park provided a challenging yet rewarding outdoor playground. At the same time, Hotel Portmeirion offered a luxurious retreat that blended seamlessly with the quirky charm of its surroundings.
A suite in Hotel Portmeirion. Photo courtesy of Hotel Portmeirion.
As it turns out, my journey through North Wales wasn’t just about conquering mountains and indulging in luxury. The passage of time had not dimmed my father’s nostalgic descriptions of the natural beauty, cultural richness, and warm Welsh hospitality. Memories of Snowdonia’s rugged landscape and the Hotel Portmeirion’s unique charm will stay with me forever, reminding me that valid travel is more than just a physical journey but something that may resonate more deeply.
The author of this article was sponsored by Visit Wales but has written an honest and unbiased account of his experiences.
I grew up in Cape Town, South Africa and moved to the United Kingdom in 2009. After the pandemic, I could finally see my retired parents again. But on arriving in Cape Town, I discovered that I had caught COVID-19 and needed to isolate away from my parents and their retirement community. Using a booking app, I found a room at the amazing Noordhoek Village Hotel and stayed until I tested negative.
The Noordhoek Village Hotel is a 4-star boutique luxury hotel at the foot of the Chapman’s Peak scenic drive, only 4 miles from the beach. This hidden gem is perfect for anyone looking for well-located comfort and hospitality away from the usual busy tourist hubs.
Originally inhabited by the Khoi’San, this area of Noordhoek was later established as a farm and named “North Corner” by the Dutch in the 18th century. Today, this small artisanal Cape Town village is a popular spot for artists and writers to meet and work.
Noordhoek Village Hotel is well positioned within a small village of convenient shops and restaurants. While isolating, I could remain separated from everyone while enjoying socially distant drinks on the terrace and working in the courtyard under enormous lemon trees.
Sushi was delivered to my room, and the bar fridge was ample for all the lovely cheeses and sliced meats I found within the village farm shop below. The rooms are large, the beds comfortable, the en suite spacious, and the service impeccable, warm, and welcoming.
A room in the Noordhoek Village Hotel, Cape Town, South Africa. Photo courtesy of Noordhoek Village Hotel.
Noordhoek Village Hotel has three types of rooms: Village View, Courtyard, and Interleading. I stayed in a king-sized Village View room and enjoyed watching the bustling village below, all overseen by Chapman’s Peak. The Courtyard Rooms overlook the lemon tree courtyard, while the Interleading Rooms are perfect for families.
In addition to these 20 rooms, the hotel also offers conference facilities, bespoke function availability, a sushi restaurant, and an excellent wine menu. Other facilities include free wifi, onsite parking, a paid airport shuttle service, a babysitting service, an outdoor swimming pool, a garden area, BBQ facilities, spa and wellness treatment, air conditioning, and access to hiking, horse riding, cycling, and golf.
A room in the Noordhoek Village Hotel, Cape Town, South Africa. Photo courtesy of Noordhoek Village Hotel.
Besides sushi, I had my pick of restaurants, cafes, and coffee shops. The Food Barn is an award-winning restaurant. Franck Dangereux leads it and serves a seasonal and locally-inspired menu. Cafe Roux is a popular and laid-back option for a more casual classic menu. The Toad in the Village is a gastro-pub eatery and a local favorite. Finally, The Village Sushi offers stylish contemporary dining and several sushi platter options.
The Cape Point Vineyards is a 25-minute walk from Noordhoek Village. First established in 1752, Sybrand van der Spuy planted the current vineyards in 1996, and the estate has developed quite a reputation for its Sauvignon Blanc.
Noorhoek’s most famous tourist attraction is Chapman’s Peak Drive, locally known as “Chappies.” It offers incredible sea-cliff views and towering mountains and is a 9-km route that winds its way between Noodhoek and Hout Bay along the Atlantic seaboard.
Chappies was completed in 1922 and built using convict labor. However, it was hampered by bad weather, with washed-away sections from storms, and it closed in 2000. This iconic and incredibly scenic drive has been reopened after being fully upgraded by specialists and made safe through thorough reconstruction.
A room in the Noordhoek Village Hotel, Cape Town, South Africa. Photo courtesy of Noordhoek Village Hotel.
The Noordhoek Village Hotel was a serendipitous find. In contrast to the sad and disappointing situation I found myself in, the hotel offered a quiet, comfortable, and hospitable environment. Although I could not hug my parents, I could sit on a terrace away from them and share a bottle of wine.
Currently, room rates are 1550-1850 South African Rands per night (single room) and 2000-2750 South African Rands per night for a double room, including breakfast. (Check the exchange rates at your time of booking).
