I confess to having bought a cute sock puppet from Pets.com. That’s all I ever bought from them – perhaps one of the reasons why the company eventually went bankrupt.
Pets.com raised $82.5 million in a February 2000 IPO and filed for bankruptcy nine months later. The company spent millions of dollars in advertising and promotion to make the sock puppet, and by extension the company, a famous brand.
During its first fiscal year (February to September 1999), Pets.com had income of $619,000 and spent $11.8 million in advertising. The puppet appeared in 1999 in Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade, was featured on Good Morning America, was advertised with a multimillion dollar buy at the 2000 Super Bowl, and was interviewed by People Magazine. Yet, the dearly paid-for fame was not enough to ensure fortune.
Pets.com’s demise raises a question: Does spending millions on advertising and promotion make a difference in the Web Age as self-serving advertising and promotion companies would have you believe? And what do companies have to do to adapt to “Web Reality”?
There is a simple answer to a very complicated question: Spend Smart!
Looking at branding from the trenches and from the viewpoint of my involvement in marketing for 40 years, I can see the evolution of the art – and I consider branding still an art based mostly on gut feeling and not on focus groups as many of the advertising agencies will now blare.
Forty years ago, branding was the creative thing you did with the logo of the company or the product, or perhaps designing different packaging or creating innovative print and television advertising that expressed the brand’s massage and image. Then in 1981, Al Ries and Jack Trout came up with their “Positioning” theory in a book that dealt with the problems of communicating to a skeptical, media-savvy audience. Then, branding became a battle for the consumer’s mind.
Today, brands are considered the sum total of the positive and negative images people have in their heads about a particular company, a particular brand, or a particular product.
As Jeff Bezos, founder and executive chair of Amazon, said, “A brand for a company is like a reputation for a person. You earn reputation by trying to do hard things well.”
In the past, product information, and especially negative product information, was not easy to discover. Yes, marquee brands regionally suffered if they showed up at a mass retailer in the same space as poor quality merchandise. Or if your brother-in-law bought a car that kept breaking down, you found out. Or if Consumer Reports gave low ratings for an oven, their readers found out about it, and word-of-mouth spread the information.
The web has changed all that. Information about products and companies can be easily found in sites from anywhere in the world. Name-of-company-sucks.com sites have proliferated, and negative information of all kinds from disgruntled employees to product failures is there for all to see on a global scale.
Remember, brands are built on what people are saying about your product and your services, not what you’re saying about your company and your products with advertising and PR releases. Branding is what makes a successful product sell.
Successful businesses rely on effective branding. Manufacturers and other brand originators are starting to recognize that at the time of “instant” communication, they can no longer afford to disregard what happens at the retail floor.
With price as the only point of differentiation, both brand originators and retailers find that there is brand value erosion in the minds of the buyers. When that happens, profit points crumble. Good examples of that are the bankruptcies Pier 1 and Radio Shack – both iconic retailers – and the recent liquidation of another iconic retailer: Bed Bath & Beyond.
Not promoting a brand’s value adds to the general lack of brand loyalty. In the U.S., corporations lose half of their clients every five years and half of their employees every four. If you look at the Fortune 50 in 1993 you will see that 37 of them are no longer in that category 20 years later. And most of them were companies that spent enormous amounts in advertising and promotion.
“If you are not a brand, you are a commodity.” – Philip Kotler, Kellogg School of Management at Northwestern University
Let’s look at the coffee category. Thirty years ago, the most prominent brand in the U.S. market was Maxwell House. For nearly 100 years until the late 1980s, it was the highest-selling coffee brand. Today, the brand is obviously still sold in supermarkets but as a commodity item heavily discounted to maintain sales. What is the dominant premium coffee brand in the mind of the average U.S. consumer?
Starbucks, a company established in 1971 in Seattle. It built its brand not by initially spending huge amounts in advertising (though they do it occasionally now) but with standardized product quality and excellent service in its stores worldwide.
And that brand is unfortunately starting to pale as well. The service quality – especially in large metropolitan areas – has deteriorated, and the consumer is starting to question the value of paying close to $4.75 for a cup of Latte, $5.15 for a Grande Caramel Macchiato and almost $2.50 for a single shot of espresso, all plus tax, which raises the price in metropolitan areas that impose sales tax by 6% to almost 10%.
We tend to think that branding comes first and a company’s success follows. In fact, when you look at successful businesses, whether they exist on or off the internet, you will realize that a quality product comes first, service second. And only when these are in place does the brand evolve into success over a number of years.
“It takes 20 years to build a reputation and five minutes to ruin it. If you think about that, you’ll do things differently.” – Warren Buffett
You can throw as much money as you want into advertising and promotion, as many of the now defunct dot-coms did. You can wall-to-wall the whole Super Bowl commercial time if you want and can afford it. But if the fundamentals are not there – product innovation, product quality, and impeccable service – you will never become prominent in consumers’ minds.
In Madrid’s Plaza de Oriente, across the street from the Royal Palace (Palacio Real) and very near to Madrid’s Royal Theater and Opera House, is a restaurant called Café de Oriente with a long history of excellent food that respects Spain’s culinary tradition, catering to a distinguished clientele. Sometimes, the King of Spain has been seen dining with his guests in one of the private rooms.
Café de Oriente scallops. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
For a long time, it has been the dining venue for the upper classes and Madrid’s intelligentia. Especially in the winter, everyone who’s anyone in Madrid will be found at this restaurant’s bar, eating and drinking at some time or other. Its proximity to the Royal Theater and the Opera and the food’s quality ensure a steady stream of patrons.
Café de Oriente carpaccio. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The eating areas are on 2 levels: the cellar – in what was, I presume, the eatery’s wine storage space in the distant past; and the street level that has the bar and numerous tables in an opulent Belle Époque setting plus private rooms for event dining or to accommodate patrons when the main dining spaces are full.
Café de Oriente cellar dining area. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Outside, on the plaza, there is an outdoor covered space used mostly in the summer for al fresco eating with tables near the restaurant’s entrance. In the winter, that space is heated.
They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and at the bar, you can have drinks and tapas any time of the day till very late at night. There are prix fixe menus for lunch and dinner that are very good. I prefer ordering lunch from the a-la-carte menu to pair with the wine I’m drinking. And most of the time in the early evening before dinner, I have tapas at the bar with an Amontillado or Fino that I drink when I’m in Madrid.
Café de Oriente fried crab. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The food is definitely classic Spanish but with a number of newer dishes showing Mediterranean influences like the chipirones (baby squid) cooked in its own ink. The service is mostly wonderful in the inside areas, but in a few cases (especially in the summer when the outdoor space is very crowded), the service can be harried, slow, and rude. They definitely need more waiters outside when the weather is warm.
Café de Oriente chipirones en su tinta. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
One of the tasty appetizers I love at the Café is a duck liver terrine with smoked eel and caramelized banana, and another is fresh artichokes stuffed with veal cheeks stewed in Armagnac, accompanied by morel mushrooms.
Café de Oriente artichokes. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Main meat courses that I enjoyed very much have been roasted piglet with a beautifully crispy skin, venison loin with chestnut puree and raspberry sauce, as well as lamb shank (similar to an Osso Buco) stewed in red wine, served with marrow, pumpkin puree, and pickled red cabbage. There are also spectacularly cooked fish courses, crispy mullet, and sautéed squid in a garlic and txakoli wine sauce, and cuttlefish in its own ink served with rice and mussels in escabeche.
Café de Oriente Italian-style lamb shank. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
And the desserts are not too shabby either. I loved the tiramisu and the dark chocolate soufflé with tangerine sorbet.
Café de Oriente dessert. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Of course, all dishes are seasonal and change very often, but the ones above have been memorable during visits in the recent past. And the tapas at the bar are unrivaled.
Café de Oriente dessert with fresh fruits. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The wine list is extensive with wines from some of the best Spanish viticulture areas including Priorat, Ribera de Ruedo, Rias Baixas, Penedés, Valdeorras, Rioja and numerous others, mostly long verticals. There are also champagnes and sparkling wines from France; Cava (they carry Juvé & Camps Reserva de la Familia and Segura Viudascavas that I’m partial to) and dry and sweet sherries, Tokajis, Rieslings from Germany, and many other international libations, though the Spanish wines dominate the list.
It is a great place to have tapas at the bar in the evening that are tasty and, all things considered, not that expensive.
On our fourth Viking Cruise – this time on the Rhône River in southern France – we encountered a meteorological phenomenon… rising water!
One would have thought lots of water in a river would be a good thing – better than the lack of water that grounded river cruises in the Danube last year – but one would be wrong! The waters feeding the Rhône River come down from the Swiss Alps and eventually flow into the Mediterranean Sea. Seasonally, volumes of water engorge the Rhône, and this fall, the torrential waters made navigation extremely dangerous.
We had boarded the Viking Heimdal in the picturesque town of Avignon, and there we sat waiting for the water levels to drop. The ship’s cheerful staff led by Captain Richard Scheen quickly adapted to our stationary position.
The novelty of a cruise that was not a cruise gave us time to linger over delicious meals and bond with some of the other passengers. We spent many fun-filled hours sharing stories of previous cruises, and with the notable exception of one honeymooning couple who were on their first cruise, all the other passengers we met were repeat Viking travelers with 3-6 cruises under their belt.
While it was disappointing having to miss some of the exciting excursions the cruise offered and not sailing past the vineyard-covered slopes of the Rhône Valley with its extensive lock system, we did see a few smaller towns that were not on our pre-planned itinerary.
We began with one UNESCO World Heritage Site that was pre-planned… Arles.
We had eagerly anticipated visiting this fabled town that artist Vincent van Gogh literally put on the map. Sadly, it was wishful thinking on my part that on display would be some of the 300 paintings Vincent created during his 15-month residence in Arles. (Maybe even some of Paul Gauguin’s work produced during his tempestuous stay with Vincent.) It seems that both artists’ works can be seen in museums around the world, but none were in Arles during our visit.
Arles Café la Nuit and guide with van Gogh image. Photos by Barbara and Manos Angelakis.
We did view The Café de Nuit, although it has, of course, been electrified since Vincent painted it. But his Yellow House residence had been destroyed during the war and a modern building now stands in its place.
Although Arles was the capital of Roman Gaul and boasts impressive Roman ruins such as Les Arènes, a 20,000-seat amphitheater used today for plays and bullfights, they didn’t make up for the disappointment of not seeing “Vincent” in the city associated with him.
Next day, we visited Avignon. This medieval walled city is a perfect example of the charming towns of southern France that are easily self-navigated with the walking maps Viking provides at each of its stops.
Avignon Cathedral and Pope’s Palace. Photos by Barbara and Manos Angelakis.
Avignon was acquired by the Catholic Church in the 14th century and quickly became the “City of Popes” and a major religious and cultural center. It was eventually home to seven pontiffs living in sybaritic luxury in the massive Palace of the Popes. While the Palace still stands, its opulent furnishings and works of art have long been removed, leaving the massive stone walls bereft of beauty or comfort. One of the Pope’s inner dressing rooms still attest to the sumptuous decorations once displayed throughout.
Pope’s Dressing Room in Palace. Photos by Barbara and Manos Angelakis.
For me, the best part of the tour of Avignon was a visit to the large central market with its distinctive plant-wall exterior. I have been to local markets all over the world that have striven to display their wares attractively, but never have I seen anything to equal the market at Avignon. The center aisle had one wine tasting station after the other, all vying to attract the tourists to taste – and hopefully buy – their products.
Avignon Market exterior. Photos by Barbara and Manos Angelakis.
Since I was not in the market for wine, I circled the aisles as if I was in a museum viewing the works of art on display. The meat, fowl, and fish stalls were artistically displayed, while the cheese, fruit, and vegetable stalls were a maze of color and design. The candy and pastry stalls had long lines of drooling clients waiting to order the tasty tidbits so beautifully presented.
Avignon Market fruit tarts. Photos by Barbara and Manos Angelakis.
When visiting Avignon do not pass up a stop at the market. It will give you a whole new understanding of what real food looks like, rather than the plastic-wrapped pre-packaged items available in U.S. markets.
Viviers is another of the well-preserved medieval towns of the Ardèche region of southern France. It is home to Cathedrale Saint-Vincent de Viviers, the smallest cathedral in France that has been in continuous use since its construction in the 12th century. Located at the top of the hill overlooking the Rhone River, it’s reached by climbing high above the lower town on winding cobblestoned streets – an ascent not for the faint of heart!
Our Viviers home visit. Photos by Barbara and Manos Angelakis.
We opted instead to visit the residence of Vietnamese-born Richard and Maryann Leon, who have made Viviers their home. They purchased a 4,000-square-meter building – half constructed in the 15th century and half in the 18th – and artistically preserved the most charming architectural details, while modernizing the necessary functions for 21th century living. The result is an amazing warren of rooms, corridors, stairways, and indoor and outdoor platforms used as mini-gardens. Their hospitality to visitors included serving delicious homemade brioche, along with what Richard called “Casteneau,” a local home-brew of five parts rosé or white wine with one part chestnut purée.
Pierre Brunel and his wife waiting to perform. Photos by Barbara and Manos Angelakis.
Our group was assigned local guide, Pierre Brunel, an award-winning professional ballroom dancer and self-styled comic. That night Pierre and his lovely wife entertained us on board after dinner with dances popular in France. Pierre introduced each dance with wit and sparkling repartee, giving his wife time to change her outfit, with appropriate accessories, for each number.
The cruise continued with all passengers having to leave the ship early in the morning and catch up with it once it had safely docked upstream. River rules do not permit passengers on board when sailing in such turbulent waters. When the cruise finally ended in Leon, it was a bittersweet farewell to the crew and all the good friends we had met.
The author received a complimentary cruise, but as always, we are dedicated to giving you unbiased accounts of our experiences. See our Disclosures page for more information.
Check out the latest travel news from around the world:
Venice, Italy is set to limit tour groups to 25 people as of June 1st. That’s about half the number of passengers on an average tour bus. The city will also ban loudspeakers.
China Tourism – According to the Chinese Embassy, “Tourist visa applicants within the United States will no longer be required to submit round-trip air ticket booking record, proof of hotel reservation, itinerary or invitation letter.” This simplifies the process for U.S. citizens.
Where do your U.S. dollars go the farthest? According to Afar, it’s Europe, Australia, Peru, Thailand, Mexico, and Vietnam.
Goodbye to reclining seats on planes? Timeout says airlines are starting to do away with them. What do you think about this development? Do you recline, or do you think it’s wrong to recline?
What are the safest airlines? Airline Ratings says these are the top 25 in order: “Air New Zealand, Qantas, Virgin Australia, Etihad Airways, Qatar Airways, Emirates, All Nippon Airways, Finnair, Cathay Pacific Airways, Alaska Airlines, SAS, Korean Air, Singapore Airlines, EVA Air, British Airways, Turkish Airlines, TAP Air Portugal, Lufthansa/Swiss Group, KLM, Japan Airlines, Hawaiian Airlines, American Airlines, Air France, Air Canada Group and United Airlines.”
What’s closed in 2024? Splash Mountain (both in Orlando and Anaheim), my favorite museum in the world – Pergamonmuseum in Berlin (not reopening until 2027 – ouch!), Notre Dame in Paris (scheduled to reopen this December), Smithsonian Castle in Washington DC, Da Vinci’s Vineyard in Milan, the Park Hyatt Hotel in Tokyo (reopening sometime in 2025), and Elephant Trunk Rock in Taiwan.
Bedbug hoax in Greece! People have been posting notices outside apartment buildings in Athens saying that some short-term rentals have bedbugs. But apparently, the notices are false.
There’s a unique joy in sharing culinary delights, especially when it involves baguette slices adorned with authentic caviar, complemented by a glass of effervescent wine — be it Champagne, Prosecco, or Cava — while surrounded by friends and loved ones. This holiday season, thanks to Sturia, a renowned French caviar producer, I had the pleasure of indulging in this very experience alongside my beloved companion and wife of 54 years.
In the wake of overfishing in the 1990s, wild caviar production was suspended from 2007 to the end of 2010 in Russia and a number of the countries that border the Caspian Sea to allow wild stocks to replenish. In 2009, the United Nations banned five countries (including Russia and Iran) from internationally trading caviar because they failed to agree on fishing quotas.
At the time, smuggling of Caspian and Black Sea caviar from Iran, Russia and Azerbaijan to affluent markets around the world reached endemic proportions. The UN ban was lifted late in 2010, when producing countries finally agreed on very strict quotas, but since then efforts to successfully farm sturgeon caviar have been ongoing throughout the world, while the prices for wild caught product of any kind have risen to the stratosphere.
A world famous retailer’s wild caught Ossetra nowadays sells for $160 for a 30 gram tin and a department store in Manhattan sells a very similar product for $123 per ounce. Another, also well known importer retails a 1 oz. glass jar of wild caught Beluga for $175. If you wish to purchase a 1 kilo (2.2 lb) tin, the starting price for genuine Ossetra is over $5,000 and Beluga will set you back $10,000 or more.
Traditionally, the term caviar refers to salt-cured roe from wild sturgeon (Acipenser), a fish family that has not changed since the prehistoric Cretaceous, in other words for over 100 million years. It is the closest that we will ever come to a living dinosaur!In some countries without strict labeling regulation, the term caviar is also loosely used to describe the roe of other fish such as salmon, trout, lumpfish, whitefish, carp, flying fish, and other species; but these are not actual true caviars and, to be honest, the taste of most of these other fish roes is nowhere near the exquisite taste of wild sturgeon eggs.
Sturia Caviar. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
There are many caviar importers and sellers now in the market from sustainable farmed resources but the taste of some of the farmed product has been less than stellar. Through the years I have tasted numerous farmed caviars. I tasted one farmed in Germany which was good tasting but not as great as the wild caught; a few others were farmed in the US (Florida, California and Oregon), and some were farmed in Turkey (Black Sea), Russia and Kazakhstan.
During a Gastronomika visit, I tasted pretty nice farmed caviar from Italy’s Lake Garda and there is even farmed product from China’s Qiandao Lake. Much of the farmed product in the market looks like Beluga, Ossetra or Sevruga in size but has a slightly metallic aftertaste, or is too salty from being processed with too much sea salt to cover the off taste. The Chinese product named Kaluga Hybrid looked and tasted as if it was dipped in heavy brown motor oil but the Kaluga Queen was lighter and tastier. Pressed non-sturgeon fish egg sacks covered in wax might be nice, like the Greek Avgotaraho and the Italian Botarga, but the taste is sharper and completely different.
I have recently discovered farmed caviar from France that looks and actually tastes like wild sturgeon roe.
The brand name is Sturia, from the breeder/producer/refiner Caviar Sturia of Bordeaux, and it comes from different fish varieties such as Acipencer Baerii (Siberian Sturgeon), Acipencer Gueldenstaedtii, and Huso Huso, the sturgeon where the Beluga caviar comes from. The two Sturia samples I tasted were Vintage and Oscietra (Ossetra) and they sell a large number of other grades depending on the size of the grain and the length of ageing. The above mentioned were the ones me and my wife tasted in 50 gram tins. The retail price was very competitive.
We tasted the caviars using fresh rounds of baguette, sweet butter and, occasionally, a squeeze of lemon. The caviar was spooned onto the buttered baguette slices with traditional mother-of-pearl implements I bought during a trip to Hawaii many years ago.
These recent samples did taste as if they came from fish caught in the wild. The Vintage, the least expensive, tasted a little like pressed caviar; it was very dark grey, mild, with a slightly fishy aftertaste. After a few drops of lemon juice, it tasted exactly like wild-caught pressed caviar from the Caspian. The Oscietra, was a bit saltier but tasted great, with the nutty and buttery taste that quality aged caviar should have and we devoured it with or without the lemon drops.
The Sturia roe is sold through Kaviar USA, and marketed via 4 distributors. There are also 2 shops that sell directly to the public: Frenchery in San Francisco and PW Cellar in Louisiana
In Europe, they work with several importers specializing in fine food and distributing to restaurants in Germany, Belgium, Scotland, Spain, Greece, Italy, Sweden, Switzerland and The Netherlands .
In Asia, they work with Classic Fine Food in Singapore, Indonesia and HK-Macau; Gourmet One in Thailand, Vietnam and Malaysia; Gourmet Partner in Taiwan; Arcane in Japan; Indoguna in Cambodia; Chef’s Food in Korea and Jiarui in China. And they will work directly with restaurants in countries where they do not have distributors.
We enjoyed the samples very much and washed them down with sparkling Prosecco flutes.
Ever since my early school days and fascination with the groundbreaking scientific discoveries of Charles Darwin, I’ve always harbored a strong desire to embark upon travel to the Galapagos Islands, located six hundred miles off the coast of Ecuador.
These remote islands which offer a unique blend of stark natural beauty, and close encounters with abundant marine wildlife, have captured my attention as well as many other adventurous travelers. I finally had the opportunity to embark on this once-in-a-lifetime journey, exploring the Galapagos Islands aboard a luxury motorized yacht that took me and nine other passengers on an island-hopping adventure.
The M/S Ocean Spray. Photo by Sebastian Price.
Setting Sail for the Galapagos
My journey began with a flight from Quito, the capital of Ecuador to San Cristobal which is one of the main islands in the Galapagos archipelago. On the flight, I encountered most of my fellow passengers who would be sailing on our motor yacht. We all quickly bonded together, eager to set sail and explore the Galapagos Islands, each of us brimming with excitement and anticipation. This group of individuals consisted of a diverse mix of world travelers, bringing interesting perspectives and backgrounds to the trip.
The M/S Ocean Spray from a distance. Photo by Sebastian Price.
Upon arrival at San Cristobal airport, I met our naturalist Javier and two other crew members who took our small group of ten passengers all together to begin our island explorations onboard the luxury motor vessel, Ocean Spray. With our naturalist, Javier, and twelve crew members, this adventure would be with a well-rounded group of individuals all looking forward to having personal encounters with land, and marine wildlife in an unspoiled natural setting.
A sea lion. Photo by Sebastian Price.
Our itinerary promised such a journey through some of the most remarkable islands that make up the Galapagos archipelago. Each island had its unique character and offered a different perspective on the incredible biodiversity of the region.
During the afternoon on the first day, our party went ashore on Los Lobos island and trekked a narrow trail to reach the volcanic-formed rocky shoreline to see wind-hovering frigate birds, grounded blue-footed boobies, and soaring solitary giant albatrosses. Later we reached a sea lion colony located on a small white sandy beach and observed a small seal pup wandering desperately trying to find its mother. The surrounding wildlife seemed so tame and inquisitive but we kept a distance of six feet as a precaution.
A red-footed booby. Photo by Sebastian Price.
On the following day our boat anchored close to Fernandina Island, one of the most pristine and untouched islands in the Galapagos which became another intriguing encounter on our voyage. Here, we encountered colonies of marine iguanas, the only iguanas in the world that have adapted to life in the sea. It became a surreal experience to snorkel alongside these unique creatures as they foraged for algae on the ocean floor. It is one of only two islands to have fresh water but also is noted for its stark beauty and exotic vegetation along the coastal shore.
Flamingos. Photo by Sebastian Price.
I had a wonderful opportunity to observe a small flock of pink flamingos wading in the tranquil still water at sunset. The changing early evening light makes the walk magical while wandering past mangrove trees and hiking to the white sandy beach. I marvel at seeing the fiery Sally Lightfoot crabs scurrying across black lava rock and a large marine iguana warming in the sun near a barren, volcanic outcrop. Yet one of the best moments is seeing a group of stingrays coming almost onshore in search of food.
Sea lions in the Galapagos Islands. Photo by Sebastian Price.
As we explored each island, our comfortable boat provided a sense of intimacy with the natural world around us. We could anchor close to remote coves and beaches, avoiding any crowds that sometimes descend from larger vessels. This further allowed us to immerse ourselves fully in the untouched beauty of the Galapagos.
Snorkeling in an Underwater World of Wonders
One of the main draws of the Galapagos Islands is the incredible marine life that inhabits its waters. Snorkeling here is like entering a surreal underwater wonderland, and every dip beneath the surface holds the promise of a new, awe-inspiring encounter.
One of the most memorable snorkeling experiences on the voyage took place at Kicker Rock, a dramatic rock formation rising out of the sea. After our rubber zodiac boat had cast off from the motor yacht Ocean Spray, I soon began swimming alongside graceful hammerhead sharks, colorful reef fish, and curious sea turtles. It became an adrenaline-pumping adventure that left me in awe of the ocean’s diversity. For those onboard less adventurous, the shallow waters along the nearby sandy inlet also provide an opportunity to snorkel to see colorful reef fish and playful inquisitive seals.
A Galapagos giant tortoise. Photo by Sebastian Price.
Each day brought new opportunities to explore the remarkable underwater realm, and our boat allowed us to reach remote snorkeling sites that larger vessels couldn’t access. The clarity of the water and the sheer diversity of marine life made every day an adventure in itself.
Culinary Delights on the High Seas
While the Galapagos Islands are renowned for sheer natural beauty and diverse wildlife, the culinary experiences on our motorized yacht proved equally outstanding. Our onboard chef worked magic in the galley, creating dishes that surprised and delighted all of us at every meal.
One of our divine meals on the yacht. Photo by Sebastian Price.
Fresh seafood proved to be one of the culinary highlights. It was not uncommon for our chef to prepare the catch of the day, which might include a deliciously grilled grouper, yellowfin tuna, or large prawns, all locally caught. On one occasion I had a delicious local crab dish served with a cool glass or two of chilled Chablis.
Dining on the open deck under the starlit Galapagos sky, with the gentle rocking of the boat, added a touch of magic to each meal.
Conclusion: A Journey Beyond Imagination
Exploring the Galapagos Islands by a luxury motorized boat exceeded all my expectations. The intimate size of our vessel allowed for meaningful connections with fellow travelers and crew members, creating a sense of camaraderie that made the adventure even more special.
The islands themselves, each with their unique landscapes and wildlife, left an indelible mark on my imagination. Snorkeling in the pristine waters of the Galapagos truly became a unique experience, with encounters with hammerhead sharks, sea lions, sea turtles, and marine iguanas etching unforgettable memories into my mind.
Stateroom on the M/S Ocean Spray. Photo by Sebastian Price.
The culinary experiences onboard our yacht added an unexpected layer of luxury to our adventure. Our chef’s talent and creativity turned each meal into a gourmet delight, making our journey truly exceptional.
A deck on the M/S Ocean Spray. Photo by Sebastian Price.
The Galapagos Islands are a natural wonder, a place where time seems to stand still, and the connection between humanity and the natural world is palpable. My journey to these enchanted islands reaffirmed the importance of preserving such pristine ecosystems for future generations to appreciate and cherish.
As I left the Galapagos Islands behind, I carried with me not only the memories of breathtaking landscapes and incredible wildlife but also a renewed sense of responsibility to protect and preserve this fragile paradise. The Galapagos Islands are a gift to the world, and I am grateful to have had the opportunity to explore them on the Ocean Spray, a journey that will forever hold such wonderful memories.
Golden Galapagos Cruises has a fleet of four luxury catamarans including M/S Ocean Spray for wildlife encounters, guided expeditions, and personal adventures to view unique species. Fifteen expeditions can be arranged from four – to fourteen-day trips.
The popular Las Vegas eatery, the Sugar Factory, opened on Manhattan’s corner of 8th Ave. and 44th Street. It is considered an American brasserie with a large confectionary component.
It’s a large, 2-floor restaurant with a bar and tables on the ground floor and the main dining area on the floor above. The entire upper floor was decorated in a very festive Christmas theme, with tinsel and streamers and gold and multicolored glass balls hanging from the ceiling.
The upstairs dining room at the Sugar Factory. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
They have a huge regular menu with all kinds of crowd-pleasers such as burgers, tacos, pasta, stir fries and salads and also a large dessert section and lots and lots of special cocktails, coffees and other drinks.
On the tables, they usually feature a seasonal menu and since the Xmas menu was available I ordered a humongous churros dessert platter featuring two pieces of thick French Toast, a fistful of M&Ms and ribbons of chocolate sauce and a mound of ice cream and whipped cream with the churros stuck into the whipped cream, all covered by colored sugar crystals … a truly delightful holiday extravaganza!
Christmas churros at the Sugar Factory. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The regular menu offers sandwiches, salads, sliders, fajitas and enchiladas, loaded fries, pastas, waffles, grilled and fried dishes and more… a large and diversified menu.
The first thing I will always try to help me determine the culinary prowess of the kitchen is a soup. In this case they offered an onion soup among other possibilities, and I love good onion soup since my days in Paris. The soup was tasty and properly covered by toasted baguette slices and melted cheese put under the grill; comme il faut! The soup was not in the traditional French recipe as it had a smaller amount of the beef broth than what the classic version calls for; however it was still very tasty using an herb broth in addition to the beef and onion one and a good amount of cooked sweet onion. It was a flavorful, comforting starter.
A chicken stir fry at the Sugar Factory. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The sesame chicken stir fry was also quite good with lots of breast of chicken cubes, herbs and green onion slices and some diced pineapple and fried rice all smothered in a brown sauce with an orchid flower crowning the dish.
Chicken enchiladas at the Sugar Factory. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The enchiladas were fine even though the soft tortillas were a bit on the dry side. The filling was tasty with white chicken meat and lots of veggies, featuring sides of refried beans and rice covered by shredded herbs.
The rainbow sliders at the Sugar Factory. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The table next to me ordered the sliders and the waiter delivered 5 on the plate in a rainbow of colors and, according to the couple at the table, they were delicious!
A drink at the Sugar Factory. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
They also ordered one of the specialty drinks that are served in a very large glass with dry ice, when the drink is delivered to the table, the server pours the cocktail over the dry ice and it creates a smokey effect, very spectacular!
The Sugar Factory dining room with Christmas decorations. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The only problem I had was the American coffee… it was thin and watery. Not a particularly great way to finish a very tasty meal! I should have ordered an espresso but I did not see it in the menu until after the American coffee was delivered.
But I quibble. All in all it was a very pleasant evening experience. Flavorful dishes, descent wines and cocktails, what else can one expect?
If you are a lover of art or history, then Arles in South France is definitely a place that should be visited. We recently did, as part of our latest Viking River cruise aboard the Heimdal River Cruise, and Arles was one of the significant Southern French cities we explored. The combination of monumental Roman architecture and Van Gogh’s presence still felt through his numerous paintings of the area, are reasons enough to draw you to this remarkable city.
The Roman obelisk in Arles. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Although Arles was first settled by Greek colonists, it definitely prospered under the Romans. In 43BC the town sided with Julius Caesar over his rival Pompey. As a result, when Caesar became Emperor, Arles was rewarded with a magnificent amphitheater and buildings of a circus, baths and a forum.
La Moisson by Van Gogh. Courtesy Van Gogh Museum, Amsterstam.
In February 1888, Vincent van Gogh arrived in Arles. Before that, he had lived in Paris, where he developed his pioneering postimpressionism style of painting with bold, dramatic impasto brush strokes and vibrant, saturated colors. During the more than fourteen months he spent in Arles, he created a multitude of paintings, most of which are now considered masterpieces of late 19th century art and are exhibited in museums and collections around the world.
Before his move to Arles, Van Gogh had never been to the South. The warm and bright southern light and its effect on color was one of the reasons that made him move to Provençe in February 1888.
Le Pont de Langlois à Arles. Credit Wallraf-Richartz-Museum, Cologne.
Van Gogh’s paintings from Arles are often associated with the color yellow which plays a very prominent role in his masterpieces from that period. “Le Pont de Langlois à Arles, avec dame au parapluie” is one of them; we saw the actual bridge that doesn’t seem to have changed much through the years, except for the lack of the yellow hews of the surrounding area that were absent in real life.
Le Pont de Langlois in Arles. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Since Van Gogh’s era, the passage of time has little changed the luminous quality of the light bathing this fascinating city.
Van Gogh worshipped the Provençal sun and the gold hued light it generated. The sunlight inundates the landscape and enabled him to give his paintings the strong, vibrant colors that he saw in his mind.
The Starry Night over the Rhône by Van Gogh. Credit Musée d’Orsay, Paris.
His night paintings, including “Starry night over the Rhône”, emphasize the importance he placed in capturing the colors of the night sky and the warm coloration of artificial (electric) lighting that was new to Europe at the time. Vincent first started to work on his night scenes during his time in Arles. One of his goals was to paint the night scene without using any black color. He’s mentions that in one of his letters to his brother.
Café Terrace at Night by Van Gogh. Credit Kröller-Müller Museum.
Van Gogh never signed “Café Terrace at Night.” However, he specifically mentioned the painting in three pieces of correspondence; therefore, art historians are confident that he did indeed paint it.
Photo of Le Café la Nuit in Arles. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The exterior of the present day Café la Nuit is now tinted the yellow color of his painting.
While in Arles, Van Gogh also painted his bedroom in the “Yellow House” numerous times. Unfortunately the actual building was bombed during WWII and the current structure looks nothing like what the house he shared with Gauguin did at the time as depicted in his “Yellow House” painting.
Arles amphitheater arcade. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
In October 1888, Gauguin joined Van Gogh in Arles in the house Vincent rented, where Gauguin stayed for just over two months. The two friends lived together: they shared expenses, drank absinthe at the local cafés and painted the same or very similar subjects.
Arles Bedroom by Van Gogh. Credit Van Gogh Museum Amsterdam.
Van Gogh conceived the first of three paintings of the “Bedroom” in October 1888, a month after he moved into the Yellow House. As he wrote to his brother Theo, “It amused me enormously doing this bare interior with a simplicity à la Seurat.
In flat tints, but coarsely brushed in full impasto, the walls pale lilac, the floor in a broken and faded red, the chairs and the bed chrome yellow, the pillows and the sheet very pale lemon green, the bedspread blood-red, the dressing-table orange, the washbasin blue, the window green. I had wished to express utter repose with all these very different tones.”
As we walked around the city of Arles, the presence of the great artist was palpably felt.
Some of the experiences mentioned in this article are based on complimentary stays, meals, or goods.But as always, we are dedicated to giving you unbiased accounts of our experiences. See our Disclosures page for more information.
The visit to Cape Horn, although physically demanding, was doable and exhilarating, and The Drake (waterway that leads to Antarctica) was unusually gentle with us, which gave us false hope that it would be smooth sailing ahead. Never underestimate the gods of wind and water because when we arrived at Yankee Harbor at the Nelson Straight near the South Shetlands (Islands) the next morning, hoping to visit Gentoo penguin colonies, the day dawned foggy with very choppy seas and it was too dangerous to launch the zodiacs.
Undaunted we sailed on to Half-Moon Island to view the Chinstrap penguins, but again the weather thwarted us. On we sailed, seeking a safe harbor. Finally we found Charcot Bay and our first zodiac excursion in the Antarctic Convergence (a marine belt encircling the land mass of Antarctica where cold northward-flowing waters meet the warmer sub-Antarctic waters).
Photo by Barbara Angelakis
The seas were exceptionally rough so kayak and paddle boarding excursions were cancelled but the zodiacs were launched. Climbing down a ladder into a zodiac with waves rising and falling six to eight feet was a tour de force but somehow the staff managed to drop us one at a time into the zodiacs of 9 passengers plus one pilot per. Off we sped, bumping into waves that splashed and drenched us as we powered on toward Tower and Zig Zag Islands.
Along the way, we passed Gentoo penguins frolicking in the water – I liked to think they were showing off for us – but the waves were too heavy to pause the zodiac to photograph them so I resigned myself to enjoy the exhibition while my camera stayed securely tucked away in my dry bag.
As we passed by Tower Island, I spied an ice shelf with a small colony of penguins but again the sea was too angry to get close and we continued fighting the waves for another half hour or so. Finally cold and wet we tried to locate the Ultramarine which had all but disappeared in the heavy fog. Thankful for GPS, we headed towards where the signal indicated the ship was.
When we got close the waves were running so high that the Captain had had to reposition the ship for easier access. That meant all zodiacs had to tread water for some time and then queue to re-board. Our anticipated hour and a half excursion more than doubled before we were next up and by that time the seas were even more treacherous and it took a Herculean effort on behalf of the handlers to get us all safely back on board. While it was far from the enjoyable experience I had anticipated I was still hopeful.
Photo by Barbara Angelakis
My optimism was rewarded. What a difference a day makes. While the sky and the sea were one monochromatic shade of grey, the wind has completely died down providing feathery falling snowflakes a gentle reception and allowing them to gather into clusters forming ice sheets on the face of the water.
We were fortunate to see this phenomenon, which happens only in the early spring when the sheets collide with icebergs calved off the glaciers – some sporting the rich blue of compacted ice from deep within the mother glacier. In a few days, the ice flows will be lost to the warming waters. When water starts to freeze on the ocean it is called “grease ice” which is frozen Frazil Ice. Porridge ice turns into pancake ice and when it gets colder it becomes nilas ice or glassy flat sheets.
Who knew there were so many different classifications for freezing water? But this was not the only bit of spicy information the expedition staff explained to us during their daily lectures. We learned of the mating practices of penguins that have no external sex organs so we can’t tell the sexes apart but thankfully penguins can.
We learned of the topography of the 7th Continent and its political and scientific importance. We learned of intrepid explorers that sailed these seas and the hardships they endured. And we learned so many more factlets (bits of trivia) from the enthusiastic expedition staff about nature and the wildlife of Antarctica, especially how to survive its challenges such as the raging seas we already experienced.
Next day, getting in and out of the zodiacs was much simpler as the loading platform was able to be lowered onto calmer seas and we were no longer required to climb down a ladder buffeted by the waves.
Today, the ride among the ice floats was magical, silent and serene. Again we could not locate a safe landing site but our excursion lasted about two hours and re-entering the ship was accomplished with ease. Once out of heavy boots and divested of life preservers required when riding in zodiacs, we were handed a hot cup of honey ginger tea with a hearty welcome back.
Photo by Barbara Angelakis
Day after day, hour after hour, we watched as the weather engineered a show for us. It is an uncommon feeling to be on a vessel in the middle of an ocean floating in eerie solitude when sky and sea are one; when there is no day and no night; and where one minute the sky is blue and the next you can’t distinguish it from the forever ocean. One day we saw a rainbow.
One night, a passenger spied a pod of minke whales moving past the ship in a sea so clear you could watch them maneuvering playfully under the water. We saw thousands of penguins; many doing mating dances others just doing what penguins do. We saw colonies of identical birds waddling with flippers askew and sometimes advancing on their rotund white bellies or diving into the sea, endlessly entertaining.
Photo by Barbara Angelakis
Every day offered a different adventure. Some days were better than others but all were magical such as the day half of the passengers on the ship donned bathing suits, walked out on the freezing landing platform in a snow squall and took the Arctic plunge. A time honored and hilarious spectacle of human beings flinging themselves into the icy abyss – thankfully fortified with spirits before and after.
Photo by Barbara Angelakis
There was the day the Expedition Leader Shane Evoy and the ship’s Captain broke out of the dense fog and pulled up to our zodiac in the middle of nowhere and handed each one of us a cup of Bailey’s Irish whiskey accompanied by a drinking ditty.
There was the day we walked on the face of the “Unknown Southern Land” for the first time; Antarctica the 7th Continent and raised its flag in our frozen hands. Memories to savor for a lifetime…
The author received a complimentary expedition, but as always, we are dedicated to giving you unbiased accounts of our experiences. See our Disclosures page for more information.
To a Brit, the only thing better than fish ‘n chips is fish ‘n chips with a pint. That’s why Grosvenor F’sh Bar in Norwich, England partnered with The Birdcage across its cobblestone street in the picturesque medieval city in Norfolk. Both businesses are housed in historic buildings at St. Gregory’s Green, Pottergate, in the heart of the well-known Norwich Lanes.
Lauren Gregory, owner of The Birdcage suggested to Christian Motta, one of the owners of Grosvenor F’sh Bar, that customers be allowed to take their fish ‘n chips to the pub. “We only had the downstairs seats, and a lot of people didn’t want to go downstairs because they don’t like being underground,” he says. “Also, a lot of people like to have a drink, and we don’t have a license.”
Both businesses began to promote the exchange, including on social media, and it took off. “We put menus on the tables in The Birdcage, and I advertised The Birdcage in my shop,” Motta says. “We started slowly, but it went so well that we started delivering to The Birdcage, too. People come in to our shop and order, go over to the pub, buy their drink, and we bring their food over. Fridays and Saturdays, the pub is full of people eating fish ‘n chips.”
The Birdcage’s website mentions the collaboration, “Bringing in your own fish ‘n chips is also positively encouraged. Opposite the venue is situated one of the best fish and chip shops in Norfolk, Grosvenor F’sh Bar. They offer a range of traditional fish dishes alongside some quirkier offerings such as a ‘Wacko Taco’ and the brilliant ‘Bass with Sass’.”
Grosvenor F’sh Bar in Norwich, England. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The idea became so popular that the two businesses started a “Fizz ‘n Chips” promotion on Fridays. Customers get a “meal deal” when they buy food at Grosvenor and a glass or small bottle of Prosecco at The Birdcage. They pay for their Fizz ‘n Chips at the pub and bring a ticket to Grosvenor Fish Bar to place their food order. The shop then finds customers in the pub via a numbered receipt.
As a result of the partnership, the pub has become busier and even underwent a redesign to look more like a bistro, taking out some of its booths and adding more tables. Word of mouth spread quickly in town. “People will walk past,” Motta says, “and remark, ‘Oh, that’s the place where you can get your fish ‘n chips and have a drink.’”
