The number one spot to visit in Memphis is, of course, Graceland – Elvis’ home. It’s so much more than his mansion, however, or even his estate. There are several exhibits, restaurants, a theater that holds live concerts, a soundstage, and an exposition center that houses exhibits unrelated to Elvis. When I was there, it had a space exhibit and dinosaur exhibit.
In 2016, Graceland even opened its own hotel near the mansion with shuttles that take guests back and forth. In short, Graceland is an experience all by itself, and you could spend an entire day or two or three exploring.
The mansion itself is actually pretty modest and small compared to Hollywood estates, but it’s fun to walk through. Only the ground floor and basement are accessible to visitors, as Elvis never entertained guests in his rooms upstairs, opting to keep them private for the family.
Living room in Graceland. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I especially loved the first room you see when you walk through the door – a white living room with a white grand piano and stained glass peacocks. Of course, the decor is still very 1970s. There’s also a room where his mother slept, which she designed herself in purple.
Elvis’ mother, Gladys, designed her own purple bedroom in Graceland. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The house also contains many artifacts, including Elvis’ wedding tux and Priscilla’s wedding dress, as well as Elvis’ desk.
In other buildings on the grounds, you’ll find exhibits like Elvis’ influence on others, a museum dedicated to his career, a Growing Up Presley exhibit devoted to Lisa Marie, a Tupelo exhibit about Elvis’ birthplace, and an Elvis in the Army exhibit. There’s a smokehouse restaurant named after his father, Vernon, and a vintage-style diner named after his mother, Gladys.
Elvis’ gold records at Graceland. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
You’ll find a wall lined with his gold records and a big hall with many of his costumes from his iconic jumpsuits to the black leather suit he wore in his “comeback” TV special back in 1968.
The famous leather suit worn by Elvis in his comeback TV special in 1968. Photo by Melanie Votaw
My personal favorite, though, was the building with his cars, boats, and other vehicles like dune buggies, golf carts, and motorcycles. I especially loved seeing his famous pink Cadillac, which he gave to his mom, and his bright red convertible. It’s an amazing collection. Outside, you’ll find a hangar with Elvis’ private planes, one of which is named the Lisa Marie.
Of course, no visit to Graceland is complete without visiting Elvis’ grave alongside the graves of his parents.
After spending hours at Graceland itself, I was treated to a tour of The Guest House, the 450-room hotel that allows Elvis fans to stay nearby his estate. The design of the hotel was personally overseen by Priscilla Presley, so it’s deliciously retro. But it’s also very tasteful.
Lobby of The Guest House – Graceland hotel. Photo by Melanie Votaw
Unlike the estate grounds, where even the benches have Elvis’ face on them, The Guest House doesn’t contain photos of the man. But the light fixtures in the hallways have a subtle EP design under the lights, and some of the chairs in the lobby have a curved back with a point, which is reminiscent of the collars of Elvis’ classic jumpsuits. The Vernon & Gladys suite was my favorite of the rooms I was shown.
The “EP” insignia on the hallway lighting at The Guest House. Photo by Melanie Votaw
Obviously, if you’re an Elvis fan, visiting Graceland is a no-brainer. But even if you aren’t a fan, you’ll no doubt find something to enjoy there. If nothing else, go for the cars. They’ll blow your mind! Scroll below to see more of the photos I took at Graceland and The Guest House.
The Guest House Vernon and Gladys suite named after Elvis’ parents. Photo by Melanie Votaw.The bathroom in the Vernon and Gladys Suite at The Guest House. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Standard guest room at The Guest House. Photo by Melanie Votaw.The graves at Graceland. Photo by Melanie VotawElvis jumpsuits on sale at the Graceland gift shop. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
It’s called The Dolder Grand, and it’s an incomparable example of what made the Swiss “Grand Dame” hotels coveted by royalty and celebrities alike in the 19th and 20th centuries. Now upgraded for the 21st century, with the addition of two modern wings – the Spa Wing and the Golf Wing – behind the original 1899 historic building, The Dolder Grand still maintains the elegance of a bygone day.
The Dolder Grand Hotel entrance. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
On arrival you are greeted like a cherished guest and introduced to the property with the enthusiasm shown by every staff member from the General Manager to the Doorman and everyone in between.
The hotel is located at the edge of the Adlisberg forest, on the side of the mountain overlooking the city of Zürich and its eponymous lake. It is considered a prominent landmark and was pointed out by our city guide as a must-see highlight when visiting Zürich.
One of the main reasons is the extraordinary collection of over 100 paintings and sculptures from some of the most famous artists of the 20th century, many of which actually stayed at the hotel. These works are on display in the gardens, the terraces, the courtyards and throughout the reception and the public spaces and are an open-air museum par excellence.
The art work is so extensive that a computer listing of all the work is available at the Reception for guests to take a guided tour throughout the property. This is a modern art lovers paradise, a 5-star hotel accommodation and museum all in one.
Interior of the Dolder Grand Hotel. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The Dolder Grand is considered a city resort, with 175 rooms and suites and is as prominent today as it was at the end of the 19th century when it first opened. I consider it as the epitome of the famous Swiss hospitality industry and our recent stay there, following our UNIWORLD Rhine & Mosel cruise, confirms my belief that when it comes to hotel management and guest accommodation, the Swiss are still at the top of the game.
Our visit also dispelled the stories I hear about the stodginess of Swiss gastronomy, especially when it comes to the restaurants of some of the 5-star properties. I guess, the Red Guide that gave the hotel’s restaurant and Chef Fine Dining Heiko Nieder two Michelin stars is well aware of the innovative dishes and exceptional service of the dining room, which is simply called “The Restaurant.” But more about our dining experience later.
Dolder Grand junior suite. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
We stayed in one of the junior suits in the modern Spa Wing. It was a large room with floor to ceiling windows and a terrace – perfect for dining el fresco in pleasant weather – with views that overlooked the driveway, golf course, the city and the lake far below. There was a desk as you entered the room, then a semicircular settee with a round glass table and a large flat-screen TV across from the king-size bed. Falenopsis orchids decorated the room and were refreshed daily.
Dolder Grand junior suite bath. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The bathroom was amazing, with a walk-through to the red marble double wash-stand on one side with the toilet and the shower glass-enclosures on the other side. A glass partition led to the water-jet bathtub accessorized with a tray holding bubble bath, candle and a small book of humorous illustrations along with fragrant soaps and gels.
Sculpture at the Dolder Grand. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Opposite the tub was a glass door opening to the terrace with its glorious views and an automated wall control to open or close the curtains and shades as desired. Along the wall was a make-up shelf holding a large sized reversible mirror with daylight lighting attached, perfect for putting on make-up and securing jewelry.
Saltz Restaurant at the Dolder Grand. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
We were escorted to our suite via a glass-walled corridor decorated with art work and luxury items available at the gift shop. The back garden had one of our favorite revolving sculptures, Jean Tinquely’s and Niki de Saint-Phalle’s “Le Monde” seen through the glass walls; the corridor let to an all glass elevator which whisked us from the ground floor to our suite on the third floor.
The hotel has two restaurants: Saltz, a 14 point GaultMillau restaurant is charmingly decorated in a modern fashion. It is a bright airy space open all day. The menu is modern European featuring a number of seasonal dishes. The highlight is breakfast and, on Sunday, brunch with an abundant buffet. In the summer there is an open-air barbecue on the terrace but we were there during the cold months and the barbecue was not in operation.
The restaurant at the Dolder Grand. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Heiko Nieder is the Chef Fine Dining, in charge of the Michelin-starred “The Restaurant” since the property’s reopening in 2008. The Restaurant is open for both lunch and dinner during most of the week, with the exception of Sundays and Mondays. The Restaurant is closed for winter break, from February 19th to March 6th.
The lunch offerings include a 5 course amuse-bouche menu (it is similar to tapas, highlighting successful small dishes created by the kitchen). Plus a 4 or 5-course menu featuring numerous seasonal recipes with or without wine pairings, and an a-la-carte menu.
For dinner, one can select from a 5 or 8 course menu, a vegetarian menu, an a-la-carte menu or a 12 course tasting menu with or without paired wines. And talking about wines: The Restaurant has a selection list of 500 wines that includes rare bottles and some verticals that would delight wine aficionados.
And yes, La Tâche and other Romanée-Conti exceptional wines were there amongst the other noteworthy offerings. Altogether about 1,200 bottles are stored under ideal conditions in the controlled environment of a wine cube, seen as one enters.
Scallops with caviar and cubed tuna at the Dolder Grand restaurant. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
There seemed to be Asian influences in many of the dishes the kitchen creates. Especially tasty were the Radish with blossoms and herbs, the summer role, the Peking duck chips, and the “baked potato.”
Crayfish with Tobiko at the Dolder Grand restaurant. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Spectacular was the Crayfish tail with Tobiko (flying fish) eggs, and the rice role with egg, sea weed and Togarashi.
And the patisserie was not shabby either. Loved the Peanut-caramel bonbon with sea salt and the “fruit stones” were as desirable as the written description was cryptic.
Peanut caramel bonbons and fruit stones at the Dolder Grand restaurant. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Some of the dishes we were offered did not seem to be part of the regular tasting menu and I have no formal description of the dishes. It doesn’t matter… they were as scrumptious as the rest of what was prepared for us.
One more item I should mention. The hotel has a shuttle bus that takes you down the mountain to Zürich’s Old Town, every hour on the hour, or you can take the Dolderbahn funicular just outside the rear of the building which brings one to the bottom Römerhof station, where one can change to a tram or taxi to go into town.
The shuttle ride goes to Bürkliplatz square across the river Limmat over the Queibrücke, from where you can take a taxi or other means of transportation to visit the rest of the city. Or you can explore many of Zürich’s notable churches, guild-houses, museums and other buildings of the Old Town including the Zeughauskeller, a restaurant in a historic armory that serves “typical Swiss-German food” such as grilled sausages, of which they have quite a large selection, served with potato salad and a side dish of sauerkraut, and decent beer. There you can experience indigestible Swiss-German gastronomy at its best!
Thanks to Swiss Air International for their gracious support. For further information on Zürich see www.zuerich.com.
The authors received a complimentary stay at this hotel, but as always, we are dedicated to giving you unbiased accounts of our experiences. See our Disclosures page for more information.
One of the main advantages of visiting cold Oslo, Norway, in winter (on the way to the even colder Tromso in the arctic circle) is that you get to visit the Christmas markets and see all the festive decorations. When I arrived at the Grand Hotel in Oslo, I was greeted by two nutcrackers at the doorway and a Christmas tree and gingerbread replica of the building in the lobby.
Gingerbread house in the lobby of the Grand Hotel. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The name of this hotel is apt. The building dates from 1874 and is indeed “grand” in white and black. Not only did the king and queen of Norway hold events there, but when the Rococo banquet hall was opened in 1894, renowned Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsen was in attendance. The playwright was apparently quite the character and a fixture in the area, visiting the hotel’s café regularly. He even had his own armchair there that was “reserved for Mr. Ibsen.” In 1912, a banquet was held in the Rococo hall for Roald Amundsen upon his return from his South Pole expedition. Today, the hall has a crystal chandelier and green walls with a lacy motif.
Grand Hotel Rococo Ballroom. Photo courtesy of Grand Hotel.
To make my visit in early December even more festive, the hotel was right across the street from an adorable Christmas market. Located on Karl Johans Gate, the main thoroughfare in the city, the hotel couldn’t be more centrally located. You can see the Royal Palace from the door, so it’s well within walking distance, as are lots of shopping, the harbor, National Museum of Art, Akershus Fortress, Norwegian Opera, and Parliament. It’s also near the Nationaltheatret train station, which has a train to take you to and from the airport.
Lobby of the Grand Hotel. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Grand Hotel is a lovely property, but there is one downside that’s uncommon in five-star hotels. There are just a few steps up from the check-in desk to the elevators. There were no bellmen in the lobby, but I understand they will see that your luggage is brought up to your room. I opted to get mine up the stairs on my own, and the check-in clerks quickly offered to help me. So this is a minor issue. Otherwise, everything I experienced there was top-notch. I’m not surprised it was the 2022 winner of the World Travel Awards’ Leading Hotel and Leading Business Hotel in Norway.
My junior suite at the Grand Hotel. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I stayed in a junior suite that included an unusually large living area with a couch, coffee table, desk, Nespresso machine, and tea kettle. Some of these suites include a French balcony. Of course, it also had a safe, minibar, and iron/ironing board, and the bed was very cozy after coming in from the cold. My bathroom had twin sinks, a tub, and a shower. The suite also provided a view of Karl Johans Gate, so I could see the Christmas market and activity down below.
The living room in my suite at the Grand Hotel. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
There are numerous special suites in the hotel, but many of the rooms that aren’t suites also have space for a desk and separate sofa. With more than 50 suites and 275+ rooms, you can’t go wrong with whatever you book there.
Lobby of the Grand Hotel. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I especially appreciated the hotel’s lobby décor, which is a mixture of modern and classic. The Othilia Lobby Bar is fitted with green and purple velvet chairs, marble columns, and glass. The purple and green theme is repeated in some of the other common areas. There’s a rooftop bar as well, which I’m sure is particularly fun in summer.
Grand Hotel rooftop bar. Photo courtesy of Grand Hotel.
The Palmen Restaurant, which offers afternoon tea on the weekends, has a set dinner menu available, as well as a la carte offerings for lunch or dinner. I recommend the butter braised savoy cabbage, caviar veloute, potato espuma, and herb salad for dinner with the white chocolate mousse, cloudberry cream, honey ice cream, and chervil jelly for dessert.
Grand Hotel Palmen Restaurant. Photo courtesy of Grand Hotel.
Grand Hotel has a bridal suite, a spa, a gym, and meeting rooms. Of course, there’s a concierge and parking if you decide to drive. The property has also been awarded sustainability awards, so it’s paying attention to environmental issues while also providing luxury.
When I return to Oslo, I hope to stay at the Grand Hotel again – but maybe next time in spring or summer.
The author of this article received a complimentary stay at this hotel but is dedicated to providing a non-biased assessment of her experience.
“Who’s your favorite blues singer?” Abe Hudson, the owner of Real Delta Tours, LLC, asked me when he picked me up from the Clarksdale, Mississippi Greyhound station.
I paused, but it didn’t take me more than a couple of seconds to definitively say, “Bessie Smith.” Afterward, I barely blinked before Abe pulled up on Sunflower Avenue in front of the Riverside Hotel – the place where Bessie died in 1937. When Bessie was there, it was the G.T. Thomas Afro-American Hospital, as she was turned away from the local white hospital following an injury in a car accident. Eventually, it became one of the only hotels in Mississippi that allowed African-Americans guests. Back in the day, it hosted the likes of Duke Ellington, Ike Turner, and Sonny Boy Williamson II.
A sign in Clarksdale in tribute to blues great Bessie Smith. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
From the Riverside, we were well on our way to exploring the Mississippi Delta Blues Trail – an experience that is both celebratory and sobering due to the gross, government-sanctioned discrimination of the time.
I had just spent a couple of days visiting Memphis but had always wanted to see at least some of the Blues Trail. Since Clarksdale is only 1-1/2 hours from Memphis by bus, I decided to spend a day touring the area. Luckily, Abe was available to give me a colorful and insightful tour.
My guide, Abe Hudson, poses in front of a random cotton field that we passed by during our tour. Photo by Melanie Votaw
When he asked me what I was interested in, I said, “blues history, Civil Rights history, and Tennessee Williams.” Well, Abe did not disappoint. He packed more into our day than I thought could be humanly possible, and he covered all of those bases for me.
First of all, I learned quickly that clutter is the design aesthetic of the “juke joints” and some of the shops in this area. We visited Red’s Lounge, also on Sunflower Avenue, that was lined with junk in a way that I could only describe as “southern cool” (although anti-clutter author Marie Kondo would probably faint at the sight). Even though it was outside of business hours, I got to meet Red. To call him a “character” is an understatement – and I mean that in the best possible way. When asked how many years he’d been running juke joints in Mississippi, he said, “40 ass years.”
Ground Zero Blues Club in Clarksdale, Mississippi. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Then, there’s Ground Zero Blues Club, where Morgan Freeman is part owner, but it’s no swankier from a design perspective. The look of a juke joint has to be cluttered, or it “just ain’t right.” When I entered Ground Zero, so named because Clarksdale was considered “ground zero” for the blues, I was given a Sharpie to write my name somewhere in the club. I chose the rug on the stage, thank you very much.
Writing my name on the stage at Ground Zero Blues Club in Clarksdale, Mississippi.
Equally cluttered, and delightfully so, is the Cat Head Delta Blues & Folk Art Shop, which is a must-see. The memorabilia is literally all over the place. Even though he isn’t a Mississippi native, owner Roger Stolle wrote a book called Hidden History of Mississippi Blues and is a virtual encyclopedia of knowledge on the subject. The Cat Head website will give you the local music calendar and let you know when music festivals are happening in the area.\
Of course, there are numerous markers throughout Clarksdale. Besides the Blues Trail markers, there are Mississippi Freedom Trail markers showing Civil Rights sites, the Mississippi Mound Trail that points out prehistoric archaeological Indian locations, the Mississippi Writers Trail, and the Mississippi Country Music Trail.
Abe took a photo of me in front of the Delta Blues Museum marker.
One of our stops was the Delta Blues Museum. The most intriguing exhibit there consists of the remains of the cabin from Stovall Farms where Muddy Waters lived during his days as a sharecropper and tractor driver. Modest doesn’t begin to describe its open windows and spaces between the logs. It barely passes for a shelter. In 1941, Waters was recorded for the Library of Congress on the shack’s front porch.
The Grammy Museum in Cleveland, Mississippi. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Abe also took me into nearby Cleveland, Mississippi to visit the Grammy Museum, which opened in 2016 by the Cleveland Music Foundation. Many of the exhibits are interactive, such as one in which you can write a new blues song with Keb Mo. Another allows you to try out dance styles over the years. There are also a number of artifacts like dresses worn by Beyonce and Katy Perry.
Another interesting spot on the Blues Trail in Cleveland is St. Peter’s Rock Missionary Baptist Church where Rev. C.I. Franklin once preached. His daughter, Aretha (you just might have heard of her), would go on to become the Queen of Soul.
Dockery Farms in Cleveland, Mississippi. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Also in Cleveland, Dockery Farms is the place where some, including B.B. King, believe the blues was born. Established to produce cotton in 1895, Dockery was a post-Civil War farm that only paid in its own currency. So workers lived on the farm and bought their goods at stores on the farm. It was its own kind of enslavement. Blues pioneer Charley Patton was among those who worked there, and Robert Johnson purportedly learned to play guitar from others at Dockery.
On the Mississippi Freedom Trail, Abe took me to the beautiful memorial garden in Ruleville, which is a tribute to Civil Rights activist Fannie Lou Hamer. In 1962, at age 44, Hamer was fired from her plantation job in punishment for trying to register to vote. She’s most famous for saying, “I am sick and tired of being sick and tired.”
Abe made special arrangements for me to visit the Tennessee Williams Rectory Museum. It doesn’t have regular hours, so you have to call ahead. This is the location of St. George’s Episcopal Church, where playwright Williams’ grandfather Rev. Walter E. Dakin served as rector from 1917-1932. It’s a lovely church with beautiful stained glass windows, so it’s worth a visit.
One of the stained glass windows in St. George’s Episcopal Church in Clarksdale, Mississippi. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
As a child, Williams lived with his grandparents for a period of time in the home next door to the church. It has been painstakingly appointed with appropriate period furniture and artifacts. If you can arrange for a visit, I highly recommend it. And in October each year, Clarksdale is home to a three-day Tennessee Williams Festival. It’s famous for its “Porch Plays” of Williams works performed on area historic porches.
A marker about Tennessee Williams in Clarksdale, that is on the Mississippi Writers Trail. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
While I didn’t go inside, I saw the outside of the Cutrer Mansion in Clarksdale, now a popular place for weddings. It was built in 1916 and served as inspiration for Williams. The lady of the house was named Blanche, and the home was called “Belvoir.” Blanche reportedly threw grand parties at Cutrer. If you’re familiar with Williams’ play, “A Streetcar Named Desire,” you may recall that the main character of Blanche DuBois came from a family home called “Belle Reve.”
The room that Tennessee Williams slept in as a child when he lived with his grandparents in Clarksdale, Mississippi. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The most sobering stop of my day in Mississippi was in Sumner, MS. Here, Abe took me to the courthouse where 14-year-old Emmett Till‘s murderers were exonerated in 1955. While it has been renovated since then, it’s the same building and the same room. I was surprised and distressed to learn that there’s still a Confederate statue outside of the courthouse.
Marker in Sumner, Mississippi about Emmett Till. Photo by Melanie Votaw.The courtroom in Sumner, Mississippi where Emmett Till’s murderers were exonerated – a chilling place to visit. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
My day with Abe was my first time in the state of Mississippi. After this experience, however, it definitely won’t be my last. I hope to see more of the Blues and Freedom Trails in the state and take in the history and cultural character that make Mississippi unique.
Character is everywhere in Clarksdale, Mississippi. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Berlin is a city with a rich history, some of it truly horrific, of course, but it’s also a city of modernity, culture, and energy. It has more than 175 museums, seven symphony orchestras, and three opera houses, besides a vibrant nightlife.
My personal favorite place in Berlin is the Pergamonmuseum. I’ve been to most of the world’s finest museums, but this is still my favorite. It contains huge ancient façades from Babylon, as well as its namesake Pergamon Altar, a Greek temple from 180 BC, among other fantastic antiquities. In short, the collection is unparalleled. These days, I suggest you book your tickets in advance, however, since they may still restrict the number of visitors and sell out.
The Topography of Terrors. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
If it’s your first time in Berlin, you must also visit the World War II and Cold War history sites. They’re sobering, but important. The Topography of Terrors is the most memorable for me. Mostly an outdoor exhibit, it documents the history of the Nazis (without the slightest bit of softening) using mostly photos and newspaper articles from the 1930s and 1940s.
The Wall Museum and Checkpoint Charlie are fascinating and located near the point of crossing between East and West Berlin. You’ll learn about the history of the Berlin Wall, including the people who escaped from East to West during the Cold War.
Checkpoint Charlie. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
You might also want to take in the Germany Spy Museum to learn about military interrogation techniques and code breaking. Then, there’s the Reichstag government building, which offers a 90-minute guided tour. Again, I recommend booking your tickets in advance. And the Jüdisches (Jewish) Museum Berlin, which provides a history of Jews in Germany that’s more of a celebration than a focus on the Holocaust.
There is a memorial to the 6 million Jews who were killed in the Holocaust, which consists of 2,700 concrete blocks. I can’t say I particularly liked this display from an aesthetic point of view, but I certainly applaud its intention and sentiment. Across the street is also a small memorial to the homosexuals persecuted and nearby is a memorial to the Sinti and Roma victims.
Berlin’s famous Tiergarten. Photo by Nick Ross.
These are on the edges of the 520-acre Tiergarten park.
The Neue Synagogue is worth a visit as well. Finished in 1866, it seats more than 3,000. It was damaged during Kristallnacht (the Night of Broken Glass) in 1938 and damaged again by bombing in 1943. Like many landmarks in Germany, it wasn’t restored until the 1980s.
Of course, you’ll want to see the famous Brandenburg Tor (Gate), and I recommend the Humboldt Forum that houses the Ethnological Museum and Asian Art Museum.
Outdoor bowling at the Humboldt Forum. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The day I was there, people were invited to try bowling in the building’s courtyard. I also suggest you visit the famed Berliner Dom (Cathedral). It isn’t that old (built in 1905 and restored from 1982-1993 from WWII damage), but it’s truly stunning, especially inside. Be sure to look up at the beautiful ceiling.
The Berliner Dom cathedral. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I’m also fond of the Musikinstrumenten-Museum and its wonderful collection of musical instruments. If you have children in tow, there’s an interactive Legoland Discovery Center, and if you have teens, you might want to take in the unusual Disgusting Food Museum, complete with tasting opportunities. Berlin also has an admirable zoo and aquarium.
Lobby of Titanic Gendermenmarkt Hotel in Berlin. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
While in the city, I stayed in the 5-star Titanic Gendarmenmarkt Hotel. Centrally located in the Gendarmenmarkt area, it’s a lovely property that I found to be elegant, comfortable, and nearby almost everything I wanted to visit. Many such 5-star properties in Berlin are about the same price as a 4-star hotel in Paris or London. If you want something a bit more unconventional, I’ve read about the Space Night Hostel, where you can sleep in something like a spaceship capsule. That sounds fun, but I’m not one for shared bathrooms. I have barely scratched the surface of all that Berlin has to offer a visitor. You could easily spend a couple of weeks solely in this city and never run out of places to sightsee. If you haven’t been, it’s high time, and try to visit the Pergamonmuseum (but bear in mind that it’s currently closed until spring of 2027)!
What if you could take a walk down Diagon Alley? Well, you can! I did, and it was a thrill. Warner Brothers Studios Studios just outside of central London opened its doors on March 31, 2012 so that fans can experience the world of Harry Potter up close and personal.
Walking down the actual Diagon Alley was the high point of my visit to the Harry Potter sets. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The opening to Dumbledore’s office. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I took the train to a nearby town, and double decker buses were right outside the station waiting to take us to the studio. Once inside the exhibit, we were shown a film in which Daniel Radcliffe, Rupert Grint, and Emma Watson (who played Harry, Ron, and Hermione) talked about the family atmosphere on the set and the great talent of the artisans who created the sets and artifacts we were about to see.
Well, they weren’t kidding. The sets, costumes, props, masks, and animatronics on display were a tribute to the many designers who brought author J.K. Rowling‘s imagination to life. As I walked through the various sets and exhibits, I was continuously inspired by the creativity and skill of these people behind the scenes. Their attention to detail was, without exaggeration, staggering, and everyone involved with the films clearly took great pride in their work. Books were inscribed inside, for example, and each box containing a wand in Olivander’s was carefully created, labeled, and stacked. In Snape’s potions class, dust was deliberately placed on the bottles.
The first set you see during your self-guided tour is the Great Hall where the Hogwarts students ate their meals. It’s just as big as you would expect it to be in real life, and it’s still a “hot set,” which means it’s ready for shooting.
You’ll also see the cupboard under the stairs where Harry slept at his aunt and uncle’s house, the inside of the Burrow where the Weasley family lived, Dumbledore’s office, the Gryffindor boys’ dorm room, Hagrid’s hut, the Ministry of Magic atrium, and more.
Harry Potter costumes. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
While not all of the sets still exist – some were built and torn down, as there’s only so much space on a film studio lot – Warner Brothers has left many intact. These sets and exhibits take up a great deal of room, but the ka-ching factor makes it all worthwhile. They will rake in an unfathomable amount of money from visitors, not just from admission sales but from the gift shop. They sell just about every Harry Potter-esque item you can imagine, from relatively inexpensive chocolate frogs to wands to sweatshirts to games to costume replicas that cost in the neighborhood of $150 U.S. and up. If your pockets are as deep as your love for the world of Hogwarts, you can walk away with just about anything you want.
One of the Wizard’s Chess pieces from “Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone.” Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Artifacts include the life-sized chess pieces from the first film, Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone, the flying car and the giant spider model (Aragog) used in the second film, Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets, and a multitude of costumes, wands, books, brooms, masks for characters like the goblins, and models for characters like the house elves from all of the movies.
You get an idea of the size of the Hogwarts model that was used for some exterior shots when you see the people standing next to it. Still, it’s hardly life-sized. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
For me, one of the most impressive works of art is the model of Hogwarts castle, which was used for many of the exterior shots of the school. The model is miniature but quite large for a model and exquisitely detailed. I walked all around it and took many photographs. In the image above, the people standing below it give you an idea of the scale.
Animatronic Buckbeak that moved a bit in the exhibit, making it easy for both visitors to the set and the actors who made the film to believe the creature is real. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Another of my favorites of the tour is the animatronic creature named Buckbeak, which was featured in the third film, Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban. The beast actually bowed to me as I approached it, and it looked so real that I could have easily convinced myself it was alive. The filmmakers wanted to make it easy for the young actors to believe, and I’m sure they accomplished that goal.
A Privet Drive set. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
On the grounds of the studio lot outside the indoor sets, you will find two buildings from Privet Drive, including the home of Harry’s aunt and uncle. You will also find the Hogwarts bridge, the Knight Bus, the house where Harry’s parents lived and were murdered, and the gravestone where Voldemort attacked Harry in the fourth film, Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire.
The Knight Bus on the Harry Potter set in London. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Gringotts Bank – I loved the eskew facade. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Even with all the wonder around me, Diagon Alley was still by far my favorite. The designers purposely made all of the buildings slightly askew, which gives you a feeling of being off balance. You’ll either hate it or love it (like me). As I strolled down that street (also a hot set), it was like entering a fantasy. All I needed was Daniel Radcliffe to stroll with me, our wands in hand. Of course, in this fantasy, I would also go back in time and become younger to even out our ages. But … ahem … maybe this is a separate fantasy that’s better kept to myself.
The Harry Potter gift shop at Warner Brothers Studios UK. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
After completing the tour, I felt enormously humbled and overwhelmed by the amount of work that went into the films. You could spend hours looking at each item and set closely, but the average amount of time spent on the tour is three hours. If you’re in London and you’re a Harry Potter fan, visiting Warner Brothers for this tour is an absolute must. You won’t be disappointed. You must buy your tickets in advance, however; no tickets are sold on site. Visit the Warner Brothers UK website for tickets and information about how to get there. And while you’re in London, check out Platform 9-3/4, which has been added to King’s Cross train station in honor of the books and movies. There are also several Harry Potter tours in London to take you to different sites where they shot on location.
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) have mobile apps that can help you stay safe when traveling, especially when in developing countries.
TravWell is a fully customizable to do and packing list, along with emergency service phone numbers for every destination. It provides vaccine recommendations for your destination and allows you to store travel documents and a record of your immunizations. Do you know how to pack a travel health kit? You’ll find out with this app.
Can I Eat This? includes authoritative recommendations from the CDC about what’s safe to consume and what isn’t. You select the country you’re in and answer a few simple questions. Then, you’ll get information about how to avoid traveler’s diarrhea.
Just search the titles in the app store on your phone.
On the CDC’s website, you’ll find a wealth of information about healthy travel, such as how to prevent bug bites and the latest information about the Zika virus. It’s an invaluable resource that every international traveler should know about and access. Where are you going next, and how will you avoid getting sick?
(Photo of Center courtesy of the Muhammad Ali Center)
The Muhammad Ali Center had a star-studded opening in November 2005 attended by Brad Pitt, Jim Carrey, and Bill Clinton, among other celebrities. Of course, now that Ali has passed away, the Center will take on even greater significance as part of the legacy for someone who should never be forgotten.
But the Center is about so much more than Ali, and that’s because of the man he was – someone who sincerely wanted to make the world a better place. Billy Crystal has called Ali the greatest man he’s ever known.
Ali was a native of Louisville, and his center is one of the most inspiring places I have ever visited. I’ve been there three times over the years and will go back the next time I’m in the city.
Besides his personal history, it’s devoted to tolerance among religions and races. There are several floors with all sorts of innovative exhibits, one of which is a circular screen showing video on the ceiling. You sit in lounge chairs to watch. One of my favorite exhibits is one that you watch from the floor above, as you look down on a huge video screen that’s contained within a boxing ring. The video shows footage of Ali’s classic fights.
When it opened, the Center included an exhibit donated by Angelina Jolie called “Hope and Dream” with a wall filled with more than 5,000 tiles containing artwork by children from more than 140 countries. There are fun and educational interactive exhibits for kids within the Center that promote admirable qualities, such as dependability, courage, and acceptance, and school groups regularly visit.
There are videos about the civil rights movement and an exhibit where you walk in to a diner and are told “you can’t come in.” It really sends home what it was like for African Americans in the 1960’s. Other videos discuss Ali’s refusal to fight in the Vietnam War, and a wide screen shows video of Ali lighting the Olympic torch in a room filled with different colored Olympic torch light replicas that emerge from the floor. It chokes me up every time I visit that room, watching his hands shake from Parkinson’s Disease as he lights the torch. It has personal significance to me since my mother also had Parkinson’s Disease.
Ali’s Olympic medal and Presidential Medal of Freedom are on display at the Center, as well as most all of his other awards. One of his cars is on display, too. Galleries include a wonderful display of LeRoy Neiman artworks depicting Ali.
Another video includes interviews with African Americans who talk about how Ali’s self-confidence and his willingness to be outspoken gave them more confidence and made them feel that they had the right to speak their minds.
You can’t possibly visit the Center without feeling moved and uplifted, and I think it’s reason enough to visit my hometown of Louisville (although there are plenty of other reasons to visit the city as well). You can make a donation to the Center in memory of Ali by visiting their website at www.alicenter.org. Check out their video below to learn more.
The One Aldwych Hotel in London has a unique restaurant called “Indigo.” It’s the only restaurant I’ve ever heard of, in fact, that serves an entirely gluten-free and dairy-free menu. No, it isn’t vegan. There is meat on the menu, but no gluten and no dairy products. This is perfect for me, as I eat meat but try to avoid the other two. It was a pleasure not having to ask if there was milk or cheese in any of the dishes that interested me.
My dairy-free chocolate mousse and pistachio “ice cream” at Indigo in London. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I haven’t had chocolate mousse in years because I can’t have dairy products, but I was able to have a delicious dairy-free chocolate mousse and pistachio “ice cream” at Indigo without being able to tell they contained no cream or milk. In fact, Indigo’s Executive Chef Dominic Teague cut the gluten and dairy from his menu quietly in the beginning, and diners didn’t even suspect it. The gluten and dairy alternatives used include almond milk, coconut oil, buckwheat flour, olive oil, and rice milk.
Dairy-free watercress soup with poached egg at Indigo in London. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Indigo is located on a mezzanine floor where you can overlook the lobby. My friend and I sat in orange cushioned chairs and enjoyed watching the activity below. The menu includes items like gluten-free, hand-rolled gnocchi and dairy-free watercress soup with poached Burford Brown hen’s egg. Or try the Brixham monkfish braised in lemongrass, coriander, and coconut milk. Of course, the menu is seasonal and changes periodically, but everything we ate was excellent.
My chicken dish at Indigo in London. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The author of this article received a complimentary meal at this restaurant but is dedicated to providing a non-biased assessment of her experience.
In 1992, Mama said “let’s go into the hotel business!” With that declaration, a new concept of museum-hotel was birthed with the opening of Auberge Saint-Antoine, a 5 star luxury property in Québec City, Canada.
The “Mama” is Martha Bate Price, the doyenne of the prominent Price family which for over 200 years has played a significant role in the development of Québec City. William Price was the first to arrive from Wales in 1810.
He was drawn to the abundant untapped resources in the Province of Québec – previously New France – which in 1763 had been acquired (sic) from France. His mission was to supply the Royal Navy with the urgently needed pine logs for their ship masts which, due to Napoleon’s infamous blockade, had cut off traditional sources of supply.
After four generations of success in the lumber industry, the Price family moved on to pulp and paper developing one of the largest mills in the world. All the while, this socially conscious family contributed to the development of Quebec, so much so that William’s grandson – also named William – was knighted after the First World War for his service to Canada and the British Empire; while Sir William’s grandson Tony, was awarded the Order of Canada in 1998 for his lifetime contribution to the country.
Tony’ wife Martha – the above mentioned Mama – along with her three children, Evan, Llewellyn and Lucy – the 6th generation of the Price family – embraced the hospitality industry, initially with a 20 room Auberge (a small inn) created in a 17th century property on the old-harbor site where once ships docked and unloaded their cargos. The building fronts the Saint Lawrence River with awesome views of the Laurentian Mountains in the distance.
In just a few years, in 1996 to be exact, the 18th century James Hunt house was incorporated into the inn and over the years other historical buildings were added such as the 19th century warehouse where once cargo was stored. That building was converted into the hotel’s restaurant, leaving intact many of the atmospheric artifacts of hoist and pulley apparatuses of the original structure.
Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Due to the age and historical significance of the area, before undertaking any construction, archaeologists were brought in to excavate and catalog their findings. On display behind a glass wall in the hotel’s lobby bar Artefact, are the remnants of the old French harbor retaining stone wall along with one of the only two known French canons still existing from the 18th century.
Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Also on display is a canon ball from the same conflict uncovered while excavating the site. While the French were known to build out of stone, the English built out of wood, providing material for the reception desk which was constructed out of the 1820 British wooden dock.
Photo by Manos Angelakis.
This discovery was the first of many artifacts, mostly decorative and household items that currently adorn display showcases distributed all over the museum-hotel. On the wall leading up from the entrance into the lobby are three dioramas that illuminate the footprint of the hotel overlaying the changing site that existed since 1608.
Photo by Manos Angelakis.
In fact so many items were unearthed that a small glass enclosed window next to the doorpost of each guest room displays an artifact with a companion piece located inside. The Price family, understandably proud of their heritage, has made the Auberge Saint-Antoine a living testament to the past while embracing all the modern accoutrements expected in a luxury hotel.
Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Auberge Saint-Antoine is a must-stay hotel for history buffs as well as lovers of contemporary luxury. It is an award-winning boutique hotel and a member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux Group. Currently there are 95 individually themed rooms and suites, each one a delightful surprise, incorporating the three original landmarked buildings into unique configurations with design and decoration overseen by nonagenarian Martha and her daughter Lucy.
Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The dining venues in the hotel are presided over by three co-executive chefs and offer an ample breakfast and dinner with exceptional dishes featuring the bounty of the sea and dale. Since they don’t currently offer lunch at Chez Muffy, the hotel’s main restaurant, an exception was made due to our limited schedule and a three course meal was prepared especially for us with paired wines, so that we could experience the creativity of the culinary team. And we definitely were not disappointed!
Chez Muffy’s crab meat appetizer adorned with radish matchsticks is a culinary masterpiece that tantalizes the taste buds and delights the senses.
Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The large bathrooms offer every modern convenience from heated floors, to large stall rain shower, deep European style bathtubs, smart toilet, large make-up/shaving lighted mirror and a luxury amenity package produced by local artisans. Lush towels along with bathrobes and male and female sized slippers are also provided.
Our room had a comfortable king sized bed, a seating area, safe, a fully stocked Nespresso coffee machine, plus an outside porch reached through French doors with seating overlooking the river. It is a dog-friendly hotel, has a private dining room above the restaurant, a gym and sauna, plus the unusual addition of a 100 seat auditorium.
The hotel is located next to the fascinating Musée de la Civilization and a few steps from the charming cobble-stoned streets Québec is known for, with their old-world French-style buildings, restaurants, shops, the Funicular and/or stairway to the upper town; the area is a photo-op galore.
This privately owned and operated landmark luxury hotel is clearly a family affair with son Llew taking a hands-on approach to running the business and overseeing the handling of the artifacts and antiques uncovered during excavations. This is an ongoing labor of love and a commitment to the history of this extraordinary city.
A major expansion project is already under way with an anticipated opening late in 2025. The hotel will incorporate the historic 1860 building next door to the property and will feature 25 ultra luxury rooms; a full-service destination spa on the ground level; ballrooms and meeting rooms; plus a rooftop restaurant and a boutique featuring Lucy’s award winning shoe and accessory line.
Could far-sighted Mama’s decision back in 1992 have envisioned such an addition to Québec’s hospitality industry… clearly so as after all these years, at the age of 93, she is still involved in the project showing up on a daily basis to make sure all is going according to plan.
The author received a complimentary stay at this hotel, but as always, we are dedicated to giving you unbiased accounts of our experiences. See our Disclosures page for more information.
