At a recent tasting that took place in Manhattan, at Il Gattopardo restaurant on 54 Street, we had a chance to taste some white and red libations from Irpinia, an Italian region near Naples that produces exceptional wines.
The Irpinia name, from the language of a pre-Roman ethnic group that inhabited the region, means “land of the wolf.”
In this tasting there were 6 white and 6 red wines. The whites were from 2 iconic grapes, Fiani d’ Avellino and Greco di Tufo. The reds were also from an iconic regional grape, Aglianico. Both white grapes are ancient Eastern Mediterranean cultivars, probably of Greek or Phoenician origin.
Aglianico grapes are also considered an imported variety, imported to Southern Italy by the ancient Corinthians that had colonized the Avellino province i.e. part of modern day Irpinia, and Northern Sicily. Most of these grapes and their wines can be found in Southern Italian vineyards but are now the most prevalent in Irpinia, Puglia, Basilicata and Campania.
In the past I have written about a couple of the producers that we also tasted this time Feudi di San Gregorio – known for their white Falanghina – and the Donna Chiara. In this tasting we had red Taurasi samples from these two wineries.
The white samples were from 4 recent vintages – 2017, 218, 2020 and 2021. Very nice and, even though the 2020 and 2021 still exhibited youthful exuberance, they were all very pleasant with peach and citrus aromas.
The reds were also from recent vintages; 2014 was the most aged and was almost ready to drink if you don’t mind some acidity – would be good paired with fatty beef dishes. The rest were 2017, 2018, 2019 and 2020. The 2019 and 2020 were nice wines but were too young and in need of further cellaring to be enjoyable. The 2017 and 2018 were still young with a very similar mouthfeel mostly plum, dark fruit and cedar aromas and a medium length finish.
My evaluation for the individual wines:
Villa Raiano, Fiano d’ Avellino 2018. Nice mouthfeel, a bit acidic, nicely aromatic, quite dry.
Case d’ Alto, Fiano d’ Avellino 2017. Well balanced, less acidity than the first wine, citrus aroma predominant.
Tenuta Sarno, Fiano d’ Avellino 2018. Low acidity, highly aromatic with grapefruit and peach aromas, smooth.
Historia Antiqua, Greco di Tufo, 2021. Young, fruit forward, peaches and citrus, beautiful gold color.
Petilia, Greco di Tufo, Quatro Venti 2020. Still very young, pronounced acidity but fine, nice color.
Cantina di Marzo, Greco di Tufo, Vigna Laure Reserva 2020. Still very young with pronounced acidity. Nice finish with lots of minerality.
Where the reds were concerned; the 3 Irpinia Aglianico bottles all showed a similar mouthfeel, very similar aromas and medium finish.
Nativ, Irpinia Aglianico, 2020. Very young, needs cellaring to develop.
Macchia Santa Maria, Irpinia Aglianico 2018. Still young, needs more cellaring. Nice aromas.
Ponterotto, Irpinia Aglianico 2018. Similar to above samples.
Donna Chiara, Taurasi, 2019. Prunes and cherries on the nose, medium finish, still needs to open.
Feudi di San Greegorio, Taurasi 2017. Starting to develop nicely. Black fruit and cigar box on a medium long finish.Fratelli Addimanda, Taurasi 2014. The oldest of the red wines tasted. Black fruit, sandalwood and tobacco on the nose. Slightly elevated acidity. Nice medium finish with cinnamon and pepper dominating. Ready to drink now!
A new generation of winemakers have taken over Greek winemaking, and a good percentage of them is women. According to my thinking, women make better wines, especially when dealing with indigenous grapes, because I believe they have a more sensitive palate than men. So I welcome their participation in Greek winemaking.
I and a few other wine writers had lunch in Manhattan with Sosanna Katsikosta of Acheon Winery to taste her more recent creations; 4 wines created with indigenous grapes; a few of these grapes have been cultivated in the Achaia and Patras areas since time immemorial.
Sosanna has been French trained and further sharpened her craft at Château Margaux (which is still owned and managed by the daughter of Andreas Mentzelopoulos; Andreas befriended me when I lived in France) and Château Latour Martillac.
Photo by Manos Angelakis
There was 1 red wine made of 100% Mavrodaphne (Black Laurel) grapes which has been used in Greece to make sweet sacramental wines; 1 white from a more recent cultivar called Sideritis (meaning made of iron) because the grapes have a very tough skin; a single vineyard wine called Icon R – Skin Contact which is 100% Roditis Fox and, finally Fairytale, a demi-sec wine that Sosanna described as an “orange colored” wine, a deep rosé colored libation.
The vineyards are located on mountainous slopes and are mostly trained “en vaso” i.e. bush trained to withstand the winds that whip the mountainside.
Photo by Manos Angelakis
The wine I enjoyed most was the 100% Sideritis, a lovely, aromatic wine that curiously started as an off-dry wine with the first gulp but when I had it with the first appetizer it seemed to dry up and tasted much drier with the food. To me it tasted almost like a quite dry Riesling from one of the storied vineyards of the Mosel valley. It is a very late ripening grape variety, sensitive to diseases and is relatively resistant to drought. Citrus fruits, white flowers and spicy notes reminiscent of white pepper are characteristics of this wine. It is vinified in “Amphorae” a recent development in the wine industry where the fermentation and ageing take place in clay or stone jars, the ancient way of winemaking, instead of in oak barrels. Amphorae have an advantage over oak because a) they do not give off an oak taste to the wine, that a number of serious wine drinkers are finally starting to object to and b) allow more liquid to evaporate faster, thus concentrating the wine giving it more of the taste of the grape the winemaker vinifies.
I would have liked this wine even more if it had retained a little more sweetness, the way the first gulp tasted. Be that as it may, it was pretty good and paired very well with the octopus dish that was the first appetizer. Most wine drinkers would love it with fish and seafood.
Photo by Manos Angelakis
My second favorite was the Laura Nobile, made from 100% Mavrodaphne grapes. It is a very deep red wine, very dry, with the characteristic taste that I remember since childhood when I was given communion. The vineyards the grapes come from are in Northern Peloponnese near Patras city and the Mavrodaphne grapes have been vinified in the area since the early 18 century. It cut through the fat of the steak topped by a patty of compound butter it was served with. Beautiful.
Photo by Manos Angelakis
Iron R – Skin Contact, was really remarkable for someone that has tasted many wines from all over the world. It comes from a single vineyard; is a dark amber colored wine that is not just a quirky, esoteric outlier meant to appeal to sommeliers. As I mentioned above, it is made from one of the most beloved Greek varietals Roditis Fox, a variety that produces some of the best but much maligned retsina wine. It is dry, not particularly aromatic and will pair well with meze – the small plate version of tapas, very popular in Greece while drinking. It is worth tasting it. I hope it gains wider appeal here in the US because it is a very nice wine when accompanying good food.
Photo by Manos Angelakis
Finally Fairytale, a demi-sec orange colored wine made from 90% Muscat white grapes and 10% Mavrodaphne. Muscat and it’s different clones, Moscato d’Alessandria, Muscat Ottonel, Moscato Giallo a widely planted variety through Northwestern Italy, Muškat žuti from Croatia and Moscato d’Asti planted in the Asti region of Piemonte, is a very popular wine grape along the Mediterranean coasts that has adapted very well to the climatic and soil conditions of the areas it grows. It produces highly aromatic, perfumed sweet wines and very few winemakers vinify it as close to dryness as in this case. Excellent as an aperitif, it will titillate your palate. There are a number of other Greek female winemakers, but I will have to admit that Sosanna’s wines were extremely impressive.
Athens, Greece, is a very desirable tourist destination with millions of travelers arriving each year, especially in the summer months.
Nowadays, there are numerous luxury hotels with some old-line, iconic 5-star properties dotting the center around Syntagma Square, one of the city’s hubs. Other more modern properties are strategically located either near archaeological sites or along the avenue that connects the city center with the seashore neighborhoods.
Greece has a global reputation for hospitality since ancient times, when the god of hospitality was none other than Zeus, the chief deity of the Olympian Pantheon.
The Academias Hotel in Athens, Greece. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The Academias Hotel, Autograph Collection, is one of the newer boutique properties where I spent a couple nights during my recent trip to Athens. It’s located in a repurposed building at the corner of Academias Avenue and Omirou Street. Academias is one of the main thoroughfares that connects the area around Syntagma, the Greek Parliament, and the National Gardens (previously known as the Royal Garden) to the rest of the city’s hubs.
It’s at the edge of the very upscale Kolonaki district, about 4 minutes’ walk from Syntagma. If it was in New York City, it would have been at the equivalent of 6th Avenue in the mid-West 50s. The hotel is also very near (about a city block) where my family’s last office and retail business was located and where I had my office before I came to the U.S.
Actually, during my stay, I visited the storefront, which is now a bar offering Italian food, wines, and beer. I had a glass of Peroni beer for old time’s sake!
One of the things that I should mention is that the hotel has exceptional amenities: a spa, a nice indoor pool, and Symposium – the breakfast restaurant on the 2nd floor.
The staff was friendly and efficient during my stay. The property has 60 rooms and suites, and the bedrooms were spacious and well equipped.
The hotel also gives a nod to the literary history of Greece with quotes engraved or gilded on the walls of the reception and ground floor from such notable minds as Socrates, Plato, Nikos Kazantzakis, and other Greek leading lights.
To quote from Plato: Life must be lived as a play!
From Socrates: I’m not an Athenian or a Greek, but a citizen of the World; also, Wisdom begins in Wonder.
From Kazantzakis: If you disassemble Greece, all that will remain is an olive tree, a grapevine and a ship!
Quotes on the walls of the Academias Hotel in Athens, Greece. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Plato’s, the lounge bar at the entrance of the hotel before reception, was well-stocked with top shelf liquors, including a well-aged Metaxa brandy that I took a snifter of. There are also a number of dishes and noshes available at the bar, including grilled haloumi cheese, burgers, pizza, a nice mushroom risotto, and a number of other items. The hotel was busy but not crowded, perhaps because it was the beginning of October, well after the height of the tourism season.
Plato’s lounge bar at the Academias Hotel, Athens, Greece. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
I was told that they celebrate Christmas and the holidays at Plato’s with a couple of specialty cocktails called The Polar Express and Santa’s Naughty List. They also serve an enhanced festive menu featuring warm Pumpkin Soup, Lamb Chops, and the mouthwatering Crispy Marron with Rum (chestnut with rum) dessert.
One evening, I had dinner at Nyx (the Greek word’s translation is Night) – the rooftop restaurant with excellent Japanese and Asian dishes. It also has a spectacular, though distant, view of the Acropolis over the city’s rooftops.
It’s presided over by Executive Chef Dimitris Kotsalis, one of the younger Greek chefs who was very adept at presenting Asian cuisine.
Food at Nyx Restaurant in the Academias Restaurant, Athens, Greece. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The food at Nyx had a very distinct Japanese tone. I decided to have a branzino dish (lavraki in Greek) that looked and tasted like a South American ceviche, nigiri sushi, and a couple rolls. I was not disappointed. The fish was very fresh and properly cut. The rice balls and rolls were properly formed.
There were numerous hot dishes on the menu, but I love sushi and ceviche. So it was natural that I would order them. I finished with the Crème Brûlée, and I was as happy as a clam!
The holidays are especially festive at Nyx when Chef Kotsalis designs a bespoke 5-course New Year’s Eve dinner featuring duck, lobster, Wagyu dry aged beef, and a Canele Taittinger dessert, marking that meal as the epitome of a celebration of abundance.
The author received a complimentary stay at this hotel, but as always, we are dedicated to giving you unbiased accounts of our experiences. See our Disclosures page for more information.
If you want to get from east to west on the Hawaiian Island of Kauai, you have to drive all the way around the island. There’s one single road that circles this deep green island because much of the terrain consists of mountains and canyons. So there are large portions of Kauai that can’t be seen except from the air.
You can take an airplane ride, but I recommend a helicopter, which has the ability to get closer to the mountains and the waterfalls. We flew through a fairly narrow passage between two mountain peaks, and it was one of the most exciting moments of the ride. We even saw a rainbow over the famed Jurassic Falls, which were used in the original “Jurassic Park” film.
“Jurassic Park” falls in Kauai. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
My ride was with three other women friends, and we all cried from the sheer beauty of it. We are also all well-traveled around the world, yet this experience was one of our all-time favorites. I have visited six continents and almost 50 countries at this point, but I’ve never seen a landscape like Kauai.
So I consider a helicopter ride to be a MUST when you visit this island, and I actually feel that Kauai is a must if you get to Hawaii. It’s considered special for good reason.
There are a number of companies that run helicopter rides on Kauai, which will cost you anywhere from $150 to $450, depending on the outfitter you choose and the time of year of your visit.
If you tend to get motion sickness, try taking Bonine, which I’ve found to be much more effective than Dramamine. Here are some more photos from my memorable helicopter ride over Kauai.
The Hawaiian island of Kauai. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Kauai. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Kauai. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Kauai. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Kauai. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Kauai. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Kauai. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Kauai. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The Corinthia Hotel is a stunning 5-star property right across the street from the River Thames, Whitehall Gardens, and the West End’s Playhouse Theatre. The Victorian building, which was modeled after Parisian architecture, dates back to 1885 and began as the Hotel Metropole. Then, the government took over the building and used it for Ministry of Defense offices.
The original Hotel Metropole played a large role in London’s debutante season, and during the building’s government office days, rumor has it that room 801 held the government’s records of UFO sightings.
The building has been the Corinthia since 2011, when it was restored and renovated. Besides the exterior, the renovations preserved the window frames, columns, ceiling decoration, and stair banisters. To call the hotel “grand” is an understatement.
When you walk in, the Lobby Lounge and inner foyer areas are vast. The chandelier, created by Parisian designer Chafik Gasmi, was produced by Baccarat with 1,001 crystals. The Lobby Lounge serves afternoon tea, which includes bespoke blends of teas created especially for the Corinthia.
There is an in-house florist that supplies fresh flowers throughout the property, and there are two restaurants, a spa, and a musically inspired cocktail bar called Bassoon, which has a 7-meter-long piano that forms the top of the bar. Bassoon’s décor is inspired by a 1920’s art deco music room.
My suite at the Corinthia Hotel in London. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
While Hotel Metropole contained 600 rooms, Corinthia contains just 294, all of which are spacious. Today’s travelers expect larger accommodations than in years past, so 40 of the 294 are suites and 7 are penthouses. Some of these have two stories, private elevators and terraces, fireplaces, and historic turrets. The hotel’s website includes convenient videos of the different room types to help you decide which one you prefer.
I had a Deluxe Junior Suite, which – at 700 square feet – was larger than many New York apartments. I had a chaise, couch, table and chairs, and a Nespresso machine in the bedroom. There was also a Juliette balcony that offered a view of the Courtyard.
Of course, the suite included a safe, minibar, and media hub, and the TV had 75 international channels. WiFi was complimentary. There were bedside buttons to control the lights, which included options for a reading light, night light, or mood lighting.
Beside buttons at the Corinthia. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Opposite the king bed (with a Hypnos mattress) was the television. To its right, a foyer at the entrance door led to a walk-in closet that contained motion sensor lighting and enough storage space for practically my entire wardrobe from home.
To the left of the TV was the entrance to the bath with two sinks, a heated floor, a large tub with another TV screen in the wall, and a separate shower. The shower had the largest rainshower head I’ve ever seen. It really did almost feel like standing outside in the rain.
My bathroom at the Corinthia. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
If you want the full lavish treatment, you can opt for the hotel’s “Suite Life” package that includes a bottle of champagne, butler service, airport transport, use of the hotel car, a tour of the Burlington Arcade with a traditional Beadle Guard, and more.
Amenities at the Corinthia. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The Corinthia’s spa uses ESPA products, a very popular company in England. It’s an unusually large facility that spans four floors and has 17 treatment rooms. There’s an indoor pool, vitality pool, sauna, ice fountain, heated beds, private suite and sleep pods, a hair salon, and a gym. They even offer a medical massage.
I experienced a wonderful foot reflexology treatment in the relaxing atmosphere that includes curved walls, ambient fireplaces, leather furniture, and black marble and lacquer.
There are two particularly unusual features at the Corinthia. One is its commissioning of 250 unique artworks that are displayed throughout the property. American Minda Cowling serves as Art Consultant, but the collection celebrates contemporary British artists.
My walk-in closet at the Corinthia. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The second surprising feature is its own Cigar Sommelier, Manu Harit, who is the youngest in the industry to have received The Higher Certificate. The hotel’s Garden Lounge is its cigar lounge, overseen by Harit.
Of course, Corinthia is also frequently used for weddings, conferences, and other events. The “Courtroom” is a space shaped like a crescent that opens onto a sheltered colonnade and The Courtyard for open air events.
The Corinthia has two restaurants – The Northall and Massimo. Massimo serves Italian cuisine, while The Northall serves quintessentially British dishes. I had a meal at The Northall, which is helmed by Executive Chef Garry Hollihead, who has won Michelin stars at three different establishments including L’Escargot.
My bathroom at the Corinthia. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The restaurant has picture windows that provide views of Whitehall Gardens and the Thames, and it has two private dining rooms available for events. The décor includes mirrored panels and burnt orange leather seating.
If you had the idea that the British don’t know how to cook or to eat, you’re mistaken. Using wholly British suppliers, the restaurant focuses on a mix of traditional dishes with contemporary twists. Beef is sourced from The Lake District Farm, fish is brought in from Cornwall, and cheeses are from La Cave.
The menu is seasonal, but I had a scrumptious lamb dish, while my dinner companion had the suckling pig. For dessert, I had sorbets and cookies. Steaks can be ordered with a variety of sauces like blue cheese, port and shallot, or truffle hollandaise. If you want a quintessential British dining experience that’s upscale and well-done, The Northall is the place to go.
Corinthia Hotel London has won awards, and it was easy for me to see why. I recommend it wholeheartedly when you travel to London.
The author received a complimentary stay at this hotel, but as always, we are dedicated to giving you unbiased accounts of our experiences. See our Disclosures page for more information.
I’ve been all over the world, but there are few places I love as much as New Orleans – especially the French Quarter. And The New Orleans Hotel Collection has a number of great properties in the city, including the boutique 4-star Hotel le Marais.
This little gem with 66 rooms doesn’t have the historical architecture you might expect in New Orleans but has a contemporary, funky design instead. The lobby and Vive! bar (which doubles as the breakfast restaurant) are fitted with purple lighting and cozy cushioned chairs in black, red, bold green, and purple.
My room at the Hotel le Marais. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I found the colorful décor cheerful, and the staff matched the friendly mood. I also appreciated the screen in the lobby with information about where to eat and things to do in the area. When I stepped out the door, I was on Bourbon Street in a matter of seconds. Yet, I never heard the noise of the street when I was in my room, which I thought was nothing short of miraculous.
In the courtyard just outside of the lobby is a comfortable lounge for sitting, reading, and eating with cushioned purple chairs and couches alongside a small heated outdoor saltwater pool. With New Orleans’ climate, you can enjoy this outdoor area almost year-round. I was there in August when it tends to be uncomfortably hot in the city, but with the trees there for shade, it was quite pleasant to sit in the courtyard – especially in the early morning hours.
The Hotel le Marais entrance. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Most of the hotel’s rooms aren’t large, but I had all the comforts I needed – a desk, a 42-inch flatscreen TV, a bathrobe, top-notch linens, an in-room safe, a makeup mirror, a coffee maker, an iPod docking station, and my favorites – complimentary WiFi and bottled water. And you get a card for a free drink at the bar when you check in.
The breakfast is called “continental,” but it was better than any continental breakfast I’d had elsewhere, which I tend to think of as just pastries and drinks. Hotel le Marais’ breakfast included bacon and scrambled eggs, as well as the expected breads, pastries, cereals, juices, and coffee. At 5:00 p.m., the area where you had breakfast turns into Vive! Bar Happy Hour with signature cocktails and house wines.
The Vive Bar at Hotel le Marais. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Even though the hotel is small, it has a fitness room, boardroom for meetings, business center, laundry service, valet parking, and in-room services from a nearby spa. Pets aren’t allowed, but the hotel is 100% non-smoking. So you never have to worry about getting put in a smoking room by mistake.
Hotel le Marais is too small for its own restaurant, but honestly, you’re in the French Quarter. There’s a restaurant right next door and some of the city’s best chefs are no more than a few steps away. You really don’t need room service in this area either. Just step out, and you’re in the middle of everything at this location. Then, return in the evening for a welcome haven from the street noise.
The author received a complimentary stay at this hotel, but as always, we are dedicated to giving you unbiased accounts of our experiences. See our Disclosures page for more information.
The Hilton is one of my favorite places to stay in Quebec City. It’s very near the historical section, and it has simply spectacular views from its top floor executive lounge. So if you stay there, I’d say it’s a must to spring for an executive floor room, where you’ll have your own view, as well as access to the lounge.
And that lounge is spacious with complimentary snacks and drinks. You can read or spend time on your computer (or the complimentary computers provided), or you can do as I did – just stare out of the panoramic windows at the gorgeous city of Quebec. I have now seen the city from this vantage point in both summer and winter, and I have to say that winter was my favorite. (Next up: spring and fall.)
A view of Quebec City’s Winter Carnival from my room at the Hilton. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
From atop the Hilton, I had a bird’s eye view of the Winter Carnival, Le Chateau Frontenac, and the ice floes on the St. Lawrence River. At dusk, it was easy to imagine that I was living in another era as I looked down at the historic buildings with their snow-covered rooftops bathed in the glow of the golden streetlights.
Quebec City at twilight from the Hilton Hotel executive lounge. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Of course, the Hilton also has everything you could want in a 4-star hotel – accessibility, meeting rooms, business center, babysitting services, room service, an on-site convenience store, fitness room, and pool. The property also has two restaurants – Le23 and Allegro. Le23 is on the 23rd floor with those panoramic views and serves lunch and Sunday brunch, while Allegro is where you’ll have breakfast, lunch, or dinner. On Fridays, Allegro has an all-you-can-eat seafood, lobster, and sushi buffet.
Beautiful Quebec City in winter. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
My room was ample with a floor-to-ceiling window, blackout curtains, desk, mini refrigerator, coffee-maker, large flatscreen TV, in-room safe, marble bathroom, bathrobe, and Crabtree and Evelyn bath amenities. It was a comfy place to relax after a day of sightseeing in the cold. If you’re planning to visit Quebec City, I highly recommend the Hilton for top-notch service and amenities. But the number one draw is that can’t-be-beat view. Try not to miss it!
The author received a complimentary stay at this hotel, but as always, we are dedicated to giving you unbiased accounts of our experiences. See our Disclosures page for more information.
Now I know why several people have said to me, “St. Lucia is my favorite Caribbean island.” While all of the islands I have visited are beautiful, the drive from the airport showed me immediately that the land and seascapes of St. Lucia are particularly striking. The pointy Piton Mountains alone are enough to make the place a standout.
I had a chance to try both Anse Chastanet Resort and Jade Mountain Resort – two properties owned by Nick and Karolin Troubetzkoy, who are very hands-on and always working on improvements and new ideas. Anse Chastanet begins on its own beach and extends up into the mountains in levels.
My private infinity pool in my Jade Mountain sanctuary. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Jade Mountain sits above Anse Chastanet’s 600 acres and is even more upscale with views of the Pitons that can only be called spectacular.
My room at Anse Chastanet. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
My spacious room at Anse Chastanet was air conditioned and just steps from the beach, where there was a bar open most all day and evening. I could simply lift the flag on my beach chair and get immediate service. I found myself taking advantage of the different fruit-flavored daiquiris (virgin during the day and not so virgin in the evening) and other specialty cocktails – many of which are made with fresh organic fruit grown by the resort.
Anse Chastanet reception area. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
One of the restaurants, Trou au Diable, is also right on the beach and changes into the Apsara Indian restaurant depending on the night. Climb the stairs or use one of the many courtesy phones on the property (your room does not have a phone) to call for transportation up to the Treehouse Restaurant and bar areas where you checked in.
A bananaquit takes a drink of my orange juice at Anse Chastanet. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Breakfast is served there as well with plenty of local birds around who will gladly take food from your hands (or off your plate.) You will see water guns on the railings surrounding the restaurant if you want to squirt the little squirts away from your food.
Jade Mountain’s walkways. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Anse Chastanet has its own particular charms, but there is no denying that Jade Mountain is special, which is why Conde Nast Traveler readers frequently vote it the top resort in the Caribbean. Most of the rooms called “sanctuaries” have their own enormous infinity pool and only three walls. The fourth “wall” is open and overlooks the sea and the Pitons.
The view from the private infinity pool in my Jade Mountain sanctuary. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
My sanctuary was very large with a balcony, living area, and a few steps up to the toilet, open shower, and Jacuzzi. The resort is so elevated and across the sea from the mountains that you needn’t worry about prying eyes, but since there is no door around the toilet, I suggest only sharing the room with a romantic partner. The ceiling fans make air conditioning unnecessary, and the beds are covered with white mosquito net canopies (as is also the case at Anse Chastanet).
My sanctuary at Jade Mountain. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The Jade Mountain Club restaurant is often voted in lists of the best in the world. The setting is decidedly romantic, which, along with the stunning sanctuaries, is why it’s a popular resort with honeymooners. Everything I ate at Jade Mountain Club and the Anse Chastanet restaurants was excellent. The Troubetzkoys and their staff pay great attention to detail, and they have found top-notch chefs and sommeliers.
A salad at Jade Mountain Club restaurant. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
One of those details has to do with chocolate. Jade Mountain has its own small chocolate laboratory that makes 100% St. Lucian chocolate from tree to chocolate bar. It’s the only place that does this. The resort grows its own cacao trees, harvests the beans, and makes its own bars that consist only of organic cocoa beans, organic sugar (also grown on the island), and perhaps a flavor such as lemongrass or cinnamon. You don’t get fresher chocolate than that!
Dessert at Jade Mountain Club restaurant made from the resort’s homegrown chocolate. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Anything chocolate that you eat at the restaurants from the chocolate croissants at breakfast to the creative dessert presentation I had at Jade Mountain Club comes from the on-site lab. It’s quite impressive, and you can take “from tree to chocolate bar” tours or workshops in which you make your own fudge. The chocolate theme even carries over into the spas, where you can have a chocolate facial, body polish, or mocha massage.
Jade Mountain chocolate bars. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The other tours and excursions to choose from are too numerous to mention, but you can sail, snorkel, dive, kayak, bike, whale watch, zipline, shop, or take part in several other activities. One of the most popular is the “jazzy cruise” held on Thursday evenings to view the sunset from the water while listening to a jazz band. When you want to be pampered, each property has its own spa.
The resorts also have a new bird watching program that takes you all around the island, if you like, with a guide to show you the most beautiful birds on display in the forests. The St. Lucia Parrot is probably the most coveted, along with three hummingbird species. Hummingbirds are readily seen feeding from the flowers at both resorts, but the parrots take a bit more work. You can choose to spend an entire week bird watching or simply add a day or half day to a more diverse itinerary.
My sanctuary at Jade Mountain. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I didn’t find the island to be especially buggy during the time of year of my visit, but Stetson sent me one of their No Fly Zone hats by Dorfman Pacific to try out. I used it during my bird watching excursions in the forests and found that the permethrin insect repellent-treated fabric did a good job of keeping the mosquitos away.
I tried the STC199 model, which has a mesh area around the head for air flow, an all-around brim to protect from the sun, and a piece that can be pulled down to cover the back of the neck. It was cool enough in the heat, and I can’t wait to try it in a malaria zone. The permethrin is supposed to last for 70 washings.
Whether you choose Jade Mountain or Anse Chastanet, you can’t go wrong. You’ll either be swimming in your private infinity pool while looking out at the Caribbean Sea and St. Lucia mountainscape … or sipping a fresh pineapple daiquiri on the beach as you sample a dessert made on site from some of the world’s finest and freshest chocolate. Yes, it really is nirvana.
The author received a complimentary stay at these properties, but as always, we are dedicated to giving you unbiased accounts of our experiences. See our Disclosures page for more information.
