Tulsa, Oklahoma – Indian Culture and Art Deco

I’m well-traveled enough to know that a city like Tulsa, Oklahoma is cosmopolitan, but I admit I had no idea how much culture and history is available in this part of the country.

If you’re like me, you’ll be surprised to learn that Tulsa has one of the largest collections of art deco architecture in the U.S. Even a sign I saw for a dry cleaner was art deco, but my favorite example was the Boston Avenue Methodist Church, a stunning building that caught my imagination during an impromptu stroll.

I spent about 45 minutes circling it to take photographs from different angles and was eventually invited inside. Built in 1929, the building is considered the first example of strictly American church architecture. Unfortunately, there is some dispute as to who actually designed the building.

Then, there’s my favorite museum in Tulsa – the Gilcrease Museum, which houses the most extensive collection of American Indian artifacts I have ever seen. In fact, only about six percent of the collection is ever on view at a time. Oilman and part Creek Indian Thomas Gilcrease (1890-1962) collected the artifacts and created the museum, which is surrounded by acres of gardens.

Besides the Indian art and artifacts, some of which are catalogued on computers and numbered in drawers on the museum’s lower floor, the Gilcrease has numerous Revolutionary and Civil War era treasures such as a letter signed by Thomas Jefferson and original casts of Abraham Lincoln’s face and hand.

Another impressive museum in Tulsa is the Philbrook Museum of Art. While the art collection is stellar, the building itself is something to see. It’s an Italianate Renaissance villa right in the middle of Tulsa with 23 acres of gorgeous gardens. Completed in 1927 for oil magnate Waite Phillips, the 72-room estate was gifted by the family to the city in 1938.

Not far outside of Tulsa are more sites that are not to be missed, including historic Route 66, the Will Rogers Memorial Museum in Claremore, and his beautiful birthplace on Lake Oologah. Built in 1875, Rogers’ childhood house is one of the few remaining examples of an Indian Territory frontier building from before the territory became part of Oklahoma.

Rogers was famous for his funny sayings, for his fancy cowboy rope tricks in vaudeville and early films, and for his Cherokee Indian heritage. He once said, “My ancestors didn’t come over on the Mayflower, but they met the boat.” The details of his life, which ended in a plane crash in 1935, are more interesting than you might think, and the museum includes an actor who plays Rogers, complete with rope tricks.

About 50 miles from Tulsa is Tahlequah, the capitol of the Cherokee Nation. I was very excited to visit this territory. Where else are you likely to see signs in both English and the Cherokee language?

The Cherokee Nation is working hard to educate tourists about their history and culture. I visited the Cherokee National Supreme Court Museum, Oklahoma’s oldest public building, and the Cherokee National Prison Museum. The prison was the only penitentiary in the Indian Territory from 1875 to 1901.

The Cherokee National Museum in Tahlequah, which chronicles the Trail of Tears, is a moving experience. What the various Indian nations endured when they were forced to relocate from the southeast in 1830 is almost impossible to fathom. Thousands of them died of starvation, exposure, or disease as they walked for miles over rough terrain in treacherous weather.

On the grounds of the Cherokee Heritage Center is something called “Ancient Village.” It’s a complete reproduction of an early 1700s Cherokee township. Members of the Nation are on hand in traditional dress to show how to carve arrowheads, for example, or use a blow gun. If you’re traveling with kids, they will absolutely love this.

I stayed in two very different hotels while in Tulsa. The first was the large Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, which was formerly the Cherokee Nation Casino & Resort. The entrance to the hotel features a row of giant, colorful guitar sculptures.

My room, which was decorated in black and white, was luxurious and funky with Indian art and a radio that was playing classic rock when I entered. The hotel contains a large gaming floor, several restaurants, a gym, a pool, and a theater that hosts big name rock bands.

My other hotel was the Ambassador, a lovely historical property near downtown that was built in 1929 as a temporary residence for oil barons while they waited for their mansions to be built. It was constructed by General Patrick Hurley who later became U.S. Ambassador to China.

My room at the Ambassador was very large with all the amenities you would expect of a luxury property. I especially appreciated the expanded vanity area in the bath. The staff was very kind to me during my stay, and they provided me with van transportation, which is available to guests to and from the airport, as well as to nearby destinations.

A completely non-smoking hotel, the Ambassador is also pet-friendly. There are fitness and business centers and a fine restaurant called Chalkboard on the premises.

I simply can’t say enough positive about Tulsa and the nearby Cherokee Nation. If you have the chance to visit this part of the country, do it, especially if you’re a lover of culture and history.