There’s no denying that the once-great secret of Southern European travel is now completely out in the open. Croatia, with its tumbling waterfalls in Plitvice National Park and the fairytale islands of Hvar and Mljet, has emerged from obscurity and onto many “must visit” lists.
Indeed, like its once-mother Venice, the walled fortress town of Dubrovnik is under siege from mass tourism and Adriatic cruises that dump intrepid visitors onto its fairytale streets almost year-round.
However, you don’t have to venture far from the packed cobbles of Dubrovnik to experience a more serene, less bustling spot on the Dalmatian coast that is, arguably, one of the most beautiful places in the Balkans.
The Bay of Kotor was recommended by a local when I expressed my concern at the number of visitors on Dubrovnik’s Stradun, the main street that runs centrally through the old city. The thought of taking a one to one-and-a-half hour car journey (depending on traffic) along the frankly terrifying cliffside road south didn’t sound appealing. But it’s completely worth the peril.
Resembling a fjord (although technically a ria), the Bay of Kotor easily earns the moniker “epic.” With lush green hills perfectly framing glistening clear waters, spotted with cozy hamlets and the odd church tower, the only giveaways that this part of the world isn’t Norway are the terracotta roofs and the Mediterranean climate.
Montenegro, where the Bay of Kotor and the Venetian trading town of Kotor are located, hasn’t quite seen the explosive influx of tourists that Croatia has – for now. The cruise ships still roll in, but for a day excursion or a single overnight only, reducing the pressure on the less-developed local infrastructure.
The result? Quiet beaches free from endless rows of parasols, the charming toll of a bell in the villages and towns that line the shore of the bay, and perhaps best of all, roads that aren’t snarled up with tour buses and foreign drivers unaccustomed to the narrow, winding roads of the Balkans (myself excluded).
The drive to get there was worth the effort alone. The views from the road that snakes around the bay are unmissable, and there are plenty of opportunities to stop off for a photograph or to enjoy a sweet coffee at one of the many villages that are dotted between the border and Kotor.
Although the area isn’t as geared up for tourists as Dubrovnik, Rijeka or the islands of Croatia, you can still indulge. Wealthy Russian visitors turned TIvat, the largest place near the bay, into something of a playground years ago, with caviar on the menu and supercars parked in the streets. There’s even a small airport nearby that is usually lined with private aircraft.
The highlight of any trip to the Bay of Kotor is the eponymous town of Kotor that sits tucked deep in the bay, protected from the elements and marauding Ottomans when the town begged the Venetians to administer and protect in 1420.
The evidence of Venice is ever–present, with gorgeous Romanesque architecture best viewed at Kotor Cathedral and imposing defenses along the town’s coastline and hillsides. You’ll even spot the winged lion and Latin script on some walls and decorative features on older buildings.
It’s the perfect spot to sip coffee or order a plate of seafood, before winding through the streets, trying not to trip over sunbathing cats (the city is famous for them). Fitness fanatics can endure the frequently warm weather and climb the steep hillside above Kotor for an incredible view of the bay, including views of the famous Our Lady of the Rocks.
This medieval church sits on a small island and is easily one of the most beautiful sights in the Balkans, especially on a clear day when reflecting on the water.
Boat tours are available from Kotor, and are highly recommended. The Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks boat tour I took lasted the best part of the day, but would have been worth it even if we didn’t have the chance to disembark and experience a truly untouched piece of history.
Although I didn’t get the chance to stay the night, I was slightly envious of the views from the Conte Hotel & Restaurant by Perast Beach, directly overlooking Our Lady of the Rocks. I imagine the boutique hotels of Herceg Novi or Tivat would offer equally beautiful room views, especially in the evening.
But the best advice I can give is to visit the Bay of Kotor before the Dubrovnik effect really kicks in. Kotor is getting busier by the day, especially as cruises grow in post-pandemic popularity. However, the great news is that you can always just go a little further around the bay, or push a little deeper into the wine-grape hillsides and sleepy villages of Montenegro – especially if you’ve grown used to the two-hands-on-the-wheel driving habits of Southern Europe.
Phil Brown
Phil Brown, based in the UK, is the Founder and Lead Editor of Globelust.com, a travel site dedicated to sharing tips, advice and inspiration for destinations around the world.
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