The soft, silent tread of my snowshoes across open fields felt like a rhythmic pulse against the snow-covered earth. Above me, a tall evergreen spruce forest stood like silent sentinels, its branches heavy with cotton-like bundles of heavy, drooping snow.
In that crisp, invigorating air, I felt a stillness – a comforting quiet that seemed to fix a pleasant moment in time, shielding me temporarily from the frantic pace of the everyday world I had just left behind.
Hamar, Norway. Photo by Stine Karset Broen.
I arrived in Hamar, a town tucked along the shores of Lake Mjøsa, just a 90-minute journey from the bustle of Oslo, via the Vy train. My base was the Scandic Hamar, a centrally located hotel that serves as a perfect jumping-off point for the region’s vast trail network.
It’s there I met my guide, Stine Karset Broen of Karset Activity Farm, a local whose friendly chatter eventually gave way to deeper insights into the Norwegian psyche. She spoke of friluftsliv – the “outdoor life” – not as a hobby, but as a necessity for the inner being.
Stine Karset Broen of Karset Activity Farm. Photo by Sebastian Price.
Later, as we moved deeper into the forest together, the snow revealed delicate, soft tracks of white hares and the purposeful, linear prints of a small fox on the hunt. This quiet frozen expanse instilled a feeling of uplifting connectedness with nature and a contemplative sense of joy.
However, the true heart of my journey lay in Norway’s “national sport”: cross-country skiing. Before this trip, I have to admit my skill level was only “beginner-novice.” The prospect of balancing on two narrow fiberglass strips while navigating undulating terrain felt daunting. Fortunately, I was paired with Amund Hagen Kristiansen, an instructor and guide, who embodies the Norwegian passion for the outdoors.
Ski instructor Amund Hagen Kristiansen. Photo by Sebastian Price.
On my first day, we traveled to a premier ski location near Hamar with miles of perfectly groomed trails. My instructor didn’t just teach me mechanics. He taught me the economy of motion. He provided constructive insights into my posture, correcting my tendency to lean too far back, and offered constant, generous support.
“Think of your skis as a firm connection with the underlying terrain,” he told me. Within hours, the hesitant, unsure movements of a beginner began to take on a sense of purpose and the desire to reach the next stage in mastering this outdoor sport. The encouragement I received that first day became the fuel I needed to tackle the more demanding trails the following day.
On the second day, we moved to a new location that was clearly a local favorite. The atmosphere felt electric with the energy of families with children. As I cautiously surveyed the new terrain, children as young as five, in their carefree and uninhibited way, flew past me at breakneck speed.
Young skiers in Hamar. Photo by Sebastian Price.
Their mastery was humbling. They didn’t think about preconceived personal challenges. They simply overcame any feelings of hesitancy.
Among those gathered to ski, I noticed a group of Ukrainian refugees who had come to learn the sport as well. Watching them, I was struck by the power of the outdoor sporting landscape to act as a neutral ground for healing. They seemed unrestricted and free, if only for those few hours.
While undoubtedly the profound sense of dislocation that follows the horrors of war can be a constant burden that no temporary diversion can fully lift, the rhythmic “kick-and-glide” of the skis seemed to offer them a timely distraction. In the shared struggle of learning to balance on snow, the barriers between “local” and “refugee” appeared to dissolve into a common human experience.
Hamar, Norway. Photo by Sebastian Price.
The physical exertion of cross-country skiing – engaging every muscle group from the core to the calves – demands a significant caloric reward. After our session, we retreated to the dining facilities next to the seasonal rental cabins. During lunchtime, with a warm, cozy fire at our backs, we enjoyed this time shared with a friendly crowd of locals.
We later visited the local downhill ski center, where the air filled with the laughter of parents and children having fun. It was here I realized that Hamar isn’t a place you observe; it’s a place you participate in.
The evenings provided a different kind of relaxation. Returning to the Scandic Hamar restaurant on most evenings, I enjoyed consistently high culinary standards. The kitchen’s dedication to fresh, local produce was evident in every dish.
I still recall the poached fish and grilled scallops – each cooked with a precision that highlighted the quality of the produce. Paired with a selection from their surprisingly deep wine selection, these meals were the perfect bookend to days spent in the fresh outdoor air.
Hamar, Norway. Photo by Sebastian Price.
Reflecting on my time in Hamar, I found more than just a winter destination. I found a community that views the inviting outdoor sporting pursuits not as an adversary, but as a welcoming companion. The people there are genuinely friendly and eager to share their varied outdoor pleasures.
They offered me a brand of hospitality that felt authentic rather than manufactured for tourism. For anyone looking to escape the sanitized experience of a traditional ski resort, the trails of Hamar offer a raw, real experience.
The author received some complimentary services during this trip, but as always, we are dedicated to providing our readers with unbiased accounts of our experiences.
In Bergen, standing in one of the narrow alleys of Bryggen, gazing up at some of the old Hanseatic League warehouses, I recalled that this was once the biggest cod-packing facility in all of Europe. Then, as I lowered my gaze, I could almost catch a glimpse of the nearby harbor market, now a world-class venue for seafood lovers from all over the world.
From a visit a couple of years ago, I remember sumptuous displays of fish, explained with signs in as many as eight languages, and as an indispensable part of the Bergen experience, breakfast al fresco – rundestycke med laks (fresh-baked rolls with smoked salmon), boiled shrimp, and cooked crab.
And how could I forget the restaurant across the street? Its commitment to seafood was such that the only meat dish was called “No Fish Ohlsen” and served begrudgingly at a discouragingly high cost. And what about that gravlax we once ate in Trondheim?
Though well aware of Norway’s dedication to seafood and its preparation, my wife Roxie and I were still not ready for the all-out excellence of Cornelius.
Sara at the fish tank tower at Cornelius. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
Established in 2004 by Chef Alf Roald Saetre and Odd Einar Tufteland (known as “Shellfish Man” and the third generation in a family of shellfish farmers), Cornelius is a dining destination on the island of Bjorøy, a 20-minute boat ride from Bergen. Appropriately, the restaurant sits on a quay, overlooks a fjord, and boasts a small sea farm.
On the quay, the moment we stepped off the boat, we were treated to fresh oysters and drinks. Fish swirled in the water tanks next to us, and just feet away arose a small shellfish tower. After we had been seated indoors, I was taken to the tower by a charming waitress and shown live lobsters, crabs, and other shellfish.
Scallops at Cornelius. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
Before returning to my seat, I was asked to pick my own scallop. I did, and minutes later, it arrived at our table as an extra appetizer, neatly arranged on a rectangular plate, complete with a generous bowl of sea salt. Down it went, along with a deep swallow of Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve 2001. Succulent!
And so was the rest of the dinner, which began with trout mousse on a bed of spinach with truffle and shrimp, marinated in orange mango salsa.
Catfish at Cornelius. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
Baked catfish followed. A little tomato flavoring was added to the white wine sauce, and chanterelle mushrooms, asparagus, carrots, and small boiled potatoes came with the dish. The waitress pointed out that these were called French potatoes in Norway, famous for their light sweetness.
Our wine was then a Chablis J. Moreau & Fils 2007, and things could hardly be better. Outside, dusk was falling. Not any dusk, but the soft lingering twilight of a Scandinavian summer evening. Inside, dessert was coming.
The trout mousse at Cornelius. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
It was a worthy completion of our meal – a rhubarb and plum tart in a crunchy crumble with cinnamon and brown sugar, topped with a couple of strawberries and sour cream and, for a touch of elegance, a sprig of mint.
This feast in the Norwegian archipelago did not come cheap, but it was an experience we wouldn’t want to have missed. Going back to Bergen, I kept thinking of that scallop, alive and well, sacrificing its life so that I could indulge myself.
A waitress at Cornelius holding a dessert. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
Cornelius is situated on a small island and is not accessible by car. So it’s important to make reservations. Unless you have your own boat, the restaurant will make arrangements for you to get there by boat taxi from central Bergen.
The remnants of winter still commanded the high peaks of Norway’s Jotunheimen National Park, as though unwilling to be dislodged from the high ground. As days slowly grew longer, the surrounding land began to stir.
Jagged, snow-capped mountains stretched before my visual horizon, their sharp edges cutting a familiar silhouette into the grey sky. Far below, the valleys had begun to reveal seasonal change – pockets of green renewal breaking through and a gradual surrender to warmer days ahead. The land stood at a crossroads, caught in its timeless cycle of renewal and retreat.
I arrived in Jotunheimen full of excitement and much anticipation. In Norse mythology, this is Jotunheim – an ancient land of myth, and the untamed realm of giants. Towering peaks, icy winds, distant dark lakes. A realm still both evocative and strangely beautiful.
Here, the fearless Jotnar giants made their home – not just brutes but beings of strength and wisdom, bound by fate to the Nordic gods. The mighty Thor often crashed through these lands, his hammer striking down those who opposed him.
Viewing this wild and rugged terrain, I could see how ancient Nordic people could imagine such a place as remote and unforgiving, but truly a fit place for the home of marauding giants.
This rugged wilderness promised adventure, solitude, and raw beauty. As I set out, I saw winter’s steady retreat in real time. Green expanding patches had emerged, revealing small clusters of delicate purple wildflowers appearing where the snow had receded from view.
Frozen lakes along my trekking path cracked and groaned, while beginning to let go of the packed ice. While still crisp, the clear air carried the pleasant scent of damp earth and new growth.
The trail led me along a valley’s edge, where the melting snow fed rushing streams. Some proved easy to cross, just a few quick steps over exposed large rocks. Others proved somewhat more demanding and required extra care.
I soon reached another fast-moving river and watched as chunks of ice tumbled in a quick procession further downstream. The sounds of rushing waters and the tumbling of broken ice evoked a feeling of harmony and connection with my immediate surroundings.
Making good progress, I soon encountered another breathtaking view as I climbed steadily up onto the next ridge. More distant deep valleys appeared, interspersed with bright light occasionally dancing on the flowing streams and scattered lakes. The dark, majestic mountains in the far distance provided an interesting contrast to the expanding vista below.
As I progressed toward higher elevation, the snow thickened, blanketing much of the trail. I donned another pullover, zipped up my wind-resistant jacket, and pressed on. Sometimes, my foot sank below the softer surface, revealing hard rock beneath. In places, the snow cover stretched for miles, and the wind was a constant lonely companion.
Further along the way, I encountered a fellow hiker. This Norwegian man, who turned out to be in his sixties, moved with the ease of someone who knew these mountains well. He soon shared his valuable experience of the surrounding terrain.
“The weather changes fast here,” he warned. “Don’t trust the clear skies.” He soon proved to be right. Within an hour, the sky darkened, and thick mist rolled in, swallowing the peaks. The temperature dropped, and the wind grew louder through the passes. I pulled my hood tight and pushed on, knowing that in these mountains, weather patterns, particularly during transitioning seasons, can be rapid and unexpected on any trails.
Jotunheimen National Park. Photo courtesy of Jotunheimen Travel.
After reaching the next ridgeline, my concerted effort made it all worthwhile. As if already predestined, the darkened clouds parted, revealing another breathtaking view with snow-dappled peaks above and deep valleys below.
The juxtaposition captured my attention. I found a dry perch on the side of the ridge, pulled out my thermos, and savored the last of my hot coffee while immersed in the whispering silence. Time stood still.
Descending into the lower valleys, the transformation of the terrain appeared even more stark in contrast. Where the snow had melted, I could see abundant new growth as though it was waiting to finally be released from winter’s grip. Streams had carved fresh paths through the land, their waters gleaming in the late afternoon light.
I could see a few birds in the distance, a harbinger of an early summer. I passed an abandoned cabin, its wooden walls weathered and worn. I wondered about the lives once sheltered there.
As the daylight became shorter and the sky grew darker and overcast, I turned around and headed back to my lodge and a welcome hot dinner being prepared for me and other guests. Fortunately, I had made local arrangements with Jotunheimen Travel, which completed all the necessary arrangements encountered in my remote adventure, allowing me to focus on my discovery of Jotunheimen National Park.
As I approached my destination, my body felt pleasantly tired but satisfied. The air was refreshing and clear. As I trekked toward the welcoming warm lodge and an evening of lively company, I felt a deep appreciation for this in-between season – this moment caught between winter’s grip and summer’s soon-to-come embrace.
I made a mental note just before reaching my comfortable destination to return when summer is in the valleys and life is renewed and transformed in this land of the giants.
The world’s busiest airport? According to Airports Council International (ACI) World, it’s Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport (ATL), which also won that “honor” last year.
More potential tourist taxes. This time, it’s Norway. A bill is being considered that would add a 3% tourist tax on hotels, Airbnbs, and campsites.
Advice: don’t convert currency to USD! When you pay for something with a credit card in another country, DO NOT choose to pay in U.S. dollars. If you do, the merchant can choose a higher conversion rate, which means you will end up paying more. ALWAYS choose to pay in the local currency (especially if your credit card doesn’t charge you for conversions), and if your hotel or restaurant has automatically converted your bill, ask them to change it.
Power outage. A massive power outage in Spain and Portugal on Monday is mostly over now. But hospitals had to operate via generator, and public transportation ceased, while streetlights were also out.
CitizenM hotels. Marriott has bought out citizenM hotels, which has 36 properties across the globe.
Detail of Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
A selfie-free zone? That’s what Barcelona is doing at Sagrada Familia to curb the number of tourists and influencers taking selfies in front of the Gaudi landmark.
Free in-flight WiFi? Yes! Starting next year, WiFi will be free on 90% of American Airlines’ fleet. This is thanks to a partnership with AT&T.
In other American Airlines news… The airline is changing its boarding groups. Read the details here.
Delta Air Lines news. Starting this summer, Delta will swap its 757s for Boeing 767-300ER on flights between Atlanta and Anchorage, and this route will become year-round.
Delta plane fire. Speaking of Delta, one of its planes caught fire at Orlando airport on April 21st before leaving for Atlanta. No one was hurt, but the plane had to be evacuated via slides.
United Airlines news. To avoid drunk passengers, United is instituting a new “huddle process” as of May 1st. If two flight attendants observe signs of intoxication in a passenger, they’ll huddle with the rest of the inflight team to decide if the person should be removed and denied boarding.
JetBlue and Japan Airlines. TrueBlue points can now be redeemed for flights with Japan Airlines! I highly recommend visiting Japan. It’s one of my favorite places on earth.
Bora Bora, Tahiti. Photo by Michelle_Pitzel.
Tahiti, anyone? If you’re traveling with children, you can bring two up to age 11 for almost free (just pay the taxes). This holds only from Sea-Tac Airport or LAX to Tahiti on Air Tahiti, and you have to book direct or with a travel agent on or before 12/31/25.
Pan Am-themed hotel. As part of Hilton’s Tapestry Collection, the retro-style hotel will open at the Citadel Outlets in Los Angeles in the middle of 2026.
Guaranteed late check-in? Is this too good to be true? Well, sort of. Hilton will roll this out next year. It will cost $40-$60 and can be confirmed up to 72 hours before arrival. We still don’t know how late guests will be allowed to stay, but that might depend on availability. Reports say that 10-20 rooms will be allotted for this, depending on the size of the property.
German teens deported. Two teenagers arriving in Hawaii from Germany were denied entry into the U.S. allegedly because they didn’t already have a hotel reservation.
Two of the Pyramids of Giza in Egypt. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
What’s happenin’ at the Pyramids? Like so many places on the planet, Egypt’s Pyramids of Giza are suffering from overcrowding. So the Egyptian government has launched a $51 million plan, but so far, it’s causing more problems. Camel tour operators protested the alternative access point and say the entrance is too far away, but authorities are threatening to ban any operators who refuse to move to the new area. Hopefully, they’ll be able to iron out these problems.
Cruise illnesses. Norovirus isn’t the only thing that can go around on a cruise ship. A Viking ship in Canada just had more than 30 passengers come down with an unidentified gastrointestinal illness.
Airbnb news. While I’m not a fan of the platform due to all the horror stories I’ve read, they’re making a slight change for the better: fees will be included now for total pricing transparency.
Airport lounge news! I’m excited about this one. The new Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse at LAX is now open to Priority Pass members. The catch is that it will require a $35 top-up fee, but sounds worth it to me.
When I recently returned to Oslo, I was greeted by the familiar cultural and historic sights, from the prominent royal palace to the modern and distinct Scandinavian architectural facades that are reflections of Nordic-inspired tradition and lifestyle.
There’s always so much more to this vibrant capital city. Just a short ride from the bustling city center, I found an urban skyline transformed into a wonderful recreational landscape, perfect for anyone who shares my passion for sports and outdoor activities. If I want to immerse myself in nature, Holmenkollen is my go-to retreat, offering stunning views overlooking Oslo and its picturesque fjords.
Rising 500 meters above sea level, Holmenkollen is renowned for its impressive giant Olympic ski jump and international sports competitions.
The Heights of Holmenkollen
As I ventured higher, I discovered areas above Oslo that provide a special view of the city. At the summit, the Scandic Holmenkollen Park Hotel stands 350 meters above sea level, offering impressive views of both Oslo and the nearby Nordmarka forest.
This historic landmark, dating back to 1894, once served as a sanatorium before transforming into a 4-star hotel. After several renovations, the Scandic Holmenkollen Park Hotel has preserved its unique character with the latest updates further enhancing its appeal.
One of the hotel’s most fascinating features is its Nordic architecture adorned with Viking-inspired dragon gargoyles that pay homage to the National Romanticism period. Inside, I was captivated by a beautiful blend of modern and rustic design.
The historic Drage Building reflects Norse mythology throughout, showcasing recurring ancient motifs and stories. Each art piece draws upon mythical creatures believed to safeguard against life’s unpredictabilities.
The Historic Five Living Rooms
I was also drawn to the five living rooms in the Drage building, each radiating a nostalgic and rural charm. Each room displays a variety of historic artifacts, including a stunning late 19th century soapstone fireplace. These living rooms capture the essence of Norway’s history during the reign of King Oscar the II.
Beautiful paintings of bucolic Norwegian landscapes adorn the walls, encapsulating the natural beauty of the countryside. A standout piece is Gerhard Munthe’s landscape painting from Hallingdal. Notable artwork and decorative arts grace the spacious communal areas, creating a delightful ambiance for dining while enjoying the stunning views of Oslo.
An Oslo local in traditional dress. Photo by Sebastian Price.
Dining Pleasures
The dining experience was a highlight, with various areas offering delicious menu selections. In addition to a complimentary breakfast buffet, I had the choice of à la carte dining and buffet options. The consistent quality of the dishes made every meal a pleasure, with freshly cooked fish and meat entrees that were simply delightful.
For enhanced dining experiences, the hotel’s wine cellars provide a very wide selection of premium wines and spacious rooms for large gatherings.
Other Amenities
A major highlight of the hotel is the spacious gym, equipped with state-of-the-art equipment. Within the hotel, the Artesia Spa offers a relaxing retreat, featuring a heated pool and treatment rooms for massages and facials.
The understated décor embodies the essence of Scandinavian style, creating a serene ambiance. This stylish design extends to the rooms and suites, where comfort is paramount. The master suites are particularly spacious and furnished with high quality crafted fixtures.
The hotel is a wonderful gathering place for families and friends. I saw cross-country skiers meeting in the foyer who had just finished skiing trails near the surrounding forest and open terrain, gathered for lunch. Cross-country skiing may last to early May this year.
On another occasion during my stay, a wedding party posed for pictures in the lobby, and a guest in traditional Norwegian costume radiated joy as she entered the hotel with her spouse.
As a premier destination, the hotel offers such a wide variety of amenities, which a savvy, seasoned traveler would expect. Its prime location also makes it easy to get to the center of Oslo and the impressive Holmenkollen ski jump, sports museum, and Oslo Winter Park.
The Holmenkollen ski jump in Oslo. Photo by Nanisimova.
Access and Convenience
The stadium, ski jump, and museum are famous sites, commemorating past World Cups and international ski jumping events. Outdoor enthusiasts flock to Holmenkollen to engage in these sports and soak up the special atmosphere in this iconic Olympic site.
I enjoyed trekking through the enchanting tall pine forests, where the natural surroundings provided a peaceful escape in which to connect with nature.
Holmenkollen offers attractive ways to spend quality time outdoors during a visit to Oslo. With the Olympic complex and downtown Oslo within easy reach, the Scandic Holmenkollen Park Hotel is the perfect destination that seamlessly blends into the peaceful surrounding terrain, creating an unforgettable experience.
