Istanbul was called just “The City” or the “City on the Seven Hills” when it was the capital of the Byzantine Empire. It’s indeed a very ancient city that straddles Europe and Asia across the Bosphorus Strait.
This both modern and ancient city has expanded along the Bosphorus coast from the Sea of Marmara almost to the Black Sea, engulfing what used to be suburbs and outlaying villages on both sides of the Strait.
It has been the cradle of 3 major Empires: the Eastern Roman Empire (the Hellenized Eastern part of the Roman Empire), the Byzantine Empire (a Greek Mediterranean powerhouse), and the Ottoman Empire (the final evolution and culmination of Turcoman, Seljuk, and Ottoman nomadic tribes that dominated Asia and the Middle East from roots in what is now Mongolia and Eastern Siberia).
A portion of Topkapi Palace in Istanbul. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
There have always been various religious influences that still play a major role in the life of the current inhabitants. There’s no longer the Roman or Greek Olympus Pantheon to influence the resident’s thinking, but the Greek Orthodox Christian Church is still in the city, anchored by the Greek Patriarchate. There are numerous, very active Jewish synagogues, and of course, the Sunni Islamic denomination is now the dominant religion.
Small ethnic groups still play a considerable role in the local culture. There’s whatever is left of the Greek community (once major business owners and state administrators), what’s left of the Armenian community, and the Jewish community with its remnants still vibrant. There are a few other groups, such as Ukrainians and Russians fleeing the current war, Syrians, Palestinians, Afghanis, Bangladeshis, and Pakistanis fleeing the poverty and turmoil in their regions.
The city has somehow assimilated all those diverse cultural influences to create an interesting mosaic uniquely local. A mélange of customs and lifestyles have been created that make Istanbul irresistible to a modern traveler.
It’s interesting to see, side by side, old women wearing long black burqas that only have a slit for the wearer to see through along with modern young girls with short skirts or slacks, but still wearing a traditional hijab. These can be either a black or tan semi-diaphanous fabric or in many cases an Hermes, Dior, or Gucci scarf.
The beautiful architecture of Istanbul. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
If you’re interested in architecture, there are numerous buildings and locations to explore, starting with the Roman Hippodrome, the Byzantine fortifications, public water cisterns, and churches. Then, there are Ottoman palaces, public buildings, mosques, hammams, public markets (bazaars), and the modern part of the city that includes five-star hotels, residential neighborhoods, leafy parks, and bridges.
One of my favorite pastimes is walking down Istiklal Avenue starting from Taksim Square all the way down to the Tünel – the 1875 underground funicular that still operates to connect the residential Pera with Galata harbor, the area nowadays known as Karaköy.
Istiklal is now a pedestrian thoroughfare and Istanbul’s combined Fifth Avenue and Oxford Street. I still love looking at the upscale shop windows that fascinated me as a child when visiting family living in the city.
The red tram along Istiklal. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
A red tram still chugs along at the center of Istiklal, ringing its bell to force walkers to make way. Some of the most interesting Turkish enterprises have offices and stores in the buildings lining the street, such as the famous sweets emporium branch of Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir, the creator of the Lokum or Turkish Delight. It’s still made according to the secret formula handed down from generation to generation.
The company is also still run by the current descendants of Haci Bekir Efendi (I believe seventh generation) and employs only candy-makers and other workers from their ancestral village.
Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir In Istanbul. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Public transportation is omnipresent with trams, ferries to the “other side” and the islands of the Sea of Marmara, the funicular that connects the residential neighborhood to the port where many of the major offices are located, and the ubiquitous “dolmuş,” which are white or blue shared taxis or minibuses that operate in and around Istanbul. Plus, of course, plenty of modern yellow taxis with a sign on top that reads “Taksi” since the letter “X” is non-existent in the Romanized Turkish alphabet.
Actually, the word dolmuş (and common variant dolma) is the Turkish word for filled, stuffed, or full. It refers to the shared taxis, as well as some of my favorite dishes called “yaprak dolma” (stuffed vine leaves) or “patlican dolma” (stuffed eggplant).
Another use of the word can be found in “Dolmabahçe Sarayi,” literally translating to “The Filled Garden Palace” – the main administrative center of the Ottoman Empire until 1924 when the Turkish Republic was established by the “Father of Turkey” Mustafa Kemal. The name was adopted because landfill was used to create the palace’s gardens along the sea coast.
Istanbul traffic. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The one thing that has changed since my last visit to “The City” is the traffic. During the working day, it takes considerable time to drive three blocks – as much as 15 minutes while after-hours traffic is at a minimum. Additionally, the drivers take traffic signage as “only suggestions.” They double and triple park on narrow streets with little consideration for other drivers. But except for that, it’s a wonderful city.
A man gets a shoeshine in Istanbul. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
An unusual experience for male tourists is to enjoy a shoeshine at one of the traditional shoeshine stands that can still be found along thoroughfares, street corners, and lobbies of some of the international hostelries.
An architectural complex worth exploring is the Topkapi Sarayi (Cannon’s Gate Palace). It was the main residence of the sultans until the 17th century and was featured in the famous motion picture, “Topkapi,” a heist film produced and directed by Jules Dassin.
Beautiful Istanbul. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Other interesting places to explore are the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sophia complex, the Galata Tower, and the Mısır Çarşısı (also known as the Egyptian Spice Market). It’s one of the many enclosed public marketplaces (bazaars) where, if you have the knowledge and desire, you can practice your skills in the ancient art of bargaining. And believe me, you have to be very knowledgeable of merchandise quality and pricing to be victorious. Other possibilities include the Grand Bazaar or the Balik Pazari (the city’s fish market).
Hagia Sophia. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Much of this architectural and cultural cornucopia is located on the European side of the Sea of Marmara, where first the Byzantines and then the Ottomans had their main city and palaces. The Asian side has fewer monuments and palaces and many more modern structures.
The lush, picturesque Valle de Guadalupe in Ensenada, Baja California, has come into its own as one of the leading wine destinations on both sides of the border. The valley is located 80 miles from San Diego, California, making it easily accessible by car to Southern California locals and visitors who want a taste of Wine Country – with an international twist! One of the premier winery destinations in this region is the El Cielo Winery and Resort.
El Cielo Winery and Resort. Photo by Joanne and Tony DiBona.
Tuscany in Baja California
If you have ever visited Tuscany, Italy, the moment you enter the El Cielo Resort will evoke memories of the style of architecture of northern Italy. Why not save yourself the time and expense of traveling to Italy when you can enjoy all its ambiance within easy driving distance from the US border?
A suite at El Cielo Winery and Resort. Photo by Joanne and Tony DiBona.
A “Heavenly” Hotel Experience
Accommodations at the El Cielo Resort are definitely five-star. The spacious rooms offer luxury bedding and first-class amenities, not to speak of a view on the rolling hills and picturesque vineyards right outside your balcony. You’ll wake up to the sound of chirping birds and no other traffic noise from an adjacent freeway. Translated into English, El Cielo means “heaven.”
We can’t agree more.
Fine dining at El Cielo Winery and Resort. Photo by Joanne and Tony DiBona.
Fine Dining Options
Organic vegetables raised on the El Cielo estate, coupled with fresh fish plucked from the ocean waters surrounding the Baja peninsula, make for farm-to-table dining delights that are both healthy and tasty.
From delicious tacos fresh from the grill to a multi-course dining extravaganza in some of the several fine dining restaurants on the property, you’ll never lack for a wide variety of culinary options at El Cielo Resort.
Latitud 32 is the elegant vineyard restaurant at El Cielo serving Baja-Yucatan fusion cuisine and prime Angus cuts, alongside panoramic views of the property’s expansive grape vines and majestic mountains.
Wine and chocolate tasting at El Cielo Winery and Resort. Photo by Joanne and Tony DiBona.
The Wine Experience
If you want to learn more about the grapes grown in this region and taste the wines made from them along the way, make sure you put a wine-tasting tour of the El Cielo Vineyards on your itinerary.
Wine and chocolate have been known to have many health properties, as well as the ability to lift the spirits! For an ultimate tasting experience, sip the wines from the El Cielo Winery, coupled with a variety of homemade chocolate truffles produced by a local chocolatier.
The new winery experience at El Cielo also includes a virtual reality component to explore the process of how the cacao is turned into the chocolate truffle tasted during the activity.
The vast wine cellars of the El Cielo resort offer interesting tours as part of their “Winery Experience” itinerary. At this presentation, guests are invited to mix a variety of wines from the barrels to make their own unique blend. Because all the El Cielo wines are exceptional, there’s no making a mistake in this effort. No matter how you mix it, the wine blend you create will be exquisite.
A gift shop at El Cielo Winery and Resort. Photo by Joanne and Tony DiBona.
Contemporary Local Art, Jewelry, and Ethnic Clothing
Art lovers will bask in the original, local, and regional Mexican art that is on display at the resort, both on the grounds to enjoy and also available for purchase.
Shopping at the El Cielo Resort is a colorful experience, with beautiful ethnic clothing local to the region, as well as designer clothing and unique jewelry featured in the expansive and beautifully designed gift shop.
Falconry at El Cielo Winery and Resort. Photo by Joanne and Tony DiBona.
And There Are Animals!
Wildlife abounds in this glorious region of Mexico. A resident falcon is always on hand to show his prowess during a winery tour.
Selene, the resident cat at the winery, is a local legend. She showed up one day some 15 years ago as a lost kitten and was restored to health by the caring staff. In return, she eradicated the vineyard’s mice population within a few months and continues to do so to this day.
She serves as a diplomat (or is that diploCAT?), and because she’s very sociable, she can be seen around the winery waiting for a pat on the head from visitors as she continues her important duties.
The resident kitty at El Cielo Winery and Resort. Photo by Joanne and Tony DiBona.
A Romantic Spot for Destination Weddings
Equinox, the vineyard venue at El Cielo, is perfect for many a special event, including weddings. Why fly your bridal party and relatives to a destination wedding in a remote location when you can enjoy the ambiance of Old Mexico so much closer to home?
The tenth anniversary dinner at El Cielo Winery and Resort. Photo by Joanne and Tony DiBona.
Picture-Perfect Moments
On our last evening at El Cielo in celebration of the El Cielo Winery’s tenth anniversary, we visited the winery chapel high on the hill overlooking the resort. Imagine our surprise when a huge harvest moon made its ascent over the mountains, resulting in this picture-perfect image of that magical evening!
The harvest moon over El Cielo Winery and Resort. Photo by Joanne and Tony DiBona.
Ian Cauble, MS of The Caubleist was kind enough to provide us with the following article containing his 10 holiday wine recommendations:
The holidays are a time for celebration and enjoying those closest to you. There is no way better than connecting with someone than over a glass of great wine, with great food on the table. These are some of my favorite wines and producers to drink this holiday season which, for me, in terms of price to quality, are some of the best on the market. All of these wines are available on our new online store at thecaubleist.com.
Inside the fortified medieval village of Ghemme, the Rovellotti family produces some of the most captivating Nebbiolo-based wines in Northern Italy. Alto Piemonte sits at the foothills of the Alps, giving Nebbiolo a lighter, more alpine expression than its cousins in Barolo or Barbaresco – more rose petals, red fruits, and mineral lift. The 2022 Valplazza shows alpine strawberry, dried flower, and crushed rock purity.
Holiday Why: Nebbiolo’s acidity and structure make it one of the most food-versatile red grapes on earth – roasted poultry, mushroom dishes, charcuterie, and even holiday pastas shine alongside it.
Fleurie is one of the ten Cru villages of Beaujolais, known for producing the most elegant and floral expressions of Gamay. The region’s pink granite soils give the grape its signature perfume and silky texture. Hoppenot, now among the top names in the region, delivers a wine filled with violets, raspberries, and rose petals.
Holiday Why: Gamay’s freshness and low tannin make it a flawless party wine – easy to drink, crowd-pleasing, and perfect with ham, turkey, cheese boards, and long afternoons of grazing.
The Willamette Valley is America’s answer to Burgundy, sharing latitude and a cool-climate growing season that draws out Pinot Noir’s delicacy and aromatic depth. Evesham Wood has championed low-intervention, terroir-driven Pinot since the 1980s. The 2023 delivers red cherry, cranberry, forest spice, and a soft, elegant frame.
Holiday Why: Pinot Noir is a holiday essential – universal with turkey, salmon, pork loin, and roasted vegetables, and gentle enough to sip all day.
4. Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022 – Rhône Valley, France ($55)
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is Southern France’s most historic and influential wine region, famous for its sun-soaked vineyards, warm Mistral winds, and 13 permitted grape varieties. Grenache dominates, giving wines warmth, spice, and generosity. Bois de Boursan remains fiercely traditional, aging in large old foudres and allowing terroir – not flash – to lead.
Holiday Why: Perfect for richer holiday meals – prime rib, lamb, stews – when you want intensity, warmth, and depth.
5. Domaine de Gouye Saint-Joseph “Vieille Vigne” 2023 – Northern Rhône, France ($45)
Saint-Joseph stretches along the granite slopes of the Northern Rhône, where Syrah achieves one of its most complex expressions, shaped by altitude, mineral-rich soils, and a cool continental climate. Domaine de Gouye’s steep, horse-plowed vineyards sit near the appellation’s birthplace, producing Syrah that feels closer to Cornas or Côte-Rôtie than typical Saint-Joseph. The wine brims with dense blueberry fruit, violet notes, smoke, and deep mineral tension.
Holiday Why: A brilliant match for braised dishes, BBQ brisket, beef tenderloin, and the heartier, cozier flavors of winter cooking.
Red wine. Photo by Sponchia.
6. Señorío de Peciña Rioja Gran Reserva 2016 – Rioja Alta, Spain ($55)
Rioja Alta is home to Spain’s longest-lived and most traditional red wines. Tempranillo thrives in its high-altitude vineyards, producing reds with elegance, acidity, and longevity. Gran Reservas must spend at least five years aging before release, and Peciña takes this philosophy even further with long, slow maturation in seasoned American oak.
Holiday Why: Its warm spice, dried cherry, tobacco, and leather notes pair beautifully with holiday roasts, jamón, manchego, or a fireside gathering.
7. White Walnut Chardonnay 2023 – Dundee Hills, Oregon ($40)
The Dundee Hills AVA in Oregon’s Willamette Valley is one of America’s most prized regions for cool-climate Chardonnay. Its ancient volcanic Jory soils and fog-cooled slopes create Chardonnays with structure, minerality, and tension. White Walnut has quickly earned acclaim for producing some of the most balanced and expressive Chardonnay in the region. The 2023 vintage delivers Meyer lemon, white peach, hazelnut, and a beautifully woven line of acidity – a style that strongly resembles high-quality white Burgundy in both texture and precision.
Holiday Why: Chardonnay is a holiday staple, and this bottle shines with roasted chicken, crab, creamy pastas, gratins, and any dish requiring elegance and lift.
8. NV Champagne Franck Bonville Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut – Côte des Blancs, France ($55)
The Côte des Blancs is home to the purest Chardonnay in Champagne, grown on ancient chalk that imparts tension, minerality, and longevity. Grand Cru villages like Avize and Oger produce some of the world’s most sought-after Blanc de Blancs. Franck Bonville’s style is razor-clean, floral, citrus-driven, and deeply mineral.
Holiday Why: Nothing signals celebration like Champagne – ideal for toasts, seafood, caviar, cheese boards, or elevating the start of any evening.
9. Pott Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 – Napa Valley ($85)
Napa Valley remains one of the world’s greatest sites for Cabernet Sauvignon, thanks to its Mediterranean climate, diverse soils, and long, even growing season. Aaron Pott, a former winemaker of Château Troplong Mondot and Château La Tour Figeac, brings a Bordeaux sensibility to Napa richness. The result is polished, structured Cabernet layered with cassis, cocoa, violets, and herbs.
Holiday Why: A luxurious addition to Christmas dinner, or a perfect gift for any serious Napa collector.
10. Château des Graviers “Margaux” 2020 – Bordeaux, France ($50)
Margaux is known for producing the most aromatic and elegant red wines in Bordeaux, often leaning into florality, red fruit purity, and silky tannins. Château des Graviers, imported by Neal Rosenthal, farms biodynamically and vinifies traditionally, resulting in authentic, terroir-first Margaux. The 2020 is a Cabernet Sauvignon–dominant blend which shows cassis, plum, graphite, and violets with classic Left Bank finesse.
Holiday Why: A natural pairing for roasted duck, filet mignon, or refined holiday dinners where elegance is the theme.
Christmas tree and white wine. Photo by StockSnap.
Final Thought
From Grand Cru Champagne to high-elevation California Cabernet, from alpine Nebbiolo to traditional Rioja, these 10 bottles offer remarkable value and unforgettable pleasure. In a season built on connection, generosity, and sharing great meals, these wines elevate the moments that matter most.
California’s own museum heist. The Louvre isn’t the only museum to lose some valuable artifacts recently. The Oakland Museum of California’s storage facility had more than 1,000 items go missing in mid-October.
UK train stabbing. On November 2nd, multiple people were stabbed on a train in England. The suspect was arrested and has been charged with 10 counts of attempted murder.
New Salt Lake City airport lounges. Concourse B has been expanded at Salt Lake City International Airport with 10 new gates and a new Delta Sky Club with soundproof booths and a nature room, as well as an American Express Centurion Lounge with a year-round outdoor terrace and an espresso counter.
Philippines typhoons. Two typhoons have recently hit the Philippines and killed more than 200 people between them. More than a million people were evacuated and displaced. The first typhoon also killed 5 people in Vietnam.
Tropical storm. Photo by Assy.
New U.S. Department of Transportation rules. I’m a bit stunned by these, but there are new rules that favor consumers: (1) Domestic flights require automatic refunds if delayed by 3 or more hours, and international flights require automatic refunds if delayed by 6 or more hours; (2) refunds must be processed within 7 business days; (3) extras (like seats) must be refunded if the purchased extras aren’t provided; and (4) baggage fees must be refunded if luggage is delayed for 12 hours or more on a domestic flight and 30 hours or more on an international flight.
Passengers injured at Washington Dulles Airport. Earlier this month, a shuttle or “mobile lounge” on the tarmac in Washington DC’s Dulles Airport hit a dock, and 18 people were injured. Those injuries were described as “non-life-threatening,” but apparently many required hospital care.
Maldives smoking ban. The Maldives is the first country in the world to ban smoking among an entire generation. It’s now banned for anyone born on or after January 1, 2007, and this applies to tourists in that age group. Vaping is banned for tourists of all ages.
The Colosseum in Rome. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Strikes in Italy. If you’re traveling to Italy soon, be aware that there are some strikes going on. The public transport network in Rome, the Italian employees of EasyJet, and the Italian employees of Spain’s Volotea airline are involved.
A Mexican mayor was murdered. The mayor of the state of Michoacán was fatally shot dead in front of lots of people early this month during a Day of the Dead gathering. The gunman appears to be affiliated with a crime group in the area.
Uber’s new feature for women. Uber now has its Women Preference feature available in 26 U.S. cities, which allows women to request a female driver. The cities currently included are: Baltimore, Charlotte, Chicago, Cleveland, Columbus, Connecticut, Dallas, Hampton Roads (Norfolk), Honolulu, Houston, Jacksonville, Las Vegas, Milwaukee, Nashville, New Orleans, Orlando, Pittsburgh, Raleigh–Durham, Rhode Island, Sacramento, Salt Lake City, San Antonio, San Diego, St. Louis, Tampa Bay, and Upstate New York. I hope they will launch it in other cities soon.
As millions of us book Airbnbs and private rentals this summer, private investigator John Eastham at Private Investigations UK is warning travelers to watch out for security risks you won’t see in the listing.
From disguised surveillance to dodgy hosts, below is Eastham’s checklist of lesser-known signs he looks for when investigating properties, as well as the red flags that could mean your holiday isn’t as private as you think.
Eastham, says: “When I walk into a property, I don’t just see a rental — I’m scanning it the way I would on a surveillance job. Most guests don’t realize how easy it is for a bad actor to monitor them or to exploit weak points in a property. A few PI tricks can give you peace of mind and stop you becoming a target.”
Travelers enter their vacation rental. Stock photo.
The PI’s Insider Safety Checklist
Check
Insider PI Tip
Why It Matters
Wi-Fi devices scan
Use your phone to scan for unknown devices linked to the Wi-Fi. Eastham says hidden cameras often run off the host’s network.
Surveillance devices can be as small as a smoke alarm or USB plug.
Peepholes & mirrors
Always test mirrors with the “fingernail test” (your nail should touch the reflection; if there’s a gap, it could be two-way glass). Peepholes can also be reversed.
Investigators use these tricks in surveillance — so do criminals.
Rekeyed locks
If locks look new or mismatched, ask why. It can be a sign they’ve been replaced after a break-in or unauthorized entry.
Access history is impossible to prove — better to question than assume.
Tampered alarms
Look for alarm panels that are switched off or with wires exposed.
A disabled alarm is a major red flag for safety.
Unusual wall sockets/vents
PIs know these are common places to hide recorders. Shine a flashlight and look for tiny lenses or wiring.
Female travelers are most at risk from voyeurism setups.
Balcony/secondary entry
Stand outside and check if your balcony or windows can be accessed from a neighbor’s unit or fire escape.
Eastham says many stalker cases begin with easy access routes.
Host behavior
Overly controlling hosts who insist on meeting you in person or who “pop by” without notice.
It’s a control tactic and a serious red flag.
“The reality is, I’ve seen cases where travelers’ privacy was completely violated,” Eastham says. “These aren’t common, but when it happens, the damage is devastating. That’s why being alert to the little things — the ones only a PI would think to check — can make all the difference.”
Travelers rush to Japan in spring to see the cherry blossoms, and for good reason. They are truly stunning. But the crowds at that time of year can be particularly oppressive. In fact, if you haven’t made plans already for late March to early April 2026 when the cherry blossoms are in bloom, it might already be too late to get hotel reservations.
When I visited Japan a couple of years before the pandemic, I opted to go right after cherry blossom season. Why? Because it’s wisteria season. And I highly recommend visiting the country at that time – mid-April to mid-May.
Pink wisteria at Ashikaga Flower Park in Japan. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Wisteria is equally stunning, and while there aren’t as many trees as there are cherry blossoms throughout the country, you will find plenty of them to admire. You will definitely want to visit Ashikaga Flower Park, which I’ve written about previously. It will have wisteria in pink, white, and purple, as well as numerous other flowers.
Cherry blossoms at Ashikaga Flower Park in Japan. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I loved all of Japan, but my favorite day in the country was the one I spent at Ashikaga. It’s an easy day trip from Tokyo, which I explain in my article on the park. And I even got to see a few cherry blossoms that were still in bloom!
Women in traditional dress in Tokyo. It doesn’t get more charming than this! Photo by Melanie Votaw.
So if you want to see beautiful flowers in Japan and skip the very height of the crowds, go for wisteria, not cherry blossoms.
We believe the products in this article should be part of the well-stocked bar of anyone who takes their holiday spirits seriously.
Bad Stuff Tequila. Photo courtesy of the company.
“The Bad Stuff Tequila” is, in our opinion, a rather unfortunate name for an exceptional Reserva Especial Extra Añejo Tequila, aged for a least 3 years in French oak. It’s meant for sipping neat or on the rocks. It’s not unlike a very good brandy or single malt whisky. It comes in numbered bottles (ours was #5070 out of 5814).
Made in Jalisco, Mexico, this elegant aged tequila is meticulously crafted and harvested from the finest estate-grown weber azul agave. It has intense aromas of nutmeg, allspice, caramelized agave, vanilla, and cigar box. The smooth palate has balanced notes of pepper, smoke, wood, and tobacco. A crisp and magnificent finish has earthy hints.
The rich agave nectar is fermented, then double distilled, first in stainless steel alembics with a final distillation in a traditional copper alembic. It’s then transferred into first-use, medium-charred, French oak barrels and allowed to rest for a minimum of 3 years. An exceptional spirit, it’s 80 proof (40% ABV).
Hard Truth Maple Bourbon Cream. Photo courtesy of the company.
Another interesting beverage, also with a rather unfortunate name, is the “Hard Truth” Maple Bourbon Cream. They were kind enough to send us a sample bottle. It’s part of a range of smooth, premium craft spirits that are nuanced enough to be enjoyed sipped or on the rocks or as part of cocktails.
This particular bottle is a blend of Brown County, Indiana straight bourbon whiskey, fresh dairy cream, and maple syrup. It begins with hand-selected barrels of aged whiskey, transferred to rest in new, custom hand-crafted barrels that have been toasted, charred, and hardwood smoked.
This finishing technique from Hard Truth Distilling Co. adds new dimension to these premium whiskies, enhancing the original flavors and adding further depth while creating a complex and balanced finish.
It has a nose of maple candy, cream and oak and a palate of cream, sweet maple, bold bourbon, brown sugar, marshmallow, and toasted pecan. The rich and creamy finish has notes of toffee, nougat, and warm, lingering bourbon and maple.
As previously stated, it’s perfect as a sipping drink, but at a restaurant near us with an inventive mixologist, we had a cocktail made as follows in an ice-filled rocks glass:
2 oz. Hard Truth Maple Bourbon Cream 1 1/2 oz. apple cider ½ oz. spiced pear liqueur ½ oz. maple syrup 4 dashes orange bitters or angostura Bitters (We had the cocktail with both kinds of bitters, and it was good and refreshing both times.)
Dexter Bourbon. Photo courtesy of the company.
Also, a new flagship bourbon tasting sample was received at our office. It’s a blend of six 90+ point WoodCraft finished bourbons. The taste and aroma is of 200-year European oak, American oak, cherry wood, maple wood, and smoked oak. It’s named in honor of the legendary barrel blender Edmund Dexter, as he would have crafted it in 1862.
We enjoyed it neat with just a splash of cold water, as I thought this bourbon would be wasted if used in a cocktail. It was a monument to incredible smoothness, as well as fresh, bright flavor. Mr. Dexter used to purchase barrels of raw whiskey from Ohio and Kentucky, blended them on the premises, put them it into kegs or jugs, and supplied saloons, restaurants, grocery stores, and other local places selling liquor.
It’s well understood that most of the flavor and 100% of the smoothness of bourbon of all whiskies comes from the interaction of whiskey and the wood in which the whiskey is aged. The Brain Brew Distillery of Newtown, Ohio returned to its bourbon roots when bourbon was crafted by distillers and master barrel blenders and customized for customers, so that everyone had a whiskey crafted to their own, individual, taste.
Many American whiskeys compare very favorably to Scotch whisky, and most are produced to an exceptionally high standard.
Johny Bootlegger spirits. Photo courtesy of the company.
The Johny Bootlegger story started during the American experiment in abstinence from liquor known as “The Prohibition.” The 18th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution – which banned the manufacture, transportation, and sale of intoxicating liquors – officially went into effect on January 17, 1920, with the passage of the Volstead Act.
The increase in the illegal production and sale of liquor known as “bootlegging,” the proliferation of illegal drinking spots known as “speakeasies,” and the rise in gang violence, murders, bribing of officials, and other crimes led to waning support for Prohibition as time passed by.
In early 1933, Congress adopted a resolution proposing the 21st Amendment to the Constitution that repealed the 18th. The 21st Amendment was ratified on December 5, 1933, ending Prohibition. But the damage had already been done, especially in the country’s large urban centers where respect for the law, the police, and the judicial system had plummeted.
Johny Bootlegger was supposedly an “entrepreneur” who was doing a stretch in Sing Sing prison when he had the idea for creating speakeasies (private drinking clubs where people could go, socialize, dance, flirt, and imbibe). A few of the most famous eateries and clubs in Manhattan became legendary speakeasies during that time.
In our office came a box with three fruity liquors that can be excellent bases for cocktails or can be sipped as after dinner drinks. Included in the box was also a metal flask just like the ones the fellers used to carry in their hip pockets and dames used to tuck in their garters during Prohibition.
We received Alcatraz Sour Apple, Sing Sing Sour Grape, and Syndicate City Sour Peach. Those and many other fruity tipples in the Bootlegger line have been inspired by the legendary Johny and can be bought (not stolen, please) from your local liquor store or ordered in-non-dry areas online from the Geloso Beverage Group of Rochester, New York.
The city of seven hills offers the most picturesque “leg day” in the world, with endless charm and equally endless inclines. Fortunately, transportation via cable car, funicular, Uber, taxi, and local-ride service Bolt make exploring each unique neighborhood anything but an uphill battle. A long weekend makes an easy taster of this vibrant city, but you might not be ready to leave its charms so quickly once discovered.
Sleeping Like Royalty
A truly special property, the Torel Palace Lisbon is actually a series of mansions clinging to the top of a hill in the Pena neighborhood. A pink palace boasts rooms named after Queens, blue for Kings, the Lavra palace honoring royal infants, and the white for the Royal Family apartments.
An aerial view of the Torel Palace in Lisbon. Photo by Carlos Vieira.
Despite the refined air, the property just has that unique ambiance where you can settle in and feel the serenity envelop you, despite being in the thick of an energy-filled city. The tony digs are situated alongside the oldest funicular in Lisbon – the charming Acensor do Lavra – which dates to 1884. The funicular operated continuously for over 140 years before being temporary halted after the tragic Gloria crash in September 2025 – in a combination of sensitivity and respect despite having just undergone several months of maintenance and testing.
The Lavra line ran just under the windows of our suite’s bedroom and Juliet balcony of the bathroom, adding to the authentic sense of place. Other luxe touches in the high-ceilinged multi-room suite included a massive TV-inside-the-lounge mirror and chandelier so grand and ornate over the bed, I had to smother a giggle under the thick feather duvet having just returned from seeing Phantom of the Opera.
Lisbon offered so much to do, but I could have been happy just lounging by one of two charming hillside pools sipping a chilled cider and tackling a burrata and heirloom tomato lunch, or offering homage to the history of the Lavra mansion in which my suite sat by opting for a cacao-based spa treatment before a visit to the Turkish hammam steam room. Everywhere you wander on the property, you discover comfy secluded nooks where you can sink in and escape the world.
The included gourmet breakfast rivaled any other top hotel, with eggs benedict on demand and chefs topping up sizzling marinated mushrooms, thick-cut bacon, platters of charcuterie with local cheeses, pastries, and homemade cakes, all of which paired nicely with bottomless mimosas or champagne. The meal was served in the elegant Black Pavilion dining room and patio – a great teaser for my dinner plans.
To be fair, I first discovered the Torel Palace after perusing some exciting Michelin-starred restaurants in the city. The 2Monkeys jumped out for its irreverent promise of creativity and the fact that one of the culinary genius “monkeys” was the most awarded chef in Portugal. Alas, the 14 seats had been filled for a very long time before I made my plans.
Poking my nose in before service revealed an intimate horseshoe around a cook space where a chef and dedicated sommelier could interact with the lucky diners looking on. I was mollified by the fact that Chef Matos developed the very menu I’d be dining on upstairs at Black Pavilion.
Duke’s Bar. Photo by Luis Ferras.
We kicked off our evening in a classic lounge with yet another gorgeous, carved, wooden ceiling with hand-painted insets. Duke’s exuded sophistication and elegance with a tempting cocktail and bites menu. Our fave was the Conde Castro Guimarães, a lovely libation of gin, lemon, green apple, and basil. Steps outside was the property’s expansive patio with endless views, which is where we headed to enjoy a fabulous evening.
The property’s fine dining restaurant has a gorgeous glass and black steel winter garden vibe. However, the patio views of dying sunset colors over the peekaboo sea view – as twinkling lights of the city grew bolder along the adjacent hill – were too enticing to pass up as a backdrop to our Black Pavillion dining experience. A balmy breeze nicely accented dishes like sea scallops with shrimp ravioli in a delicate wine sauce and traditional “Pil-Pil” fresh cod and chickpeas.
The Black Pavilion. Photo by Luis Ferras.
Finishing the meal with a port after a crime brûlée and vanilla olive oil with passionfruit offered the perfect end. Having enjoyed a sampling of creations designed by Chef Vitor Matos only solidified a plan to return for the full 2Monkey’s experience and to enjoy the charm of this special property again. (All 38 villas and suites are uniquely designed and decorated, so I figure I have at least 37 trips back to plan!)
At Taylor’s Port in Lisbon. Photo by Sascha Zuger.
Vintage Port Tasting
Taylor’s Port is one of the oldest of the port houses, established in 1692 with three estates adding their own unique terroir flair to each blend. Taylor’s waterfront tasting room in the historic Alfama district boasts a variety of tasting menus showing off their variety of vintage ports, tawny ports, rose port, and signature Chip Dry cocktail. Gourmet nibbles round out an exploration of the styles, accompanied by thoughtful explanations to share the history of the family and its port.
We opted for the Taylor’s Vintage Experience tasting. After a wine’s second spring, it’s considered by a council who decides if it’s of an outstanding quality worthy of being declared. On average, only three years of every decade meet the mark. The production from those declared years that are determined to be capable of evolving from an early seen structure and depth of flavor will mature into Taylor’s Vintage Ports.
We added a sheep’s milk cheese, pumpkin jam and hearty cracker plate to our sips and also sampled Taylor’s Chef’s Edition EVOO, produced from 17 hectares of olive trees grown on the same estates as the port.
A Fado singer in the underground cellar, Fado e Fado. Photo courtesy of the venue.
Fado For Days
The Portuguese tradition of fado is found widely in the winding cobblestone streets of its birthplace district of Alfama. After perusing reviews and the proximity to lovely Lisbon Sé Cathedral, we settled on our first of almost daily samples at Fado e Fado.
On arrival, we descended into a room featuring ancient stone arches of the city’s medieval wall and 11th century sea gate. We accepted delicate glasses of port (bottled water also offered) and took seats among the 40-odd chairs. The acoustics and low lighting added to the ambiance, with posters of famous fado singers and musicians lining the far wall.
No show is the same. Spontaneous “poem” choices were announced by performers, flanked by two musicians playing guitar and a unique 12-stringed instrument. These poems blurringly quick-pick’d out the wandering melody at the start of each ode like an opera overture. Humor, longing, passion – the charming 50-minute performance of traditional ballads – was a perfect introduction or starter before drinks in the lively neighborhood.
Phantom of the Opera in Lisbon. Photo by Giulia Marangoni.
¡Ole! to Theatre in the Round
On our drive in from the airport, we spotted Phantom of the Opera posters, noting that the touring Broadway show would appear at Sagres Campo Pequeno. The 1892 Neo-Moorish venue has a capacity of 10,000 and also hosts music concerts, kid-focused shows, Christmas markets, opera, fairs, and bullfighting. Intrigued by a theatre space that also doubles as a current bullfighting arena, we snagged tickets and joined a well-heeled crowd for Opening Night.
Outside of Sagres Campo Pequeno. Photo by Giulia Marangoni
Rings of seating rose from the floor, but other than the shape of the historic space, the transformation to Opera House of Paris was complete, with dramatic craggy organ-filled phantom-lair and joyful mirrored ballroom filled with a whirl of gorgeous costumes. The immense stage offered large side projections with closeups and Portuguese subtitles of the English production for those in the upper rings to have equally great views.
Coravin wine accessories. Photo courtesy of Coravin.
Coravin to the Rescue
I feel like I’m fairly immersed in the world of wine, but I learned during my Taylor’s Port tasting that a great vintage or tawny port should be ideally enjoyed the same day, if not within an extra day or two of opening. I admit we have had some tawny’s hanging about the place, offering a little sweet end to the day far longer than that.
Early in my career, I covered Coravin’s launch for one of the Condé Nast magazines. At that time, doing solo-mama duty, having a way to drink my bottles by the glass was fab, as I felt like enjoying it not because the bottle was already open. As Greg Lambrecht, inventor and co-founder of the wine lifesaver tech said, “I wanted to teleport wine out of a bottle.”
These days, I have plenty of help finishing a bottle, but we still slip into sharing a wine that might not go perfectly with our disparate app and main dish choices. The company has aged like wine, getting even better with new science-based accessories to keep multiple bottles fresh for years. In short, the Timeless Six+ is going on the Christmas list for my next Lisbon escape … even if I’ve been a naughty tawny tippler!
You might have heard of puppy yoga. Generally, you spend 30 minutes on yoga exercise and another 30 minutes playing with puppies. These puppies usually come from breeders, so each event features a specific breed.
Puppy Yoga Club holds these in a number of cities, including New York, throughout California, and in Boca Raton, Florida. I know that leaves a lot of you out, so check search engines for possible events happening in your area.
In New York City, my personal favorite is Puppy Jam. Held in a photography studio near Union Square, it includes a glass of wine, a live musician, and of course – puppies. You get to spend about an hour with the puppies, and the groups of people are small. This allows for a lot of play time.
Puppy Jam also has VIP tickets, which provide you with an additional 15 minutes of time with the puppies. I’ve done the VIP thing three times, and each time, I had 2-4 puppies all to myself for that period. Below is a video of some of my VIP time with dachshunds.
Most of the puppies are 8-10 weeks old, and like with Puppy Yoga, they usually come from breeders. Puppy Jam generally discloses the breed a day or two before each event. They have also held “rescue jams” with shelter dogs that need to be adopted.
The author at Puppy Jam, holding an Australian shepherd puppy. Photo courtesy of Puppy Jam.
For the breeders, these events are advantageous because it gives them a chance to socialize their puppies. For this reason, some of the young dogs I’ve encountered have been a bit shy at first.
My first experience with Puppy Jam was a rescue event with a number of different breeds. Some were puppies, while others were as old as two years. Only the youngest puppies were shy. The rest were ready to play.
At other Puppy Jam events, I have spent time with corgis, dachshunds, and Samoyeds. Check out a video of one of the corgi pups below.
My favorites were the dachshunds. While they were shy in the beginning, as soon as they learned about the wonder of belly rubs, they plopped over on their backs repeatedly, begging for pets. The video below shows the high energy dachshund puppies at play.
But all of my experiences with the puppies have been wonderful. Every time, it floods my system with feel-good chemicals, which is exactly the kind of infusion we all seem to need these days.
A Samoyed puppy at Puppy Jam. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
So if you’re a dog person, I can’t recommend events like this enough if there’s one happening near you. Watch a final video of the Samoyed puppies at Puppy Jam.
Athens, Greece is one of those must-see cities that truly does make you feel as though you’ve stepped into a time capsule. Here is my photographic tribute to this city like no other.
Photo by Melanie Votaw.Photo by Melanie Votaw.Photo by Melanie Votaw.Photo by Melanie Votaw.Photo by Melanie Votaw.Photo by Melanie Votaw.Photo by Melanie Votaw.Photo by Melanie Votaw.Photo by Melanie Votaw.Photo by Melanie Votaw.Ruins underneath the museum in Athens. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
