More cheese, NYC?Pick & Cheese from London is coming to NYC next year to the new food hall within the old Lord & Taylor store on Fifth Avenue. It will be called Shaver Hall, and while the cheese venue won’t yet be there, the hall itself will open this December 1st. This concept involves a conveyor belt of different kinds of artisanal cheese. Hmmm… Anyone been to the one in London?
Passport stamps. (Stock photo.)
The U.S. passport loses power. According to the Henley Passport Index, the U.S. passport is no longer in the top 10 in the world – for the first time ever. What’s #1? Singapore.
Travelers to Europe, watch for new scams! After several postponements, the new European Union EES entry and exit system went into effect this month. Unfortunately, scammers are pretending to offer it to travelers. ALWAYS go to the official website – never a third-party one.
New train service in New York. Metro North trains will run between Albany and Grand Central Station for the first time by spring 2026.
Louvre heist arrests. By now, you’ve no doubt heard about the priceless jewels that were stolen in broad daylight from the Louvre because of surveillance blind spots. Well, authorities have made a whopping seven arrests, but so far, the jewels have not been recovered.
The Louvre. Photo by Wanderer97.
Two tourists fall to their death. First, a Japanese tourist was visiting the Pantheon in Rome when he said he wasn’t feeling well. Then, he apparently lost his balance and fell. A British tourist fell from a hotel balcony in the Canary Islands when the railing broke. I have now made a mental note to never lean against a railing anywhere.
Natural disasters. There has been no shortage of natural disasters around the world. Horrible flooding in Alaska and Hurricane Melissa, devastating Jamaica and Cuba, are two of the biggest headliners of the month. Some homes in coastal North Carolina also collapsed.
Madagascar coup. I was supposed to visit Madagascar earlier this month, but protests began against the government. Then, the government began viewing the protesters as enemies of the state with the intention to shoot them. Some protesters were indeed killed. THEN, the president fled the country, and the military took over the government for the time being. Unfortunately, I had to cancel the trip.
Poisoned drinks. Not long ago, I reported about the death of a tourist who had a tainted drink while traveling. The United Kingdom’s Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office has issued warnings of alcoholic drinks laced with methanol in Ecuador, Japan, Kenya, Mexico, Nigeria, Peru, Russia, and Uganda. Be careful out there!
Airline News graphic created by Melanie Votaw in Canva.
Airline and Airport News
Beware of Delta’s new rule! From now on when you check in at the airport, you will need to present the physical credit card you used to purchase your flight. If not, you might have to pay again. No foolin’! This has been the case with some foreign airlines for a while, but the fact that Delta is now adding this security measure probably means other U.S. airlines will follow suit.
Yet another tarmac airplane collision. On October 27th, a United Airlines jet clipped a stationery jet on the tarmac at Chicago’s O’Hare Airport. The stationery jet contained no passengers, while the one in motion was taxiing to its arrival gate with 118 total passengers and crew members on board. No one was hurt.
Bed bugs in the air? Yep, that’s what happened to a passenger on Air India earlier this month. A light and bed bugs fell on the passenger, and the airline only offered $116 in compensation. Grrr… I’d ask you if you think that’s fair, but I think I know what your answer would be.
Pittsburgh’s renovated airport. The new terminal at PIT is set to open early next month. It took more than ten years and $1.7 billion to construct. if anyone checks it out soon, please report back!
Airplane. Stock photo.
Private jet service without the privacy? I’m not yet sure what to think about this, but a new Florida-based airline called Magnifica Air is planning a private jet-“style” service sometime next year with fewer seats, all of which will have leather lie-flat abilities. There will be private suites, a bar on board, a private terminal without long security lines, and a chauffeur to wait for you after you land. No word on how much this will set you back, but I’m sure it will be plenty of $. It will start in New York, Miami, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Dallas, Houston, and sometimes to the Caribbean and Napa Valley. If I ever have the chance to sample it, I’m here for it!
Delta Air Lines sues Marriott. Canada had a chain of hotels named “Delta” that Marriott acquired in 2015 and then expanded into the U.S. The airline is saying that the hotels dilute the Delta Air Lines brand. I have to admit I thought these hotels were indeed affiliated with the airline, so I think they have a good case against Marriott.
Long had I coveted taking a river cruise, and my dream was realized when we sailed the Legendary Rhine & Moselle (Mosel) with the top ranked UNIWORLD Boutique River Cruise Collection.The 13-day itinerary was aboard the River Queen, one of UNIWORLD’s fleet of luxurious ships that ply the rivers and waterways of the world. Their fleet covers 22 rivers in 26 countries.
The River Queen’s reception area. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Our cruise departed from Amsterdam and ended in Basel, Switzerland so SWISS Air International provided the best connections for us. After a comfortable flight, we arrived in Amsterdam. UNIWORLD offers transfer services from the airport to the ship, but we arrived a few days early to revisit the city. So instead, on the day of departure we were picked up promptly at our hotel, the Radisson Blu Hotel Amsterdam, and driven to the dock.
Our butler, Valentin. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Waiting for us was a long, sleek, white ship detailed with blue accents, as well as a warm and very welcoming staff. We entered into a handsome reception hall and were greeted by our personal butler, Valentin, outfitted in traditional dove grey morning coat, striped trousers, and gloves.
Valentin ushered us to our suite, but not before we had a chance to take in the lovely delft blue and white interiors and notice that they were well-maintained and beautifully decorated with handsome color-coordinated fabrics and furnishings.
Valentin explained the layout of the ship. There were 3 levels of accommodations, and we were situated in one of the 4 suites located on the top level. Our suite was decorated in the delft blue and white featured throughout the ship, with a wonderfully comfortable king- size bed, fabric walls, and matching headboard with plenty of closet space and drawers.
Our in-stateroom sideboard. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
There was an en-suite safe, refrigerator, digital clock radio, and flatscreen TV, although we had no time or interest in watching television when there was so much to see and so many new people to become acquainted with.
Our suite was also dressed with a Nespresso machine, supplies of coffee, tea, and hot chocolate, plus bowls of sweet treats and fruits. Every evening, a supply of just-baked cookies and fresh fruits were delivered while we were at dinner.
Our suite’s bathroom on board. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Our suite also had crystal carafes of whiskey, vodka, brandy, and a bottle of wine. But since there was an open bar in the lounge, we didn’t feel the need to imbibe in the privacy of our cabin. After all, cruising is very much a social enterprise.
Conveniently, Wi-Fi was available throughout the ship, and there was a computer station located in an alcove near the reception desk. A gift shop was located behind the reception for on-board shopping or forgotten personal items.
Our bathroom was large and well appointed with a hanging heated towel rack, English rainmaker showerhead, hair dryer, lighted make-up magnifying mirror, and Hermes amenities. Monogrammed towels were large and fluffy, and they were refreshed every time we left the cabin. The service was outstanding. From the attention of Valentin to the housekeeping staff (Ioana was our stateroom steward), every need was anticipated and promptly attended to, including same day laundry service.
The suite had large, clean, full-length windows, offering an unobstructed view of the passing scene. Digital controls opened the windows when the weather was nice and had the very important feature of movable screens to keep out bugs. But with the large lounge with an open, manned, liquor bar, and a 24/7 supply of treats and soft beverages, we spent little downtime in the cabin.
An automatic hot beverage machine in the lounge made wonderful hot chocolate, and I became addicted to adding 2 plump marshmallows to my cup before filling it with the delicious brew. One day, after returning from our daily city or castle tour, I headed for the marshmallow bowl and then to the beverage machine. By accident, I hit the cappuccino button … and voila! A new taste treat was born. Give it a try; it’s delicious!
A UNIWORLD cruise is cash-free, 5-star resort style, with an all-inclusive philosophy. Upon booking, you are sent a welcoming introduction package containing needed travel documents and ship layout, along with a detailed itinerary and highlights on ports of call, and daily excursions with the level of difficulty for each. They also include tips on weather, what to wear, customs, and other bits of knowledge that will aid in making the journey as carefree and enjoyable as possible.
UNIWORLD offers a one-stop, full-service travel facility and can arrange for air, hotels, transfers, tours, land extensions, etc. – literally everything you require in addition to the cruise package.
Getting on and off the ship was made easy with an electronic card, ensuring that we could come and go as we pleased when docked and that no one could board who was not authorized to do so. This also ensured that the ship would not depart without us.
Printed maps and daily schedules were placed on the reception desk to grab before each tour, and wireless communicators were given out on the first excursion to make receiving the guide’s commentary available to everyone on the tour.
And waiting to receive us back was our lovely Hotel Manager, Silvia Anghelescu, usually stationed behind the reception desk but always approachable when a question or special service needed attention. Silvia and the entire crew had worked together for many years and operated seamlessly like a family welcoming us into their home. The staff hailed from middle-European countries and spoke fluent English with slightly different accents but with universal smiles.
The large chess set on board the River Queen. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The size of UNIWORLD ships allow them to dock within walking distance of the myriad towns where we stopped along the river, and in addition to the daily guided walking tours, there was access to bicycles and Nordic walking sticks for exploring on our own. On the lower deck of the River Queen was an exercise room for those who preferred their bicycles stationary and a spa with Tihomir, a highly trained masseuse and well-being coach.
Afternoon tea (with the talented Brendan on the piano singing all of our favorites) was offered in the lounge daily and every evening prior to dinner and after the cocktail hour. Our effusive and highly knowledgeable Cruise Manager, Preston Coe, held sway, outlining the program for the following day.
Some days, in addition to the included tour, there would be an alternative special excursion for a fee, and Preston covered all the bases. Tours were always organized in small groups with one group “slow and easy” for those with difficulty traversing those pesky cobblestone streets and hills winding up and away from the river.
A pastry on the River Queen. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Breakfast was part buffet, part service with hot and cold dishes, and always a station for eggs the way you like them. Each morning, I had to make a decision to go for the thick, creamy oatmeal cooked just the way I like it or the smoked salmon with caper fruit on cream cheese bagels or the eggs Benedict or … well, there was so much to choose from, including fresh fruits, pastries, meats, and cheeses.
Every morning I would promise myself if I went heavy on breakfast, I would go light on lunch … until I saw what lunch consisted of. Lunch also was part buffet and part service with always a cooked meat offering, as well as soup, pasta, fish, and other hot dishes. I couldn’t help myself from tasting the local specialties in addition to a big salad from the always fresh ingredients. I did manage not to have dessert for lunch, although it was a hard decision.
A dessert tray on the River Queen. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Every night, dinner was a leisurely event with multiple gourmet offerings cooked to special order. A number of house wines were paired with the different dishes, and of course, selections from the bar were always available. All the produce was sourced locally, and selections were based on season and availability. One morning, when leaving the ship, we saw crates of mushrooms being loaded. At lunchtime, just-made mushroom soup was on the menu.
Beef Wellington on the River Queen. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
UNIWORLD is family-owned and constantly upgrading its ships, décor, itineraries, and menus, which likely accounts for why they are often named the Best Luxury River Cruise Line by the prestigious Cruise International Awards. So many of the guests we spoke with were multiple repeaters, having sailed all over the world with UNIWORLD and were still looking forward to future cruises.
This is a testimony to the attention to detail, the welcoming attitude, and the small intimate size of the ships, making each guest feel like a part of the UNIWORLD family.
I discovered Amarula on a trip to South Africa back in the late 1990s, and I’ve loved it ever since. It’s now available throughout the U.S. and many other countries.
Amarula is made from the marula fruit, which is a yellow, plum-sized fruit with white flesh. it’s rich in vitamin C and has a taste that’s both citrusy and nutty. The fruit is a favorite of elephants.
Since Amarula is a cream liqueur, you can drink it by itself on the rocks or use it as a substitute for Kahlua or Bailey’s for a different flavor. Or add it to any drink that includes Kahlua, Bailey’s, or another cream liqueur. Some people like it in grasshoppers.
It’s also an excellent addition to almost any fruity cocktail, especially a pineapple or banana concoction. If you use it in a daiquiri, you don’t have to leave out the rum, as Amarula tastes great with rum. Just add it for an additional zing.
Amarula is excellent in any chocolate cocktail. Photo by Semaka.
Amarula also tastes delicious in hot chocolate or in a chocolate martini with or without vodka.
Amarula tiramisu at Entim safari camp in Maasai Mara, Kenya. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
When baking, try Amarula in any recipe as a substitute for Kahlua, Bailey’s, or rum. I had it recently in Kenya in tiramisu. It was terrific! Simply substitute it for rum. Try it in our tiramisu recipe.
Have you ever had Amarula? How do you like to drink it? If not, let us know if you try it.
I recently spent a little time in Nairobi on my way to Maasai Mara. (I was supposed to visit Madagascar as well, but political unrest there caused me to cancel that part of my trip.)
Nairobi is a vibrant, busy, and cosmopolitan city with much to offer the visitor. If you go, be sure to check with your hotel if it’s safe to walk around the areas you’re interested in. I was told not all areas are safe. Also, give yourself extra time to go anywhere, as the traffic can become seriously backed up, leaving you stuck for 20 minutes or longer.
During my short stay, I managed to visit many of the city’s most popular tourist attractions, and with the exception of one, I found them all to be worthy of my time. Note, however, that non-residents pay more for each location, which is also the case at some places in the U.S.
A warning sign at the Giraffe Centre. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Giraffe Centre. This was a fun experience. When you enter, they hand you a small coconut shell filled with pellets made of corn, wheat, grass, and molasses. You can then walk to the feeding area where the giraffes are ready to take the pellets from your hand. Signs instruct you to place the pellets on the giraffe’s tongue and to watch out for head butts. Sure enough, I saw one of the giraffes trying to heat butt someone at the end of the video below.
Most of them were very sweet, however, and it was fun to feed them. Occasionally, one would consent to be petted, but that might also invite head butting! I also saw a couple of warthogs on the property.
The giraffes at the centre are endangered Rothschild’s giraffes, a specific species that has solid white stockings – i.e., no spots on the lower legs like the Maasai giraffes and some other types. The centre also has a nature trail (great for birdwatchers), a tea house, and a small gift shop.
The centre was founded in 1979 by the late Jock Leslie-Melville and his wife, Betty Leslie-Melville, who were concerned about the plight of the Rothschild’s giraffes. It’s run by the Kenyan non-profit, Africa Fund for Endangered Wildlife (A.F.E.W.), so it’s a worthwhile cause.
The Karen Blixen house, now museum. The outside of the house was used in the film, Out of Africa. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Karen Blixen Museum. Author Karen Blixen and the subject of the film based on her book, Out of Africa, starring Meryl Streep and Robert Redford, is revered in Kenya. Many businesses and even a hospital in the area surrounding the museum are named “Karen” after her. The museum is her former home in Kenya where she also had her coffee plantation.
A vintage tractor at the Karen Blixen Museum. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
A personal guide took me around the property and gave me a history of Mrs. Blixen. It was a fascinating visit. The exterior of the house was used in the film, and there are several large artifacts on the grounds, such as the coffee processing machine from the era. You aren’t allowed to take photos inside the house, but it was quite luxurious for the time period.
The women at work at the Kazuri Beads Factory. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Kazuri Beads Factory. This was one of my most enjoyable experiences in Nairobi. It’s a women-run business that was founded in 1975 by Lady Susan Wood, starting with just two employees. By the late 1980s, it employed more than 100 people. “Kazuri” means “small and beautiful” in Swahili, and the women who work at the factory are mostly single mothers.
They primarily make beaded jewelry but also a few figurines out of eco-friendly clay from Mount Kenya. All of the beads are handmade, fired, painted, and strung at the factory. You can buy the beads online, but if you’re in Nairobi, it’s worth a visit to meet the women and choose your own beads. Then, one of them will help you string your own necklace. I had great fun with the woman who helped me. She said she’s been working there for 15 years and enjoys it immensely. The women have a lot of fun together, she told me.
The necklace I designed at Kazuri Beads Factory. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
As you can see, the beads are stunning, and there’s a wide variety of colors available to spark your creativity. An 18″ necklace costs less than $40US.
Nairobi National Park. No visit to Nairobi is complete without taking a game drive through Nairobi National Park. This remarkable green space in the middle of the metropolitan city houses big game, including elephants, lions, and other big cats. You can even potentially get a photo of large African animals with the Nairobi skyline in the background. The video below shows an ostrich near a railway bridge that goes through the park.
The park is fenced on just three of its sides, while the fourth side, which empties into a river, is open. This allows the animal species populations to self-regulate without management.
Since I was going to Maasai Mara on safari, I didn’t feel the need to see big game in the park, but I was immensely interested in the bird life, as Nairobi has many species that Maasai Mara does not. Nevertheless, I also saw some mammals in the park that I didn’t see in Maasai Mara. So it’s definitely worth a visit.
A little bee eater in Nairobi National Park. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Entrance to the park can take a while, however. They have an online system where you have to register with a lot of your personal information and pay in advance. I couldn’t get it to work ahead of time, so it took a bit of time with the park’s personnel to get that straightened out.
A young orphaned elephant enjoys a mud bath at the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. This facility within Nairobi National Park requires a prior reservation and a cash donation of $20US. You also have to pay for entrance into the national park, so you can potentially combine a visit to Sheldrick with a visit to the park itself. Sheldrick is a sanctuary for orphaned elephants, many of them very young, and it’s only open from 11:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. daily.
This was a delightful experience. We all stood around an area where the elephants enjoyed rolling around in mud while one of the handlers gave us a lecture about the animals and their life at Sheldrick. It was comical to watch them (and a little dusty at times). You can even pet an elephant a little bit there.
It’s an excellent cause to support, as they work toward reintegrating each elephant into the wild. You can also adopt an elephant there from afar.
A vintage train at the Nairobi Railway Museum. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The Nairobi Railway Museum. This interesting museum has small exhibits indoors and old trains on tracks outdoors. It tells the story of the railway system in Kenya, and it also contains some vintage telephones and typewriters. as well as some other artifacts. If you’re interested in trains or history, you’ll enjoy this one.
A display at the Nairobi Railway Museum. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Maasai Market. Since I was going to Maasai Mara, I didn’t visit this market, but you might want to give it a look while you’re in the city. I understand it contains handmade artwork that you can buy as gifts or for yourself.
The Nairobi National Museum. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Nairobi National Museum. This museum is interesting for all ages. It contains a Cradle of Humankind gallery about evolution, exhibits about Eastern African birds and mammals, and exhibits about the history of Kenya, as well as a small snake farm with live snakes. I was a bit disappointed in the snake farm, however. Most of them are behind dirty glass that makes it hard to see them.
During my recent visit to Kenya, I stayed at three different 5-star hotels in order to be able to report on them. Here is my assessment of each.
The lobby of the Sarova Stanley Hotel in Nairobi. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Sarova Stanley Hotel. This historic property is located on a busy street, but my room wasn’t noisy. Built in 1902, it was the place where the late Queen of England gave her first public address as Queen and the home of the first stock exchange in Kenya. Guests have included Karen Blixen, Ernest Hemingway, Clark Gable, Grace Kelly, Ava Gardner, Sidney Poitier, and Sean Connery.
My room at the Sarova Stanley Hotel. Photo by Melanie Votaw.The sitting area in my room at the Sarova Stanley. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Since it was my first hotel during my time in Nairobi, they arranged for a car to pick me up at the airport and transport me upon my arrival. After a 14-hour flight, there’s comfort in seeing someone standing there with your name on a card. This transfer was quite reasonable at only $40US, and the amount was conveniently added to my total hotel bill.
The lovely Thorn Tree Cafe where breakfast is served at the Sarova Stanley. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
My stay there was very comfortable, although the building is quite old, so you won’t find any USB ports in the room. Nevertheless, it’s a beautiful hotel with a lovely breakfast room that served traditional Kenyan dishes cooked over hot coals one morning. All of the food served at the hotel was excellent. I especially loved the chicken sandwich – simple but exceptional.
A staff member at the Sarova Stanley made traditional triangular, deep-fried bread called mandazi for our breakfast. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The service at this hotel was also extremely fine. One day, I left before breakfast, and one of the hotel’s staff noticed and worried about me. She sent someone up to my room to make sure I was okay.
An opera cake from the bakery and coffee counter at the Sarova Stanley. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A view of the entrance of the Villa Rosa Kempinski from the property’s front door. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Villa Rosa Kempinski Hotel. This beautiful property is pink with a sculpted garden at the entrance and a small, narrow garden in the back. The interior is large, and it has a lovely cafe in the lobby from which I got a croissant in the mornings. The room was more modern than the Sarova Stanley, and the food was very fine. My first room service order arrived on a wheeled table covered with a tablecloth and included a fresh flower in a vase.
The lobby of the Villa Rosa Kempinski. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The staff at this hotel was also very attentive and helpful. In fact, at all of the hotels in Kenya, I found the attentiveness of the staff to be better than any I’d had anywhere else in the world.
My room at the Villa Rosa Kempinski. Photo by Melanie Votaw.The other side of my room at the Villa Rosa Kempinski. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The one drawback to the Villa Rosa Kempinski was that it’s located on a highway, which didn’t make it particularly walkable.
The small garden behind the Villa Rosa Kempinski. Photo by Melanie Votaw.The lobby at Fairmont The Norfolk. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Fairmont The Norfolk Hotel. This property is also historic. Built in 1904 in a Tudor style, it incorporates a few buildings with a gorgeous garden in the center. The garden contains vintage rickshaws from the early days in Kenya, as well as a vintage car. Like the Sarova Stanley, many famous people have stayed at the Fairmont, including Theodore Roosevelt, David Niven, Richard Burton, Water Cronkite, James Stewart, Michael Caine, Mick Jagger, and Robert Redford.
The Fairmont’s lobby includes a piano. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The lobby of the main building is stunning with a piano, a bar, and lots of lounging couches and chairs. There are three restaurants, and the breakfast buffet is especially fine with many choices, including pancakes and eggs made to order. I also loved that passionfruit juice was a common offering at breakfast.
My room at Fairmont The Norfolk. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Another view of my room at Fairmont the Norfolk. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
My room was also lovely with a small balcony containing a table and two chairs. Again, the staff was exceptionally attentive, and the food was wonderful. My only complaint is a drawback to that special garden – mosquitos in my room. I felt the need to wear deet on my face overnight, yet I still got a couple of bites. I didn’t even have that problem in my luxury tent at the Maasai Mara safari camp.
My balcony at Fairmont The Norfolk. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
But every time I visited that garden, I decided the mosquitos were worth it. Malaria is certainly a possibility in Nairobi, but it’s rare.
A portion of the garden at Fairmont The Norfolk. Photo by Melanie Votaw.The vintage car in the Fairmont’s garden. Photo by Melanie Votaw.The breakfast buffet at the Fairmont. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
So … which of these three hotels would I recommend the most? Honestly, I don’t think I could choose. I enjoyed all three and can’t imagine you’d be disappointed with any of them. All of them have restaurants with excellent food, a spa, a gym, and free WiFi.
Note that security is intense throughout Nairobi. At both the Villa Rosa Kempinski and the Fairmont, cars were searched before they were allowed to drive up to the entrances. At the Kempinski, they even used a car-sniffing dog. The Sarova Stanley did not have a drive-up entrance. Instead, its entrance was close to the street, so I was dropped at the curb.
Of the three, the Villa Rosa Kempinski was the most expensive, but the prices of 5-star hotels in Nairobi are generally lower than in many cities around the world, such as New York, Paris, or London – possibly even less than $200US per night depending on the time of year you visit.
Lake Nakuru is a three-hour drive from Nairobi in Kenya and is famous for its flamingos. You have to be there at the right time of year to see huge flocks of the flamingos, however. By the time I was there in early October, many of them had already migrated away from the lake. There were still some there, though, along with chicks and dozens of other water birds. Unfortunately, the numbers of flamingos at any time of year have been reduced at the lake because the fish they eat have been over-fished by humans.
An African buffalo with flamingos at Lake Nakuru. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The lake itself is not the only thing to see at Lake Nakuru. It’s actually a national park that contains numerous large animals. I saw lots of antelopes and zebras there, including some animals that I missed at Maasai Mara. For example, Lake Nakuru’s park has wild Rothschild’s giraffes, while I only saw Maasai giraffes in Maasai Mara.
An African spoonbill at Lake Nakuru. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A secretary bird in Lake Nakuru National Park. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I saw few baboons in Maasai Mara, but I got to see several of them, including babies, wrestling with each other at Lake Nakuru’s park. I also missed vervet monkeys at Maasai Mara, but saw plenty of them at Lake Nakuru, as well as Grant’s gazelles, which were new to me.
Baby baboons playing in Lake Nakuru National Park. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A white rhino at Lake Nakuru National Park. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I hired a private guide for the day who picked me up at my hotel in Nairobi and took me on a game drive through the park, after which we went to another nearby location – Lake Naivasha. I took a boat ride there for about an hour and saw numerous bird species. The guide manning my boat took a fish with him, whistled to a fish eagle in a nearby tree, and threw the fish in the water. The eagle then flew down and grabbed the fish with its talons – so fast that there was no way to get a photograph or even a video. But it was fun to see!
Fish eagles at Lake Naivasha. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
There were also hippos in Lake Naivasha, but of course, we couldn’t approach them closely because it’s dangerous. The boat ride was very peaceful, and it was a beautiful day.
Lake Naivasha. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A waterbok at Lake Naivasha. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Afterwards, another guide took me on a safari walk around the lake area, where I saw waterbok antelopes – a species I hadn’t seen elsewhere. Since there are no predators in this area, It was also possible to get quite close to the zebras, antelopes, and a wildebeest who has been at Lake Naivasha since he was in the film, Out of Africa, in the 1980s. He hasn’t had to deal with predators since that time, so he has been living a life of leisure.
A great white pelican at Lake Naivasha.Vervet monkeys grooming each other at Lake Naivasha. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The place also currently has an orphaned zebra colt that I was able to feed and pet. She is being raised with horses, and I’m not sure if she will be able to return to the wild.
The orphaned zebra colt at Lake Naivasha. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
This day trip from Nairobi was very long, however, and it involved a lot of sitting in the vehicle. On the way back to Nairobi, we got caught in terrible rush hour traffic with lots of trucks on the road. So you might want to ask your guide to go back earlier, or simply brace yourself for a potential 14-hour day that starts at 6:00 a.m. Nevertheless, it was worth it to visit these locations. There are also fascinating and beautiful views along the way. You will pass through numerous villages, as well as by mountains and farms.
Iceland’s PLAY Airlines. The low-cost carrier in Iceland ceased operations at the end of last month and cancelled all upcoming flights.
Akuyeri in northern Iceland. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Delta plane collision. Two Delta planes collided at low speed at New York City’s LaGuardia Airport on October 2nd. A flight attendant was slightly injured, part of a wing was torn off, and the cockpit was damaged.
New longest flight in the world. Singapore Airlines’ flight between Singapore and NYC’s JFK is no longer the longest flight in the world. Now, Xiamen Airlines has a 19-hour, 20-minute flight from JFK to Fuzhou (FOU) in southern China.
International News
Mount Everest snowstorm. Hundreds of hikers were stranded on the lower slopes of Mount Everest earlier this month after a surprise severe snowstorm. As of now, China says all have been rescued.
Earthquakes in the Philippines. Two powerful earthquakes have killed people this month in the Philippines. If you’re planning to travel there, check the areas you plan to visit to make sure it’s still a good idea.
Rising overtourism. Amsterdam is the latest city to have protests against overtourism.
New tax in Kyoto, Japan for travelers. Speaking of overtourism, Kyoto will implement a new hotel tax in March 2026. It will range from 200 yen for budget hotels to 10,000 yen in luxury hotels.
Kyoto, Japan. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Madagascar political unrest. I was supposed to visit Madagascar early this month after my visit to Kenya, but I had to cancel due to political unrest there. The president of the country believes the protesters and military are attempting a coup. I hope the ultimate outcome is good for the people.
Travelers and artificial intelligence. BBC has reported that artificial intelligence used to create travel itineraries is sometimes sending travelers to dangerous locations or sites that don’t exist. Please be careful when using AI for your itinerary. Check everything!
Gellert Hotel. The Gellert Hotel in Budapest has closed its famous thermal baths for renovations until 2028.
Frida Kahlo museum. There’s a new museum in Mexico City, Museo Casa Kahlo, focused on the early life of artist Frida Kahlo. Her home, the famous Casa Azul, focuses more on her later life while she was with Diego Rivera.
Grand Canyon North Rim. After the wildfire this summer that destroyed Grand Canyon Lodge, the North Rim has reopened in part. Highway 67, Cape Royal Road, and Fire Point are now open, while North Kaibab Trail, Widforss, Transept, Bridle Path, Ken Patrick Trail (south of Cape Royal Road), and Uncle Jim Loop remain closed.
Egypt. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
New Egypt discovery. A sunken port near the ruins of the Taposiris Magna Temple west of Alexandria was recently discovered. Archaeologists believe it was a maritime hub during the time of Cleopatra.
Travel to India. If you’re planning a trip to India, you will now have to complete an online form 72 hours before you arrive.
From the island of Hispaniola, the home-base for some of the most notorious pirates – Henry Morgan, Blackbeard, Anne Bonny, Calico Jack, and Bartholomew Roberts – came a very enjoyable rum that would have been great booty for any privateer of the 16th or 17th centuries.
Ron Barceló Imperial Rum is produced in what is now the Dominican Republic (the Eastern part of Hispaniola), using column stills before being blended and aged in whisky and bourbon barrels. It’s made from the best selection of Dominican sugarcane juice.
Enjoy this premium rum with a little water the same way you would a single malt whisky. A little cold water gives the rum the best sipping experience.
In a glass, the rum presents a rich copper bronze color with hints of gold and mahogany. The nose is light and gentle. Vanilla, bittersweet chocolate, and some smoky oak notes are complemented by pear, grapefruit, lemon zest, and ginger. It’s quite nicely balanced with sweet toffee, brown spices, mocha, and a strong toasted flavor that slowly fades. The finish is long and textured with hints of cedar and cigar box.
Some of the producer’s promotion states that the rum uses elements that are up to 6 years old, but a number of reviewers and the producer’s web site give an age of up to 10 years. In my opinion, the distillery is trying to make a consistent flavor profile for the rum, and their blend is about taste.
Barcelo Imperial rum. Photo courtesy of the company.
The rum is sold in an eye-catching box display. Inside the box is a large, elegant, flat, stubby flask with a large cork stopper. I consider this to be a complex and original rum whose flavor will appeal to many individuals.
The Caribbean produces many great tasting rums or rhums – the spelling differs with the language of the locals.
Every island has its own sugarcane production, and depending on the soil and production methods, rums look and taste different from island to island. Many producers use column stills, while others still prefer an alembic to distill the spirit.
Some producers also use secondhand oak barrels that previously held bourbon, a single malt, port, or sherry to impart to their rum unique aromas and taste, while others use stainless steel and/or neutral oak. In most cases, white un-aged rum is used in cocktails, while darker rums, mostly distilled from sugarcane molasses, are savored with a small splash of water or a single ice-cube.
I have a collection of rums from different islands I have visited, and I can attest that no two taste exactly the same. From what is now Haiti on the western half of Hispaniola, Rhum Barbancourt Estate Reserve, a 15-year-old, is a great sipping rum.
In contrast, their white and 3-year-old rums are used as cocktail bases for hurricanes, frozen daiquiris, piña coladas or Cuba libres (rum and Coke). Rum seems to blend well with most ingredients and stays mostly in the background.
From Tortola, I like Sebastian’s Rum. It’s actually produced in Freeport, Grand Bahama Island under license from Tortola’s “Sebastian’s on the Beach” Hotel. The legend is that centuries ago, Sebastian, the notorious pirate, was shipwrecked at Little Apple Bay, Tortola. As he lay on the beach, casks of rum floated to the shore. He mixed the rum with juices from tropical fruits that grew nearby, and that was the beginning of that drink.
Rum cocktail.
The most intriguing of the cocktails that have rum is the Rum Runner. It has a distinct tropical taste, but the spicy rum that is in the mix adds complexity. The ingredients are dark rum, white rum, crème de banana liqueur, blackberry liqueur, orange juice, pineapple juice, lime juice, and grenadine! Quite a blend, but it’s a very refreshing summer libation.
My time in Kenya’s Maasai Mara was nothing short of sublime. I hope these photos and videos will give you a taste of what it was like. Also check out my review of Entim safari camp in the Mara.
A leopard in Maasai Mara. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A superb starling in Maasai Mara. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Hippos in Maasai Mara. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
A mother topi starts to head butt her little one, who jumps in reaction. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Zebras and wildebeests. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
A cheetah in Maasai Mara. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A pile of lionesses enjoying the shade of a tree. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A lioness in Maasai Mara. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
A leopard in a tree in Maasai Mara. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A jackal in Maasai Mara. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A hyena eats a topi while surrounded by vultures and storks, waiting for the leftovers. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A one-week-old baby elephant with its mother in Maasai Mara. Photo by Melanie Votaw.An elephant at sunset in Maasai Mara. Photo by Melanie Votaw.An eland in Maasai Mara. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A buffalo in Maasai Mara. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
A 30-minute flight with SafariLink from Wilson Airport in Nairobi dropped me at an airstrip near the Maasai Mara National Reserve, where my guide, Jamlick, picked me up and drove me to Entim Camp, a luxury safari accommodation within the Reserve. We drove through some bumpy terrain, including a couple of creeks. “Sorry for the Africa massage,” he said, laughing.
What I didn’t realize was that my safari had already started, as we stopped to view the animals we encountered along the way. Most notable was an up close view of a group of elephants, who walked around us, completely unbothered by our jeep.
A salad at Entim. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
We arrived at the camp around lunch time, and I was escorted to my tent for my two-night stay. My bags were delivered, and someone explained the room to me, although there wasn’t much to explain. As I looked around, I thought, “Wow, this is TRULY glamping!” There was electricity, a fully functioning toilet, a hot shower, lots of room for sitting, and my own personal veranda.
My tent at Entim. Photo by Melanie Votaw.The zippers that closed my tent. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The tent closed with horizontal zippers at the bottom and a vertical zipper at the center. I was amazed that the interior stayed virtually bug-free during my stay, even though there were no mosquito nets over the two twin beds. At night, they lowered a second layer of canvas around my tent, which meant I had two zippers at the entrance. This provided privacy for the night.
A sitting area in my tent at Entim. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Another sitting area in my tent at Entim. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Months before my arrival when I made my reservation, I asked them to place me in a tent close to the main tent since I would be traveling alone. They remembered and accommodated me with the tent right next to the lounge and dining tent.
My personal veranda outside my tent. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
At night, the hippos come out of the water and hang out close to the camp. For that reason, after dark, you aren’t allowed to walk anywhere on your own. When I was ready for dinner, I stepped out on my veranda and flashed the provided flashlight. One of the Maasai staff members then came to escort me to the main tent. Sure enough, my second night, with the help of the flashlight, we could see the hippos not that far away in my “backyard.”
My tent’s bathroom. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
But don’t worry – hippos aren’t carnivores, so they have no interest in approaching the tents or trying to get in. They are indeed very aggressive, but only when they feel threatened. When I did a safari in Kruger National Park many years ago, we couldn’t walk alone at night because the lions came close to the camp.
My tent’s shower. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
For meals, I had the same server throughout my stay – a soft-spoken gentleman named Charles. I was presented with a menu of three courses. There were three choices for each course. Every meal during my stay, the choices changed, and everything I ate was absolutely delicious. The chef visited my table a couple of times, and I had to gush about his talent.
Tilapia at Entim, served with homemade tartar sauce and mango salsa. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Tilapia is abundant in Kenya, and Entim served the best version of it I’ve ever had. I also especially enjoyed the tiramisu made with Amarula, an African liqueur, instead of the usual rum.
Amarula tiramisu at Entim. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I had a little bit of time to relax before meeting Jamlick in the main tent for our first official game drive at 4:00. He returned me just before 7:00 for dinner. The next day, we set out at 6:00 a.m. and kept going until 1:30 p.m. because we kept running into incredible animals and because I wanted to visit the nearby Maasai village.
The village was fascinating. Both men and women were singing a song of greeting when I arrived, and the men showed us the jumping they’re famous for. Then, they showed me how they make fire without a match and invited me into one of their huts. I was surprised to find that the people in this particular village are still living quite primitively with no hot water or plumbing.
A mother and child at the Maasai village. They invited us to take as many photos as we wanted. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
They told me that a U.S. charity had come to teach them English so that they could communicate well with tourists. They had also been given a small solar light so that their children could see to do their homework at night.
They keep cattle and chickens but said they aren’t allowed to grow vegetables because the crops would likely attract too many wild animals. So the money they receive from tourists allows them to buy the vegetables they need. They also make all sorts of goods for sale to tourists. I ended up spending the equivalent of $100 because they had so many beautiful things. I bought two necklaces, a little bowl, and a small wooden elephant mask for my wall.
The beaded necklace I bought at the Maasai village. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
During my game drives with Jamlick, I had a great time joking with him. He had an extraordinary facility for predicting animal behavior, but then, he grew up in the Mara, was educated there, and has now been working for 11 years as a safari guide. I said, “This is your place.”
“Yes, this is my place,” he agreed.
When someone radioed to tell him they’d found leopards, he positioned our vehicle next to one that was lounging in some brush while most of the other jeeps were positioned close to one in a tree. The one close to me was the mother of the young male in the tree, who had carried his gazelle kill up there and draped it across the center. Eventually, he stepped out on a branch and lounged there. I couldn’t believe the branch was strong enough to hold his weight.
We stayed there for about an hour, as Jamlick felt strongly that the mother leopard would eventually get up, walk right past us, and make her way to the tree. Sure enough, the young male finally climbed down the tree, and Mom walked right by my window before joining him. Again, she was utterly unbothered by our vehicles.
Black rhino in Maasai Mara. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I was lucky on my second day to see all Big Five animals in that single day, which I was told is highly unusual there. While it’s common to see lions, elephants, and buffalos, it isn’t as easy to find leopards. Finding a rhinoceros is even more unusual, but sure enough, during my last evening drive, we found a black rhino. This was an animal who was indeed bothered by our vehicles, however. I was told this species of rhino is shy and likes to hide.
During my game drives, I saw a male lion, two prides of female lionesses, tons of zebras, Thomson’s gazelles, topi antelopes, eland antelopes, impalas, baboons, warthogs, wildebeests, cheetahs, elephants (including a one-week-old baby), hippos, hyenas, a lone jackal, and lots of birds (including ostriches).
Highlights included watching a cheetah running after zebras in the distance (he was not successful), a hippo running at high speed out of a body of water, a hyena eating a topi surrounded by vultures, and a pair of male giraffes fighting over a female. See my photo and video essay for more images and footage of my experience.
When it was time to leave, I was a bit heartbroken that I had only booked two nights at Entim. Driving around the quiet Reserve was sublime, only to return to the camp for beautiful food and a good night’s sleep in my tent. The manager and other personnel checked in with me several times to make sure I was happy with my stay. The following is a video of the main tent area at Entim.
Besides game drives and visits to the Maasai village, Entim can also arrange a hot air balloon ride over the Reserve.
I would be more than happy to return to Entim camp and stay longer. it was truly a perfect stay with nothing whatsoever to complain about. If you’re looking for a safari camp in Maasai Mara, I highly recommend that you consider Entim.
