The scent of sweetgrass wafted past my nose as the wolf raced excitedly down the path. I was hiking in a forest in Golden, British Columbia with two wolves – a singular experience if ever there was one. The wolves are two of six captive animals at the Northern Lights Wildlife Wolf Centre in Golden, which is one hour from Banff National Park and less than three hours west of Calgary.
It was August, and the temperature was comfortably in the 70s Fahrenheit. Our two wolf companions were named Maya and Wiley. Maya was very reticent and kept her distance, while Wiley was almost as friendly as a puppy.
A wolf at Northern Lights Wildlife Wolf Centre. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
At one point, he became interested in my fanny pack and began to chew on it. I wasn’t at all afraid, however. Wiley was raised in a zoo and is very accustomed to people. I wasn’t afraid of Maya either, but she was certainly a bit afraid of me and wanted to know where I was at all times.
Wolves may look like dogs at first glance, but if you pay just the slightest bit of attention, you can tell that these are not really domesticated animals. In fact, wolves sometimes eat dogs. While the wolves at Northern Lights were all born and bred in captivity and cannot be released into the wild as a result, they still maintain most of their wild nature. Northern Lights serves as a sanctuary, adopting animals that would otherwise have nowhere to go.
A wolf at Northern Lights Wildlife Wolf Centre. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The Centre takes the animals into schools to educate children about wolves, and it allows visitors to view the animals in their 1.25-acre enclosure for a nominal fee. This includes a 20-minute talk about wolves.
My experience was the more expensive romp in the woods with the animals through an organization called Blackwolf Photography. For $380, two of us could spend 1-1/2 hours with the wolves, taking all the photographs we wanted. Even with a simple camera, you can get images that will be the envy of all your friends, but it’s the experience of walking in this majestic setting with these equally majestic animals that is priceless and indescribable.
Casey Black, who runs the Centre, says that many visitors are moved to tears from the experience. I don’t know of any other place where you can stroll with wolves in the woods off leash, so it’s certainly something I will never forget and will gladly return to experience again.
For safety reasons, children are not allowed on these hikes, but mature teens 16 and up can participate. Nevertheless, the wolves came to Casey immediately whenever he called them, and he carried meat with him to feed them periodically.
Golden, British Columbia. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Of course, the wolf experience is not all that the town of Golden has to offer. It’s set in the heart of six national parks and three mountain ranges within the Canadian Rockies, and the landscape alone makes it worth the trip. But this small town of 4,000 people has an almost staggering number of available activities for the active traveler.
In winter, there is downhill and cross-country skiing, backcountry skills training, snowboarding, snowmobiling, ice fishing, snowshoeing, and ice climbing. In summer, you can explore in a 4×4, golf, raft, tube, mountain bike, kayak, canoe, paraglide, hike, heli-hike, climb, fish, ride horses, or enjoy a river and wetland tour. Wildlife viewing is a year-round activity.
Of the few manmade sites in Golden, there is the Golden BC Museum, which chronicles the history of the town and its connection to the Canadian Pacific Railway. Kicking Horse Pedestrian Bridge spans the Kicking Horse River in the town and is the longest freestanding timber frame bridge in Canada.
Incidentally, Kicking Horse River is one of Canada’s fastest whitewater rafting rivers. There is also a Swiss Village called Edelweiss. Considering the alpine landscape of this region, it’s no surprise that many people from Switzerland felt comfortable in Golden and decided to settle there.
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort from a ski lift. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
While in town, I stayed at Golden’s spectacular Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, a four-season resort with the highest sightseeing gondola in British Columbia at more than 8,000 feet. The Kicking Horse Bike Park has the highest elevation and longest vertical in Canada.
The Eagle’s Eye Restaurant at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I had lunch one day at The Eagle’s Eye Restaurant, which stands at 7,700 feet on the grounds of the Resort and is the highest restaurant in the entire country. The restaurant features a 360-degree view, so you can enjoy the gorgeous scenery while you munch on delicious food. I ordered something simple and had the best burger I believe I’ve ever had.
This was one of three burgers that I ate while in Golden because there is simply nothing like Alberta beef. Golden is very close to the border of British Columbia and Alberta, so the restaurants all serve Alberta beef. Ordinarily, I eat very little red meat, but this beef is just too flavorful and juicy to pass up.
While the Resort is primarily a skiing destination in winter, it has become an increasingly popular mountain biking destination in summer. Kicking Horse is largely self-contained with several restaurants and a village with a group of shops that carry sporting gear, food, and toiletries.
I stayed at the Palliser Lodge, one of four lodges on the Resort grounds. There are also condominiums and the Eagle’s Eye Suites at 7,700 feet that include penthouse accommodations.
My suite at Palliser was like a one-bedroom apartment. It contained a lovely bedroom with a television, a spacious living room with a second television, and a full functioning kitchen that included a small washer and dryer. I really appreciated the ability to wash my clothes. As a New Yorker accustomed to small apartments, I could easily have lived there, especially considering the view of mountains and tall coniferous trees outside my windows.
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The Resort also maintains the largest grizzly bear refuge in the world. It contains just one bear named Boo, who was orphaned by a poacher. His large refuge is fenced so that visitors can watch him safely (when he’s in sight.)
The Resort periodically drops food into the refuge from the ski lifts so that the bear can still hunt for his food as he would in the wild. The ski lifts are not the only way to get to the mountaintops at Kicking Horse, however. The Golden Eagle gondolas transport about 600 skiers and visitors every hour, and each one holds eight people.
The Resort provides special packages that can include ski instruction and personal valet service. Prices vary greatly depending on the accommodations you choose, and there is quite a bit of variety available. Golden was on the Olympic torch path, and the town celebrated the 2010 Winter Games with numerous events.
This town is one of those places that’s off the beaten path but which has much to offer if you love the outdoors. I visited in summer but hope to go back in winter to see that beautiful landscape covered with snow and perhaps romp with the wolves once again – this time in the white powder.
In Bergen, standing in one of the narrow alleys of Bryggen, gazing up at some of the old Hanseatic League warehouses, I recalled that this was once the biggest cod-packing facility in all of Europe. Then, as I lowered my gaze, I could almost catch a glimpse of the nearby harbor market, now a world-class venue for seafood lovers from all over the world.
From a visit a couple of years ago, I remember sumptuous displays of fish, explained with signs in as many as eight languages, and as an indispensable part of the Bergen experience, breakfast al fresco – rundestycke med laks (fresh-baked rolls with smoked salmon), boiled shrimp, and cooked crab.
And how could I forget the restaurant across the street? Its commitment to seafood was such that the only meat dish was called “No Fish Ohlsen” and served begrudgingly at a discouragingly high cost. And what about that gravlax we once ate in Trondheim?
Though well aware of Norway’s dedication to seafood and its preparation, my wife Roxie and I were still not ready for the all-out excellence of Cornelius.
Sara at the fish tank tower at Cornelius. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
Established in 2004 by Chef Alf Roald Saetre and Odd Einar Tufteland (known as “Shellfish Man” and the third generation in a family of shellfish farmers), Cornelius is a dining destination on the island of Bjorøy, a 20-minute boat ride from Bergen. Appropriately, the restaurant sits on a quay, overlooks a fjord, and boasts a small sea farm.
On the quay, the moment we stepped off the boat, we were treated to fresh oysters and drinks. Fish swirled in the water tanks next to us, and just feet away arose a small shellfish tower. After we had been seated indoors, I was taken to the tower by a charming waitress and shown live lobsters, crabs, and other shellfish.
Scallops at Cornelius. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
Before returning to my seat, I was asked to pick my own scallop. I did, and minutes later, it arrived at our table as an extra appetizer, neatly arranged on a rectangular plate, complete with a generous bowl of sea salt. Down it went, along with a deep swallow of Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve 2001. Succulent!
And so was the rest of the dinner, which began with trout mousse on a bed of spinach with truffle and shrimp, marinated in orange mango salsa.
Catfish at Cornelius. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
Baked catfish followed. A little tomato flavoring was added to the white wine sauce, and chanterelle mushrooms, asparagus, carrots, and small boiled potatoes came with the dish. The waitress pointed out that these were called French potatoes in Norway, famous for their light sweetness.
Our wine was then a Chablis J. Moreau & Fils 2007, and things could hardly be better. Outside, dusk was falling. Not any dusk, but the soft lingering twilight of a Scandinavian summer evening. Inside, dessert was coming.
The trout mousse at Cornelius. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
It was a worthy completion of our meal – a rhubarb and plum tart in a crunchy crumble with cinnamon and brown sugar, topped with a couple of strawberries and sour cream and, for a touch of elegance, a sprig of mint.
This feast in the Norwegian archipelago did not come cheap, but it was an experience we wouldn’t want to have missed. Going back to Bergen, I kept thinking of that scallop, alive and well, sacrificing its life so that I could indulge myself.
A waitress at Cornelius holding a dessert. Photo by Bo Zaunders.
Cornelius is situated on a small island and is not accessible by car. So it’s important to make reservations. Unless you have your own boat, the restaurant will make arrangements for you to get there by boat taxi from central Bergen.
The Merchant’s House is the only 19th century home in New York City that has been preserved intact with the family’s original furniture and objects. I have lived in NYC for decades, and I only recently found out about this place! How did that happen?
A staircase in Merchant’s House. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Well, as soon as I discovered it, I had to visit, and I’m glad I did. Located on East 4th Street in downtown Manhattan, the house is small by today’s standards but was once the prestigious home of a wealthy merchant and his family in the mid-1800s, just before The Gilded Age.
The back facade and garden of Merchant’s House. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Seabury Tredwell grew up on a farm on Long Island but came to Manhattan at age 18 to seek his fortune … and fortune he found. Tredwell bought Merchant’s House in 1835 for $18,000, a paltry sum today but certainly not paltry at that time. He and his young wife, Eliza, had eight children, and the house also accommodated four live-in servants.
The servants of the day were often teenage Irish immigrants who were on call 24 hours a day for $3 to $4 a month. They did, of course, receive room and board, which factory workers didn’t receive. Society at the time discriminated heavily against Irish immigrants, even though they made the life of wealthy families like the Tredwells possible.
The servants’ quarters in the attic of Merchant’s House. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Seabury Tredwell died at age 85 in 1865, just five weeks before the assassination of President Lincoln. Afterwards, his wife and five younger children continued to live in the home. By the time the last surviving member of the family, Gertrude, died in 1933, the family had resided at Merchant’s House for nearly 100 years. Afterwards, Eliza Tredwell’s grand-nephew turned it into a museum in 1936.
The garden at Merchant’s House. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The house has three stories and an attic, as well as a lovely small garden in the back. The basement floor, which is a half story below ground and with lower ceilings than the rooms on upper floors, contained the kitchen. This was the warmest part of the house in winter but also the coolest part in summer.
The kitchen at Merchant’s House. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The servants were up at dawn, and there were bells to call them when the family awakened each morning. Ingeniously, each bell had a different sound so that the servants knew exactly who was summoning them.
An interesting hat and coat rack in Merchant’s House. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
You might be surprised to hear that the house had some running water when it was originally built. This was an extraordinary luxury, as most people in the city got their water from communal wells on the street. As the city became more heavily populated, that well water became contaminated and caused many diseases among the population.
A chamber pot in one of the bedrooms in Merchant’s House. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Wealthy families like the Tredwells were able to purchase water from tradesmen who brought it to the city from springs outside of the city, and an underground cistern fed water to faucets in the kitchen through a combination of wooden and lead pipes. Of course, the house was eventually connected to public water supply lines.
The home was heated by coal fireplaces that had to be replenished twice a day in the winter, and the rooms were lit by candles, oil lamps, and kerosene lamps. When gas mains became available in the 1850s, gas lighting was introduced into the house.
The front parlor at Merchant’s House. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I was amused by a cultural piece of information in the museum’s self-guided tour booklet about something called “ceremonial calling.” The women of the time would call on each other periodically, which was considered a social obligation. The visitor would arrive at the house and leave her calling card containing her name with one of the servants. She would then wait in the front parlor while the servant took the calling card to the lady of the house.
An 1856 print of George Washington in Merchant’s House. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The lady of the house would then meet the visitor in the parlor, and they would have a very formal conversation that lasted no more than 10 minutes. This call would then oblige the lady of the house to visit the caller at her home within about three days. Apparently, women of the time considered this custom to be quite tedious. Remember that no one could phone ahead of time to ask if they could come by or at least warn of their arrival.
A bedroom in Merchant’s House. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The rooms and furnishings are both beautiful and fascinating. I strongly recommend visiting Merchant’s House when you’re in NYC. It’s open Wednesday-Sunday from 1:00-5:00 p.m. for self-guided tours and holds one 75-minute guided tour daily at noon. It’s best to buy tickets for the guided tour in advance.
Another bedroom in Merchant’s House. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I opted for the self-guided tour, which was easy because the very detailed booklet explained much more about the family, the house, and the time period than I could possibly include in this article.
Currently, the front facade of the house is hidden because renovations were taking place, but the organization that runs it is in dire need of funds to keep the house from falling apart. There are signs of deterioration in several rooms, especially in the paint and plastic work on the walls and ceilings.
A chandelier and intricate plaster work on the ceiling in Merchant’s House.
Even though the building enjoys landmark status, a planned new building next door is threatening its survival. The fear is that the construction work will be too much for the fragile historic property, and the museum would have to close for a couple of years in order to preserve its contents, which would, of course, be financially stressful.
Efforts have been made for 13 years now to prevent the construction next door, and there are pleas on the property for financial help. Because of the fight to prevent the construction, renovations to restore the property back to the way it looked in the 1850s has had to cease.
A dress with hoop skirt displayed in Merchant’s House Museum. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
General admission to the museum is $15.50, while the guided tour costs $20.50. Seniors and students are admitted for $10.50, and children under 12 are allowed in for free, as are members of the Merchant’s House Museum. There are numerous membership levels that help to keep the house running. These range from as low as $40 to as high as $2,500. Let’s make sure this important historic site is preserved for the generations to come!
Fewer tourist rentals in Spain. Spain has removed more than 50,000 tourist rental apartments from the market and is converting them into long-term rentals for residents. Can’t blame them when tourist rentals cause permanent housing shortages.
Air taxis. The FAA in the U.S. has launched a program this month to test electric air taxis in some cities. This could be interesting, making it possible to get to and from the airport faster (for a price, of course).
More lounges at JFK. Plaza Premium is building new lounges in JFK’s Terminal 1. These lounges are usually part of the Priority Pass network.
Orca. Photo by Hollyfotograf08.
Orcas sink boat in Portugal. A pod of orca whales attacked a vessel off the coast of Portugal near Fonte da Telha beach this month, causing it to sink. Five people were aboard, and all were rescued. Marine biologists speculate that the whales are more than likely playing without malicious intent, but these kinds of attacks have been happening with increased frequency.
Ancient city discovered in Peru. Peñico is a 3,800-year-old city of Peru’s ancient Caral civilization that has been discovered four hours north of Lima. The site has 18 structures, including ceremonial temples, according to BBC.
No more partnership between Delta and Aeromexico as of January 1st. This partnership, which has been in effect for almost nine years, is being shut down by the White House.
Made mythical by John Steinbeck’s “Cannery Row,” Monterey, California is now a tourism mecca on the unforgettable California coastline. Just outside of the famed Monterey Bay Aquarium, one of the best aquariums in the world, I saw the circle of life unfold right in front of me.
While photographing a small, bright red crab swimming alone on the surface of the Pacific, a gull swooped down and turned that crab into lunch. This is one of the things I love most about the aquarium there. You can see captive animals indoors and watch wild ones just outside from a raised platform.
A gull catches a small red crab in Monterey. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Monterey Bay is a protected national marine sanctuary that extends 35 miles offshore, covers more than 5,000 square miles, and contains nearly 350 species of fish. If you want to check out the water yourself, it’s a popular cold-water diving location, or you can rent a kayak.
The exhibits inside the aquarium include a kelp forest, squid, giant Pacific octopus, penguins, and otters. There is also an array of jellyfish. Most exciting for me was seeing rare comb jellyfish that light up in rainbow colors from within. I had never seen them in person before, and it’s difficult to believe their lights are real without electricity.
Amazing creatures at Monterey Bay Aquarium. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
One of the most popular activities in Monterey is cruising on the water for whale watching or fishing. Depending on the time of year, you can see orcas (killer whales), humpbacks, gray whales, dolphins, and even the largest mammal that has ever lived – the blue whale. Just be careful. The day I chose to take a cruise, the water was so choppy that the excursion was pointless. No one could stand up on the deck.
We got a fleeting glimpse of whale tale flukes, while a woman near me propelled her breakfast onto the floor. They never should have taken us out that morning and should have provided refunds. But they didn’t. Meanwhile, all companies cancelled the remaining cruises of the day. My advice would be to trust the weather forecast rather than the decision of the boating establishments.
Old Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
While safely on land, I kept myself busy for hours just stepping into shops in Monterey, mostly on Cannery Row or the historic Fisherman’s Wharf. You won’t find so many chain stores here, which makes it much more interesting. There are art galleries and a large number of jewelers – even one named after Steinbeck.
A plaque dedicated to John Steinbeck in Monterey. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
As you walk along Cannery Row, you won’t be allowed to forget about Steinbeck for long. There are statues of him, and the Spirit of Monterey Wax Museum has a 20-minute history exhibit about his life and the sardine canneries.
Monterey. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Won Yee’s Wing Chong Market was owned by his family since it opened in 1918. He was the inspiration for Lee Chong in Steinbeck’s novel. Historic buildings are everywhere in the area. The oceanview Spindrift Inn was built in 1927, and the Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa was constructed in 1901.
One of my favorite shops in town is Monterey’s Tasty Olive Bar. The store contains more than 70 varieties of oils and vinegars, and you can taste nearly every one of them while you’re there. Then, they bottle your choices on the spot, or you can order from their website. I especially loved the vegan butter-flavored olive oil and have ordered another bottle since my visit. It’s great with popcorn!
The Tasty Olive Bar in Monterey. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
As you stroll, you can pose for an old time portrait at Doc Wenzel’s and pick up some delicious salt water taffy to munch on. Then, rent a surrey or bike, and ride around the Monterey Recreational Trail.
Most of what you want to see in Monterey is walkable, but if you rent a car, you can explore some of the other nearby towns. It isn’t far to Big Sur, Carmel-by-the-Sea, Pacific Grove, and Pebble Beach, among others, as well as some of the local wineries.
Monterey. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Cannery Row even has its own Taste of Monterey Wine Market & Bistro. There are also a number of restaurants throughout the region that provide a view as you eat. In Monterey, one such restaurant is The C at The Clement Hotel.
Of course, seafood is the number one cuisine choice in Monterey, but there’s a wide variety of food available for discerning palates. I enjoyed Louie Linguini’s. Don’t let the silly name fool you. I had an excellent Piccata Pacific Snapper filet there. They also serve pasta and have a kids’ menu.
Monterey County is artichoke country, so you’ll see plenty of artichokes on the local menus. A grilled artichoke with garlic mayonnaise is a popular dish. I enjoyed mine at the highly recommended Domenico’s on Fisherman’s Wharf.
The Clement in Monterey. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
While the number one hotel in Monterey for luxury travelers is probably The Clement, now an Intercontinental property right on the water, I stayed in the 3-star Monterey Hotel in the old downtown area, which is a short walk from Cannery Row and the waterfront. It was on par with luxury hotels and is recommended if other luxury properties aren’t available.
Monterey is one of those places that lives up to its reputation. It’s a great mix of the natural world and the manmade world. The pace is leisurely, allowing you to fill your days as much or as little as you like with a variety of activities for all ages.
Jamaica Inn, a hotel that sits on a six-acre beachfront garden, is an institution in Ocho Rios, Jamaica. The iconic Inn has been around since 1950, and the same family (the Morrows) has run it since 1958. Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller stayed there in the 50s, and Noel Coward was a frequent guest.
I was told that many staff members have worked at the Inn for years. This is always a good sign. Happy staff is likely to translate to happy guests.
Because of the age of Jamaica Inn, many of the bedrooms are a bit small by today’s standards, but some of the amenities you receive in exchange are truly special. My suite was right on the Inn’s 700-foot private beach, and while the bedroom and bathroom were both small, my living room was outside. One step out of this living room verandah, and I was on sand. It included a couch, cushioned chairs, desk, dinette set, and refrigerator. Some of the suites at the Inn are on the second floor with a balcony, but every room has an ocean view.
A balcony of a second floor room. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Of course, there are larger suites available, including the Winston Churchill suite (yes, he stayed there, as well as the King of Yugoslavia.) This suite, which is also called the White Suite, is enormous with a verandah on three sides, a private lawn and garden, and a private balcony overlooking the water.
The lawn at Jamaica Inn has a swimming pool, croquet court, and beach bar, and there are private cottages available for rental as well. The rooms contain no television, radio, or clock, and guests wear “casual elegant” dress for dinner.
My outdoor verandah at Jamaica Inn. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
My favorite thing about staying at Jamaica Inn was being served breakfast on my verandah. I just loved seeing someone walk down the beach with my breakfast tray to give it to me sand-side. Nothing says luxury like eating eggs and pineapple pancakes on your own private verandah while listening to the sound of the waves.
The view from my outdoor verandah. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
This verandah had a roof, so if it had rained, I would have stayed dry while remaining “outside.” The verandah also had a beach towel on a rack and a metal bowl in which to wash the sand off my feet before reentering the bedroom. The other side of my suite opened directly to the outside walkway on the property.
The towel and water bowl to wash the sand off my feet. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
This beach, by the way, has golden sand and no sand fleas. The water here tends to be cool, and it has a sandy bottom with no rocks for 200 yards out. All of these elements cause some to call this the best beach in Jamaica. While the Inn can accommodate 90 guests, there are 120 chairs on the beach, so you never have to worry about finding a place to lounge.
Jamaica Inn. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Before dinner, I enjoyed a delicious Planter’s punch in open-air seating, while I listened to the trio of musicians mixed with the sound of the crickets and frogs that play their own music every night in Jamaica. For dinner, I had the option of a five-course dinner or a selection from the a la carte menu. I decided on an entrée of lemongrass kingfish with carrots, broccoli, and mashed potatoes. It was a simple meal but was expertly prepared.
The swimming pool at Jamaica Inn. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Jamaica Inn’s spa is also very special. I had a phenomenal massage in an open-air tree house which allowed me an ocean view while also maintaining enough walls to give me privacy. The spa uses and sells all natural products made by local individuals. There is pure coconut oil, for example, that is hand cold-pressed by a woman that the manager of the spa knows personally.
Jamaica Inn. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
An on-site staff of carpenters and painters maintain the buildings at all times, so nothing is left until it is in a state of disrepair.
If you want to visit Ocho Rios, you must either rent a car or hire a car (which can easily be arranged by the Jamaica Inn staff), as the town is just a bit too far away for a walk.
Jamaica Inn’s gift shop. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The Jamaica Inn experience is a bit like stepping back in time, while enjoying modern comforts. I wouldn’t be at all surprised if Noel Coward’s spirit still makes regular visits. Why wouldn’t he?
Some exceptional wines using mostly indigenous grapes are made in the Portuguese Alentejo DOC.
What is interesting is that many of the wineries retain their ancient marble cisterns, where grapes are still foot-pressed and then aged in very large concrete vats or barrels (foudre) of Portuguese or French oak, making wines the old-fashioned way.
Dona Maria marble cistern. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
This makes wines that are as good and interesting as ones from more modern wineries where grapes are softly pressed with pneumatic presses, fermented in controlled-temperature stainless steel tanks, and aged in stainless tanks.
Whichever production methodology is used in these wineries, it seems to result in excellent wines. This proves that the quality of the grapes and the palate and knowledge of the winemakers are far more important than the type or age of the equipment used.
The most interesting Portuguese DOC I know of, Alentejo is the largest viticulturalarea in Portugal. It covers almost 1/3 of the entire country. Located on the Eastern part, slightly south from Lisbon and bordering Extremadura, Spain, Alentejo produces both easy-drinking, fruity white, and light red wines, as well as some very serious reds that can easily compete with some of the best wines produced in the Iberian Peninsula.
The first winery I wish to mention is the Júlio Bastos Dona Maria Vinhos in Estremoz, also known as Quinta do Carmo.
The marble entrance to the gardens at Dona Maria. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
It’s a “regal” estate, a palatial house built in the early 18th century by the then king of Portugal, João V, for his mistress, Dona Maria. A very large green lawn separates the house from the winery with a magnificent marble entrance in the center back, leading to a formal garden that includes an ancient irrigation cistern the size of a swimming pool, with a white marble statue of Neptune over a group of nereids and sea monsters.
It’s absolutely magnificent, but I guess when you are the king of an important nation, as Portugal certainly was in the 18th century, you can indulge your fantasies to charm your mistress.
In 2001, Júlio Bastos acquired the estate and in 2002 bought a vineyard which is now over 50 years old and located near the estate. The harvest is strictly manual.
The predominant red grape varieties in the vineyard are Alicante Bouschet and Touriga Nacional. In addition, there are plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Aragonês to be used in making red blends. The white grape varieties are Viognier, an international grape, as well as some Arinto and Antão Vaz, both indigenous varietals. The wines are mostly labeled under the Dona Maria brand.
The only rosé produced is a blend from 50% Aragonês and 50% Touriga National grapes. The juice is not allowed to contact the skins and is aged in 60% French/40% American oak barriques. It’s a delicate, light, almost eye-of-the-partridge-colored wine with aromas of strawberries and citrus fruit dominating this lovely summer indulgence.
Their top wines are: Júlio B. Bastos, Alicante Bouschet. It’s the only non-Dona Maria-branded red, a wine from select grapes of old Alicante Bouschet vines, foot-trodden in the marble cisterns. It’s matured for 14 months in new French oak barriques. The wine shows a dark ruby color with plum, kirsch, blackberry, and chocolate aromas. The silky and intense finish shows round mature tannins. I would rate this wine at 89/100 points.
Dona Maria Grande Reserve. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The Dona Maria Grande Reserva is a blend of 25% each Petit Verdot, Alicante Bouschet, Syrah, and Touriga National. It has a beautiful dark ruby red color and aromas of ripe red and black woodland berries with a faint hint of sandalwood. The palate is rich and spicy, showing red fruits, silky tannins, and a very long and persistent finish. This wine is rated at 94/100 points.
The Dona Maria Amantis Reserva White was an unoaked 100% Viognier. A nice wine, very aromatic and well balanced. It’s a food wine that will pair very well with seafood and fish, especially fatty fish because of the light, vibrant acidity. However, I could also see it being paired with a nice spit-roasted piglet or even a stuffed breast of veal. I would rate this wine at 89/100 points.
Marques de Borba Reserva. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The second winery in my Alentejo investigations is the João Portugal Ramos Adega Vila Santa, located in another 18th century noble house. This winery is part of a group with other wineries in the Duro Valley; Tejo, Beiras (Quinta de Foz de Arouce) and a new project in the Monção region producing Vinho Verde.
The wines are branded under the Marquês de Borba, Vila Santa, Quinta da Viçosa Single Vineyard, Loios and Pouca Roupa labels.
Outstanding of the wines I tasted was the Marquês de Borba Reserva, an interesting blend of 30% Trincadeira, 30% Aragonês, 25% Alicante Bouschet, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a deep red-hued wine, redolent of jammy red and black fruit with hints of cedar and oriental spices. The palate is elegant with well-integrated tannins and a long finish. I would rate this wine at 91/100 points.
Joao Portugal Ramos Estremus. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
But the highlight of this exploration was the 2012 Estremus – a rich, ripe, jammy blend of Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira. As far as I’m concerned, this was one of the best wines I have recently tasted, Portuguese or otherwise, with pure fruit and exquisite depth. This wine I would rate at 96/100 or 97/100 points.
The Estremus bottles are available in limited European markets, but the Winebow Group that imports the João Portugal Ramos wines in the US unfortunately does not import this particular outstanding wine. A pity!
The barrel cellar at CARMIM. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Another winery whose wine I enjoyed was CARMIM, a cooperative that has approximately 850 members, corresponding to 3600 hectares of vineyards. The vineyards grow surrounding a medieval village.
Reguengos Garrafeira Socios. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The CARMIM wine I tasted and liked was Reguengos Garrafeira dos Sócios, a wine that I would consider as “almost rustic” even though the suggested retail is just in the under $50 per bottle range. It’s a blend of Alicante Bouschet (65%), Touriga Nacional (20%), and Tinta Caiada (15%) – deep purple, complex with red fruit, blackberry, raisins, vanilla, and dark chocolate on the nose. It’s full-bodied with powerful tannins and good acidity with smooth black currant, dark cherries, plums, and chocolate on the palate with raisins, pepper, eucalyptus, and lingering spice on the long finish.
Herdade dos Grous Tinto. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
I rate it at 90/100 points. Good with roast lamb, piglet on the spit, or even roasted goat.
A wine I recently tasted was the 2018 Herdade dos Grous Tinto, an interesting blend of hand-harvested Alicante Bouschet, Syrah, Touriga Nacional, and Aragonêze, using prolonged maceration in open lagares and later matured in French oak barriques for 9 months. It’s good value for a suggested retail at under $20 per bottle.
It has a deep vivid garnet color with complex aromas of ripe red and black fruit, plums, spice, hints of mint, and cedar; rich fruit on the palate concentrated with a long finish. I rate it 87/100 points, and it was very good with a grilled Angus T-bone.
William Reid was a true entrepreneur. He knew from personal experience that Madeira offered the perfect year-round destination for people requiring a warm climate for health reasons. Summer temperatures rarely rise over 27°C (87°F), and in winter, never fall below 10°C (52°F), with rain falling less than six days a month.
Medical conditions such as tuberculosis and bronchitis were best treated far from the notorious damp fogs of Scotland and London’s smog. Even the respected Lancet medical journal had recommended the island for consumptive patients; “There is no warm country in the world where the irritating influence of wind and dust is so completely absent as in Madeira.”
In 1887, Reid began to plan his dream hotel, commissioning the architect, George Somers Clarke, who designed the original Shepheard’s Hotel in Cairo. Apart from superb accommodation, first class service, and cuisine, the hotel was to be surrounded by ten acres of beautiful subtropical gardens in which the guests could walk or rest in the warm sunshine.
The lobby at Belmond Reid’s Palace. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Before building began, baskets of rich soil had to be carried up the steep hill of Sao Martinho to create fertile land out of the barren rock into which a colorful array of plants, shrubs, and trees were planted.
William Reid passed away in 1888 before the completion of the building. His two sons, already in business as hotel keepers and wine merchants, oversaw the end of construction with great attention to detail. In November 1891, Reid’s Hotel opened its doors, offering drawing rooms opening onto a verandah, a tennis court, a path down to the rocks, and a sea-level swimming pool. And, of course, the lush gardens where, in the late-1950s, Sir Winston Churchill spent considerable time painting and writing his war memoir.
Orient Express recently took over Reid’s Hotel, renamed it Belmond Reid’s Palace, and refurbished the legendary mansion that overlooks the Atlantic Ocean. Now, the Grand Dame on the Bay of Funchal is enjoying a renaissance.
Belmond Reid’s Palace. Photo courtesy of Belmond Reid’s Palace.
Basking in the warmth of the subtropical climate, this prominent property recreates the elegance of days past. The service is discreet but omnipresent, respecting the guest’s need for privacy and tranquility. The magnificent exotic gardens surrounding the property overlook the cliff upon which the hotel is perched upon.
Two heated swimming pools, the larger with seawater and the smaller with freshwater at the upper level, and a sea-level pool with direct access to the sea, give guests the choice of swimming in either fresh or salt water.
Having been for over a century the retreat of British politicians, poets, industrialists, and stars of London’s West End, Reid’s is now enjoying a new favor among the entire world’s upper crust. It is no longer the exclusive domain of the stiff-upper-lip crowd that had afternoon tea on the verandah with sandwiches, pastries, and warm scones, accompanied by leaf teas served in classic Wedgwood china.
Men dressed up every evening in white dinner jackets and the women in cocktail gowns. The women sported more diamonds than a jeweler’s window, and they didn’t speak to you unless you were formally introduced – something the General Manager tried to do weekly at the Manager’s Cocktail Reception.
During earlier visits in the 1970s and 1980s, I well remember the very formal dining room that offered British fare. Much of it was thin-sliced roast beef and Yorkshire pudding – appropriate, I guess, for the tastes of the majority of the guests. Currently, on Tuesdays, guests still don their finest and join in a dinner dance, while on Saturdays, the dining room hosts a champagne buffet. But a formal dress code still applies.
A dish at a Belmond Reid’s Palace restaurant. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Additionally, for excellent food, there is now the Michelin-plate-rated Ristorante Villa Cipriani, where the kitchen creates the mouthwatering regional Italian specialties the Cipriani name invokes. It replaced the informal, non-descript Villa Cliffs Portuguese restaurant that had no actual Portuguese guests any of the nights we dined there.
A dish at a Belmond Reid’s Palace restaurant. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Les Faunes, the gourmet restaurant, was renamed as William Restaurant. It now has a single Michelin star and serves classic cuisine with Portuguese overtones. I fondly remember the chocolate soufflé served at Les Faunes at the time of our last previous visit as the best soufflé I have ever had.
The Pool Terrace still offers a great buffet breakfast plus an extensive hot and cold lunch buffet, plus dinner every Tuesday from 6pm to 10pm.
Afternoon tea at Belmond Reid’s Palace. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
A friend from Chicago who recently stayed there commented, “They do everything to make your stay as close to perfect as possible. I mentioned to the receptionist that I felt like a piece of chocolate one night, and before I was at the room, a waiter had delivered two chocolate bars on a silver tray to my door.”
If that isn’t 5-star service, I don’t know what is!
After an initial visit 35 years ago – when we had a great time and great food – we returned to Madeira, the island in the North Atlantic that was “discovered” in 1419 by the Portuguese navigator João Gonçalves Zarco, the one eyed.
Even though João Gonçalves Zarco, who claimed Madeira for the Portuguese crown, thought of the island as uninhabited, Greeks, Romans, Phoenicians, and Vikings passed by and even landed on Madeira during their expeditions across the North Atlantic. This fact was confirmed by recent DNA test results on island animals, namely rats (they came with the Romans and the Vikings) and goats (they came with the Greeks).
Greek and Phoenician presence can also be verified by two very specific grape varieties that are present since ancient times and vinified to make some of Madeira’s famous wines: Moscato d’Alessandria, propagated by Phoenician seafarers throughout the Mediterranean, and Malvasia di Candia – locally known as Malmsey – propagated by Minoan Cretan sailors and traders.
The jagged peaks of Madeira, Portugal. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Grapevine and sugar cane plantations dominated the island’s early economy, and even though sugar (locally referred to as “white gold”) is no longer such an important commodity, Madeira wine production flourished during the 17th century and quickly became one of the permanent economic mainstays.
During the 19th and 20th centuries, Madeira became one of the early tourist destinations in Europe, mostly for the British aristocracy of the period. Reid’s Hotel, one of the earliest luxury hotel properties, became the center for very important moneyed guests, including such luminaries as Sir Winston Churchill, Sir Anthony Eden, George Bernard Shaw, and many others.
Nowadays, Madeira attracts visitors not only from the UK but also from the rest of the world, and there are numerous 5-star hotel properties on the island that cater to the luxury traveler, as well as other rated hotels and B&Bs. Actually, most of the important international hotel groups have properties in or around Funchal, the capital.
Monte Palace. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Be sure to visit the beautiful 17th century Monte Palace, which overlooks Funchal Bay. It’s one of the foremost sites and worth your time.
Tile panels at Monte Palace. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Many of the early wine producers have been absorbed into a few combined companies, but if you’re interested in Madeira wines, there are still some very good wineries (locally known as wine lodges) where you can taste both current and old vintages.
As part of our trip, we visited Blandy’s, one of the oldest and best known producers of Madeira wines, established in 1811. The Blandy family is the only Madeira family involved in the wine trade that’s still in business, managing their original wine company. Today, Michael and Chris Blandy, members of the 6th and 7th generations, are very much involved. Chris runs the company.
Some other producers that create exceptional Madeiras are: Henriques & Henriques, Justino’s, Barbeito, and Pereira D’Oliveira.
During our trip, we found a small winery that produces exceptional Malmsey (Malvasia) about 20 minutes from Funchal. The winery is part of Fajã dos Padres, an organic farm with large vegetable and exotic fruit gardens by the seashore. It also includes a restaurant. To get there, you have to take a cable car that descends an almost vertical, approximately 300-meter drop to the shore.
A view of Funchal. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
Mário, the owner and winemaker, is an electrical engineer by training and a wine lover by avocation. He makes his wines from grapes planted in the property’s gardens, mostly hanging from pergolas, but there seemed to also be a couple bush-trained vines. These vines were propagated from a single plant of Malvasia di Candia that Mário found somewhere on the property and was an original vine brought from Crete.
His cellar has a small number of barriques and a few tonneaux, and he offered us wine from a barrique marked Malvasia 2005, which was delicious. I’ll admit I not only eagerly accepted a second glass when it was graciously offered, but I also finished Barbara’s glass and asked for a third. No spitting in this tasting!
A painted door in Madeira. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
We then had lunch at the restaurant. Flatbread slathered with fresh butter and garlic; charcoal-grilled limpets with a light cheese, parsley, lemon, and olive oil dressing; boiled octopus in a clay pot with fresh tomatoes, onion slices, and parsley in an olive oil and lemon dressing; wonderful colossal red shrimps charcoal-grilled and placed over fresh wild greens; a simple but delectable fish soup in a fresh tomato and onion broth; a good-sized slice of charcoal-grilled sea-bass steak with grilled potato chunks; fries, grape tomatoes, black olives over skewered steak slices.
Traditional biscotti in Madeira. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
It was simple but wonderful local fare. There was also a nice, light, aromatic white wine from mainland (Alentejo) vineyards. Everything was simple, extremely fresh, and served while the sea nearby murmured an exotic song!
On another day, we re-did the famous (or infamous depending on your experience) “toboggan” ride, starting from Monte near the top of the mountain to the beginning of Funchal, riding a wicker basket and sliding down the steep and slippery roadway at about 40km per hour!
The Monte Carreiros. Photo by Manos Angelakis.
The Carairros do Monte, as the sledge drivers have been known since the 1850s, wear white canvas uniforms and straw hats, and they control the basket by pulling ropes or pushing the basket. They sometimes ride on the wooden runners and make use of their boots as brakes, while avoiding the vehicular traffic that occasionally crosses the road in front of the toboggan. Not for the faint of heart, but great fun!
Funicular crash in Portugal. On September 3rd, 16 people were killed when the Gloria funicular in Lisbon crashed. What a horrible tragedy.
Airport Wi-Fi alert. Scammers are creating bogus Wi-Fi networks to trick travelers into signing on and giving away their data. It’s best not to use airport Wi-Fi at all, but if you do, ALWAYS check the name of the legitimate network first.
Don’t vape in Singapore or India! These two countries have banned vaping, and Singapore is cracking down, even if you’re flying through the country on route to elsewhere. (You don’t want to fool with Singapore!)
Beautiful Singapore. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Beach closures. Beaches in several states have had to close this summer due to bacterial contamination. These include beaches in New York, California, Massachusetts, and Hawaii.
Which U.S. city has the most bed bugs? That dubious distinction goes to … Chicago according to Orkin.
New app requirement in Indonesia, including Bali. International visitors to many Indonesian airports, including Bali, must complete a form using a special app three days before departure. If you’re going to this part of the world, be sure to check this out ahead of time!
Image created by Melanie Votaw in Canva.
London transit strike. There is currently a transit worker strike in London that’s disrupting subway access. If you’re traveling there soon, check your options. Word is that a strike may also be coming in France.
VRBO crackdown. As of October 1st, VRBO will start charging hosts a 100% penalty for stranding guests. Yay! This is a great development for travelers.
New visa requirements in the U.S. Nonimmigrant visa applicants traveling to the U.S. must now schedule an interview at their local U.S. embassy and prove their residence in their home country. It applies to pretty much everyone.
Image created by Melanie Votaw in Canva.
Airline ratings. Southwest Airlines made it to the top of U.S. airline quality ratings with Alaska Airlines as #2. Meanwhile, Delta fell hard down to #7, which it attributes to the 2024 IT outage.
Airline lobbying. Lobbyists for airlines are busy trying to get the new U.S. administration to roll back a lot of regulations that favor passengers. We can only hope they aren’t successful. if they are, we might have no compensation for flight delays or cancellations and perhaps loads of hidden fees. The Trump administration has already cancelled the Biden era rule that made airlines compensate passengers for flight disruptions. Boo!
Airline partnership ends. Alaska Airlines and Singapore Airlines will cease their partnership next month.
United and ITA. Meanwhile, United Airlines and Italy’s ITA have started a new partnership.
United Airlines air collision. On September 3rd, two United planes touched tails at San Francisco airport, forcing the passengers to deplane and wait for other aircraft. No one was hurt.
How long will Spirit Airlines be around? After a Chapter 11 bankruptcy reorganization, the airline has filed bankruptcy yet again. This does not bode well.
The interior of an airplane. (Stock photo).
Delta Air Lines settlement. Five years after a flight from LAX to Shanghai dumped fuel on Los Angeles neighborhoods, including school children, the airline has settled a subsequent lawsuit for $79 million.
Frontier Airlines adds new routes. Later in the year, Frontier will launch 22 new routes, adding Caribbean and Latin American destinations to its roster.
Ryanair slashes seats. The budget airline in Europe will cut one million seats on its Spain routes starting this winter.
