Anne Frank: The Exhibition is a full-scale recreation in New York City of the authentic Anne Frank House in Amsterdam. It opened on Holocaust Remembrance Day, January 27, 2025, and was originally only to remain for a few months. First, it was extended into October, but due to demand, it was just announced that it will be extended through February 1, 2026.
The entrance to Anne Frank: The Exhibition at the Center for Jewish History In New York City. Photo by John Halpern.
I visited the original house in Amsterdam many years ago, but I wanted to see this exhibition as well. I’m glad I did because it includes much more than the house recreation. It’s a perfect introduction to the realities of the Holocaust for children who are ready and uninformed, as well as an excellent reminder for adults.
Photos of the Frank family on display at Anne Frank: The Exhibition. Photo by John Halpern.
Numerous exhibits and artifacts educate visitors on the Frank family specifically, as well as the Holocaust in general. The artifacts include Anne’s first photo album, a typed and handwritten invitation that Anne wrote to her friend for a film screening in her home (at that time, Jews were no longer allowed to attend movies in theaters), and handwritten verses that Anne wrote in her friends’ poetry albums.
Many artifacts are on display at Anne Frank: The Exhibition. Photo by John Halpern.
The New York exhibition is near Union Square at the Center for Jewish History and occupies more than 7,500 square feet. An audio device is included with the admission fee. There are numbers displayed throughout the exhibit, and all you have to do is touch your device near the number and hold it to your ear to hear all about what you’re viewing.
A view of Anne Frank: The Exhibition. Photo by John Halpern.
It takes about an hour to get through the entire exhibit, although many people will want to linger longer over the artifacts and rooms. Also on view is a screen showing the only known video of Anne Frank as she peers out a window. I think I’ve seen this before, but it still made me gasp.
Another view from Anne Frank: The Exhibition that shows Anne’s parents during happier times. Photo by John Halpern.
Another screen shows a video of the secretary of Anne’s father, Otto Frank, as she recounts delivering Anne’s diaries to Otto after he was freed from his incarceration following the war. She had the sobering job of showing him a letter from a nurse at Bergen-Belsen concentration camp in Germany that confirmed the deaths of both Anne and her older sister, Margot, to typhus during their incarceration. When he was released after the war was over, he had no idea what had happened to his daughters or the rest of his family and friends.
One of the rooms recreated at Anne Frank: The Exhibition. Photo by John Halpern.
Along with the Van Pels family and Fritz Pfeffer, the Frank family spent two years starting in July 1942, hiding in the house called the annex as they evaded capture by the Nazis … until that fateful day, of course, when they were found. Anne died at Bergen-Belsen when she was just 15 years old, and Otto was the only person from the house who survived the Holocaust. He died in 1980 at the age of 91.
The recreation of the room where Anne slept at the annex. Photo by John Halpern.
After Otto decided to publish Anne’s diaries, the book became one of the most translated books in the world. He has said that even though he thought he knew his daughter well, he learned so much more about her from her diaries. As someone who was once a teenage girl, this doesn’t surprise me, as teens are a bundle of secrets. It was Anne’s dream to be a published writer, however, so her father fulfilled her dream for her posthumously.
The exhibit includes copies of Anne’s diary in many languages. Photo by John Halpern.
There are both timed entry tickets and flex tickets available for the exhibition in New York. They range from $24-$54 for adults and $18-$24 for children 17 and under. There are also reduced family tickets available and some upcoming free days.
While walking through the exhibition is certainly a sobering experience, I highly recommend it. After all, we must never forget.
Thailand’s culture is what draws most visitors, and there’s good reason for that. But beyond the beaches, I think a lot of people miss the beauty of nature in the country. The following images provide an overview of at least some of what Thailand has to offer the traveler.
An image of Bangkok. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Traffic in Bangkok. Photo by Melanie Votaw.The old and the new collide in Thailand. Photo by Melanie Votaw.The temples and palaces are stunning. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Photo by Melanie Votaw.Harmless monitor lizards are everywhere in Lumpini Park in Bangkok. But watch for rabid dogs. They are NOT harmless. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A woman works in one of the country’s floating markets. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A traditional Thai dancer. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A man works on a salt farm. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Thailand is a very colorful place. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Monks in the mist of Chiang Mai. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Eels for sale in a local market. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Ayutthaya is one of my favorite places in Thailand. It used to be the capital and contains a palace, as well as many beautiful ruins that are reminiscent of Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Photo by Melanie Votaw.The beaches are famous in Thailand for good reason. Photo by Melanie Votaw.It’s worth it to venture into the national parks, where you might see elephants and you’ll definitely see tons of gorgeous birds, as well as the occasional waterfall. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Exotic butterflies are commonplace in the national parks. Photo by Melanie Votaw.You’re also likely to see macaques in the national forests. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Tucked away in the Bahamas Out Island of Eleuthera is Yellowbird Estate – an expansive private villa that stands as a beacon of coastal charm and tranquility. With its idyllic oceanfront location, this unique vacation rental captures the essence of island living, while offering an unforgettable escape for travelers seeking a blend of relaxation and adventure.
The pool at Yellowbird Estate. Photo courtesy of Yellowbird Estate.
Yellowbird Estate welcomes guests with an interior that seamlessly combines seaside elegance with modern comfort. The spaces are adorned with carefully selected furnishings and décor that create an atmosphere that is both soothing and invigorating. Large hurricane impact glass doors, windows, and ample open spaces allow the sunshine to weave its way through the rooms, enhancing the connection to the natural world.
Yellowbird Estate. Photo courtesy of Yellowbird Estate.
The most enchanting feature of Yellowbird Estate is undoubtedly its oceanfront location. A private stretch of pink sand beach invites guests to unwind under the sun, take leisurely strolls along the shoreline, or simply listen to the serenade of the waves that ceaselessly ebb and flow. The estate’s outdoor spaces are designed to maximize the beauty of the surrounding environment, offering stunning views of the ocean that stretch as far as the eye can see.
The facade of Yellowbird Estate. Photo courtesy of Yellowbird Estate.
Luxurious Interior Amenities Abound
While Yellowbird Estate embodies the laid-back spirit of island living, it doesn’t compromise on luxury and convenience. The home is equipped with modern amenities that cater to the needs of travelers seeking comfort and relaxation. From a fully equipped chef’s kitchen to spacious indoor and outdoor living areas, each detail has been thoughtfully considered to ensure a seamless and enjoyable stay.
A bedroom at Yellowbird Estate. Photo courtesy of Yellowbird Estate.
This nine-bedroom, 9.5-bathroom treasure, which can accommodate fully 22 guests, sits on a lush 2.3-acre oceanview property nestled between a 20-acre pond and the beautiful private pink sand beach. With a main house boasting 8,400 square feet, there are four beautifully appointed en-suite bedrooms, plus a stunning separate primary suite with its own private entrance. The bed in the primary suite is oriented so that the moment a guest opens their eyes in the morning, they’re greeted with vistas of the azure Caribbean Sea.
The bar in Yellowbird Estate. Photo courtesy of Yellowbird Estate.
The property’s chef-inspired kitchen features a gorgeous custom rock wall, large island with seating, gas range, double oven, and a wide array of appliances and cooking tools sure to meet any culinary need.
The living room at Yellowbird Estate. Photo courtesy of Yellowbird Estate.
Yellowbird Estate also features a spacious living room with bar and soaring 28-foot ceilings, which offers a cozy, communal space that’s perfect for family game night, conversations, or a sunset cocktail that can be viewed from the large attached pergola overlooking the heated infinity pool and private beach. The house also has a super comfy media room for watching movies or TV and playing games.
Yellowbird Estate. Photo courtesy of Yellowbird Estate.
Oceanfront Indulgence
Outside of the main house sits a detached 2,200-foot guest casita that also overlooks the pool, which has its own large living space and eat-in kitchen. This luxury casita has three en-suite bedrooms with an additional bunk room with top twin bunks, and bottom full and double bunks, plus a full bathroom.
Rounding out the incredible lot is a large, covered cabana facing the private beach, which is affectionately known as “The Office.” Aside from serving as the perfect space to feel the omnipresent breeze in your hair, this multi-functional space can be used for yoga, massages, cocktails, coffee breaks, or a quiet dinner right next to the melodic ocean.
Yellowbird comes fully staffed with a cook for breakfast and lunch, housekeeping, and concierge services to facilitate guest requests. For dinner, guests can cook on their own or elicit the services of Island Hospitality Group or other area private chef services. While guests pay for their own groceries and other provisions, grocery stocking is available at no charge. Airport pick-up and drop-off is additionally included with each stay.
The patio at Yellowbird Estate. Photo courtesy of Yellowbird Estate.
Beyond its own captivating beauty, the Estate also serves as a gateway to exploring the wonders of Eleuthera and the Bahamas at large. Guests can indulge in water sports, fishing, snorkeling, and diving adventures to discover the vibrant marine life that resides beneath the waves. Additionally, nearby attractions such as swimming with pigs, cliff jumping, ATV riding, and more offer endless opportunities for exploration and entertainment. Resources like those offered by EleutheraVacationRentals.net provide a comprehensive list of things to do on the island.
The owner of Yellowbird Estate, Ann Bakhaus, has been venturing to the island for over 40 years, having fallen in love with Eleuthera on her very first visit. She fondly upholds a childhood memory of the iconic Dr. Seabreeze singing the song “Yellowbird” to her father, which was his favorite, eventually inspiring the moniker for this distinctive estate home. Below, Bakhaus shares some of her personal thoughts on what makes this property a premier vacation rental option in Eleuthera.
Yellowbird Estate. Photo courtesy of Yellowbird Estate.
MK: What are a few things that set the property apart from other comparable options in the area?
AB: First and foremost is our staff, who strive for the most wonderful experience possible for each guest. Their attention to detail is unsurpassed. And both our Executive Director and Assistant Executive Director are certified in First Aid/CPR and AED by the American Heart Association. The layout of the property and the design of the buildings are other notable features of the house, as the spaces are very flexible, and each room is decidedly cozy. Variation and ease of guest experiences is another strong suit, as each guest can design their activities just by checking a box in their welcome package upon arrival.
MK: Who is your target or ideal clientele?
AB: Our target clientele is anyone and everyone that’s looking for a beautiful, quiet property large enough for 22 people. We have hosted corporate retreats, family reunions, destination weddings and have even made it intimate for small groups of six or less. We’ve even had a couple rent it just for themselves. Yellowbird Estate offers wonderful experiences and things to do, from sip and paints for children and adults to a day at Tin Bay with Jet Ski’s! Also available are DJ’s and other live music, fire dancers, hair braiding, massages, and even blow-up outdoor movie screens for cinema and pizza parties under the stars. We facilitate as much, or as little, as guests would like to do.
Yellowbird Estate. Photo courtesy of Yellowbird Estate.
MK: What is your personal favorite aspect of the property and/or guest experience at large?
AB: My personal favorite aspect of the property is our beautiful, thatched building that sits next to the beach, which we call “The Office.” It is perfect for yoga, massages, morning coffee, romantic dinners for two, a personal workspace or just a terrific place to chill out and watch the sunrise.
Of course, hospitality is our number one priority, and our guests become family. In fact, many book their return even before they leave. Attention to detail is our specialty, from appetizers and Yellowbird drinks upon arrival to turndown every night. We also have a famous bonfire on the beach the night before departure – s’mores included!
All of that said, what is most special about Eleuthera and Yellowbird Estate is the people of the island, who are the kindest, most gracious, and honest people you’ll ever meet. They have much pride and work so hard. The simple life on the island with these folks is amazing. No commercialism, just good clean healthy living full of respect and thankfulness. Tourism is how they make a living, and the local islanders are very thankful for those who visit Eleuthera.
The living room at Yellowbird Estate. Photo courtesy of Yellowbird Estate.
MK: What are the property’s policies/protocols regarding sustainability, if any?
AB: Sustainability is one of our top priorities at Yellowbird Estate. From capturing our own water into our cisterns that take care of every building on the property to our solar panels that produce 90% of our electricity. We also supply each guest with their own water bottle personalized with their name upon arrival to cut down on the use of plastics.
A bedroom at Yellowbird Estate. Photo courtesy of Yellowbird Estate.
MK: What is particularly notable about your location on the island?
AB: We are centrally located 20 minutes from Governors Harbor, which is far enough away to be very private and close enough for wonderful restaurants, shopping, fuel, and ATMs. Also, fishermen come in each day to supply fresh fish.
A bedroom at Yellowbird Estate. Photo courtesy of Yellowbird Estate.
MK: How has technology impacted the guest experience?
AB: Luckily, there are no issues with technology or television at Yellowbird. We have Starlink, which has proven to be very reliable for Internet service, as well as for support of the worldwide television channels. Eleuthera is known for issues with electrical supply, but our main supply at Yellowbird Estate is from solar. We also have a generator back up, so there’s never an issue with blackouts.
A bathroom at Yellowbird Estate. Photo courtesy of Yellowbird Estate.
Making Memories
Yellowbird Estate offers more than just a place to stay; it provides the backdrop for unforgettable memories. As guests immerse themselves in the tranquility and coastal charm of the Yellowbird Estate, they forge a connection with the Bahamian spirit sure to leave a lasting imprint on their hearts and souls.
Tucked into the ever-evolving culinary corridor of Manhattan’s Murray Hill, Leonetta is reshaping the narrative of what Mediterranean dining means in New York City. This refined, design-forward restaurant – opened in late 2024 by acclaimed chef Ed Cotton – delivers a transportive experience that blends classic flavors, thoughtful presentation, and a deeply personal culinary story.
For luxury travelers seeking a nuanced, ingredient-driven dining escape, Leonetta offers an unforgettable taste of the Mediterranean through the eyes of one of NYC’s most respected chefs at prices that are still within reach.
Dishes at Leonetta. Photo courtesy of Leonetta.
A Culinary Renaissance in Murray Hill
Long considered a bit of a culinary void, Murray Hill is now experiencing a gourmet rebirth, and Leonetta is at the vanguard of that transformation. Chef Cotton, a Top Chef finalist and Beat Bobby Flay winner, brings nearly three decades of global culinary training into a space that honors tradition while gently rewriting the rules.
With a concept rooted in what Cotton describes as “pan-Mediterranean,” Leonetta avoids the trap of regional pigeonholing. Instead, the restaurant draws broadly from the flavors and ingredients of the Mediterranean basin, presenting a menu that’s vibrant yet approachable, modern yet timeless. Guests will find everything from lamb ragout rigatoni to spanakopita-stuffed pitas and pork shawarma, all balanced by house-made pastas, seasonal vegetables, and grilled seafood prepared with reverence and flair.
The interiors, designed by RD Studio, are no less inspired. Lush greenery, warm woods, and Mediterranean tile details bathe the dining space in an air of effortless elegance. Banquettes in buttery yellow tones, an open raw bar, and custom finishes bring to life a setting that feels as much like a coastal dinner party as it does a New York destination restaurant.
And then there’s the subterranean lounge, Leo’s Famous – a moody, fireplace-lit cocktail den serving curated drinks and a tight menu of Mediterranean small plates. It’s a city-insider secret and a reason unto itself to venture to 181 Lexington Avenue.
Chef Ed Cotton. Photo courtesy of Leonetta.
What follows is my exclusive conversation with Chef Cotton, who opens up about Leonetta’s guiding philosophy, ingredient obsessions, and what truly makes the restaurant unlike any other in the city.
MK:How would you describe Leonetta at large? CEC: It’s easy to typecast a restaurant by its regional cuisine, and by that measure, we are often referenced as “Coastal Mediterranean” in the media…. Leonetta’s cuisine more broadly incorporates ingredients of the Mediterranean as inspiration instead of focusing on any specific region. I think many restaurants open and are hyper-focused on staying true to a regional cuisine (wherever in the world it might be found). At Leonetta, our cuisine is not true to one region, but more flavorful, ingredient-driven. It’s about the rich and inspirational ingredients you’d encounter traveling throughout the Mediterranean.
MK:Who is your target or ideal clientele? CEC: Leonetta is in Murray Hill, which is a neighborhood with a lot of young professionals who enjoy dining out and want a quality dining experience. For a long time, Murray Hill was considered a bit of a culinary desert, but it’s really been evolving in recent years. We wanted to be a part of that evolution for the local neighborhood, but also by delivering something that would make us a destination for all New Yorkers and City visitors.
MK:What top qualities set the restaurant apart from its competition in the area? CEC: Our design-forward aesthetic. Leonetta is a beautiful restaurant. It feels vintage and timeless, while at the same time modern and sophisticated. The dietary diversity of our menu offerings is another key touchpoint. You’ll find everything from vegan dishes to ceviches to ribeye and pork shawarma. We check off all the boxes.\
Also, the variety of experiences that our guests can enjoy. Of course, we offer lunch, brunch, and dinner, but we also offer an aperitivo hour. And our downstairs lounge, Leo’s Famous, offers its own unique experience, complete with a separate cocktail and small plates menu.
Leo’s Famous speakeasy within Leonetta. Photo courtesy of Leonetta.
MK:What might folks not know about the restaurant, but should? CEC: We’re proud to support our local friends, who happen to be some of the best purveyors in the business. Our pastas are extruded by our friends in Nayak, NY, DPNB, who hand-make, hand-cut, and portion our pastas, and they truly are the best.
Also notable is our use of a variety of different high-quality spices and pantry products from La Boîte. I used to work side-by-side in the kitchen at Daniel with La Boîte’s culinary team, so we go way back. We use everything from their chickpeas to their custom spice blends to their exclusive olive oils. We also have a wonderful dry-aged meat program with our partners at DeBragga Meats.
MK:How does your own professional journey as a Chef influence the menu’s balance between traditional Mediterranean elements and modern interpretations? CEC: I’ve been working in restaurants for over 30 years now. I always say that my cuisine tells a story about who I am and where I came from, and Leonetta is no exception. At 17, I worked for Todd English at his restaurant, Olives, and it was my first real exposure to Mediterranean cuisine. I remember asking the sous chef why it was called Olives, and he said it was because olives can be found throughout the Mediterranean. And that stuck with me. Conceptually, I brought this idea to Leonetta. So in a way, I’ve come full circle.
MK:What are some of the standout ingredients or techniques that exemplify the kitchen’s philosophy? CEC: We have a black garlic for our marinade that’s one of our secret weapons here. It often has our guests asking us what’s in the dish they’re tasting. We use it in a variety of dishes, including our very popular black garlic hummus. Another ingredient I use a lot is a caramelized garlic, anchovy, and caper mixture. It is sprinkled on quite a few dishes here and creates almost a natural MSG. We caramelize it so well and deep that it adds a natural flavor profile to anything you are working with. You will find it in our Caesar salad instead of a traditional raw anchovy. We also sprinkle it into the rest of the mixture after our broccolini comes off the grill. It’s another secret weapon of ours.
MK:Can you share a bit about the inspiration behind the restaurant’s name and how it connects to the story or vision of the space? CEC: For this restaurant, I had a long list of possibilities. Leonetta stood out because it was delicate and feminine, while its origins were about strength. Leonetta is derived from the Italian word for Lion, which is a true representation of our menu – delicate and powerful all at once, under the roof of a beautiful, design-forward space.
MK:What is your personal favorite item on the menu? I have two. I really like the mezzi rigatoni with braised lamb ragout. I also love our beetroot tzatziki.
MK:How does the restaurant cater to guests with dietary preferences or restrictions like gluten or other allergies, or who may be vegetarian or vegan? CEC: We have vegan dishes, gluten-free dishes. We have dishes for pescatarians. There isn’t much that cannot be ordered off-menu for any dietary restriction or preference. Of course, we are also very happy to accommodate any dietary restrictions. MK:Any interesting factoids about the restaurant? CEC: Our restaurant used to be a Brother Jimmy’s. Some of our guests realize halfway through that they used to play flip cup in what is now our speakeasy, Leo’s Famous. We actually still have their frozen daiquiri machines in our basement. One day, we’ll find a use for them!
Dishes at Leonetta. Photo courtesy of Leonetta.
A Toast to the Mediterranean Spirit Reimagined in NYC
Beyond its meticulous food and beautiful space, Leonetta is an ode to the spirit of Mediterranean dining – unhurried, joyful, and rooted in connection. Whether you’re here for the house-made mafaldine with truffle crema or sipping a Tropical Negroni during Aperitivo Hour, every detail is crafted with care and confidence. The cocktail program, developed by bar consultant Mark Rancourt, dazzles with inventive takes on regional classics, while the wine list celebrates both the eastern and western shores of the sea that inspires the menu.
And then there’s Leo’s Famous, a world below the surface—quite literally. This speakeasy lounge, with its low lighting, fireplace, and velvet textures, offers a sultry contrast to the upstairs bustle. Whether for late-night bites, a private date night, or a signature spritz flight, it’s an extension of Leonetta’s immersive charm.
As the seasons change, so will the menu, but the ethos remains: ingredient-first cooking, Mediterranean soul, and hospitality that feels personal. For the discerning traveler in search of an elegant yet inviting dining destination in Manhattan, Leonetta is a new classic in the making.
I recently tasted an exceptional Prosecco made in the classic méthode champenoise, not in the usual Martinotti-Charmat autoclave method that most Prosecco is produced today.
The Charmat method allows the production of dry and sweet sparkling wines that retain the flavor of the base wine. After the first fermentation, the base wine is transferred into sealed tanks where, with the addition of yeasts, the residual sugar converts into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The process generates pressure, and the CO2 dissolves in the wine, creating the effervescence we all love.
In the classic method, méthode champenoise, the traditional way of creating a sparkler developed by the good friar Dom Pérignon, the secondary fermentation takes place in bottle that is cellared for a considerably longer time in cool, underground cellars.
Prosecco is made from an indigenous Italian grape, nowadays known as Glera. In the past, it was called Prosecco grape, but the name was changed a few years back. The Prosecco consortium regulations call for a minimum 85% Glera content with the balance in a number of allowed other grape varieties.
The Valdo Prosecco is the result of the collaboration of 70 grape growers who grow the grapes, and the Bolla family that has been making wines for more than 90 years. This sparkler, much of which is 100% Glera, combines the typically fruity, delicate characteristics of the Glera grape with the body and personality achieved with re-fermentation in bottles.
In the tasting, we had a vertical of 4 Numero 10 Prosecco vintages, an elegant sparkler made from 100% Glera. The earliest was a 2011, then a 2014, a 2016, and a 2019, plus a non-vintage blend called Valdo Cuvée 1926 made from 90% Glera and 10% Chardonnay. The wines were featured at a 5-course lunch in Manhattan’s Union Square area.
From my notes:
It’s very unfortunate that the 2011 is no longer available in the US market, and no product remains at most retailers. It’s so good that I suggest if you can find a bottle, grab it at whatever price. The bottles we tasted were brought in from the winery’s library and were the best tasting Proseccos we recently had. They were as good as any vintage top Champagne. After the end of the event, I remained at the lunch bar for another hour just to help finish the remaining bottles.
The second best tasting was the 2016 vintage. Nicely aromatic, soft yet distinctive, it was a pleasure to have accompanying the seared bass dish that was the third plate of our lunch.
The 2014 and 2019 were still very good, but the 2019 was too young. It needed considerable additional cellaring to soften a bit more, and the 2014 was as good but a bit too acidic for my taste – the result of an unusually cool year. So it also needs more cellaring to soften.
The Cuvée 1926 was a good non-vintage Prosecco blend. Great as an aperitif, a bit off-dry, the way a non-vintage Prosecco is usually made.
In Florence, street vendors sell boxer shorts with an image on the crotch of the genitals of Michelangelo’s famous David sculpture. In Rome, vendors sell shorts with the same image, but enhanced with additional length. For me, these images comically sum up the personality differences between Florence and Rome in a nutshell (so to speak.)
The train ride between the cities takes less than two hours, so you can easily sample Florence’s more refined nature and Rome’s boisterousness in a single trip. I began my visit in Florence, where I don’t think I saw a corner that wasn’t worthy of a photograph, even when one of the hundreds of Vespas whizzed by.
One of the many sculptures on the streets of Florence. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Beautiful sculptures are nearly everywhere you look, and it’s easy to see why the medieval Ponte Vecchio bridge is so celebrated. In certain light, its colorful façades and dark green window shutters reflect on the Arno River, begging you to lift your camera.
The beautiful Ponte Vecchio in Florence. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Be sure to take a walk across the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. Photo by Melanie Votaw
Of course, I visited the mainstays in Florence, including the Duomo, the Uffizi Galleries, and the Academy Gallery. Make reservations in advance. The works on display are some of the best you’ll find in the world, including the aforementioned David. You needn’t know anything about sculpture to recognize Michelangelo’s genius when you see the David; he is definitely deserving of his notoriety.
The Duomo at dusk in Florence. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
There are some less visited sites that are well worth the time, such as the Museo dell’Opificio dell Pierre Dure, a museum filled with intricate mosaics. I marveled at the craftsmanship of the varied pieces in this small museum, some of which look like paintings. I also enjoyed the large expanse of the Gothic basilica, Santa Croce, which contains tombs or monuments for Michelangelo, Dante Alighieri, Machiavelli, and Rossini.
Reception at the Four Seasons Hotel in Florence. Photo courtesy of Four Seasons.
I stayed at the Four Seasons Florence, which looks like a museum itself with its very own Renaissance frescos. Situated about a 15-minute walk from the Duomo, the hotel’s service and amenities lived up to the Four Seasons name. (I was even offered an umbrella as I left the hotel on a rainy morning.)
The hotel occupies an estate with two Renaissance palaces that underwent a seven-year restoration before opening in 2008 with a garden, business center, fitness center, library, bar, pool, and spa.
It was my dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, Il Palagio, however, that made an indelible impression on me. The waiter knew the menu intimately and treated me as though I was his only guest. I started with potato leek soup with shavings of fresh Tuscan truffles, followed by a main course of veal with spring vegetables and potatoes. These ingredients may sound simple, but I have never tasted dishes with more delicately combined flavors. I can only imagine the care and time that was required to achieve such subtlety.
The violette “bubble” at Il Palagio in Florence. Photo courtesy of Four Seasons.
My favorite part of the meal was the dessert called a violette “bubble.” It looked like a lavender Christmas ornament with edible gold leaf on the top. Inside was cassis sorbet and vanilla crème. Afterward, I was given a plate of fresh orange pastries hot from the oven, which were so light that they almost seemed to contain no flour. The meal was a perfect way to spend my last evening in Florence before venturing on to Rome.
My hotel in Rome, the Massimo D’Azeglio, was a short walk from Rome’s Termini Centrale Station. Staying so near the main train station proved to be ideal, as Rome is not an easy city to navigate.
The Massimo is a 4-star Bettoja Hotel situated by two other Bettoja properties. While my room was relatively basic, it contained all of the necessary amenities, and the bathroom was marble and unusually spacious. The staff was enormously friendly, and even though I arrived hours before check-in time, they graciously offered me a complimentary breakfast while they quickly prepared my room.
The Massimo has undergone numerous renovations, but it maintains a 19th century atmosphere and once hosted Benito Mussolini.
Tours are the best way to see the main sites in Rome because they often allow you to save time by jumping the lines. I booked two tours in advance online with Viator.com, a website that is a one-stop treasure trove of reasonably priced tours offered by companies all over the world.
An archway in Rome’s Colosseum. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
My first tour was a half-day walk through Ancient Rome. Our guide was an archaeologist who filled us in on her most recent digs. We walked past the lines to immediately enter the interior of the Colosseum, followed by visits to the Roman Forum, Capitoline Hill, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, and Piazza Navona.
The next morning, I took the subway to the Vatican to meet another tour, which also bypassed the lines and took us into the museums before the crowds. By the time we made it to the Sistine Chapel, however, the place was packed with people.
Our guide was not only knowledgeable, but very entertaining. It was easy to tell that she loves her job, as she gave us tidbits of information that only someone who is passionate about art and history would notice or remember. She had discovered, for example, that the eyes in a particular tapestry seem to follow you no matter where you stand in the room.
The Vatican’s art collection is mind-boggling. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Of course, the Vatican’s art collection is as mind-boggling as you would expect. Besides the masters of the Renaissance, there is an impressive collection of modern art in an effort to gather the work of those who will be considered masters in the future. We also visited St. Peter’s Basilica, where I tried to imagine what it would be like to be there during a mass rather than surrounded by tour groups.
St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
My favorite tour, however, was a bit outside the norm. Context Travel offers a host of specialized walking tours and longer trips with scholar docents, most with Ph.Ds. I chose a wine tour, which gave me the opportunity to visit two out-of-the-way wine bars with a sommelier.
Context keeps their tour groups small, so our intimate group enjoyed cheeses and breads while sampling several different wines along with the locals. It was a different Rome from the noisy and tour bus-laden areas where I had spent the majority of my time.
When leaving Rome, I had an unfortunate experience with the Terravision bus service to the airport. The driver refused to allow me to carry my small bag containing my camera equipment and computer onto the bus. Instead, he wanted to shove it into the underside compartment, in which he had forced bags beyond its capacity.
The Terravision personnel were terribly rude and wouldn’t refund my money when I said I couldn’t allow my valuable equipment to be stored haphazardly. So I cut my losses and took a taxi to the airport, which was not so very expensive. At least I was able to protect my valuables.
However you choose to travel to and from the cities, Florence and Rome make for a great combo trip, even if you have no more than a week. You’ll get a dose of ancient history, view the art of the greatest masters of all time, and earn the gratitude of your taste buds for a long time to come.
Beware phone scams! It turns out that even on Google, you might do a search and get a bogus phone number for an airline or other business. So to avoid being scammed, go to official websites to get phone numbers!
Watch upgrade prices! Word is that upgrading your already-booked flight may cost you more than cancelling your original flight and rebooking the upgraded seat. Always check before you upgrade!
Airplane in airport. Photo by cegoh.
Airline and Airport News
Air Canada strike. Ten thousand Air Canada personnel walked off the job on August 16th, disrupting flights for several days. A tentative agreement has been reached.
Flames shoot from plane engine. On August 16th, a Condor Airlines flight from Corfu to Dusseldorf had to make an emergency landing in Italy when flames shot from its engine. Luckily, there were no injuries.
Condor and JetBlue. Speaking of Condor, you can now use your TrueBlue points on flights with the airline, which gives you more international options than JetBlue.
TSA bans new items. TSA in the U.S. just banned a few more items in checked bags because they’re a fire risk. In carry-ons, it’s easier for flight attendants to quickly take action. The items are: (1) curling irons or flat irons that contain lithium metal or lithium ion batteries; (2) curling irons or flat irons that are gas- or butane-fueled; and (3) gas refills or spare cartridges for curling irons or flat irons.
TSA PreCheck Touchless ID. This faster service using facial recognition technology is now available in 15 U.S. airports – Chicago O’Hare, Dallas-Fort Worth, Denver, Detroit, Harry Reid in Las Vegas, Atlanta, JFK and LGA in NYC, LAX, Newark Liberty, Portland Oregon, Reagan in DC, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle-Tacoma.
TSA eGates. Speaking of TSA, they’re rolling out eGates in Atlanta, Seattle, and Washington DC. If you’ve traveled internationally, you might have already experienced these in other countries. You just have to scan your boarding pass. if you have a Clear+ membership, it will be especially easy to use these, as you won’t have to be escorted by Clear personnel anymore.
Airport terminal. Photo by Shineanucha.
American Airlines removes some seatback screens. While retrofitting its A319 planes, American Airlines has decided to cut costs by removing seatback screens. So much for customer service!
Virgin Australia flight mishap. On August 28th, a Virgin Australia flight from Bali to Brisbane on a Boeing 737 apparently lost function in all of its toilets during the 6-hour flight. Passengers say flight attendants told them to urinate in bottles. OMG!
Nuclear-powered airport? Denver International Airport is starting a study to determine the wisdom of adding a small modular nuclear reactor. The claim is that this power source is safe and cost-effective.
Qatar Airways to move into JFK’s new terminal. In 2026, when NYC’s JFK airport opens its new Terminal One, Qatar Airways, which is often named the best airline in the world, will move in, along with its first lounge in the U.S. That lounge will be about 15,000 square feet, and passengers might even be able to walk straight to their gate from inside. But I can’t verify that yet, so we’ll see. If it’s true, it will be pretty cool!
Class-action lawsuits against airlines. Passengers have filed two class-action lawsuits against United and Delta for booking “window seats” with no windows. I agree this is terrible! Choosing a window seat isn’t just about sitting against the side of the plane. If you’ve been promised a window, you should get a window.
Delta flight attendant slaps passenger. A passenger on a Delta flight from Atlanta to Fresco, California on July 29th has filed a $20 million lawsuit against the carrier, alleging that a flight attendant refused to serve he and his family water, whispered a “vulgar word” in his ear, and then slapped him when he responded with expletives. The passenger believes it happened because his wife was wearing a Palestine t-shirt. Delta is investigating.
A view of Venice from the water. Photo by Karin Leperi Pezo.
General Travel News
Fines in Italy can cost you a pretty penny! In Venice, you might be charged as much as $234 for eating or drinking while sitting on the ground or steps or near monuments and bridges. You’ll pay $292 for wearing a swimsuit or going bare-chested on the street and more than $400 for swimming in canals or littering. You’ll also be fined (not sure how much) for biking, camping, or feeding seagulls. if you think that’s bad, try hiking certain areas in Cinque Terre wearing just flip flops and lose $3,000 to fines. Other parts of the country have also banned snacking on the street or wearing swimsuits anywhere but the beach.
Orient Express expands to sailing. The famous luxury train will lend its name to two sailing yachts launching soon. The Orient Express Corinthian will set sail n 2006, while the Orient Express Olympian will begin in 2027. The Corinthian will have 54 suites spanning from almost 500 to almost 2,500 square feet, and it will have 5 restaurants, 2 swimming pools, a cabaret, and a recording studio. The yachts will sail the Caribbean, Mediterranean, and the Adriatic. Sounds divine!
What are the world’s safest countries? According to Conde Nast Traveler, the top 10 (from 1 to 10) are: Iceland, Ireland, New Zealand, Austria, Switzerland, Singapore, Portugal, Denmark, Slovenia, and Finland.
New Spain luxury train route. The luxury Belle Epoque-inspired Al Andalus train in Spain will launch a new route in the spring of 2026 from Seville to Madrid, stopping on Cordoba, Cadiz, Merida, and Toledo. If you try this, please report back!
Business class on a bus? Yep! It looks like the Swiss company, Twiliner, is starting a night bus network this November with beds, stopping through Switzerland, Belgium, the Netherlands, Spain, and Luxembourg. Report back on this one, too!
Severe weather in Phoenix. On August 25th, Phoenix, Arizona was hit by a haboob, a wall of dust that removed almost all visibility in the city. Afterwards, there were severe thunderstorms with 70 mph wind gusts, one of which destroyed a bridge at the airport.
I’m well-traveled enough to know that a city like Tulsa, Oklahoma is cosmopolitan, but I admit I had no idea how much culture and history is available in this part of the country.
An art deco sign in Tulsa. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
If you’re like me, you’ll be surprised to learn that Tulsa has one of the largest collections of art deco architecture in the U.S. Even a sign I saw for a dry cleaner was art deco, but my favorite example was the Boston Avenue Methodist Church, a stunning building that caught my imagination during an impromptu stroll.
The art deco Boston Avenue Methodist Church in Tulsa. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I spent about 45 minutes circling it to take photographs from different angles and was eventually invited inside. Built in 1929, the building is considered the first example of strictly American church architecture. Unfortunately, there is some dispute as to who actually designed the building.
Then, there’s my favorite museum in Tulsa – the Gilcrease Museum, which houses the most extensive collection of American Indian artifacts I have ever seen. In fact, only about six percent of the collection is ever on view at a time. Oilman and part Creek Indian Thomas Gilcrease (1890-1962) collected the artifacts and created the museum, which is surrounded by acres of gardens.
Abraham Lincoln face and hand casts at the Gilcrease Museum in Tulsa. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Besides the Indian art and artifacts, some of which are catalogued on computers and numbered in drawers on the museum’s lower floor, the Gilcrease has numerous Revolutionary and Civil War era treasures such as a letter signed by Thomas Jefferson and original casts of Abraham Lincoln’s face and hand.
The Philbrook Museum of Art in Tulsa. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Another impressive museum in Tulsa is the Philbrook Museum of Art. While the art collection is stellar, the building itself is something to see. It’s an Italianate Renaissance villa right in the middle of Tulsa with 23 acres of gorgeous gardens. Completed in 1927 for oil magnate Waite Phillips, the 72-room estate was gifted by the family to the city in 1938.
The gardens of the Philbrook Museum of Art. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Not far outside of Tulsa are more sites that are not to be missed, including historic Route 66, the Will Rogers Memorial Museum in Claremore, and his beautiful birthplace on Lake Oologah. Built in 1875, Rogers’ childhood house is one of the few remaining examples of an Indian Territory frontier building from before the territory became part of Oklahoma.
The Will Rogers Museum. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Rogers was famous for his funny sayings, for his fancy cowboy rope tricks in vaudeville and early films, and for his Cherokee Indian heritage. He once said, “My ancestors didn’t come over on the Mayflower, but they met the boat.” The details of his life, which ended in a plane crash in 1935, are more interesting than you might think, and the museum includes an actor who plays Rogers, complete with rope tricks.
The Will Rogers Museum. Photo by Melanie Votaw.The Will Rogers birthplace. Photo by Melanie Votaw.The Will Rogers birthplace. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
About 50 miles from Tulsa is Tahlequah, the capitol of the Cherokee Nation. I was very excited to visit this territory. Where else are you likely to see signs in both English and the Cherokee language?
A stop sign within the Cherokee Nation in both English and Cherokee. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The Cherokee Nation is working hard to educate tourists about their history and culture. I visited the Cherokee National Supreme Court Museum, Oklahoma’s oldest public building, and the Cherokee National Prison Museum. The prison was the only penitentiary in the Indian Territory from 1875 to 1901.
The Trail of Tears exhibit. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The Cherokee National Museum in Tahlequah, which chronicles the Trail of Tears, is a moving experience. What the various Indian nations endured when they were forced to relocate from the southeast in 1830 is almost impossible to fathom. Thousands of them died of starvation, exposure, or disease as they walked for miles over rough terrain in treacherous weather.
A demonstration at the Cherokee Nation Ancient Village. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
On the grounds of the Cherokee Heritage Center is something called “Ancient Village.” It’s a complete reproduction of an early 1700s Cherokee township. Members of the Nation are on hand in traditional dress to show how to carve arrowheads, for example, or use a blow gun. If you’re traveling with kids, they will absolutely love this.
The Hard Rock Hotel & Casino in Tulsa. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I stayed in two very different hotels while in Tulsa. The first was the large Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, which was formerly the Cherokee Nation Casino & Resort. The entrance to the hotel features a row of giant, colorful guitar sculptures.
My room, which was decorated in black and white, was luxurious and funky with Indian art and a radio that was playing classic rock when I entered. The hotel contains a large gaming floor, several restaurants, a gym, a pool, and a theater that hosts big name rock bands.
My other hotel was the Ambassador, a lovely historical property near downtown that was built in 1929 as a temporary residence for oil barons while they waited for their mansions to be built. It was constructed by General Patrick Hurley who later became U.S. Ambassador to China.
My room at the Ambassador Hotel in Tulsa. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
My room at the Ambassador was very large with all the amenities you would expect of a luxury property. I especially appreciated the expanded vanity area in the bath. The staff was very kind to me during my stay, and they provided me with van transportation, which is available to guests to and from the airport, as well as to nearby destinations.
A completely non-smoking hotel, the Ambassador is also pet-friendly. There are fitness and business centers and a fine restaurant called Chalkboard on the premises.
I simply can’t say enough positive about Tulsa and the nearby Cherokee Nation. If you have the chance to visit this part of the country, do it, especially if you’re a lover of culture and history.
I love good soups, and I often make them in my kitchen. Through the years, I’ve added numerous soups to my repertory, and Tom Kha Gai, a Thai chicken soup, is one of them.
One of the recipes I use is from the kitchens of the Spice Market, the Thai restaurant of the hotel Regent Bangkok. Unfortunately, that hotel is no longer in existence.
I still have the “Standardized Menu Item Sheet” used in the kitchens of most 5-star hotels. It describes in detail what the per-person ingredients and cooking method should be for any particular dish the restaurant offers. Additionally, in many hotels, there is an image of the finished dish attached to the sheet.
I have made a small modification to the instructions. Instead of only coconut milk, I use coconut milk and chicken stock 50/50 or the combination of coconut milk and chicken broth by Freak Flag Organics. Except for that, I use the recipe as it was given to me.
Combination chicken broth and coconut milk. Photo courtesy of Freak Flag Organics.
Ingredients for 1 person:
1 cup chicken, white meat, shredded 3/4 cup coconut milk and chicken stock, 50/50 20 grams mushrooms (the recipe calls for sliced button mushrooms, but I use Chinese umbrella mushrooms) 20 grams lemongrass stalks, lightly pounded to bring out the juice and aroma 10 grams galangal, sliced 30 grams lemon juice 5 grams chopped Kaffir lime leaves 15 grams fish sauce 5 grams chili pepper, sliced 5 grams chili oil Cilantro leaves for garnish, chopped
Method:
Boil the coconut milk or 50/50 coconut and chicken stock.
Add the shredded chicken, mushrooms, lemongrass, and galangal. Bring back to a boil.
When the chicken is cooked, add the fish sauce, sliced chili pepper, and Kaffir lime leaves.
On my way to Churchill, Canada (see my article on that trip), I stopped over in Winnipeg. I didn’t have much time, but I wanted to visit Fort Whyte Alive, a 660-acre reclaimed urban green space in the city with hiking/mountain biking trails, paddle lakes, a visitor center with information about the local wildlife, a restaurant, a gift shop, and … a bison herd.
The bison herd at Fort Whyte Alive. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
That’s right – it has its own herd of about 40 bison year-round, which are captive animals but still considered wild since people don’t interfere with them (except to maintain the herd’s numbers). This means that the herd breeds, but they can’t keep too many animals based on the amount of space. Plus, they can’t keep too many dominant males around.
The bison herd at Fort Whyte Alive. You can see some of the thicker winter fur on one of them still shedding for the summer. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
So some of the bison are transferred to other herds periodically for breeding. The summer of my visit, 17 babies were born. So imagine if they allowed that many animals to remain year after year. The herd would grow beyond the area’s capacity to sustain it.
One of the young bison at Fort Whyte Alive. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
I signed up for a bison bus tour, which took a small group of us out near the herd in a white bus with big glass windows. We were told that bison have poor eyesight, so all they see when we approach is a big white blur. They have grown accustomed to the buses as well, so they aren’t bothered by them.
Still, the drivers always approach slowly to make sure they don’t spook the animals, and I felt we kept a respectable distance. We were also not allowed to step out of the bus. Occasionally, the door was opened, and we were allowed to stand on the steps to take photos without the windows in the way.
The newborn bison we saw at Fort Whyte Alive just before it stood up for the first time. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
We were tremendously lucky the day we were there because even though it was August – late in the season for a newborn – we saw a baby bison that had just been born and was standing up for the first time. The afterbirth was still sticking out of the mother. The video below captures some of these moments from the steps of our bus.
After my bison bus tour, I spent some time hiking the grounds of Fort Whyte, which is also, incidentally, a popular spot for weddings. It was quite beautiful and peaceful.
Seen on a hike in Fort Whyte Alive. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to see much else in Winnipeg, but I did get to take a tour bus around town to see some of the other sites. Part of that tour included the house where singer Neil Young grew up. But the highlight of the tour was the back alley “art gallery” of murals by famed Winnipeg muralist Kal Barteski, who paints the wildlife of Canada’s tundra. (I got to meet her while she was painting a mural in Churchill.)
A mural in Winnipeg by Kal Barteski. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A mural of beluga whales in Winnipeg by Kal Barteski. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A mural in Winnipeg by Kal Barteski. Photo by Melanie Votaw.A mural in Winnipeg by Kal Barteski. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
The Canadian Museum for Human Rights in Winnipeg. Photo by Melanie Votaw.Some of the historic architecture in downtown Winnipeg. Photo by Melanie Votaw.My room at the Fairmont Hotel in downtown Winnipeg. Photo by Melanie Votaw.
While in town, I stayed at the Fairmont Hotel. It’s located in the downtown area, which I discovered has a lot of interesting and historic architecture. The Fairmont was a good, although not spectacular, four-star stay.
If you have occasion to visit Winnipeg, give yourself at least 2 or 3 days to take in all it has to offer.
